Poodle wrangler

Good luck with Sammy. Lucas, too. What's the approx. cost of this kind of surgery? I truly don't understand why vets are saying arthritis in elbows is "not a problem" . Surely hip surgery places extra strain on elbows during recovery? Arthritis is a degenerative joint disease i.e. gets worse over time, but isn't a problem? Talk to any human with arthritis and they will tell you it's a big, painful problem. You know those human drugs they took off the market? A lot of people say they'd rather take their chances and shorten their lives than live with the pain! (other options of course, but sometimes a particular drug is more effective for some people).

Tummy upsets can be normal due to the major change of a new home, but that's too much poo! Are you feeding the correct amount? Feed too much and it all comes out the other end. Try reducing the anount as well as what Miranda suggests. Labs always think they're starving, but feeding more is really bad for them. You want pups to grow nice and slowly and stay lean to avoid health and joint problems later on. I found raw foods (bones, mince, chicken necks etc.) helped with the too many poo issues I initially had with our large breed pup.

Vaccination for KC doesn't cover every strain of the virus i.e. is only partial protection. Much like the vacc for human flu. I've had a dog up to date with C5 get KC, too . You still need C5 if you ever need to kennel. Obedience clubs vary in their requirements (C3, C5, titres) KC is a virus, so antibiotics don't help. Sometimes dogs deteriorate so vet will give antibiotics in case there's a bacterial infection on top of the KC. Kind of like how a human flu/ cold could develop into a pneumonia.

I'm an ex-veggie and the trainer at obedience suggested devon etc. not anything dry. Gross! It's not so bad feeding raw. In summer I put on a glove or use a fork and just throw the food/ bones out onto the grass for them to eat. You don't have to cook it (worse for me). It's a sad day when what you've described is "cruelty" :rolleyes:. I notice some other forums are very OTT e.g. $10,000+ for an op for hip dysplasia + aftercare (rehab, physio etc) is all OK :D . Sorry, but I'm not sure I'd put my dog through such a major operation- once for each side- when there are significant risks as well huge cost. You can imagine what they thought of me saying I'd prefer medical treatments and expect a shorter lifespan (not wanting my dog to suffer) :D.

I find Advantix works well on my 2, but I also use it for paralysis ticks. Depends whether or not you're in a paralysis tick area- waste if you don't need that, too.

Poor dog. It's very sad that people allow their dogs to get into that state. To keep an elderly dog with joint problems overweight is criminal IMO and it's entirely the owner's fault. I sometimes hear people try to blame the dog ;):. It's only humane to request the owner sees the vet, gets a prescription, and gives the dog quick acting pain relief prior to his grooming. As others say, strive for comfort more than perfection and request he's done more often if this is less traumatic for the dog. Sounds as if the dog would benefit from regular pain relief as well. (eta: Sedatives make dogs sleepy and aren't effective for pain relief in case owner thinks this is what you mean.)

What about a better quality large breed puppy dry food? Many like Eagle Pack, Nutro etc. are about $80+/ 15 kg. It's the easiest option for many people. It doesn't hurt to add raw meaty bones as well. Depends what's affordable. Most canned foods are high in both sugar and water to make it more palatable. I hate the smell of the stuff and would rather feed a mix of dry food and raw foods. I'm struggling to imagine a Goldie that needs encouragement to eat ;)

I only wash my poodles about monthly, sometimes even longer. They're inside-outside dogs but their unique fur just doesn't get as pongy IMO. I have washed them in between applying Advantix (similar to Frontline) and have had no problem with ordinary human shampoos. There's a few threads about human vs. pet shampoos, "correct pH" for a dog etc. Some showies use human stuff and have done so for many years, but also depends on breed and type of coat. I wouldn't double up on antiflea shampoo and Frontline. A shampoo that kills fleas can't be very gentle. You have to apply the Frontline at least 48 hours after a bath- something to do with the oils in the skin and proper distribution of the drug. Some people recommend a "soap free" shampoo if you bath between Frontline applications. Do you have paralysis tick in your area? If so, you need to apply Frontline every 2 weeks, not monthly.

True, if a groomer teaches you, then you won't go back to them. Lots of people ask me to recommend a groomer, though, because they assume I'll know having poodles! Many groomers really don't need any more clients, so it will be a personal thing. Don't expect groomers to be too "lovey- dovey". They need to be firm (but fair) and puppies can be terrors. No-one thanks them if they're too gentle and pup bites a sharp blade. Good luck. I'm sure you'll find someone to help.

Spot-one like Advantix are best put on 48 hours after a bath- something to do with the oils in the skin and distribution of the drug. Too expensive to waste. If you're in a paralysis tick area, best to use them fortnightly. Monthly doesn't cover paralysis ticks.

I'm not sure there really is any natural preventative. Dexamethasone is a great drug for giving immediate relief, but shouldn't be given long term if at all avoidable. I'd give the antihistamines a try- ask you vet about dosages etc. but may be cheaper to buy the human type from the pharmacy. When buying, look for the "active ingredient" as some are much cheaper than others e.g. Claratyne and Lorastyne have the same active ingredient (Loratidine 10mg) but Lorastyne is much cheaper ($22 for 50 tabs vs. $36 for 50 tabs). I live in a regional area with expensive chemists so buy online e.g. http://www.pharmacydirect.com.au/PD_Produc...8827&PLID=2. If you use a cream in those areas, she's likely to lick it off. Good luck.

Sorry, can't help, but good idea to get a recommendation. My breeder helped me and it was one of the things I asked about when inquiring about puppies.

It was suggested to me for pigment on an apricot poodle, but can't help with dosage- just "sprinkle over food" I was told. Pup about 10kg at the time.

You can buy special, softer puppy KONGS. Brisket bones are goo as they can eat it all. Don't let pup chew any people during this phase- it's never OK, teething or not.

Can you muzzle her? The soft nylon type are cheap and it's not going to be on for long. I agree with the no-nonsense approach. If you let her get out of it with her carry-on, she'll do it all the time (because it works!). Puppies are notorious for trying it on. Neither of my dogs like a bath, but will be well-behaved.

Sorry, couldn't find it either. I use a regular Dremel from the hardware shop on both a standard poodle (~25kg) and mini poodle (7kg)- just change the speed. Ozito is another brand of "rotary tool". http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html

Glad to hear they seem OK. I think you did the right thing in taking them to the vet as sick puppies can deteriorate very quickly once dehydrated. $170 well spent and it's good news they seem OK. Digestive upsets aren't uncommon when pups go to their new homes, but if no better tmw, I'd go back to the vet, too. Best wishes

You'll seldom get the same info on this sort of thing or on vaccination schedules etc. My preference would be to keep pup away from public spaces until about 7-10 days after 2nd vaccs. Short training sessions, games etc. can help burn that energy. I'd rather live with a high energy pup than risk a dead one esp. as you know it's prevalent atm.

Thanks - from a pharmacy? Pet stores will stock it. If you use a dremel to grind down nails, it's not nearly so bad if you accidently go too far.

It's good for standard poodles in pet trim? All your dogs look beautifully groomed in photos. How do you use it to fluff dry? I'm open to any ideas as I've not had a dryer b4. The standard and mini are rarely longer than #3 body with scissored legs. I'm guessing anything is better than an airdry . A dryer would be great for winter when their coat's aren't so short (#5 in summer) and we get wet weather.

Most of our dogs over the years have been desexed males- no problems, highly recommend it. The standard poodle was desexed about 6 months ago- at 6 months of age and it's a simple op. He was sleepy and a bit sore for < 24 hours only! He's a bigger dog, too. Other advantage is that council registration is usually very much less for a desexed dog- ask vet for a certificate to take to council.

No offence intended, but they should probably look to other measures (security) as well. I understand wanting to feel secure as I've spent time on my own (or with only very young children) in large houses in dodgy areas minus a dog in the past. I know many women who are scared to sleep alone in their own homes (no break-in history), but it is something you get used to. Hell, I've only got poodles for protection sometimes :rolleyes:. Best wishes for your friends- it would be sad for them to get a dog for the wrong reasons, or get a dog that looks tough, but is otherwise unsuited to them.

I'm not doubting your good intentions, but I strongly disagree with the vet if that's what they said. Was this vet recommended to you? What does your breeder say about the walking? Weight? Yes, smaller breeds might mature faster, as in 6+ months, not 15 weeks! Can't you simply take dog for short walk, come back, give him chew toy and go for another longer walk yourself? I have a large breed dog and take him home after only a short walk, then go back out with the smaller, older dog. I don't see why you'd risk creating joint problems by ignoring advice common to most breeders. As for the food- What does common sense tell you? Sure the dog is growing, but it is a small dog, so growth is in small amounts also. Pups are best kept lean, not even a little overweight. One of highest risk factors for joint problems is overweight. I hope he's OK.

I'd go for the pharmaceutical option if it's severe and it' only this one night. Our vet often suggests cheaper human drugs, but I always ask first as you also have to adjust dosage and some human meds are toxic to dogs.

I looked into getting a schnauzer- a standard was what I thought of, but decided against as I didn't want a dog with a more dominant temperament (individual differences aside). A standard might not be a good choice for a novice dog owner or a real "softie"? No need for harshness- but strict consistency needed. A good breeder will be an ongoing resource person for you. Often they have "puppy packs" which will detail breed specific diet, grooming, toilet training basics etc. As for the 3.5 year old, you may have an uphill battle getting a dog with a more dominant temperament to listen to her. Not necessarily, but CAN be the case. Children are small with high pitched voices and jerkier movements than adults which don't send leadership signals to the dog. I have one dog that will only ever do as Miss 3 asks when food is in her hand and highly visible. Sorry, I don't have a book for kids, but there's an Australian one by David Weston- quite a few photos with kids involved in training http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...type=osi_widget. Regardless, it's important that you are respected by pup as the leader. It's about building a good relationship with the pup- no harshness involved! Training a pup should involve games and only very short sessions. All good things should come from you. You can start Triangle of Temptation right away- http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101. I can't advise specifically about standard schnauzers, but puppies of any breed should not be overexercised for the first 12 months---- i.e. running for >20 minutes with the husband is probably out! Is a definite no-no for large breeds- more prone to bone and joint problems- but maybe a schnauzer person can say as they are also working dogs :rolleyes: