rubiton

Are you guys kidding???? Just burn the images to DVD and or CD and delete the older ones off the PC! (just do two copies and only keep the really special images on the computer as well) If I tried to keep every photo on the computer with taking up to 2GB each week I'd have no space left.

WEll today its starting to get loose again so again thats it no more bread and no more tiny pieces of mortadella (which Im assuming is a processed meat). Hills id food only both can and dry that she now has. Hopefully its just a reaction to the human food being fed too early.

Have sent you a pm tara & sam. As long as she keeps going ok with the hills food will start to reintroduce the dry food late in the week/weekend. Todays effort better than Sunday but not quiet as normal as yesterday. Of course all this has put an end to going to teh million paws walk day neither her or I am fit enough to do the 2.5km walk let alone the 5km.

Sunday was the first one since whatever came out last Monday. I asked the vet in the first week and he said it wasn't unusual for nothing to pass for a few days as all the dog was getting was rice and chicken (and not that much) so most was going into the dog - and with little to eat for two days at the start of the medication (both weeks) the idea was to rest the system so it could heal. Well since we stepped up the amount of food and moved to teh hills science diet i/d (and those treats on Sat) obviously enough was going in to have something come out the other. Todays sample was lesser amount but looked relatively normal. She will stay on the restricted diet for another week and in a few days start introducing her back to normal food as long as things keep going well. Any backwards step and I'll be calling the vet.

At this stage she is up to two meals a day and as she is starting to refuse the rice (I would too after two weeks) we've moved to the hill i/d diet which was the alternative suggested by the vet to feed her - this she hoovers down. That's all she will be eating - no more treats. I'll monitor to see what comes out over the next few days - obviously if she go backwards again it will be back to the vet again but wasn't sure if it was normal for it to be right colour and size but just a bit loose or if she should have gone straight back to normal first up (nothing has come out of the dog since last Monday).

OK so I wont panic yet - no more snacks for a few more days until another one or two 'better samples' appear I think. Bindi Boo - yes thats what happened to the dog after a few days turned to liquid and wanted to go outside about once an hour during the evening and then there was the drops of blood too. Had to starve her for 24 hours after vet visit as vet gave her antibiotic injection too then started on chicken adn rice 6 times a day and then 5 times a day and so on. Of course dogs arent like us - they will eat regardless of what comes out!! We've had to restrict her water all week too as she drinks to much and it all comes back along with whatever is left in there - so to keep the medication in cut back on water. I think the rice makes them want more water as she hasn't been as desperate today as on the straight rice. Wasnt good waking up to whimpering dog (who was obviously so full she couldnt get up stairs to get us in the middle of the night) to go outside then 5 minutes later she threw up more water then more at some later stage (discovered by me getting a bucket from the laundry and I went flying on the 'wet' floor) that was when the water was cut back (was when she was fasting a week ago).

Just looking for advice. Dog got gatro from a suspected bad can of food about 2 1/2 weeks ago. Two weeks ago she was passing basically liquid so was off to the vet and was put on amoxcil and rice & chicken diet. There was some improvement but liquid returned a week ago. So back to vet and this time she's had twice a day doses of peptosyl, amoxcil and flagyl. After losing a fiar bit of weight and now turning her nose up at the rice she was started on the hillls i/d food last night. Yesterday she was also fed a handful of normal dry food, a schmacko strip, a scooby snack, piece of bread and some banana (I was out of the house at the time). She has also lost a bit of weight being fed only a fraction of what she woud usually get through meals and treats. She wont be getting further snacks today only the hill diet i/d food Today was her first bowel movement since starting the second lot of treatment and while the colour and basic form is much more normal its still a bit loose. Is this normal while recovering? Should it not have been loose at all? When can normal food (ie the snacks - shes got another week before normal dog food should be back) be reintroduced? Thanks for any help

Yes thought it was cats who had to have meat to survive (remember an animal planet episode of some collector who feed them some kind of cereal). The cereal collectors dog looked better than the cat but wasnt exaclty thriving but thik they said dogs could survive butcats cant. However wouldnt it be better for the dog to thrive (rather than just survive) on a balanced diet. For gawds sake don't let your friend buy a cat in case they come up with some crazy notion that meat diet could be replaced - trying to restrict the dogs diet is bad enough.

Thanks - was thinking of fasting her overnight and see how she goes (that would be nothing from lunch today til tomorrow morning).

Can it give them an upset stomach whenthey are fine with smooth peanut butter? Could it have upset her system already suspected as being upset a few days earlier by newly opened can of food. Try to work out what is causing the loose now liquid bowel motions. Wednesday night opened new can of food in the early hours of Thursday morning she had to go outside twice (hour apart). Thursday night she is fine but wants to go out early but is inside nearly all day Friday no problems. Friday at lunch gets some crunchy peanut butter on bread and Friday night again has to go outside once (talking 1am here). Sat morning loose motion but thats all no problem that night either. Today seems she was fed peanut butter again sometime around lunch and is desperate to get outside and this time its liquid (small right colour - no blood) when I get home (around 4pm). Dog is fine in herself, eating, drinking all fine. Or should I not give her food for a period of time so the system can settle down? She does have another vet appointment on Wed for her cartrophen injection so will mention it but in the meantime am trying to work out if its a reaction to the food.

But number 4 is awfully close....

LOL - yes exactly. Forget being able to capture that brilliant sporting moment thats easy (apparently) go for that person pic (and its scarey I can picture the exact type of image!!) And that person pic must be in black and white too - adds more character or something

The quality of the work is the equal of any other of its type in the country but it was quite amazing they were rejected. That was a few years ago though. I am signed up with an overseas stock library but only have a handful of shots uploaded as what I consider a brilliant shot they see oh a racehorse and mark it down compared to some arty thing (yesI was insulted when they marked a photo one ranking down so it could not be seen by the prospective photo buyer when other less clear ones went straight through). Therefore its hard to accept what many organisations consider brilliant compared to average when arty stuff is so often favoured.

So you have a digital image (colour etc taken by a digital camera) - correct? And then there is a second image taken on film so its a negative - also correct? OK basially you need to get the negative scanned (Im assuming its a 35mm and n colour) OR get a print done from teh neg and scan the print at hi res on a flat bed scanner. The you just combine the two images in photoshop or similar program (you cut and size the extra person (neg photo image) and drop them in teh main image. It can work if its a group type shot and you are just putting them in but because all hotos are likely to have slightly different lighting and shadows if you are trying to put a full person and plonk them in with say 2 others it may look a bit odd.

I just know someone who runs a photographic business full time (has done for at least 18 years now) BUT according to them didn't qualify as a professional photographer!

Is AIPP the one where you have to send in the application and prove that you are a professional photographer according to them and be recommended by two members as well? Or is that a different one?

I actually found that the 10D screen while small was the most accurate on focus - on teh 40D the screen is bigger but unless its really out of focus I cant tell til I get home and put them onto the computer. Found the batteries for the 350D were also far better than the ones I'd been using for the 10D they last for ages (my best current battery is the one I bought for the bigger cameras not one that came with either of them). I've only been using the 350D for the odd handful of photos in the house at the moment but the battery in it hasnt been charged for months - though I think its starting to show 'low battery' now. As for noise (as in the actual sound it makes) the 40D is incredibly loud far louder than the 10D or the 350D - when I take a group of pics it sounds like that Duran Duran song intro. I think the noise (as in picture quality in low light situations where you can't use flash) is being worked on for all models as they improve the technology as 18 months ago I had problemswith both cameras taking photos at the harness racing or other lowlight situations. Those with the next model up at the time didnt have the same problem appearing.

It was a general post ripley - was aimed at some on here who are only learning with the DSLRs but are starting to say 'but I must get the higher end one'. Its like buying photoshop when you only really need the stuff in photoshop elements. Just startng to see a lot of 'oh dont bother with the consumer cameras just buy the prosumer ones or higher'. The 400D are being advertised arond here for just over $1000 - think its a lens kit too so perfect for anyone wanting to buy their first DSLR. The camera stores are trying to clear stock and so its a perfect time for shoppers yet you get the feeling here that they shouldnt bother as they arent as good as the far more expensive ones. Obviously they have less functions but still damn good cameras.

Wow - you guys really dont need the 40D if you are not doing full on professional work and are still learning how to work a digital SLR. Once you know how everything works on the 350, 400, 450 etc then think about going to the prosumer cameras. Otherwise it is very easy to become confused over all the different settings. I keep being told all the extra wonderful things this caemra can do and I use it every single week (I must read more of the book I guess). The 350, 400 etc series is a more basic camera eg you take less frames per seconds, simpler settings but they are still damn good cameras. And if you are only using the sports modes, auto modes, etc they will take the pics you want with ease. Until I got the 40D the 350D was my second camera with the smaller lens and that meant snapping away almost immediately for after race shots. Now that job is done by the 10D though there is little between them as the 'second' camera - the 10D has better focus sensors (bigger?) and is more sturdy. Would definately agree if you have that series save the money and buy thebest lenses you can and these make a HUGE difference to the photos. I have two similar lenses the camera loves one more than the other and now Im told thats becuase the better but older lens was originally constructed as a top line lens whereas the other was a lower level lens. IT makes sense and while you can see the difference if you know what to look for I find I can feel the difference when taking the photo - the camera is faster with teh better lens. I love my 40D but for static/posed shots you get way more of the same shot - more than most people would need unless you are taking professional pics and then the more the better even if the pics look the same.

Bought the CS2 upgrade and that was a nightmare having to track down the correct number from the previous version. Hopefully next upgrade they ask for the number on CS2 CD not the earlier one as no idea where I put that number (the earlier one)

Exactly chezzy - some comps (rare ones) say only using image for promotion of said comp (these usually seem to charge a fee to enter) but so many bascially take the rights to the photo. Think I've only ever entered two photo comps and they were local and to promote an event or place not a 'photographer comp' as such.

Again it depends what sort of photos when it comes to magazines. Alot of them are very arty and someare like Aust Photography which I bought for a while but got sick of their anti digital tirade and they made sports photography sound so very difficult. Most of it was landscapes etc - very useful info if you want to learn about that type of photography However the reader photo assessments are interesting and they did start running theme comps each month just before I stopped buying it. Might be worth flicking through the magazines at the newsagent and seeing what you find interesting or have the tips you are looking for.

Well said chezzy - the burst mode is of extreme importance in horse sports. The more the better in some cases. And photography is about what you can get out of your camera isnt it not what you can do on a computer - or at least maybe Im from the 'old school' and am sticking with it! The computer is a tool to enhance but should not 'make' the image. As I said that racing one was as it was taken except for a little cropping. With film photos unless you had the facilities to print your own images (and not many did have colour printers) you had to rely on the colour changes that the printing machine operator made to the images. They use to colour correct, lighten and darken but the customer collecting the photos would not know unless they asked. All but one of the other professional horse racing and equestrian photographers I know of take photos using jpegs. Its suits sports photography especially something like horse racing where the faster the camera the better. I know that the 60 odd burst will be perfect for the victory gallops at the AIHT after the poor 10 D was on the verge of meltdown. They do two laps less than a minute and the 10D would do it but you would be waiting those precious seconds for it to write and clear the buffer. With the huge buffer in the 40D it will be much easier. Being able to reel off a heap of shots helps with the yearlings too - yesterday there was one who wouldn't stand was fidgeting etc and once right then its to get the ears and eyes and tail right. Being living animals they blink they swish tails yet amongst the short bursts got every one eventually with the fidgeting one coming out perfectly in the end. Would hate to be waiting for the camera to write RAW when trying to take those pics. yearling image

I'll take over 300 photos that are 'keepers' at the races each week - I think I'll stick with the large jpegs thanks. The camera in jpeg mode takes the photos I program into the settings not the manufacturer (digitals and film cameras are what you make them and they general take pretty damn good photos in jpeg as long as you get the settings right). Perhaps RAW is suited more to portrait photographers rather than sports action. If this image links works - this was taken as a jpeg and only cropped that was it.

Wow if I had to 'post process'every single photo I think I'd go mad!!! Actually taking the image correctly in teh first place in large jpeg wins for me (every time I read how you dont need to get anything right by the sounds of it in RAW - just post process - thats an awful lot of work on teh computer??). The whole idea of photography is to take the photo using the correct settings in the first place isn't it? Photoshop simply give you the tools that they use to use to print a photo (the vignetting, the sepia tone, the cropping, etc) plus more for those who are into the arty effects. You tweak an image not totally redo it.