Poodle wrangler

Do you trim his nails? If you dremel them with the wrong type of attachment e.g. too coarse sandpaper the nails can peel back off the rough edge http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html

Sounds like the pawing is demanding attention. I have a dominant dog who sometimes does it (different situation). It's him saying, "pat me, pay attention to me". I ignore him or say "uhh" (as in no) in a gruff voice, but haven't trained him further as it's infrequent and a non- issue for me. NILIF (Nothing in life's for free) and Triangle of Temptation (TOT) are great! http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101 TOT really helps with sit, stay- quick way for him to learn. A dog needs to eat and you do it each mealtime- only 5 minutes extra to do. I printed it out and read it through several times b4 actually doing it with the dog- took me a little while to understand it- can't recommend it enough. Must do it exactly per the post, though, or the result will not be so good- it's not just getting the dog to wait for "ok" b4 food. Pawing should decrease with NILIF and TOT, and training for when he does it otherwise. Never reward him for pawing. If he thinks of your attention as a reward, don't give it. No pats, no eye contact- put him outside or in the laundry.

(I'm not a groomer, but do 2 poodles at home).. Shorter than a #10 on a MaltXShih? I use a #15 to shave the apricot poodle's face, but you wouldn't want it that short on the body of a light-coloured dog. I did the MIL's MaltXShih with a #5 on the legs and that was too short: looked like a mutant chicken .

Sounds like he's being bossy? Never hurts to let your pup know who's the leader- YOU! NILIF and Triangle of Temptation (check out the training subforum). Growling's not the problem- it's the fact that he thinks it's OK mode of communication to say, "Nah, don't want to" that's the problem! Need to change the way he thinks ---> Training and leadership. Puppies are gorgeous, but need you to take over the mothering role- teaching good behaviour with training. No need for being harsh or mean. Training with puppies should be fun for pup. Pup will be so much happier because a trained dog is nice to be with, so you do more with them.

How does he get to paw you? I can't get a picture of how it happens If my 25kg dog is about to jump up, I can tell and have time to turn my back (mind you, standard poodles are light on their feet and not heavy if they do jump up). You should be in a position that he cannot paw you e.g. you only pat him in a drop position if that's what it takes. Any way to block that paw? e.g. raise your knee slightly so the paw doesn't make it to your thigh? (not saying to knee the dog). Make him sit if he's approaching you? My sister's dog leaves scratches and bruises when he jumps up, so I turn my back or lift my knee to block him if I'm too slow to turn my back. I don't knee him in the chest- it's blocking him to keep him off. He also needs his nails trimmed!

My oversized, adult mini poodle can get his under a 12cm high gate , so be really diligent when puppy-proofing any fences.

My dogs stand at the back door and wait. Oscar will go back to the loungeroom if I don't come soon, look at me, then go back to the door. THey have me well-trained . Am sure I've read about how to teach them to use a bell- like one of those long, hanging strand of bells, but cannot find it, sorry.

sounds suspiciously like something neurological

Puppies should be with their dam and littermates at 7 weeks of age. They also need to be fed 4 times a day at this age. Toy poodles are high energy, so he probably seems crazy and agitated after having nothing to do all day. He's up-to-date with worming? Poodles are also very much human-orientated, so this is why he will prefer your fingers etc. You need to start training this young pup. Bite= a stern, "no" and ignore pup until he is doing something good e.g. not biting or attempting to do so. This will be interesting...... It's impossible for you to toilet train this dog if it's in a laundry-bathroom area most of the time and you're at work or asleep a minimum of 15 hours a day, 5 days a week?

Can the Goldie people recommend a suitable brush, comb to use? Some are worse than useless and it's worth getting the right gear. Are you worried about keeping her cool in summer- can try ice blocks in water bowl, shade, kids clam pool (if she likes water), frozen bone. Also, get her nice and lean- Goldies normally love their food too much- it will keep her healthy and help prevent arthritis as she starts to get older ..

Worth taking her to the vet to check for any physical problems, in case that's contributing. If she has no injuries, I'd suggest increasing her exercise to at least an hour walk each day- it sounds like this must be on leash for her safety. Think how fit you will be for summer. Can you also go back to basics in training her to come etc.? Any problem with her hearing? Or, is she choosing to ignore you?

What Nekhbet said. The Advance packet will have a suggested amount to feed- that's usually a good start, then adjust according to how your dog's weight goes. It's best to have a large breed lean. Injuries and hip/ joint problems are much more common in overweight dogs.

So glad to hear you're getting some help to address any issues . It's one thing to read, another thing to do. We're all learning and have made mistakes. Even experienced dog owners can have problems and need assistance- it's much harder to see what YOU're doing wrong even when you can see it with others. Can't see the wood for the trees.

I'm sure I read about a lot of coughing dogs being taken to shows in WA and elsewhere, so plenty of KC around. Am glad it's a milder infection for the sake of the pups and dogs.

I don't think it's a case of too much, too soon. Consistency is what a dog needs. They also like routine. They need leadership or will take this role on themselves (dog as leader is an extra stress for the dog). You need to learn to see things from their point of view which is often different to what you might believe. Get that behaviourist as they can help with all this as well as any specific problems. Biting can lead to death (by council order if it's someone else), just as an illness could. If your dog was sick, you'd take them to the vet? Why not a behaviourist?

I think training with a private lesson is very worthwhile. Ask here for a recommendation in your area, or try the Training subforum. GSPs are beautiful dogs but can be strong-willed. Leadership is what dogs need- the best leaders are MORE respected and loved, not less and are never harsh/ cruel. Are you being a bit soft on him since he's been unwell/injured? It's only natural that you feel a bit sorry for him- but keep up good leadership. Ignoring bad behaviour is the way to go. Give him something good to do e.g. sit/ drop and give him a treat and your attention. He can't paw you from a drop position. Food is a good reward- most GSPs love their food.

Yep. Reduces the risk of digestive upset, too. My standard poodle was on a diet and started guzzling- I sprinkled his dry food out over the floor, so guzzling wasn't an option. You can do the same in the yard. You can also stuff food into a Kong or other chew toy. Bigger dogs can get bloat (intestines swell and twist over). Bloat is a vet emergency. Lots of factors involved (e.g. hereditary, temperament (anxious dogs), food type) but it's advised NOT to guzzle food as it may be a factor as well.

I'm doing an order for my dogs and my sister is using Sentinel Spectrum + Frontline Plus. Is this "doubling up" as far as fleas go? I thought Sentinel covered fleas as well? They need something for paralysis tick prevention. Any suggestions? Or, should she stick with what's working as it's summer? Thanks.

Imagine if you cut the bottom out of a bucket and put it on his head. Similar. Stops dog from licking/ biting out stitches. Many people also use a cut-out bucket. I think there's something the vet can also use to deter licking/ biting, but am not sure what it's called or how long it's effective for

Keep up the NILIF and TOT- are you extending the time, distance etc. per the program? Some dogs are a naturally more dominant temperament, but you wouldn't want this beahviour to deteriorate into something nastier. If he were to do something like you describe to a stranger, they only have to call it a bite and he can be declared a "dangerous dog". That means he must be muzzled in public, housed in a special dog run etc. You're better to get good advice early. What area? Perhaps someone can make a recommendation for a behaviourist for you?

As others have said: 1. Make sure he's wormed e.g. Drontal allwormer. You can get another brand from the supermarket. 2. Vet to check anal glands. If they need expressing, the vet can show you how to do it. 3. If it is anal glands, maybe add more fibre to bulk up stools as a preventative e.g. mashed pumpkin.

I've never met a Goldie that you had to worry about eating too little . My larger dog eats kibble as a food of last resort, too. Totally normal.

Poodles are intelligent dogs and will train you if not trained themselves. They really need good leadership and can be bossy little beasts without it. Peeing on beds is totally unacceptable, but punishing the dog won't work. Buy your Mum a good book on dog training and leadership or she'll have a horrid little poodle stereotype on her hands- yappy and bossy. Does the upstairs unit have separate access? If so, I'd get locks on the internal doors and lock them when your brother is out. Is there any reason for either poodle or his Mum to be downstairs while he's out? Don't see any reason why a toy poodle can't walk down stairs to toilet. My mini has always toileted outside, going down a flight of stairs. I'm not sure what makes it necessary for the dogs to access the bedrooms, but I'd rather make it so I could close the doors than have pee on my bed

My sister's dog had eaten them every week for years. Loves them.

Was about $180 for a 25kg male (uncomplicated) in my area. You can expect to pay more for anaesthetic, based on weight. My smaller dog (8kg as adult) had a small hernia repaired for free when desexed. Many places charge more if you have pre-op bloods taken and for IV fluids. Neither are normally necessary in an apparently healthy younger dog. Many also charge more for pain relief injection etc. If you know a nurse and have a helpful vet, some human medications can be used for pain relief, but they are prescription ones (not panadol etc.) and have to be given according to dog's weight. Ask your vet how much beforehand. Also ask if they have an Elizabethan collar for a large Newfie!