Cordelia

At 15mths, the Dane could be put onto a higher protein diet with no ill effects for growth plates etc.

Even the speciaist giant breed formula's are massively high in protein (often over 28%) and it isn't good for their legs in particular.

A high protein diet makes giant breeds grow too quickly thus putting too much stress on joints.

Bonnie working Dog is actually a decent food and he should b putting on some weight as long as he isn't being exercised much.

Having said that...... my Genevieve is 2 1/2 yrs now so has pretty much finished growing and I have so much trouble keeping weight on her too. She's as lanky as all get out and I've just put her on to Eukanuba Puppy in the hope that she'll bulk up a bit now.

Turners Petmart

670 Richmond Road

Glendenning (02) 9626-8485

M - W 9 till 5.30

Thurs 9 till 8 PM

Fri 9 till 5.30

S - S 9 till 4.30

Just so folks know....... Turners now sell pups in their store (they didn't before the overhaul of their warehouse).

Walked in there one day.... litter of Dobermann bubs for sale....... walked straight back out again and will never go back there.

Oh Bloody hell Mav. So sorry mate. Hugs to you.

Rest In Peace Amy.

Hugs from all here Sidoney.

It's just as well you didn't receive a bark collar for your rescue dog if she suffers separation anxiety as it could have TRAUMATISED your dog!

Rubbish!

The collar is a useful tool in stopping the CYCLE of stress.

Dog becomes stressed and barks which in turn stimulates that dog and increases stress levels in turn increases the barking which increases the stress which increases the barking further etc etc.

While some dogs scream (carry on like a porkchop) when they set the collar off, if you leave them alone and don't flip out yourself in front of the dog, they will learn that THEY control the stimulation of the collar completely and actually learn to settle down.

To cut a long story short he was put on to 'Prozac' to calm his panic so that I could begin to communicate with him.

This is an extreme case if the use of drugs is needed in order to get even basic control.

Most dogs DON'T freak out when they first feel a stimulation unless the people/person near them also carries on like a porkchop about it.

If it does prove to be Botulism (which, in canned food is the most likely cause), there will be no way to prove conclusively that it was a manufacturing problem or that any other cans were infected.

The fact that there hasn't been at least State wide reports of deaths or illness suggests that it is likely to be a very tragic, yet isolated incident.

Be aware that if it is a major brand, they will do everything in their power to show that they are not at fault, including blaming human error (once the cans were sold) and they have the money to do so.

I can totally understand why the name hasn't been mentioned as this could open up the path for a massive lawsuit that the company will win.

So pleased the last Collie is starting to do better. I pray she continues to improve.

Sorry, but just to clarify something......

Is she a purebred GSD?? (and from a Registered breeder?)

Is Benadryl a natural product???

Maybe not, but it is highly effective, faster and longer acting than honey.

Putting a dog onto a low dose course of antibiotics for a week can also help prevent a secondary infection (you'll know if she's going to get a secondry infaction after 3 days of the cough appearing usually).

Tixilix works well too.

I don't see the point in heaps of natural products that all need to work together and can be costly when there is one product (Benedryl) that works very well. :rolleyes: and I've never had any dog or pup suffer even the slightest negative side effect from using it. :rolleyes:

I think it's time to impliment some Tough Love!

She has a crate. USE IT! Sorry, but Tess will get over any initial hissy fits in it. (not yelling at you pheebs just making that stand out).

The Clomicalm will NOT work if the dosage rate is chopped and changed and her routine keeps changing to accomodate her (Tess that is).

The use of Clomicalm is only going to be effective if a strict re-training programme is implimented otherwise it is pointless having her on the drug.

I would be more inclined to get her onto a daily low dose of valium to calm her down gernerally as she is obviously stressed if her routine keeps changing, then valium is a better option as it is more effective in the short term. (Clomicalm takes up to a month to take any effect).

Oh btw...... the 5.7 acre property across the road from me (4 bedroom house is nice) has been up for rent for almost 12mths. They'll take what they can get I reckon), if you can get 1 or 2 other people to move in with you, I'm sure they will allow a dog/s. (I know it's not close to Chatswood but the bus stop is literally at the driveway and goes straight to Parramatta).

That would be great! Thanks Axel.

Will PM you my addy.

Thats not quite right Lia.

It depends on why/for what purpose the dog is trained........

Dogs used in Security work ie: Protection trained dogs that are working are classified and come under the same regulations that Restricted dogs do. The difference is that if they bite someone whilst working, they are ok, but if they bite someone in the owners yard or in public whilst NOT 'on duty' (as in actual security work/shift) then the owner will be charged with having a restricted dog not contained/controlled etc.

COMPANION ANIMALS ACT 1998 - SECT 55

Restricted dogs

55 Restricted dogs

The following dogs are restricted dogs for the purposes of this Act:

(a) pit bull terriers,

(b) American pit bull terriers,

© Japanese tosas,

(d) Argentinian fighting dogs (dogo Argentino),

(e) Brazilian fighting dogs (fila Brasileiro),

(f) any other dog of a breed, kind or description prescribed by the regulations as restricted for the purposes of this Division.

Note: For example, dogs used as guard dogs by security personnel could be prescribed as restricted dogs

LINK: http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...998174/s55.html

Great Dane............ voila

Haha! Ya got me on that one. Should have thought about that one a bit more. hehe too busy thinking MY Dane hehe.

I have a Dachy x here who thinks she is Sch trained.

As to tests - yes there are tests to eliminate fruitloops.

Basically it is to find the dogs confidence, obiedience and bite (by bite I mean deep with full mouth plus a hold with a mouth, it is not good if the dog bites the sleave and shakes the sleave trying to "kill" it)

Actually, I meant fruitloop owners not the dogs. You know.. the guys who do actually want a dog to bite intruders and have a dog that proves how 'manly' they are etc.

Surely an owner should also prove that they are stable enough to be responsible with the knowledge and training these dogs go through??

Agreed Pheebs.

Break the pattern she is establishing by crating her at night. She's a good girl and will get used to it quickly.

I'd put the crate close to where she decided to sleep (upstairs).

I would be extremely surprised if Tess urinated in a crate.

My theory.... rescue remedy may help her. I believe she is stressed. (I don't know why she is, but I do believe she is).

The Revolution should be stopped asap.

And I would also just change and use ADVOCATE which does fleas, HW and worms all in one go as well as getting rid of the fleas in her environment. (sentinal does not do this). It will also kill earmites.

If she still has ear mites (tested under microscope), then there is also a treatment available that you just pop it down her ears and it will fix the problem almost immediately. (can't remember the name of it though).

Get rid of some of the chemicals in her system (too many atm) and crate her, give her RR and I bet the problem stops.

Still have a vet visit though, just to make sure you have a baseline in case of illness.

K9: of course you know that Sch 1 is obedience, Sch 2 is tracking & Sch 3 is protection. So when saying you wont rehome a Sch trained dog, you mean titled in Sch 3.

Obviously. (since no one mentioned if I would rehome dogs with specific levels, I assumed this meant fully titled).

K9: this is very rarely the case, dominance bleeds over into aprehension, meaning dominant dogs rarely perform well...

Depends on who is training them I guess.

Personally, I would have felt that Sch training required a high level of confidence from the dog. Highly confident dogs are often dominant animals. (please Steve, note that I said 'often' not always).

The chances of a bite trained dog biting someone are less than a non bite trained dog...

Another big 'depends' on that one. Depends on who is handling the dog. Someone who knows what they are doing as opposed to your average pet owner or someone who is using the dog as a spare pair of testicles.

It would be a shame not to re home such a well trained animal.

Ok. If I ever get someone wanting to surrender their level III Sch trained dog, I shall refer them directly to you.

Look what he does with a sleave.

Dont some dog do the same with a rope/ball/fluffy toy?

Yep, they do...... but the difference is that none of mine ever "win" the toy at the end. If they can beat me (which admitedly, isn't hard), then I don't allow the game to occur (especially with the dominant ones here).

Retraining a dog that does the tug of war with a rope and than a fetch would be just as easy to retrain to do human bite work as it would be to retrain this dobe.

Sorry. I don't agree. Perhaps in some of the guarding breeds it would be, but generally, most dogs of other breeds won't go from hanging off a rope toy, to hanging off a bite sleeve. If that were the case...... you'd see Labradors and Shelties and possibly Great Danes in Sch training videos.

BTW I am happy that this subject came up, and we can sort of hihgjack, perhaps it will educate people that protection trained dogs are not dangerous - they are simply very well TRAINED.

Ok, I'm hoping no one thinks that I believe that Sch training produces dangerous dogs? That was not what I think or meant to convey.

My original question was only meant as a question regarding council/ Local Govt laws..... thats all.

However.... protection training of any kind by the wrong person/people can and will produce a very dangerous animal. which leads me to one more question.......

Is there a test (psychological or otherwise) or some standard that a person has to complete prior to entering into Sch training with their 'pet'??? (to actually weed out the nutbags)????

Oh and one more comment................ what is with the BARKING these dogs do??????????? I'd stop whatever I was doing simply to get the dog to shut up!! If protection training involves that much barking what is the purpose?

To annoy a person into submitting??

(sorry, I am being sarcastic as I find barking exceedingly irritating but i don't understand WHY it is needed??)

Getting back to the subject - Cordelia - would you rehome such dog?

Truthfully......... No, I would not.

Having said that, the chances of my ever having a Sch trained dog surrendered to me is pretty much NIL.

Why wouldn't I rehome a Sch trained dog?

Because of the risks associated with any dog who has been trained in bite work. Regardless of the fact that a sleeve is the decoy (therefore, should be no sleeve, no bite), it isn't a big step to train a dog to go a person without a sleeve if the preliminary work is already done.

Of course, any dog can bite given the right circumstances but I just won't rehome a dog who has the training to do so.

The other thing...... dogs who exel in Sch are very dominant, confident dogs....... confidence I like. Very high level of dominance in a large breed..... no thanks for me or for the people who come to me looking for just a nice natured pooch.

Takes a strong, dominant human to own a dog like that..... (thats me at times but I won't challenge a pissed off large breed ) and that ISN'T your average family.

Hi there,

Thanks for that.

I have emailed a few clubs in Australia and none have got back to me yet.

Certainly doesn't seem to be any laws (council or Govt) pertaining to Schutzhund trained dogs anyway.

I'm curious though why you ask? Are you rescuing a dog with Schutzhund experience?

Nope. I won't rehome any dog that I know has had any kind of protection training at all (even if it is just sport). Wouldn't risk it.

Like I said.... was merely curious.

Hi there,

Just curious if there are any specific laws pertaining to dogs in NSW (or Australia overall) who have been trained in Schutzhund??

I know Schutzhund training is legal and there are 3 clubs in NSW who do it (as well as other security companies etc that do it) but I am looking for laws, if any as to whether these dogs would then be classified as being 'Restricted" or 'Dangerous' under the NSW Companion Animals Act (or anywhere else) due to the bite work etc that is involved in part of the training.

Any infor or links greatly appreciated.

Look, when it comes down to it, it is personal preference. Agree or don't agree as long as a pet dog ends up desexed at some point prior to having a season/litter, I don't care!

My comment regarding a vet being inexperienced was based on the comment that a vet wouldn't early desex because the 'bits' were too hard to find. Sorry, but that is the poorest excuse not to desex and I seriously would worry and not allow a vet who couldn't find organs in a pup to do early desexings on my babies.

I usually suggest 16wks as a good age to desex when talking to other pet owners. Pup not so small that the owner feels 'bad' about putting them under anaesthesia.

Personally, I just don't trust the general population enough to not desex early. The risks for me just don't outweigh the enormous potential for desexing to fall by the wayside in a busy, normal household and too many people have proven this right. (I currently have 2 bitches who whelped here, another litter I'm handrearing, another pregnant bitch and picking up 2 more pregnant girls this week.

At least for me, I know I'm stopping the cycle for the dogs/pups in my care. That not one of mine will ever contribute to the problem of undesexed animals and unwanted litters (or wanted litters for that matter).

For a Rescue......there should be no other choice.

Actually, there is a lower risk involved in desexing pups than older dogs and less post op complications as well.

I know a couple of vets who won't spey female puppys, they say they almost need a microscope to find the right bits.

Then they don't have enough experience in doing them.

My vets have no trouble at all locating the 'right bits' within seconds of opening the pup up. Over and done with within minutes and 1 stitch to remove 7 days later.

All depends on the vets experience level with early desexing. Mine do over 15 a day 4 days a week so it isn't an issue.

Yes, the RSPCA would carry out the op on an 8wk old pup. So would I if it was going in to be desexed anyway.

Better out than in and at a younger age, the testicle is 'usually' easier to find in a monorchid than it is in an adult.

Quicker recovery all round.

The advantage, I use on wee puppies for fleas..it is brilliant ..we have (with vet advice) used it on 2 day old bubs!

Advantage has always been safe to use on bubs from 2 days old.

Not sure how effective it is against ticks though?????

Seriously guys, if you try to import a prong collar of any description, not only will it be seized, but you will be charged by the RSPCA..... I would advise against getting any prong collar from OS regardless of whether it is plastic or not.

And here I was thinking it was some kind of horror thing......... when it was just a normal prong collar.

Morons who shouldn't be in power to makes rules about things they nothing of.

Puncture and bruise............ pffffffftttttt.

Bloody idiots.

I've had numerous pups develop this condition (like Hogan).

I have always found it to be in pups (obviously rescues) who come in malnourished with heavy worm burden.

Worm pup, premium dry diet and chook necks and once the worms are gone...... that can be the result, often after a week in care.

A sudden increase in weight/growth due to sudden decent feeds and their tendons/muscles etc are just not capable of carrying around some extra weight (even though it isn't 'excess' weight).

Every pup I have had with this condition has corrected within 2wks without splinting and although i had the pups confined, it was in a large pen where they were still able to walk about easily.

and 12kg at 12wks for an ACD pup seems huge!

Just curious....... is this dog from a Registered Breeder? Does he have pedigree papers etc???