aranyoz

I actually have Protexin in my dogs' first aid kit but have never used it. I used Protexin with my last litter when they had a bad reaction to their first worming. not done until 4 weeks due a very poor gestation (when their dam wouldn't eat while in quaratine) and also when they reacted poorly to their first vaccination at 8 weeks. A vet nurse/breeder recommeds its use in all cases that may stress you puppies or even older dogs, like when travelling away from home. She recommended the soluable powder and I am now a convert. I had immediate results with it.

Firstly take a deep breath, relax and don't get annoyed with the puppy. You are dealing with a baby and yes sometimes accidents will happen. Puppies will not normally urinate where they sleep but if they are crated and cannot go to a different area and their baby bodies have the urge to go, then yes they may go where they are. Remember they are learning and stay relaxed about it. Just continue to reinforce the all the right toileting behaviours as you have been doing. Ensure that you clean any surface including bedding to remove any trace/scent of the previous accident as well.

The fact that the urine is almost blood colour probably goes to the dog not being quite as fit as is needed for the amount of work being undertaken. I am strectching my brain back into the 1980's for a case of young GSP that presented these symptoms and it was a dog that just couldn't seem to learn to pace itself in the field and quite simply rain itself into the ground. The vet explained that the colour was coming from the muscles which were starting to break down a little. I wish I could remember the correct terminiology for it all. Certainly those products already mentioned would be of benefit as would a regular exercise regime for fitness if they don't already have one. Edited to add this was more noticable in the hot weather and this dog had to be tethered or held on lead to be forced to take a rest break as it did not want to stop hunting.

OMG!! I am sooo in love with my clicker! :D The pups are responding already in one session and were starting to realise that the click meant a reward. and to stand still. But it was there mother who has amazed me she had had some clicker training as a puppy with her previous owner and had resisted my best attemps to get her to keep her feet still when stacking for show training. I have not yet shown her yet and thought it was still along way off. Well 2 sessions later she is standing still with all four feet on the ground and allowing me to adjust her rear legs without moving her front feet.

They arrived this morning and I am pleasantly surprised at how small & light they are. I will definately be doing some puppy training today. Just have to go and cook the sausages to use as the reward for the first few lessons...

Puggles, I have used both the Innotek automatic and the one with the hand held control. on avery dominant problem barker. I did not find them satisfactory as the dog knows when the collar is on and respects the collar. It did not actually teach the dog not to bark. ispite of our best efforts to use training at the same time. I too would suggest that de-vocalisation is a much kinder option. edited to say that they were legal in qld at the time and bought over the counter out of sheer desperation.

Thanks for the info I would like to start the pups off for show training initially and move on to some obedience after that. Edited to say that I have now ordered the 2 X i-clickers. MOH insists one is for him but I have my doubts that he could be bothered using it unless it has some thing to do with hunting!!!! I am becoming increasingly impatient for my clickers to arrive. I can't wait to get started with the pups now. I know that they have been shipped as I got an email from blackdog yesterday. I really hope that they turn up before the weekend. I have read a couple of articles by Karen Pryor and now am also buying her book.

If there are any more inside the house accidents take the accidents (poop) outside to the area you want him to use and leave it there. This may help him to think that this is where he should go. Make sure to clean carefully to remove any odor of previous accidents. Keep doing what you are doing. Do not give him free reign inside the house. If you cannot watch him put him in the crate with toys, pigs ears, kongs to occupy him or put him outside by himself. As soonas you take him out of the crate take him out side. You need to break the cycle of pooping inside.

Check out this link for Qld ortho specialist http://www.qldvetspecialists.com.au/surgery.htm

the desexing will have thrown her homone balance in to disaray. I don't have any experience with this happening but perhaps their are others who have. Hormone imbalance could potentially affect both her temperature when feeding and the milk supply to my way of thinking.

Thanks for the info I would like to start the pups off for show training initially and move on to some obedience after that. Edited to say that I have now ordered the 2 X i-clickers. MOH insists one is for him but I have my doubts that he could be bothered using it unless it has some thing to do with hunting!!!!

I ventured into the training thread for the first time in ages today. I have never trained with a clicker...and I know by now you're saying what planet have I been on. (But that is a whole other story). I have two 12 week old vizsla siblings (that I bred myself) and would like to try clicker training with them. I have been reading this thread and will order 2 i-clickers (in case I lose one). Which book is the best for a novice clicker trainer but not novice trainer. We had a vizsla with a CD back in the mid 90's that I trained & trialed also my OH and had the first two field trial champ vizslas (not non-slip).

QUEENSLAND Animal Options Dr Rowan Kilmartin (principle) 8/29 Blanck Street Ormeau Qld 4208 Phone (07) 5546 6756 Fax (07) 5546 6939 Email [email protected] http://www.animaloptions.com.au/index.html Titre testing & C3

Lambs fry lightly cooked usually works!!

Do you feed a dry style dog food as this definately make him drink nore water after his meal?

And sometime the vets who won't provide us with the product that we require will simply lose our business to a vet who is willing to listen and learn... Perhaps a pinned thread with vets who will provide titre testing, c3 (mine won't only c4) also 3 year vaccines would be a good idea.

Don't Know a good behaviourist but can recommmend professional trainer Craig A Murray (situated at Logan I think) google his dogschool for more info or try this link www.dogschool.com.au/ Edited to add I can guarantee that he is not just any trainer as I have used him when I had a a very dominant and human/dog aggressive pup!!

These percentages were posted on a raw feeder list that I belong to. Taking into account the moisture content of raw meat. It would appear to that it is far less than most commerical dry dog foods. Not sure about the fat content because that would depend on the animal and how it was trimmed. Beef : protein 16% Fat 28% Pork: protein 11.9% Fat 45% Rabbit :protein 20.8% Fat 10.2% Chicken : protein 20% Fat 11% Lamb : protein 15.7 % Fat 27.7%

Your vet is incorrect on ALL counts After she said that, I told her Elka was due for her vacc last September and she said if the dog is getting to the middle of its life, "they" say you can leave it longer before giving the next Vacc, so I could leave Elka a bit longer if I wanted :rolleyes: She would know then that the Vacc's last longer but is saying that they dont then?? Is there such a thing as a longer lasting 3 year Vacc from the US, or did she make this up? How dissapoining if she did. She was probably referring to the 'Fort Dodge' from the USA a three year that was I think one of the original "3 year vaccines" I haven't heard anyone mention it for a while so perhaps it was withdrawn. She simply may not know about Nobivac!! Or she may not yet be convinced.

check out this thread about vaccinating and and it's associated links for lots more information. http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=128880

More vaccine suppresses the immune system, it does not enhance it. If you had one die in your arms ;) because of over vaccination had suppressed the immune system, you would all understand a lot better. Have been there and totally understand, had an 11 year old in for minor surgery, vet decided his vacc were over due an jabbed him with out checking first. It was the beginning of the end for the poor old boy who was already immuno compromised.

Here is the link to the WSAVA proceedings where the speaker was Steven Holloway BVSC, MVS, DACVIM, PhD from the University of Melbourne, Vic. AUSTRALIA. http://www.vin.com/proceedings/Proceedings.plx?CID=WSAVA2007&PID=pr18190&O=Generic

The Vaccination Guideline Group of the World Small Animal Veterinary Association announced its international guidelines for canine and feline vaccinations at the WSAVA congress which was held in Sydney in August. The VGG categorised vaccinations into core vaccines, non-core vaccines and not recommended vaccines. DOGS Core vaccines: Parvovirus, Distemper and Adenovirus. Non-core vaccines: Parainfluenza, Bordetella and Leptospirosis The group does not recommend vaccination for giardia or coronavirus Vaccinate puppies at 8, 12 and 16 weeks with a booster 12months after the last vaccination. After that dogs should be vaccinated with core vaccines not more often than every 3 years.

:D I know fleas are no laughing matter but having followed this thread I thought I would give the lemon idea a try. I now have three lemon flavoured 9 week old pups...

Here is an interesting link http://rawfed.com/myths/ it discusses the many myths that surround raw feeding. should be useful information for anyone considering a prey style diet.