Jump to content

Kelpie-i

  • Posts

    1,538
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kelpie-i

  1. Hi Everyone We have set a couple more dates for the Herding workshops if anyone is interested in giving their herding dog a go with sheep. Dates: Saturday 15th September, or Sunday 30th September. If you are interested either send me a PM or follow the links below. Thanks
  2. What about Four Paws K9 Training! We're in Keilor Park which is approx half hour drive from Carlton straight down freeway, off the Calder.
  3. I think what you're doing is wonderful. I wish more people were like you. You are teaching your dog manners from the get go which is a lot easier to do when they're still young as opposed to having to struggle later with a head strong teenager or adult dog. All of my dogs were made to sit and wait before any entrances and exits as well as anything else they wanted from the moment they arrived home. I had no choice as with 4 dogs, I could not afford any barging or rude behaviour. As long as the methods you use are not harsh, then keep going!!
  4. It's not necessary to use her food bowl with the method I suggested. You can use some yummy treats which work just as well. Things like ham or bacon, beef etc. The whole idea with that technique is that is reinforces each tiny step she makes towards the drop.....it's merely shaping the behaviour as opposed to asking for it all at once. It's worked many times on those more "difficult" dogs. Another way is to free shape the drop. That is whenever she goes into a drop all on her own, even if it is just lying down in front of the TV or something, immediately say "Lie" as soon as he goes into that position, treat her and praise etc.. Doing this a few times over and she will start to get the message Good luck!
  5. Thanks for that L&L. Drops can be a little tricky but with patience you'll get it. My belief is that is best when the dog does it on his own accord rather than being made to, but that doesn't mean other techniques aren't as good...just my preference. And NO, it doesn't matter if you have the lead on or off.....she'll neeed to get used to both ways in life. Please keep us informed on how you progress.
  6. L&L, please don't hesitate to post and ask questions on DOL. There are so many excellent and talented trainers here who can help you with any hiccup you have with your dog training. Not all problems are as serious as some may put it. I still wish to know which method worked for you if you don't mind me asking!! PTDS, take a chill!
  7. L&L, good to hear that she is getting it. Just curious to know which method/s worked? I would also just stick to what is working for the moment as you may create confusion if you chop and change methods in the early stages. PTDS, Why not?
  8. Not silly at all JulesP. This makes the dogs think that they are required for work. Cesar Milan puts a dog pack on very active dogs and stuffs the pack with a can of beans or something and the dog is made to carry that around whilst on a walk. Gives the impression to the dog that he is working.
  9. L&L here is a tip to try: If you wish to continue from a sit (I, like Kavik, prefer to teach drop from stand) try this. At meal time, take the food bowl off the ground (fill with yummy food and hold in your hand). With your dog in a sit, begin feeding some food so that she is eagerly eating from your hands. After a few handfuls with the dog in the sit, gently start to lower your hand slowly and continue to feed for each increment she lowers. If she is keen on the food, she will start to lower herself just to get fed. Once she gets into the drop position, continue feeding and even dropping some food on the ground. Do this a few times and then once she starts going into position easily, start adding the verbal command. Kavik's tip about under the legs is also a good one.
  10. Right on the money there Tonymc Absolutely.................................................. ..no way! Lots to learn still!
  11. Ouch did that hurt! Sorry Lablover, did you mean bowl???
  12. Reddii, herding dogs can start on sheep as young as 6 weeks old (not so much working but more for the socialisation factor at that tender age ) At 10 months, your dog is more than ready to commence. Cosmolo, it's not so much the dog switching on, but rather some dogs are not used to working opposite their handlers. They have always been taught to work at heel or to the side of the handler and all of a sudden you ask it to work opposite - this can confuse some dogs. Most dogs do well, but I have seen those who have had a bit of trouble. The main things that are important when herding is a stop and a recall - although not necessary as your instructor can show you how to teach these when working in the round yard.
  13. Yes agree with FBC here. Too much obedience can actually be a hindrence to herding. This is the problem with herding instinct Tassie, whilst it stems from prey drive, it is a work instinct which can be difficult to switch off in "raw" herding breeds. Regular herding lessons will teach the dog the "off" switch but that doesn't mean these dogs will not 'help themselves' if the opportunity arises. This is why most working dogs on farms are not left to roam the property when not working. They are usually kept in crates or kennels.
  14. Reddii, you have a BC!! This is what they are bred to do. Unless your dog is working sheep all day, this is not behaviour you can switch on and off as you please. All herding breeds carry a strong instinct to herd, some more than others. In BC's (and other breeds as well) this instinctive behaviour can actually turn into a Compsulsive disorder if you don't provide it with an outlet. Apart from obedience, do you involve the dog in other sports ie. herding or flyball etc. Doing this will help the situation but as long as kids are running around acting like "sheep", your dog is only going to do what comes naturally. Your best bet is to separate the dog from the kids if you cannot be there to supervise or keep the dog on lead. Teach the children to play fetch with the dog (if old enough) so that instead of chasing them, he is chasing the ball or frisbee.
  15. There will always be debates about training tools and training methods, each with their own devoted supporters and fan clubs. Personally I feel that in order to make a true judgement about a particular tool or method one must put all emotions aside. Knowledge is power they say but experience enables you to rule the world. Am I making sense??? Sorry feeling a little under the weather at the moment but this thread (and the "other") has me intrigued. Edited coz I would have received a warning from Troy........
  16. What's wrong with the good ol' water bottle It has assisted in solving many "annoying" problems for people and continues to do so regardless of how "outdated" it may be. It doesn't hurt or harm the dog and once the behaviour stops, everyone is happy! I can't see anything wrong with that. Yes, I too would be interested in hearing thoughts on this too. PDTS, are you one of those in vogue Purely Positive trainers??
  17. Cosmolo, I suggest a pair of gummies if you have them.....just in case!! I promise not to take photos if you fall
  18. Is sure is...fully booked! Let's hope the weather is nice to us!
  19. Arya, here are my thoughts on the umbilical lead. I don't think they have any benefit and are no different to a normal hand-held lead....apart from the fact that your hands a free. If your dog is anxious or nervous in the ring, the best thing is to work on her confidence skills and teach her coping strategies by using some various training methods. The best way for a dog to deal with such situations is when the dog learns to deal with stressful situations by making his/her own judgement calls (all taught/moulded by you of course) rather than being "forced" into being next to you by use of a lead with no other instruction. I would also agree that the danger to your back is increased as GSD's have one hell of a pull on them.
  20. He only just got married in February this year. He's a lovely guy who, if you ask a question, will not give you half-baked answers. He SHOULD write a book!
  21. I would definitely crate train again (if I ever get another pup) and do not hesitate in highly recommending it. Sorry Hi Kodiak....hope you're well!
  22. Yarrowfell, the purpose of teaching this pug to retrieve was not for obedience competition reasons but rather for entertainment, so I just used a rope toy. The best advice I can give you is to use the item you wish to use for the end product but please ensure it is the right size and weight for your dog.
  23. Harminee, your Photoshop skills are tremendous! I am extremely basic with PS, the best I can do is resize the image. What the quickest way to cut out the background of an image? The way I do it seems to take forever and never comes out neat.
  24. Absolutely not PW!! MyPuppyBuster, ALL pups need to attend training and socialiation classes during the critical socialisation period which is the first 16 weeks of the pup's life. It doesn't matter where you take him, just take him. The best thing you can do is find a school or place where the trainer holds a certification or qualification of some sort in dog behaviour and training. Most places who have such trainers will take your pup as young as 9 weeks old and as long as he has commenced his vaccinations and the other pups are all in the same boat, then you'll be fine. I agree with this statement. Keep him away from off leash parks or areas where you don't know who/what the dogs are about.
×
×
  • Create New...