Wundahoo

Capstar, compatible with almost all other flea control products and is easy to obtain and administer.

A determined rat can chew its way into or out of almost anything except brick, concrete or steel. Having been involved in fauna surveys I've seen rats chew their way out of solid metal sherman or elliot style folding traps. Unfortunately it's unusual for there to be just one rat. They usually live in groups so when one or two are seen it's often just the tip of the iceberg. When doing native fauna surveys the sighting or capture of a couple of rats is taken to mean that there will be a much larger but unseen population. A friend of mine who lived in the country had an enormous rat problem one year and resorted to baiting to eliminate them. He made sure that his dogs wore wire cage muzzles when out and about so they they didnt pick up any dead ones. The rats had chewed the wiring in the roof of the house which resulted in an electrical fire, one of the the trucks had it's wiring chewed and needed $$$$$$ spent to repair. The seat in the harvester had been chewed to pieces to name a few of the things that were damaged by them. There was evidence of damage from rats everywhere, not to mention the smell of rats in the barn. Unfortunately baiting is often the the only way to control them as they do become pretty trap smart and once, as a group they sense there has been a "victim" in a trap they wont go near it. They are clever. Baiting is not pleasant but living with a rat plague is hell. If any bait is used, you need to find out what it is and the relevant signs of toxicity in dogs.....just in case.

To find a pulse there are several easy ways. Probably the easiest is using a stethoscope placed over the left side of the dog's chest just behind the point of the elbow when the foreleg is slightly flexed so that almost a right angle is formed by the shoulder blade and the upper arm. This will give the true pulse rate. Sometimes the pulse can also be felt at this point too. The other way is to feel for the femoral pulse on the inside of the hind leg almost at the junction of leg and body. With some cardiac problems there is a condition called pulse deficit. If the heart rate and the femoral pulse rate are checked at the same time it might be noticed that there is a difference between the two. This means that not every beat of the heart is effective in pushing blood and so that ineffective pulse is not felt at the extremities. If a dog has an obvious pulse defificit it shouldnt be exercised and veterinary attention needs to be sought. Some dogs will have a pulse deficit only on exercise and will have normal pulse rate at rest. This also needs to be checked out. It's also possible to get quite a good pulse just below the stopper pad on the foreleg or just above the heel pad on the hind leg. Small stethoscopes that are suitable for checking heart rate are easy and cheap to obtain and can be bought via the net for under $20. Edit to add..... if feeling for a pulse, never use your thumb as it's possible for you to be able to count your own pulse rather than the patient's !! Never press hard because this can reduce blood flow so the pulse cant be felt. Just a gentle touch is needed. It might take a bit of pracrice but once the technique is mastered it's easy to know the points and the pressure needed.

Unfortunately Dr Stanley is either hopelessly out of date or is simply trying to boost the coffers of her practice. Of course there is always the possibility that she has been misquoted by the reporter that wrote the article...... one would hope so, but then it makes a completely useless piece of writing. Perhaps she needs to read and understand both the AVA Position Statement on Vaccinations of dogs and cats and the benchmark paper published by the World Small Animal Veterinary Association. If she is already aware of these documents and has not been misquoted it seems a bit like "selling the soul" doesnt it.

Perhaps use her cardiovascular fitness and recovery time as a measure. Take her pulse rate before you start (and when she isnt anticipating the exercise) to get a base line. Check her pulse rate when you stop to rest during the run and then at the end check it periodically to see how long it takes to return to her baseline normal. Although she might maintain her fitness level her pulse rate could be affected by the amount of discomfort she might feel while exercising. It may be that she is coping quite well at the moment but it may also be a useful tool to assess how she copes at a later date. It's important to try to establish a baseline for her because comparison with the other dogs may not be useful simply because of the age difference... the exuberance of youth and the tempered approach of the middle aged dog. The important thing is to try to get some parameters by which you can measure how she is coping. Apart from this I guess that common sense and general observation of how you feel she is reacting will be useful.

That didn't factor in the trips to Sydney once every six weeks to have jacket and poms scissored by "God". It really has to be a labour of love. No need to wonder why I now show Whippets. :cool: My Mother chose Whippets when she had decided that she was well and truly over the hours of preparation needed to get one of her original breed (not poodles) ring-ready combined with the worry and stress of keeping coat but still allowing the dogs to be dogs. I called her Whippets the "tea-bag" dogs because all that we needed to do was dunk them in water, jiggle them around a bit and squeeze them out until they were dry enough. I still couldnt resist taking the scissors to their ever so slightly fuzzy bits to neaten them up and get that crisp outline. Mind you it was nothing like the hours and hours that it took to hand prepare her first-loved breed.

Regardless of the time of year, it can get quite cold at night on the Nullarbor so make sure that you have some warmies at hand. I have done the crossing quite a few times with dogs and if you take your time it can be a great experience. My first few crossings were done before the "new road" was made...... corrugated limestone track for miles and miles and miles...... and miles...... and miles. I nearly lost one cocker down a wombat burrow, but he came out very fast and I didnt stay around to find out what he found at the end of it !! Dusk and dawn were beautiful times as the serenity was magnificent

Amitraz is not a particularly "nice" chemical. It can be extremely toxic if ingested and if these collars are used in multiple dog situations care needs to be taken that the collars are not chewed by other dogs. The end of the collar must be shortened so that the wearer cant reach it to chew. The skin area in contact with the collar must be checked regularly for signs of reaction to the chemical. Amitraz must not be used on dogs that are ill, have liver problems or are in whelp or feeding puppies etc etc. Personally I think that there are safer ways of dealing with ticks, and daily tick checks should always be done regardless of what other control or preventative measures are used when in paralysis tick areas.

If the problem is fungal then some Apple Cider Vinegar in his food will help with long term prevention. Continue to use the drops that the vet has given but also add a few ml of the ACV to his food each day. It will take a few weeks to begin to work but if done continuously it helps to keep the bugs away. Apparently it works by changing the pH of the skin to a level that the fungus doesnt like. Because it works internally it doesnt happen fast but it is a good and cheap way of keeping the problem at bay. The ACV that I use is Braggs and it should have "with the mother" on the label. Always shake the bottle before use.

Not sure if there is any Cane Corso as colours like that are not usual. (Friends breed them in the USA so based on observing their dogs) A quick check of DOL Cane Corso litters shows several breeders with "blue" Cane puppies avalable at the moment. I have recently seen a 12 month old slate grey coloured Cane. I presume that he would be called a blue. He was a lovely dog with beautiful temperament. From photos that I have seen this puppy looks more Cane than anything else.

Cane Corso come in a slate grey colour. Perhaps he is a poor example but he seems to have some features of a Corso puppy.

He needs to be checked by a vet ASAP and if it was my dog I would ask for an xray of neck, chest and abdomen. If there is a bone stuck in his oesophagus then it might be able to be retrieved using an endoscope. If it's in his stomach or intestines and is large or sharp edged then he may need surgery to get it out. If left too long there can be some really major damage done in a relatively short space of time. It's best to get it checked out sooner rather than later, before there is major damage done to his insides. Bones can cause necrosis, rupture or tearing of the oesophagus as well as blockage of stomach or intestines and can lead to some very serious consequences. If you get him checked and there is nothing there, then that's fine but it's best to know what you are looking now at rather than spend a couple of days wondering, only to find that there is a major problem..... solve it quickly. Manuka honey might help soothe or heal a scratched oesophagus but it wont get a stuck bone out.

Simply based on the information given I dont think that an opinion can be offered at all. We really dont know much about this when we look at the very few known facts. The relevant points are; Puppy was vet checked as "healthy to travel" prior to being sent on a long trip. 14 months later, dog has developed an un-named condition. We are told that there can be heritable causes. We are told that there can be other causes including trauma. We dont know the breed. We dont know what "healthy to travel" really means. We dont know the age at which the puppy travelled. We dont know how it travelled. We dont know what the "condition" is. We dont know if the "condition" was diagnosed accurately. We dont know if there was a confirming second opinion. We dont know what the intended use was for the dog. We dont know if the "condition" renders the dog not fit for purpose. we dont know how the dog was cared for/fed/exercised/housed or if these factors are relevant to the "condition". I'm afraid that there just isnt enough information to be able to offer an opinion one way or another..... it's really not much of a question when the facts are looked at. There are too few facts and way too many unknowns, with very little real information offered.

It's not really possible to give an accurate answer or opinion without knowing the full story. You cant blame us for wondering what else might be at play here as it is a very vague hypothetical for us to be dealing with. Only knowing a small part of the issue means that we cant really give you an answer...... but we can guess and that's part of the fun :D !! The breed and the condition are both relevant and important to be able to form a true opinion and I dont really understand why you have left that part out. It isnt as though it's likely to identify the breeder or the owner or the dog in question, but it would allow us a better understanding of the situation and it could possibly throw a completely different light on things. There are many conditions that a breeder can never be expected to be held responsible for but there are some developmental problems that even after a certain time has elapsed there could be some expectation of breeder responsibility. Some conditions are present at birth but do take time to become apparent. I must say that it is an odd post, especially if you dont own, nor are the breeder of the dog concerned. If you have "heard" the story perhaps you have not heard the full story and so may not really know what has transpired between breeder and owner or vet and owner...... these things can sometimes significantly change the viewpoint and the balance of responsibility.

I agree that this is a very strange "first post" ! Perhaps the poster is fishing to see if there have been others in the litter with the same problem !!!!! If there are littermates with the problem then YES the breeder should compensate as it is highly likely that this is a heritable or congenital issue. It's most unlikely that littermates would independently suffer the same "trauma" needed to develop the same problem. Unfortunately the OP hasnt stated what the problem is. I am "wondering" which breed this is..... story sounds a bit too familar to me. I know of a similar situation to the one described, except the puppy was much younger than 14-16 months when its problem was detected..... in fact it was noticed within 30 minutes of the puppy arriving at its new home !!! The old "it's not necessarily inherited", "can be caused by trauma" comments were offered..... the trouble was that pup arrived with the problem, but had been vet checked and was supposedly normal 2 days prior to its long plane trip. This was a case of a very well known, high profile vet missing something that was extremely obvious !!! Clearly the "vet check" wasnt at all thorough. The breeder and owner of the sire were both informed of the problem within hours of the puppy arriving, and unfortunately the new owner was called some nasty names by the owner of the sire. The inference was made that the new owner had somehow done something to "cause" the problem. Fortunately prior to its return to the breeder, the puppy was examined by two independent Board Certified specialists both of whom agreed that the problem was not minor and that it certainly existed well before the puppy was vet checked and sent to the new owner. Edit: With this particular problem there is great variation in the condition and sometimes it doesnt appear until somewhat later. It isnt uncommon for it to be detected at around 12-18 months of age but it can also be found in very young puppies, such is the variation of presentation. In mildly affected dogs the condition can be managed medically but in severe cases surgery is required. It is possible to have a traumatic condition but in many breeds the problem is recongnised as having a strong inherited factor. I do feel that perhaps the OP IS hunting for similarly affected littermates to the one that they have posted about !!

Total ablation sounds drastic but the results are amazing. If it is suggested as an option for your dog, try to speak with people who have gone down that path..... most owners are SO pleased with the results and many admit that they have delayed the procedure because of their concerns, but once done and healed it's a Godsend for so many animals and their owners. It's a procedure that should be done by an experienced specialist soft tissue surgeon but is well worth it. I know of many dogs that have had bilateral total ablations and the owners cant believe the difference that it has made to their dog's lives and to their own as well. First step is the derm referral and assessment of the disease, then a plan. You are on the right course now !

I think that your dog needs to see a Dermatologist. Trying to sort the problem yourself or without specialist help has a big chance of making things worse. To seek specialist help now, while it's in the early stages will mean that you wil spend less money and getan answer faster, and therefore it will be easier to help your dog. It's false economy to keep on trying all sorts of things without proof that you are on the right track...... this is also what can often make the problem worse than before. Many skin allergy trials need at least 6 weeks to be properly assessed by a professional so swappig and changing plans all the time is not helpful. You need a science-based plan worked out for your dog and you need to follow it rigidly.

Rules differ slightly from State to State. In all states the dog must be on Main register to be shown. To be exhibited at Open shows in Queensland, the owner does not need to be a DogsQld member but if entered in Championship shows, the owner must be a financial member of DogsQld by the closing date of entries for that show.

Two polarfleece track tops..... one pulled over her hindquarters and the other pulled over her head and forelegs. I modify them by adding a row of elastic to the bottom hems to stop them from sagging around the waistline of the dog. Another way is to cut out a V shape and use velcro to join the edges so that the garments fit snugly around the dog's waist and chest area. I use velcro tabs to join the front garment to the rear garment. I have used this for one of my arthritic oldies who hated the cold but wouldnt tolerate anything like a blanket or heating. An easier but more expensive option is to buy a thermal all-in-one. These can be bought at places like Khatmandu or via the net. Sometimes there needs to be a small amount of modification to make it dog-suitable rather than human suited ! I've found that these two options work well to help keep arthritic old legs warm and a coat can also be added to help keep extra body warmth in if it's really chilly. Edit for S&g

Pseudomonas can be very tricky to treat because it can change resistance rapidly, within days and what might start out to be a bug that is sensitive to one antibiotic can rapidly become resistant in a matter of a couple of days. As the infectious processes proceeds, tissues become inflamed and thickened which in turn make penetration of the antibiotics very difficult, hence its propensity to return again and again..... usually a bit more resistant each time it makes its return appearance You need to ask for a referral to a specialist dermatologist. These are usually the people who deal with chronic ear infections. There should be a work up done to decide if the problem has breached the middle and/or inner ear. If the infection is still confined to the outer ear canal then routine procedures still have a likelihood of success, but if the problem has reached the middle or inner ear structures then there is often little that can be done in the way of medical management and treatment. This is when surgery is recommended. I dont know who are the current "gurus" in Sydney but I'm sure that they will be of great help to you and your dog. Of course these services never come cheaply and so it is likely to be an expensive exercise but most of them get really good results. Andrew Marchevsky at SASH is a great surgeon should you reach the stage where you do need one...... but a DERM is the first port of call I think. In truly chronic infections where the problem has become centred in the middle or inner ear, the usual end stage procedure is a total ear canal ablation (different to a lateral resection)..... this is essentially where the structures of the outer and middle ear canals and the structures within the middle ear canal are surgically removed. The ear is completely closed over and there is no opening at all. The external ear flap is left intact and untouched. It sounds dreadful but I have seen many of them done and as long as they are done by an experienced specialist soft tissue surgeon the results are amazing. The cosmetics of the procedure are really good once healing and hair regrowth has occurred and the difference to the dog is incredible...... and of course the owner is so much happier as well. Some dogs can still hear sounds although at a different level and lower pitched, but some owners will say that the dog's hearing seems to have imporoved to that which was present prior to the surgery. I suppose that the surgery removes all the infected, inflamed and thickened tissues so that what remains can function better than before the surgery. Of course once healed, the pain and discomfort is gone as well as the need for constant medication and cleaning, so the dog is far more comfortable and the owner doesnt have to inflict these dreaded things onto their beloved dog.

t's not really clear to me exactly who is shown as Frank's registered owner on his Certificate of Registration. The person who is currently stated as his registered owner is able to apply for a new certificate of registration if it has been lost or destroyed. Once that is received by them they are then able to transfer his ownership to another person. If the dog's breeder was the last person shown on his C of R then that is the person that needs to apply for the new paperwork. If the person that you gave Frank to is shown as his owner on his C of R then they are the one that needs to apply. In order to make that application the dog's registered name and if possible, the reg number or microchip number needs to be stated on the application form. Just as an aside, I believe that the breeder was meant to transfer the ownership of the pup when it was first sold...... if that hasnt happened and they are reluctant to help you in this instance, perhaps a gentle reminder of that requirement could make them a bit more interested in your situation !

This link may be helpful http://www.animalwelfare.nt.gov.au/make_a_complaint There are several references to confidentiality and the due process that must be followed. Perhaps your friend was talking about the possibility of the case going to prosecution where it may be necessary that the names of the complainant are revealed to the court. What information is needed to make a complaint? You can make a complaint anonymously. However, we would appreciate it if provided contact details. This will enable an investigating inspector to contact you if they require more information. This contact information will be kept strictly confidential. Please be aware that if a matter goes to court and is defended, the court may require that the names of complainants are revealed. Other information you will need to provide includes: 1.The location of the animal(s). If this is at a fixed location, you will need to provide the address details. If the animals are located on or within a vehicle, you will need to provide the registration details, and a description of the vehicle. 2.The people involved. If known, the name, address and phone number of the person/s involved in the offence will be taken. If not, a clear description of all people involved should be provided. 3.Details of your concern about the animal. You need to provide information about the type and number of animals involved, the problem, and as much detail as possible about the animals condition. 4.Time and date of the alleged offence. You will need to advise of the date and time when you noticed the problem. 5.Any other information. If you are aware of any information which will help the inspector to investigate the complaint, for example if there are savage dogs, if the people involved are known to be abusive or violent, or the names and addresses of other witnesses to the cruelty. Providing false or misleading information is an offence. What happens when a complaint is made? The Animal Welfare Branch will record details and prioritise your call based on the immediate risk to the animal. The complaint will then be provided to a local authorised inspector or a police officer. The inspector or police officer may contact you if they need more information.. Inspectors need reasonable grounds before they can enter private property to investigate a complaint. An inspector will investigate the complaint and decide on action required. Actions will vary from case to case and may include: •taking no further action •providing advice and education on appropriate care •issuing directions to the owner to address welfare issues •collecting evidence to begin a prosecution seizing the animal(s)re-visiting to ensure that directions or advice have been followed. During this process, the inspector may call upon the expertise of a veterinarian or specialist. Feedback to complainants Privacy and legal considerations do not allow complainants to be provided with information on the specific outcomes of investigations, but do allow them to be advised that the complaint has been investigated and also if no offence has been detected.

At the bottom of each page of Breeder Listings is the following....... "The use of the Blue Ribbon or Red Ribbon image against a listing should not be used as a symbol of a breeder's quality. The ribbon image is used purely to identify the membership level the breeder has paid for on the site." Perhaps the statement would be better positioned at the top of each page.

I agree with you Espinay2. Alyosha what age is the pup ?? Is it underweight or overweight ? If the pup is not under optimal weight then it's energy requirements may be satisfied with the amount of food that it's eating at the moment. You mentioned Hill's diets.....if it's being fed Hills then the calcium:phosphorus ratio will be correct so there will be no need for supplementation and in fact to add further calcium to the diet will more than likely be detrimental. T4 levels in young rapidly growing animals are rarely accurate and unless there is a huge gap between the expected normal range and the blood result, thyroid supplementation is not generally recommended without further workup. In fact if there is a discrepancy in T4 that is considered abnormal then a full thyroid workup is usually suggested as T4 testing is often the first basic screen only. I doubt that the "lethargy", lack of energy and appetite are true clinical signs or are necessarily related to diet/nutrition or blood thyroid levels. You are correct in saying that long term health problems are more commonly seen from poor nutrition, but I guess that it comes down to an individual opinion of what constitutes "poor nutrition". Many people would say that to supplement an already balanced diet with calcium could bring an adequate nutritional plane into one that was not. Maximal growth is very rarely optimal growth and I feel that the "grow them slow" method is by far the best for any breed, particularly large or giant breeds.

If the owner is really concerned about issues with the retained testicle, it's possible to have just that one removed and then go back and take the normal one at a later date. In any case, most of the worrisome changes that can occur in an undescended teste take a very long time (years) to happen. Waiting until long bone growth has ceased will be the best for the dog in the long term. I have known owners with a dog that had one normal and one retained testicle to only have the retained one removed because they wanted a dog that wasnt castrated. The surgery to take the undescended one was done around 7 months of age when it was determined via ultrasound that the testicle was intra abdominal and was not going to descend. He stayed a "onesie" all his days, lived a long and very healthy life, and they did not ever regret their decision to allow him to keep his "normal nut" as they called it. There are options other than a total castration and perhaps the owners might like to raise these with their vet. If they need peace of mind that the retained teste wont do bad things to their dog, it can be removed on its own while the dog is still young but the other one left to allow the dog to complete his growth in a normal fashion. The need for full castration can then be decided at the owner's leisure.