petmezz

Hi Erny yep i'm planing to ferther my studdies with them as i'm enjoying it so much, i all redy have info on a few of the specialised areas. (might need to moove down their though, the travel is killing me) :D Hi Rom the NDTF seams more informative, and more strict and structured then delta. i have had the privalege to be tought by several delta trained people who work in a verry profecional setting. i persionaly had questions as to the knowlage they where teaching me, and found that whill not entierly correct it was correct in the context but they couldn't brorden it to other areas. i'm friends with some one who is 3/4 the way through Delta, and she is totaly different to the above. we bounce off idears with each other, and she was amased that their are timed exams with NDTF. if you want to pm me your email i will send it to her so you can hear what she has to say. Also pm poodlefan, she has some feelings on delta trained people.

hi i'm half way through and i LOVE IT.... highly recomended :D , if you have the time and money. only advise i have is to allow extra time for dog training, of both your dog and at obediance schools.

hi if you serched hard enough you would find many chemicals on all the food you eat, the food your pets eat and even food wild animals eat, it is apart of life. whill the levals are high in pet foods i wonder how high they are in our own food, how much under the table payments happen to get things through. how do you think they manage to keep the vegitabls "fresh" whill in storage? they use chemicals, it is every whear. lillysmum........ in deed the best stake has been hung for a whill. well done on being a vegetarian i couldn't do it.

hi the advice allredy given is great, use it and you whon't have a problem. some more info for you. make training fun, and start now...... my huskys think they have won the lotto if i howl with them, chase them or they chase me, allow them to jump on me. these are good rewords that tend to work well with huskies but make shour you don't over use these. also food treets, some toys and verbal praise are good. training sessions should be short as well as fun..... stop the training when the pup still want's to perform and end on a super positive note. three 3 to 5 min sessions and general life traning a day is great. no time?? what about when you are wating for the kettel, or when adds come on whill watching tv. don't do repotitions of the same action break it up, so in one session do come - sit- drop and in another one sit - stay - come mix all the comands so the dog lerns the word association not the pattern order the commands are. domanance can be a problem, and it is usually with the dog for life. what people have mentioned is so true with the husky. if you are not on the ball with this breed you will find your self lower in the pack and you may not realise how or why you are their. they don't do it through direct threts, just general disobediance and become a real handfull to manage by the time of direct threts you are allredy lower then the dog and need serious profecional help. to establish your self as alfa, you must act as alfa other wise the dog will take this role on. to do this you need to train the dog, and be strong that cute face will always be their learn to say no to it. if the pup is playing to hard, growl at it and if the pup still plays to hard growl again and ignore the pup. if the pup starts creating trubble (playing with items not to be played with) place the dog out of site into a safe area, and leave it their ignore the cryes, let him out or in after 2 min or after he is quiet for 1 min. don't make a fuss over him for a few minets then start paying attention to him. this works well for the breed and is a great way to teach the dog what you say go's.

hi it sounds like the pup is settiling in fine, what you are doing with the dogs and pup is great, the puppy droping into a submissive position is good for the moment, the pup is recognising your girl as boss, and by droping like that the pup prevents (usually) ferther "disaplen" from the dog. it is normal for the pup to be a bit scared of the dogs, but the pups need for socalisation will over ride it's fear, he has lern't how to interact with dogs from his mother and littermates, and now he is trying it out on another dog, he probably feels like you would just befor a big exam, and you haven't fully prepared for it, so the pup feels a bit angsious, constantly thinking what should i do, and reading the other dogs body language. it is ok for the pup fo feel scared..... as long as you are in control of the other dog or situation. don't comfert the pup for showing signs of being scared, just ignore the pup and act confident, and remove the pup from the enviroment it is scared of, usually by walking away the pup will follow make shour the dog can not follow if he is scared of the dog give the pup a minnet to gain confidence again and walk back into the situation the pup was scared of praise the pup for following give the dog and pup a pat and praise. i would get the pup to puppy preschool asap, this will help with training, and give you some gidance to what you should be doing with the pup. 8 weeks is the perfict age to get your puppy, he is in his human, and world socalation period this means get active with the pup, go for walks, puppy preschool, teach to sit before dinner, and human dog social manners. use praise, food, toy, play and pat rewords in training never limmet your self to one type of reinforcment, it will pay off latter. hip testing is done between one and two years of age you have a whill to wate. if you socilise your pup at puppy preschool, and known (puppy) friendly dogs you will have less chances of dog aggression also desexing will help. i hope i have been a little help for you.

as mentioned, any equipment used on a dog can be used incorrectly and cause harm. i don't have a problem with check chains, if used properly, however i have great conserns if they are not used correctly and this also goes for halty type collers to. as for the club, do you feel conftable their? have you been and observed the training nights? do they allow positive reinforcment, as well as the check chain? do you know the experiance of the instructors? if you don't like the use of a check chain i would look at a limeted slip coller to fit into what the club wants, this way your not going to harm the dog by giving it a too big check, and you may fell happier.

hi their is no problem with having a sibe and small dog together provided the owner of the dogs knows what they are doing and the sibe was introduced as a puppy. the thing with sibe is that they need a very special owner, one that understands dogs, pack structure, pray drive, and dominance with dogs. i have 2 sibes and i'm chalanged several times a day by each, the chalanges are so minor, but mean a lot in the relationship with the dogs. a sibe owner must be prepared to deal with this for the rest of the dogs life, and if the owner slakens off it shows, usualy with the rangers knocking on their dore and sezing the dog. a sibe that is let to do what it want's will think nothing of killing (other animals) except it was fun and lets do it again, this is why some people have posted like they have as they fear for the little dog. i to have conserns for the small dog but if the owner follows rosepetals advice they can live happaly together.

isaviz. well done on the quick thinking with the pup, i don't think most people would have been able to save the pup. as for feeding, the crate sounds great, i had a simular problem a few months ago with a pup that would go to another dogs bowl and growl at the dog. after about a week of training they where fine, and all 3 dogs eat together now though they all face different directions. you sound like you have it sorted.

Hey Gemibabe ..... you lost your teeth or something? ^ apparently my brain wasn't conected to my fingers this morning. sorry Gemibabe for spelling you name wrong, hope you didn't take offence . just to defend my sugestion with the food thing, this is just how we do things in the family home, and we have never had a problem with the rescued abused dogs, even ferral cats became tame, mabe i didn't explain properly.

hi good on you for taking this dog on Gumibabe . unfortunatly the issues with your new dog will take a long time to over come :rolleyes: . just be quiet and friendly and eventually the dog will trust you and not act scared. for the food thing, try several small feeds of a high value food a day in his food bowl give him pats when he eats the food, if he whon't eat the food with you their just move away and say good dog or something simular when he eats the food, make shour your voice is soft, and gental sounding. the dog should establish it is ok to eat from the bowl in a few weeks. good luck. with the voice thing, it will be easer to rember not to use loude voices for a whill. work on gaining the dogs trust, that you are not going to hert the dog. use your other dog play with the dog whill around the unshour dog, this will imatate to the abused dog that their is nothing to be afrade off, but make shour the games you play do not imatate a fight, so tug games, ball games, hide an seek, catch me if you can are all good games to play, leave rough restiling for a mounth or so. be happy, if you notice the dog being unshour slinking back and so on, make a fuss over some thing (other then the dog) and get excited about what ever, when the dog begins to investigate what you on about reword him with a nice treet but keep the reword low key. the main thing with your rescue dog is to remain calm, respect the dogs fealings and go slow......... their is no quick fix, the dogs recovery could take days or years and deing a bull breed they are renown for having a long memory. an abused corgi that we receved took years to over come his fears of men. in fact on his 7th year with us (he was 9 then) he accepted dad when he was drinking out the back. this brought dad to tears as this dog for 7 years would not go near him if he had a drink, and would cower away and hide. when the dog acepted the fact that dad was not going to hert him, you couldn't seporate them they where best mates. the point is this dog has serious trust issues, and you are going to need to be farly quiet, calm, and rember their is no quick fix. don't push the dog to far and fast. and rember the dog is happy, he has a good home now with dog friends, and people who wan't to help, give him time and he will come around. just make shour he never sees the ass who mistreeted him, if he dose it may undo all the work you have done and he might go back to the dog you have now. hope this was of some help. Good luck

lots of thoughts with you and Kal, i hope things work out. if you need any help of any kind just let me know and i'll do my best.

YAY good to hear, you must be so releaved give your dogs a hug for me.

hi try encuraging him with a bridge word. do you know how to creat this bridge word?? if after several attemps over a few days this dosn't work get back to me their are other methods to get the desired results. it is good that your treets are in your right hand this means your not luring him all the time. insted of diping into the food pouch to keep him motivated try talking to him in a friendly high tone tell him he is good and what he is doing means the world. it would possably be good to try this on walks first, this way your not disterbing the class, and you can veary the speed of your walk so if he becomes interested in something, say "lets go" hop skip run any thing to get his mind off what ever and on to you as soon as he looks at you give a small treet (half a 5 cent size). and continue your walk, it is important to randomaly do the above so the dog dosn't know he needs to do something to get the reword, it just happens when you suddenly talk to him and change your speed. ok even though you are not giving him a food treet you are still rewording his behaviour. by giving him attention you are rewording him, i wouldn't give any attention to the undesired action i wouldn't look at him, no words no contact possably even get up and walk away act disapointed. wate 2 min and then ask again be redy to give a jack pot when he finaly dose the action, make him think he has won the doggy lottery lots of praise, and food treets given one at a time about 4 treets, and a tugg play. do this and you will see an incress in his attention to you. (hopfully) ok for this you may need to go strate back to stage one however try this first. walk with your dog in heel position, stop and ask for a sit, when he dosn't ignore him, walk again with the dog in heel occasionaly give verbal praise for a realy good position make the praise random, ask for a sit, when he finally dose it give him a reword, praise and do it again. the trick is to stop befor your dog gets bored and gradually incress the time etc. dose the dog know that what he is doing is what you want??? i would use an extended bridge so the dog knows what he is doing is what you want again start small and work your way up this goes for both the action and the time between the bridge and the actuall reword. hop this made some sence and helped you a little.

hi a few questions. have you talked to your instructor, if so what have they advised?? how have you tried to phase out the treets?? how are you giving the treets to the dog ie what hand are the treets in, are you constantly dipping into the treet pouch, size of the treets. what do you do when the dog dose his "tricks" to get the food?? have you used any punishment on your dog like "UAUA" or with holding treets, any other forms of mild punishment? can you go into more depth on what happens hear. from the look of it your dog knows to get the food he has to disobay your comand, play around and when back into position he will get the food. is my assumption correct hear? when are you giving the treets?? is it every time he dose the wright thing, occasionally when he dose the wright thing? will he only do the wright thing if he sees the food first? sorry about all the questions but they will help me and others on trying to help you.

hi i use what ever is needed to receve a result. i do use corrections at times, i use food, toy and voice rewords, i lure with food and toyes, i will bridge behaviours with a word "YES" or a clicker and i will simply ignore sertan behaviours. depending on the situation depends on what i use and i will use a combination of things to get the results i want. the main thing about training dogs is to make it fun for the dog, if they are not having fun try a different method. if they are having to much fun and deciding they can get away with anything again try a different method.

hi if you can't get the dog to a profesional groomer, this is what i would recomend (though i only have experiance with huskys not mals they have a longer coat). sit with your dog, and pull out the tuffs that you can (this is a part of blowing the coat the tuffs are usualy normal), then get your rake and go with the coat continue untill only small amounts of fur is comming out or untill you get tired lol. then use the comb to go over the brushed area, and work on any matts. to do mats just hold the matted fur tightly so it dosn't pull and using the comb brush the matt taking care not to actually pull the dogs fur, work on the matts most will come out. i would hold off the barth to, try 1 barth a mounth and dry with a towl around the rump area and request the use of conditioner, this will make the coat easer to groom. i would be brushing the dog every 2nd day during shedding times autum and spring, and then 1 or 2 times a week non shedding times just to stop matts. good luck and welcom to the world of dubble coated breeds

hi this is a realy interesting topic, i can see K9's point, a very interesting way to train a dog. i also fell that this method will work for some family pets, though i don't see the average JO putting the time and effort into this form of training. for to nutralise the dog to sittuations it would need to have LOTS of soculisation, all be it with Nutral stimulass, but it is still soculisation the puppy IS reacting with the enviroment, just finding no rewords with in it but that handeler gives the best rewords possable. Am i on the right track here K9 Force? this form of training could be very usfull, i have done a simular thing with my huskys and sledding but deffinatly not to it's full potential. need to learn more

hi my dogs love it, but they only get it as a treet every now and then. but my dogs will fight over who gets the bird seed that has fallen on the ground lol. definatly keep the supercoat dry (or better quality) as the main diet, and try the honey water mix or vegie mite water mix over top of the dry food. i have also made a broth every now and then to give some thing different just boiled vegies and bones, remove all bones let cool and mix in dry food and feed most dogs like this to and will eat it after being pick with the dry food.

hi all their seems to be a mouse and rat problem at the moment, here i was thinking i was unique lol :D on this situation i would place the rat bait in side of the humane trap, this way your dogs can't eat it, and the mice and rats can come and go as they please so to speek, you can also moniter how often the rodents are getting in their by the amount eatin. ask at the local farm center, or dog pound/bording facility. after going through a scare my self, as long as you know what product/type the dog ate (call poisens info line 24 houre servace) and then you call the vet pass on the info from the poisens info line, they will advise you on what to do (doing it this way will save you money and time). if it is the slow acting one they (vet) will wate around 3 days as the tests will be negitave before this time (apparently), get you in and do the blood test the results will be avalable that day. however if it was the fast acting one get their asap, spent the $50 to get the dog tested and start treetment asap. as for poisining by eating poisend animals, it is possable but extreemly unlikly to cause death or serious ingeries. when i was reading up on the effects i came accros a studdy that found some thing like 80% of dogs that eate rat bait will pass the rainbow bridge, but some thing like 5% will show signs of poisining after consuming poisend rodents, verry few to non will die from the secondary form of poisining ie eating a few poisend rodents. actually the same way one just has a delaid reaction. they are both anty coagulents. please be vigalent every one, it is hart braking just thinking your dog has eatin this stuff, let allone going through what pampa has. pampa good vibes going your way, keep your dog quiet for a little longer just to be safe.

your por dog and i hop you are doing ok, get out the cotten wool and rap your dog up for a week. hopfully all will be ok sending out good vibes, fingers crossed. to those that didn't know about the delay in the poisining of animals, please note that in Australia i do beleave we have 2 types of rat bates, their is the fast acting (24 hours) and a slow acting (7 to 14 days) the slow acting ones are more redaly avalable now due to reserch showing rats and mice will not eat the food they can smell on the dead rat/mouse if it has been recently consumed. making the new formular with delayed responce more effective. if any one thinks ther dog has consumed any poisen first call the poisens info line with the product at hand, they will tell you vital info that you and the vet will need to hear, then rush to the vet with the pet and product. (i lernt this through a scare with 2 different poisens, one rat bate). hop all goes well for your dog please keep us posted of progress. my hart goes out to you and your dog

sounds like a long distance mushers dreem dog they breed for this very trate. adding liqued to the food can help, i have added water to my boys food to prevent what you are experiancing it worked ok but now i just give him the food he has lernt not to choke on it.

other for me i use bonnie working dog for off seasion, an expencive mix for winter, usually a mix of inova, pro plan, science diet ect. i havent found a premium food i'm happy with yet i don't fell you get what you pay fore.

hi that nutro stuff has lots of grain in it. i wouldn't feed it to my dogs because of that, but that also come from a persion who will happily feed bonnie working dog to my gies in off seasion supplimented with meat, fish, off course. this is the only ballance i have found that my dogs will eat, and it has put a little weight on (but not to much), so now they don't look like sprint dogs just family pets and have healthy coats ect. it is all about what your dog dose well on, my brothers dog will get sick if fedd bonnie, science diet, pro plan , but thrives on the no name brand from woolies (also gets suplimented by what the twins give the dog ie, fruit, bickies, droped dinner. it just depends on the dog.

way to familar but unfortunatly at the moment that is what happens

hi get the dog to a different vet asap. it could be a zinc problem, but not entirely, it is more likly an infection requiring medical treetment now... make shour the dog is getting lots of water to drink, your friend may need to do this by hand depending on how bade the dog is, you need to keep the pup well hydrated or you may loose it. tempt the pup on some mild, cooked chicken again hand feed if necasery, if he dosn't eat it leve it nere the pup for 15-30 min to see if he will eat it on his own. deffinatly get the pup to a new VET ASAP