aranyoz

How lucky for Monah that you came along at the right time.!! I did not realise that the situation with her was quite that bad. Was she weaned and separated from her mother at 4 weeks without any further contact?

Thanks Tess I have acted on your suggestion and sent Jean Dodds an email outlining the history of the litter and their immune reactions. Hopefully she will be able to give some further insight into my dilemma.

This is the link to the information that Animal Options supplies about vaccination and titre testing levels etc http://www.animaloptions.com.au/articles-a...-vaccinate.html

Animal options do their titre test on site for a very reasonable $65.00 She has been to 3 shows and about 4 or five show training classes. I do not frequent dog parks.

Thanks for that link I would love to know more about this product.

OK just talked to the clinic on the phone and they are posting the results to me but this what the result is.. Hepatitis - 6 (which equals high immunity) Distemper - 4 (which equals sufficient immunity) Parvovirus - 3 ( which equals low immunity)

They did not give me the actual figures of the result. I will call them now an find out!!

I had my 19 week vizsla pup titer tested as I was at Animal Options late yesterday afternoon to see Rowan about an injury to her leg that is on the mend and also inflamation on the tip of her undocked tail (but that is a whole other thread). I had delayed giving their third puppy injection as they had reacted to their 1st Vacc a C4 at 8 weeks (my local vet does not carry C3) as well as the c3 at 12 weeks. On both occassions they had very red saggy eye rims and also upset tummies with very loose motions and were a bit out of sorts. I just got a call from the clinic with the results of her titer test and while she has good immunity levels to distemper and hepatitis her parvo level is not very high and they recommend another C3 vaccination. My head tells me that she needs it but I am also very concerned about the reaction to both of the previous vaccinations. I have her litter brother as well so I will now have to get him tested as well. Is it possible to vaccinate just parvo by it self and not in combination vaccination? Any ideas welcome... These pups had a less than ideal gestation as their dam did not eat very well in quaratine and was underweight when the pups were born and did not eat very well fot the first two weeks of their life after arriving from the USA and they also have reacted poorly to intestinal worming, flea treatments and monthly heartworm preventative so currently they are on daily heart worm tabs but these are nealy impossible to obtain now days.

EDITED moved post to own thread as it was too involved for this one!! See http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=133690

If puppy is still quite young, you've probably fallen for the "he has now learnt to use the catflap" trick Go back to taking him outside, wait until he toilets (teach a command at the same time), lots of praise and then bring him inside. It's probably much more comfortable for him to wee inside - no bad weather or scary noises I agree with with what spotted devil has said. Would add if there is no way to block the cat flap to stop him running back inside before he has completed his toileting task and been rewarded for it try taking him out side to the toilet on lead still using your command etc. This can also come in handy later in life if you need him to go while he is on lead and can also be a useful aid in getting a puppy used to the lead.

Best to take him outside as soon as he wakes up from sleeping, after every meal amd also about every hour if he is running around inside. Make sure you carefully clean up any accidents so there is not lingering scent to draw him back to the same spot.

Bumping up for deerhoundlover!!

Very likely deerhound lover, he doesn't automatically know what is required in a new situation. How old is your new baby?

Fingers still crossed for you and your girl. Glad you up dated as I was a bit worried you might have had some bad news..

She could also have bladder stones. It could be, an ultrasound will pick that up wont it? She has just been vomiting and had a bit of diarrhea, I called the vets and they said to keep an eye on her tonight and just give her a very bland dinner, but if it gets worse we can take her in as they are 24 hour for emergencies. Otherwise I will bring her into work with me tomorrow (my vet is on the same site as work - very convenient) and board her until an available appointment. She seems happy enough at the moment, she's currently running around the yard with a squeaky toy, and showing no signs at all of being distressed. Damn, I don't think I've ever been this worried! Finger crosseds she will be fine, she looks like at absolute sweetheart.

Matilda has this problem too. She was also speyed at 8 weeks, as she was a pound rescue. She developed an incontinence problem when she was about 10 months old. My vet couldn't find anything physically wrong with her, but suggested it might be psychological, so she put her on a course of Pulsitilla drops. I also gave her Bladder biochemics (Schuessler Tissue Salts), and her problem improved dramatically. She still has the odd bout of bed wetting, for which we now give her 'anxiety' drops for a few days, until her problem is under control again. Since we can never be sure when her incontinence will recur, we now have her sleep in specially made diapers every night. Makes life much easier to deal with, for when those little accidents do happen. The Bladder biochemics are no longer in tablet form, but here is some info on the same product in a spray. Martin and Pleasance - Bladder 25ml Spray This homoeopathic medicine has been prepared by traditional methods for the temporary relief of symptoms associated with: * Incontinence * Urinary tract infection * Prostate disorders * Bed wetting Martin & Pleasance oral sprays are a lactose free homoeopathic formulation, prepared by traditional methods and created with the inclusion of Schuessler Tissue Salts. Homoeopathic formulations stimulate the body's own ability to assist in restoring natural equilibrium and health. This is the link for purchasing made to order diapers, if you're interested. http://www.lovemyfurbabies.com.au/Diapers.htm Really interesting info on the homeopathics. Kudos to your vet for thinking outside the box. I will be storing this info as I have an older girl I am considering having spayed sometime this year but was not keen on puting her on mediaction for the rest of her life...

Is she entire or desexed because if it is the latter it may be spay incontinence which is controlable with medication?

Hello, I do believe that desexing is best for both of us but i want to make sure i do it at a time which will minimise any affect on her long-term health and growth. I don't know if these things are matually exclusive though... Why do you think it is best to spay when she is physically mature? Thank you for the article. It does say, though, that "spaying bitches after 6 months but before their first heat cycle is most beneficial." My concern is with the CCL rupture and interfering with the correct intended height of the animal as I have a very active gundog breed and would hate to feel responsible for her having an injury that might have been prevented. If you have any plans to undertake any dog sports at all this is something you should consider carefully. In your case if you want to go with the advice from your article the first thing I would do is to check with her breeder when is the most likely age for her first season and then perhaps look at having it done about 4 weeks before then. Most medium to large breeds (not giant)will have reached their full height by around 10 - 11 months though they will still not have a mature body this comes later.

If you sincerely belive that desexing is best for yourself and your dog, then the best bet is to have it done when she is physically mature. This link is for an article 'Determining the Best Age to Spay or Neuter', by a PHD vet for the AKC Canine Health Foundation and is well worth a read. http://www.akcchf.org/pdfs/whitepapers/3-23-08DiscoveriesArticle.pdf

I only use the milk mixture for a few days decreasing to no milk in about 5 days and only use Evaporated Milk broken down 50% with water, after that I may add a little natural yoghurt. It depends what works for you.

Hi Happie, try this link as this is one of the myths about raw feeding, if you use quality food and handle and store/freeze it properly there should never be a problem. http://rawfed.com/myths/bacteria.html

Protexin probiotic

Norska, I had problems giving chicken wings to my 6 - 7 weeks old vizsla pups they wanted to swallow them whole so I went straight to chicken frames. You may not have that problem as your pup wont be trying to eat it before a litter mate can run off with it. Also around 4 - 5 weeks or what ever age you are starting weaning and puppy has started to drink from a bowl gradually add some of the mince to the milk in a slushy sort of mixture. I used the chicken mince from the chicken abattoir with the frames minced in. Also as was said previously the meaty bones for chewing.

So glad to hear that you had such a positive outcome and that Craig was able to sort Teddy's problem behaviours for you so quickly.

Don't forget about but it but don't stress about it either. You should definately keep an eye on a hernia of that size. Check it every day to ensure that it is still the same colour and that no strangulation of blood vessels or internal organs has occurred which is the worst case scenario. If you think that it has drastically changed shape or colour check with your vet immediately.