Poodle wrangler

Great advice on how to trim nails here: http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html Dremel is just a brand name (US, made in Mexico) and grinds down the nail, rather than cutting it. Ozito make the same thing-- is a "rotary tool". eta: Allergy from a scratch? Perhaps it's whatever your dog's nails have been in contact with e.g. grass, plants?

I thought Bichons had similar fur/wool to poodles. Were suggested to me as another breed that don't leave hair about. nicestmann77 here is an ex-groomer, sells and sharpens blades: http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showuser=8666 or http://clipperbladesharpening.webs.com/ Agree that #10 blade will make your dog look bald . Suggest a #4F or #5F for the body (#5 is the shorter one of the 2). You might use the #10 for base of tail + stomach area. If it's a clipper problem, no loss in buying the blades as they're compatible Oster-Wahl-Andis.

Have only used Alpha Keri on humans- you'll be left with an oily residue. Possibly a problem if he's an inside dog? One of my dogs was itchy for a couple of weeks after having fleas, despite all fleas gone.

Ceramic blades heat up more slowly, but will break (for sure) if dropped.

Eats over an hour? He isn't hungry. Take it away and give it back for the next meal. Offering a smorgasbord ---> fussy eater. Healthy dogs will not starve themselves I feed my dogs much the same day in, day out and keep them normal-lean weight. Never have a problem with eating. My mini poodle will tackle a chicken frame happily.

Vaccination is no guarantee against kennel cough, unfortunately. Is a bit like the flu vaccination for people- is considered much better than nothing, but doesn't cover every strain of flu virus. One of my dogs has had kennel cough after a stay in kennels despite full vaccination. Not pleasant, but he was fine.

I bought a dryer without heat and wish I'd got the heated variety to cut drying time. I was warned when buying to be very careful with heat- you can melt the hose if you don't use care.

I feed mostly commercial food for convenience, plus some raw. Yeah, poodles a bit different, but one is a standard and both active outdoorsy dogs. It doesn't make sense to me that dry food is more nutritious than raw meaty bones, no matter how "premium" quality. Perhaps do both some raw + some commercial food? You could gradually introduce something like Bonnie Working Dog? See how it agrees/ disagrees with your dog. Might need to experiment a little. Many premium brands offer a trial pack, though it wouldn't go far on a bigger dog.

Don't know if it's true for dogs, but for people having knee and hip replacements, the surgeon will often say... "The knee (or hip) was much worse than we thought from XRay". My dog had knees XRayed. Vet said had I not told him about the dislocating knee caps, you wouldn't know from either examination OR Xray!

Why minis are less popluar is a mystery to me, too. My first dogs as a kid was a mini. Had a mini for 8 years- he's oversized (pet only, so no problem) and very easy size to handle- curls up and fits easily on a lounge cushion.

Metacam (brand name)= Meloxicam= Mobic (brand name)= Movalis (brand name). Is prescription-only. So, you have to find a DR to prescribe it for a human, then give the weight-correct dose to your dog. Thanks to the PBS, drugs are cheaper for humans than dogs. To give you some idea of human prices: http://www.pharmacydirect.com.au/product_s...&sv=movalis

Sorry to hear about your dog being unwell. All drugs have side-effects and it's often hard to separate a side effect from the underlying illness. Tramal's widely used in hospitals (humans) for pain. Nausea/ vomiting is the most common side effect I've seen, especially when given as an injection. If you read up all possible side-effects of medication, you'd never take a tablet again ...

So sorry to hear about this. Weeping and inflammation? First thing I thought of was infection (I'm not a vet). Did he think antibiotics were appropriate? I know in people with joint replacements, infection can be a problem even months down the track.

Shampoo left in the coat could contribute- try extra rinses when bathing?

I got about 0.5cm thru my poodle's coat using human clippers- they just stopped + couldn't cope with the thickness of fur (not really that thick for a dog). Bad news, the good animal clippers are about $280, plus blades. Cheap ones (around $80) are not much better than the human ones If this is a one off, you'd be better off paying a groomer to clip the cat. Some vets have groomers who also work out of their office.

Why not try one, give it about 6 weeks and see how it agrees with your pup? Suggest transitioning gradually- mix new food with the old food, gradually increasing the new food. Helps minimise upset stomachs. Whatever works for your pup is good. I feed my dogs some raw bones and chicken/ turkey necks (all cheap). Not everyone can afford expensive dry foods and I question how fabulous something that stays "fresh" for months really is. One of my dogs can eat any food without any obvious problems, but the other will have sloppy poos on the wrong type of food. Both poodles, different sizes and it's the bigger dog that's more sensitive. Go figure.

Undoubtedly, they'd have poo stuck to the fur on their bottoms- like dags on sheep. Am sure this didn't make them smell any better The family can use the money u saved them on kennels to have them groomed . Vet expenses for skin/fungal/ parasites are even more expensive. I'd expect $75+ per dog, depending where they live. Some groomers don't even do big dogs due to lifting involved. Both are probably going to need a shave off- think sheared sheep. It's both too time-consuming and cruel to get that kind of matting off a dog any other way. They have to go very short to get under the matts. Owners will be horrified as it's not a good look, but at least they have a chance to start again. if they have any skin trouble under that fur, it'll also be visible ;) A good groomer can advise of what sort of brush and comb to get to make it easier to manage. Having neglected my standard poodle for a fortnight- it took about an hour to brush him out (no actual matts- but tangled). Family could use scissors on small matts- but they really need to brush and comb.

Makes me glad to have poodles. Only hair is dead hair on the brush or comb or what you clip off A groomer will be able to blast away a lot of hair with their force dryer and advise on the right type of brush and/or comb for your dog's coat. I'd expect to pay $60+ for wash and clip. Ask for an estimate over the phone, then ask how much b4 you leave your dog- they often can't tell you realistically until they see the dog. Good brushes and combs are $20+, but buy a cheap one and they're much harder to use and/or too harsh on your dog. Unless you brush right down to the skin, there can be lots of hidden knots which the groomer will find and have to deal with. It can be very time-consuming and they may even suggest clipping your dog quite short, so they don't have to suffer thru getting all those knots out. Best wishes.

There's really no need for a "special" type of food. No tidbits/ treats and reducing other food by about 1/3 would be fine. I cut rations to my overweight dog by half with no problems whatsoever. Have to say, it looked like I was feeding him hardly anything, but little dogs have little stomachs! A chi is much, much smaller than my dog (mini poodle). He was a much happier dog with the weight off .

I think a dog groomer would charge less. I use a grinder (Dremel) too. Quite idiot-proof and dog gets used to it :p

Sounds similar to what one of my dogs has had for many years. Vet checked out that the fluid was draining properly thru the tear duct (using dye) and thought it was likely a mild allergy. I just wipe the eye when necessary with warm water and a clean tissue. One tissue per wipe. If you wipe the eye, just remember to be very clean in what you do or you'll be setting her up for infection.

Go the Dremel/ Ozito. They're just different brands. I've got a cordless Dremel as it was on sale. The only "mess" you get is a fine dust- very minor. Can use it to sharpen tools with different attachments. Be sure to get the right sanding paper- too rough and it leaves a really messy finish and the stone-type are for sharpening tools. They get too hot quickly to use on the dog. Doberdawn site mentioned b4 gives you ALL the info: http://homepages.udayton.edu/~merensjp/dob...mel/dremel.html

It's a virus, so antibiotics won't help unless they get an infection in addition to the KC. I'd take them in if you were worried/ dogs breathing heavily/ they're getting worse, not better.

My vet reckons backyard/ loungroom zoomies cause more injuries than on-leash exercise e.g. walks. Also, that more dogs are born with structural problems (e.g. hip dysplasia) than are made that way by "overexercise". That said, use common sense- a problem avoided is best! Training and bones for chewing are good energy burners.

I'd just feed what the breeder suggests at this age. Can't imagine the tuna would hurt, but maybe see how s/he tolerates it. "Moderation in all things"