Poodle wrangler

Don't clip. The coat's not designed for it. The coat is insulation- helps keep them cool in summer, warm in winter. Use common sense- avoid walking them in the hottest part of the day and have a shaded spot for them to rest outside. I have poodles which need clipping, but they never have a long coat. They look similar both summer and winter and don't seem bothered at all even though they're active thru summer. A professional groom is worthwhile, though. Force dryers can get rid of excess undercoat. Regular brushing keeps good airlow thru their coat- matted fur isn't as cool as a brushed coat.

Poor dog. Drug-free things to do: * Don't allow zoomies. Dogs don't think about consequences- fun now, pain later. * Warm, well-cushioned bedding * Keep dog the leaner side of normal weight. Drugwise, he's still got anti-inflammatories available e.g. Metacam. A lot of people are very anti-drugs, but given the choice, I'd rather have a dog in less pain and risk side-effects. Even a premature death with long-term meds would be preferable than seeing my dog in pain every day. Most dogs are very stoic, too, so we don't know until the pain is pretty severe. Far as I know they don't usually give both aspirin and anti-inflammatories as they're both harsh on the stomach (that's why should be given with food). If you have the human medication and give the correct dose for weight of your dog it's much, much cheaper. My vet suggested this after saying I had some anti-inflammatory medication at home.

My first dog had a bit of a play initially, then largely ignored our new pup for a few months! They've been great mates ever since. Both males, desexed. Some vets use a spray to help hold stitches and deter chewing. When someone says, "my dog didn't need one" this might be why.. Just persist with collar- is not long and I'm sure ripped/ infected stitches feel worse than those collars.

A dog that doesn't like bones . Unless the teeth that are left are sore? I'd persist with bones. I'd skip a meal b4 offering to make sure your dog's really hungry, too. Some toys like rope toys are adverised as like flossing teeth and other chew toys become ragged with chewing giving a cleaning effect. Not sure as to how good this is, though? Sorry, don't know about the dog toothpaste. My understanding is that getting food away from the gumline with brushing is the most important part.

Some vets are much more interventionist than others. > 13 is a nice age. If he can have a good quality of life without surgery for another couple of years, why do it? Have good talk with your vet, so you can make an informed decision. S/he is the best one to talk to as they know your dog's condition.

Dunno about this..................... Think of all those spot-on flea/ tick treatments that are absorbed thru skin e.g. Advantix, Frontline.

Just to confuse further: There are now puppy formulas especially for large breed dogs. I thought breeders used to recommend adult formulas b4 these became available?

With an infection, you'd expect to see some brownish-reddish wax. You need to clean those ears, despite any puppy protests. Yeasts like to live in warm, moist places e.g. floppy ears! Because cavs have floppy ears, like poodles, there's less airflow. Their ear canals are also small, being small dogs. My mini poodle has had a few ear infections and if there's any signs of scratching at ears or brownish wax, then I start regular cleaning with Malaseb (an antifungal-antibacterial shampoo) diluted 1:50 with clean, warm water. You use it the same way as the Dermotic, but it's both more effective AND more economical. I didn't find the Dermotic that effective, though it was prescribed once together with an antibiotic. http://www.thevetshed.com.au/product_info....products_id/246

It's really impossible to say what might be wrong. I'm guessing your vet can't see anything obvious, otherwise wouldn't suggest exploratory surgery The only thing you could do is experiment with her diet- trail and error? Given her pancreatitis, I'd speak with the vet about any diet changes first.

What about a slicker brush? Doesn't cut fur, but great for getting dead fur out. Get an extra soft one and test the wire bristles on your arm if unsure- shouldn't hurt. I've seen some OK ones in Coles- but don't buy the supercheap variety-> ouch!

Have a good look at his neck. Dog bites can look minor at first, but if pulling was also involved e.g. pulling the other dog off, can do damage under the skin. An abscess (blood, fluid collection under the skin) can start forming a day or more later. My dog had an abscess develop post-bite- appeared swollen and felt 'boggy' to touch. I haven't had any problems with Frontline, Advantix, Revolution. Sentinel Spectrum is a tablet/ chew that covers heartworm, intestinal worms (roundworm, whipworm, hookworm and tapeworm) and fleas.

A crate is definitely the go. Can be used indoors, outdoors. Line with newspaper for any accidents, then hosed out, should you have to leave her for long periods. I got an XXL one online for $100 delivered which is less than a couple of vet visits. topbuy.com.au. Smaller is even cheaper. I had one previously, but didn't use it. Sold it quickly. Friend had a dog with an injury, but felt very sorry for it in the crate. Vet was blunt- Rather have dog "sad" for a couple of weeks, or in pain for far longer?

Adding more raw meaty bones will help resolve the sloppy poo problem. I had the same problem with our standard poodle. He's better on Bonnie. I still add some raw. What's your budget? You'll find people recommending some expensive brands. Other brands in the Supercoat pricerange include: Bonnie (Purina). Bit cheaper: Coprice, Uncle Albers/ Great Barko. Basically, transition to the new food gradually and see what works best for your dog.

Some people are just unrealistic. What is wrong with PTS a 14 year old dog with congestive heart failure? Not to mention the teeth problem. Just tell the vet what you want to do. You're in the best position to make the treatment vs. PTS decision. Can you take someone with you to the vet for support?

NSW Tilba Waterfront Cottages. http://www.tilba.com.au/tilbawaterfrontcottages.htm Dogs not allowed inside when we stayed there (couple of years ago) but a nice place. Clean, self-contained, near lake and good facilities- communal BBQ area with fireplace.

Best wishes. The vet's not seeing your dog for free, so why worry about seeming over-protective? If you're not going without to see the vet, then "being worried" is an OK reason for an appt. Have heard vets complain about the opposite- people unwilling to spend any money for their dog's benefit e.g. put them down instead of spending $150 on treating them

Best wishes for your Dally. I'd used a joint supplement (cheapest) + injections, as required. If anti-inflammatories help, then great. All drugs can have side effects, but it's best to discuss any worries with your vet and give them exactly as prescribed e.g. anti-inflammatories with food. You'll find some people have a bad experience, then tell you not to give X, Y or Z to your dog. Given the choice btwn side effects and my dog's pain relief, would go for the pain relief every time! Our dogs deserve to be reasonably comfortable in their old age.

My standard poodle (the big guys-24kg) does this sometimes, but there's nothing wrong. I take the food away and he's normally more hungry when offered it again much later. If your dog's a healthy weight (lean, but not skinny, is fine) I wouldn't worry. Just take food away and offer again much later in the day, or following morning. Healthy dogs don't starve themselves. Does s/he get treats in training? If any signs of being unwell e.g. tummy bit swoollen, diarhoea, vomiting, lethargy- off to the vet immediately. Or if you're worried, I guess. Fussy eaters are a PITA, so don't make one .

Our standard poodle Charlie has started to dislocate his left patella much more often and I was wanting to have him seen again for ? surgery. Any suggestions for who to see in Canberra area? We're planning to travel with him next year and don't want this to be a painful problem for him (if fixable). Am open to dog chiro., but wonder if we can keep it up when travelling? Not sure what's brought it on as it's both legs (as b4) but left worse than right. Only thing I can think of is: Slight weight loss+ less walking (due to my slackness) causing a change in muscle mass, but ??. He's now 3. He had XRays at 9 months at Nowra. Vet said XRAys normal and neither were easily dislocated manually back then. No hip Xrays, only legs. Also, any ideas on how much I need to budget if surgery needed? He's a 24kg dog. Thanks! (Have posted in the Poodle breed forum, too)

I see wheat bits scattered around the house ..... Could use one to pre-heat the bed for them- safest option. My dogs love a circular, cushy dog bed- both curl up nicely and are warm in that. Bigger one doesn't even fit, but still likes it.

My bigger dog does this. Almost looks at though he's having a fit and whimpering when asleep. BUT he's the most mellow/ good-natured dog, lives a great life with his humans and no past trauma. He's nearly 3.

I'd say to halve the amount of food until dog is at normal weight. Little snacks/ tidbits/ treats add ALOT of calories. I don't think it matters much if fed morning or night. Less food/ calories+ exercise= weight loss. Exercise will help a lot. On lead walking shouldn't be a problem at all. Even short walks are better than nothing. Good for us humans, too

My son's old school sent a note home warning parents NOT to Frontline or Advantix their kids Seriously! Maybe some people have tried it

My big boofa standard poodle has bilateral luxating patellas, too . Talk to your vet about the problem. My dog had XRays done at 9 months (he's now nearly 3) and vet advised to wait and see as the XRays looked OK. He was doing the classic of holding up his affected leg and "hopping", but it seemed to come and go over time. At one stage, I didn't see him dislocate for many months. Arthritis develops if you leave it too long, but vets vary as to when they recommend surgery. Some prefer to leave a lower grade (i.e. less severe, e.g. grade 1 or 2). No surgery can guarantee 100% success, but you do what you think is best all-round. Will watch this thread as my dog's just started to dislocate more often and may have to reassess for surgery. Best wishes. eta: Vet said Grade 1 at time of XRays. No pain killers seemed to be needed at that time.

What makes you think that the breed has to shed or is worse for allergies, just because it has a double coat?? There are several breeds with double coats which are non-shedding and low allergy as a result!! Poodle breeder pointed out to me there's no such thing as truly "non-shedding". Dead fur stays in the coat until brushed out/ combed/ clipped. Is what causes matting if you don't groom your dog. Husband is allergic to dog hair, so as long as the fur stays on the dog, not a problem. Even a little dog hair off the dog is a problem. Other people are allergic to saliva, dander etc. Which double coated breeds tend not to shed?