Poodle wrangler

Have seen poodlefan's crosspost in the poodle subforum and answered in Rescue. Best wishes for her

"bit strange" . You're being very polite. I'm not a vet, but am thinking 8 years old, large breed refusing to walk ....... joint problems/ arthritis etc.? Other illness? I don't think it's good to drag dogs for walks. For a dog that's previously liked walks to not to want to walk, got to be a good reason IMO. Where is your friend? Can someone suggest a better vet in her area for a 2nd opinion?

I like the Dremel- grinds down the nail, instead so you have no sharp edges. I switched after hitting the quick on my dog's nails (black). All the info you need here: http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html Even if you make a mistake with it, there is only a tiny amount of blood. Dremel's American, made in Mexico and you pay more for the brand name. Ozito also make the same thing as a Dremel, called a "rotary tool". Try hardware stores like Bunnings etc.

Dunno about dogs, but back surgery in humans isn't hugely successful. I shake my head whenever I see very overweight people having back surgery and/or cortisone injections. Things you can do to help are: * Keep him very lean (slightly underweight) to ease the strain * Medications- anti-inflammatories together with other types of pain relief. Discuss this with the vet. I'd definitely try a dog chiro. Is not overly expensive. I'd try all other options before surgery. Even then, I'd be thinking long and hard about it. Has the vet given you an idea of total costs for surgery and aftercare? What rehab is needed? Are you prepared for the aftercare and risks of a poor result?

I feed it, too (together with some raw) but haven't noticed any changes . I'm in a regional area, so we often have older stock down here, though. Will keep an eye out. Was happy with the "old" stuff. Chicken and Rice Adult formula here.

Agree about preferring a kennel over a stranger. Another way to look at it- Are you prepared to pay for whatever your dog destroys at someone's house? Even "good" puppies can chew things. Could be more expensive to stay with someone, rather than a kennel. Plus, more likely for accidents to occur- like getting out etc. eta: YOu can't get more people-orientated than a poodle and my older dog was fine at kennels.

Be careful not to overexercise young pups. Large breeds really don't need any more than 15 minutes formal walk on lead + play at home. You have to take a little care with their growing bones. Overexercising is thought to worsen very mild hip dysplasia.

I have a miniature poodle from back in the days where they all were docked to 1/3 normal length. Our other dog is younger, so has a full tail. To be honest, it makes little difference. I've also had a docked boxer- she used to do a full bum wag in the absence of a tail . I prefer a full tail, but my dogs are pets. Others have very strong idea for and against. If it were for a medical reason, I wouldn't hesitate to have it docked if the vet thought that was the safest option for the dog. Body language looks much the same here:

I'd have a good look up their mouths, into nose etc. Possible grass seeds? Sounds a lot like when one of mine had KC vet diagnosed- wasn't so much a cough as trying to bring up something. KC can be treated at home with the usual care you'd give a person with the flu- rest, plenty to drink, maybe some Benadryl (feel better not curative). Any sign of a worsening cough and I'd be up to the vet. They can get an infection in addition to the KC (like a pneumonia) which might need antibiotics. No antibiotics for KC itself as it's a virus.

Use a word for toileting, so your pup knows what you want of him. Doesn't take long for them to make a connection, though it's a bit like going backwards in toilet training.

Whatever method you choose the key is consistency, consistency, consistency. Spray water, knee up (but NOT kneeing the dog), turning your back will all work with consistency. Your pup must NEVER be rewarded for jumping. For some dogs any attention- even annoyance is rewarding. Ignore instead. Pup only gets attention, pats, food etc. when calm and sitting. What about the kids? They can't just ignore it? No. Adults have to supervise closely and train your pup to stop jumping before letting him play with the kids. Also, have a go at grinding down any sharp nails. A groomer can do this for you- ask for not only nails cut, but also ground smooth. Hard to ignore a dog that's gouging your back .

I don't think they're illegal in NSW< though they are in some states. From memory, it says something about it must be vet or trainer prescribed as a last resort sort of measure. Bandanas are nice dog accessories if you think there are any issues there.

You're not being cruel, he's just not used to wearing a collar. mAke sure it's a good fit i.e. you can slide a couple of fingers in underneath, but is not too loose. I worry that dogs with loose collars will get out of it when walking or hang themselves. There's no excuse- don't leave too big collars on while they grow into it. Buy a smaller cheapie collar.

Kennel/ Canine cough (same thing) is much like a bad cold in humans. But like a bad cold, it can get worse and become pneumonia, so I'd be back to the vet if they're any worse. You or I might shrug off a bad cold, but pups are more vulnerable.

Sentinel Spectrum covers fleas, doesn't it? So, add the Advantix and you're doubling up on flea preventative. Advantix also covers paralysis ticks and mozzies. A cheaper alternative would be something like Interceptor Spectrum + Advantix next time you buy. THat's the combo I use. I'd start the Sentinel when the Advantage was due. Advantix- if you're in a tick area ASAP to get your dog protected (I think it needs to be put on at least 48 hours after a bath).

My dogs go crazy after a bath- rubbing themselves on things, zoomies around the yard etc. Perhaps it's a similar thing? If there's no obvious skin reaction, I'd not worry. I'd be happier to be flea and tick free. You need to wait 48 hours after a bath to apply it- for there to be more oil in the skin.

Get that weight off. Extra weight makes any injury worse and predisposes a dog to injury. Cut her food rations in half and see how you go. You can add things like mashed, cooked veges as filler (little calories). On a 25kg dog, leg Xrays cost about $260 all up. He had to be put under general anaesthetic which accounted for much of the cost. If you have no intention of doing surgery (depending what XRAYS show) the XRays will only confirm a diagnosis. In practice, you're not much further ahead in helping your dog. A canine chiro is a cheaper option in the short term. I'd leave the dog at home for that second walk.

just to add ..... This doesn't mean your dog is vicious or dominant. Apparently my avatar standard poodle became food aggressive during a short stay with his breeder. Being an experienced dog person, she got on top of it straight away- it's not behaviour to be tolerated in any dog. BTW, he's the most affectionate, relaxed dog who's much more on the submissive side.

I can't recommend Triangle of Temptation enough! http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=64101 It takes a while to work out exactly what to do- I printed it out and went thru it without dog to start- and it must be done exactly per program to get the right results. Start TOT and NILIF (Nothing in life is free). If you have ongoing problems ask back on DOL for a referral to a good trainer or behaviourist. It might seem expensive, but the alternative is to PTS if your dog seriously bites someone :D . If the dog had a life-threatening disease, you'd take them to the vet? Seeing a trainer/ behaviourist is the same! Best to get a recommendation, though. You're quite right to be concerned about your son- supervise, supervise, supervise. Put dog in a confined area when you can't supervise. Best wishes, danes are beautiful dogs.

If you want it to stop- you can put the dog in the floor soon as it starts (as previous post). Or, say, "uh, uh" in a deeper, displeased sort of voice. If they fail to stop, put dog on the floor immediately (so they connect being put on floor with the digging). Dog will get the idea if you're consistent. Dig, and it's no lounge! My dogs do this in their beds or if the kids leave a blanket or pillow on the floor.

Nails and paws bleed like mad- I'm sure it looked far worse than it really was. Best wishes for a quick recovery- I'm sure the greyhound people can advise. You might not really need the vet?

I don't think it's unreasonable of you to NOT want another dog crapping on your lawn! Neighbour probably had attitude because they knew they were in the wrong. Reminds me of Kath and Kim- how they chuck the Rotti's poo over the fence into the neighbour's yard

Silver is used in commercial wound dressings in hospitals for its antibacterial properties. Also in a cream commonly used for burns: Silver Sulfadiazine This is interesting- http://nano.foe.org.au/node/162

Pup is seriously ill? I thought in humans it's generally used for clotting factors- so you're less likely to bleed to death. I'm guessing this sort of treatment is hugely expensive as pup likely to need a lot of vet care?

Lots of threads on problem fleas. It's war and if you're half-arsed the fleas will win! I've not had any problems with Advantix- apply fortnightly to cover for paralysis ticks, so is extra dose for fleas (only monthly for fleas). If you're not in a tick area, choose another product. Is too expensive for fleas only. Others include Advantage. Do NOT use with cats, unless you want to kill them! see http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=92212