Poodle wrangler

Seizure? (I'm not a vet and am only guessing)...

I have to admit I was really surprised at the decision to put the dog down based only on OP's posts :D . I agree with Cavandra that the anal glands alone are poor reason to PTS. At that time you hadn't stated his age, though you did mention an injury that limited his ability to exercise. 9 years isn't that old- I'm thinking of my 6 1/2 year old dog that has as much energy as a pup. This is the problem with internet advice- we don't know what else the vet knows, and can only answer on the info given, so perhaps this was what was best ....? :cool: little one.

http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...;hl=anal+glands Sounds like the op is painful, but that doesn't mean it's not the best option- only your vet has seen your dog. I guess you could get a second vet opinion? You could also discuss pain relief with the vet for afterwards. Adding fibre and bulk to the diet e.g. psyllium husks, metamucil, pumpkin can help the glands empty themselves. Has this already been tried?

Sorry, dunno. I use Advantix on my dogs, too. Yesterday FIL asked about flea treatment for 4 dogs ( 2 little, 2 larger)- cheaper as possible (they're not cash-strapped) , so I'll be reading with interest. Are flea collars still available? Do they work?

Do you have paralysis tick in your area? If so, you need something like Advantix- covers fleas, paralysis tick (when put on fortnightly) and mozzies. Also, you need a heartworm and intestinal allwormer preventative. I use Interceptor Spectrum (monthly for heartworm and most intestinal worms) + Advantix (fortnightly in warmer months). I use pricelesspets.com.au- good prices and service. Intestinal worms are common in pups, so you could give an intestinal allwormer 2 weeks after Interceptor Spectrum. Drontal is a good brand. Assume fleas for now.

If it's his heart, often medication can help him live a better life. In humans when you get the right combo of medication, you can see on XRay the heart improve from enlarged (and working poorly) back to a more normal size and pumping more effectively !

I love to see dogs having a great time.

I guess her quality of life is important and it's probably fair to consider PTS if she is clearly in pain, despite medication . Tramal 300mg twice daily is a HUGE dose of painkillers, btw. I work with humans who are having joint replacements and cannot think of anyone on that high a dose! Is it 150mg slow release for 300mg total (still high for a dog!)? Usually a painkiller (like Tramal) works best with another drug with a different action e.g. an anti inflammatory. People go bonkers over the side effects with anti inflammatories and they do have some nasty ones (e.g. ulcers) but I think the dog's quality of life is important, too. They must be given with food. Is it possible for her to swim for exercise? It helps if the muscles around the joint are strong as possible. Also, having her lean (if not already) will help. Perhaps it's time to do a full review with the vet and make a decision based on that as well as your own opinion of how she's coping. About XRays- they're best used as only a guide. Some dogs with awful Xrays can still have good quality of life, just as some dogs with mild disease on XRAy can be in a lot of pain. XRays don't tell you everything. Best wishes for you and your dog

My puppy quickly settled after I put him with our other dog to sleep (outside). Have to be aware that pup will tend to bond strongly to the other dog and will protest if left alone later on.

when you forget that statement it will be easier. .......... Couldn't agree more. Pups need a new 'mother-figure' to teach them how to grow into good dogs. Ever seen a dam with puppies? She is firm but caring. This is how you need to be. Also think ahead, so you set up your pup to succeed and earn rewards and affection. A trained dog (as in just the basics- toileting, recall, sit, stay, walks on loose leash and listens to you) is so much nicer to live with. The dog is happier, too, because they sense you're happy with them not frustrated. Are there any local obedience classes you can go to? With toileting- be more vigilant indoors and let her out more often if she is still having the occasional accident.

I know nothing about your breeder, but if you are happy with her and this is the only issue, why not just get the C3 done yourself at 8-10 weeks? Many people advise a vet check when you get a new pup, anyway, so you can have it done then? Has she done all the health testing on 'parents'? Pups on limited register (with WA canine body)? Microchipped? Intestinal wormed? Heartwormed?

It's hard to know what's causing it at his age. 15 X 7= 105 in "dog years" . Only a vet who gives him a thorough exam will be able to give you some idea. Medications can help if it is something like mild heart failure due to age or arthritis causing pain. Depends on what you think also- if it easy to modify his life so he doesn't overexert himself and he seems comfortable most of the time, why not do that instead of medicate him? It certainly won't hurt to get that extra weight off him- is one of the best things you can do for arthritis as well as many other health problems- less stress on his ageing body.

Most important is to keep the wound clean and dry. I'm not sure it matters about the rest of him, so much Were there any complications? That would affect whether or not to strictly confine him, too. Big no-nos are things like jumping up which can rip stitches. A controlled, on-leash walk sounds reasonable. It's only 5 days. He'll be OK even if you do confine him.

Yep, vet. Most often, you can't work out what's wrong over the internet... can't see your dog Hope she's OK. My dogs have raw bones all the time with no ill effects. Cooked bones can splinter and cause a lot of problems, though.

I'm in a high tick area and use Advantix fortnightly through the warmer months- monthly it does fleas and mozzies, too. A tick collar is a cheaper option. Try pricelesspets.com.au. They say most ticks are found forward of the dog's collar. I check my dogs regularly, also. Good info here: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=121109 Eucalyptus is natural, but also very harsh- you can use it to get those sticky labels etc. off CDs. I wouldn't suggest using it on dogs, even diluted. If you're worried, go the pharmaceutical grade stuff IMO. eta: I'm pretty sure the spot-ons are best applied >48 hours after a bath (something to do with the oils in the skin and distribution of the drug?). Dogs can still get wet later on.

I reckon if you're consistent pup will do fine . I found all went well as soon as our pup knew what "wee wees" meant. He'd start to go, look up at me as if waiting for me to say it followed by, "good dog!!!" ;)

I'm thinking about getting a muzzle for my sister's dog as a backup for when we visit for Christmas. My sister is in denial about her dog's aggression and at the last minute says he can't be send elsewhere overnight . Kennels full. Would the wire type be best? Long story, but dog is both dog and human aggressive. He's 8 year old desexed RidgebackX staffyX ? (something lean), ex pound dog. He's bitten people as well as attacked my dog when our system for separating the dogs failed due to human error. He'll also be locked in the garage muzzled while kids awake (the plan- approx 3-4 hours if that's humane), muzzle off for sleep, muzzle back on to go outside for toilet stops. Is that realistic? I don't know if he's beyond redemption or not, but I can't risk him biting the kids if they fall over onto him, touch him in the wrong way etc. I feel OK with him. It's as though he's a Jekyl and Hyde- same dog will sit for me, give paw and be nice when invited for cuddles I've witnessed only one bite- unprovoked- went up to person with van in the street who had their hand extended (for dog to sniff) and he ran up, bit him (drew blood), then ran away. Also bit my Dad when he pulled him collar to get him down from barking loudly at the fenceline. Thanks

What if you put the tray in the laundry sometimes and encourage him to go there? Move the tray outside (when he's ready), praise him for going in tray. Then get him on the grass? Reward+ praise every success. Do you use a word for toileting now? If not, you can start to- name it and reward pup so he makes the association with the word. Makes it easier when you then want him to go on the grass. Use your word and praise and treat when he "performs"

So, just the parvo at 6 weeks? Where's Rappie and the other vets??? There's some thought that 8 weeks is better to start the C3/ C5 vaccinations as pups no longer have antibodies from their dam's milk. http://www.weim.net/emberweims/Vaccine.html note: above is USA, so ignore the rabies. From what I've read, C7 is overkill. C5 includes "kennel cough" but it doesn't cover all strains of it. My fully vaccinated dog has had it (eta: kennel cough) b4. Most kennels ask for C5. Perhaps ask what the breeder's recommendation is for vaccs? Don't forget to worm (intestinal) fortnightly e.g. Drontal, plus heartworm. pricelesspets.com.au have good prices & service.

1) Breeder will have a vaccination card- check what has been given and when the next shots are due. Do a search- lots of controversy about vaccination schedules. Also check what requirements are of the local obedience club- best to meet these. Ditto if you plan to kennel your dog at any stage. 2) Parvo can live in soil for years. Sorry, don't know how safe this area will be? I chose to walk my pup up the driveway and on the (very quiet) road nearby b4 all shots were given. 3) Large breed dogs need to take precautions as they're more prone to bone and joint problems: 1. Lower protein puppy food- many brands now have "large breed puppy" formulas. 2. Limit exercise- breeder told me only 15 minute walks up to about 12 months. Preferably on grass/ softer surfaces. No jumping e.g. frisbee, agility, on-off beds/ furniture, leaping in-out of 4WD while bones are growing (i.e. up to about 14 months or so). Some vets suggest mad zoomies in the backyard and wrestling with other dogs is actually worse on growing joints than quieter on-lead walking. Have fun and good luck with pup

Take the food back to the shop and demand a refund! Point to the what it says on the pack. I find shops are often more helpful. That's one of the reasons you pay extra for premium foods. I'm in a tick area and use Advantix because it deters mozzies as well as ticks and fleas.

What's on the bag is a guide only. You can safely cut back dry food by half ( YEP!) if your dog is putting on weight. For a dog with joint problems overnutrition is worse than undernutrition. There's much disagreement over correct nutrition for dogs, but keep it simple and worry about getting the weight off as a priority. Being overweight puts more stress on joints and causes increased pain . Shortens your dog's life span. If feeding raw foods, avoid fatty bones (eg bone marrow, brisket) and choose lean chicken carcasses, roo meat etc. Mashed cooked pumpkin is filling, but with few calories for a dog. Does the OH realise that he is causing the dog unnecessary pain by having him overweight? Killing him with 'kindness' ? Have you tried adding a joint supplement e.g. Joint Guard, Glucosamine & Chrondritin as well as either fish oil or flaxseed oil? Losing weight is no.1 to help him, though!

Nope. Not with a squirming baby puppy. Also, pup will quickly outgrow it. This is an 8 week old miniature poodle, so I'm not sure they come that small, either?

Probably no reason other than being a youngster, still. My dogs are well-exercised, get training, interaction etc. and the younger one also chewed up an outdoor trampoline bed at the same age. I bought a cheap, foam-filled waterproof cushion from a pet warehouse for $30. Cheap blankets from Vinnies etc. are also good. Polarfleece fabric is a favourite here- anything polarfleece the kids leave on the floor becomes a dog bed. He doesn't really need a cushion, so don't worry about it. GSPs are high energy. Is he getting enough stimulation and exercise?

Yikes, what a cross. Is it turbocharged? Sivaro desexes her toy and mini poodles before going to their new homes after her experience with Leo being made a puppy farm sire :D. I'd guess pup would be roughly toy poodle size? Many opinions about early desexing, but as long as it was done < 6months be OK? (sorry, no experience with entire female dogs). In NSW it will be much cheaper for them to register the dog with council, too, if desexed before 6 months. It saves about $100, so maybe they can help you out with the cost of desexing since you're saving them so much money ?