rubiton

To those that 'control' using various things - why dont you just use the manual settings? You are pretty much there trying to stop or encourage various shutter speeds or apertures anyway and then you know what the camera will take the shots on. The above image was taken on ISO 400, F8 1/1000th second and the focus was manual on the jump as well. But even at 1000th it didn't freeze his tail! I would not sacrifice speed in any sports - in low light I go to 5.6 aperture then will try 800 ISO and finally then start to lower the speed. This image was on 800 ISO, f 5.6 or F4 and I think 1/500th due to it being at night (and had to be lightened a touch in photoshop). It was also taken with the 350D as the 10D was doing weird stuff in low light conditions. And this shot ws taken in near darkness for an afternoon and was on 1000 ISO (wasnt sure about grain but it was that or worthless image) and either F4 or 5.6 plus I think 350 or 500th shutter speed (it also had the highlight tool slightly used from photoshop) - I was mighty impressed with the 40D being able to get this result on the day

ISO is the same as the old ASA film speed(sometimes when you find film it may be in a red and yellow packet - 100 ASA, pink and yellow 200 Asa and blue and yellow 400 ASA). Point and shoot cameras are generally set on 100 ISO (same as ASA) and take photos at 1/125th of a second however with DSLRs you can set the ISO on 400 ISO and know that you can take fast action shots on settings such as 1/1000th of a second without the picture being under exposed. Dont be scared to go even up to 800 ISO if the light starts to get dull as long as the photo is CORRECTLY exposed it will not have noticable noise (if the photo is under exposed then you will see noise). However this was the same in film just that no ones remembers it these days!! On many 'photography' sites they will insist to keep to 100 ISO or 200 ISO at the most but that actaully restricts teh performance of the DSLR and those cameras can do so much when given the chance (basically if you want to take snap shots on 1/125th and ISO 100 why get anything but a point and shoot). Be adventurous and change all the settings onmanual and see howyou go - the light meter in the view finder will indicate if you have the exposure right (ensure the light is in the middle by changing around the aperture, speed and ISO - even zooming out in low light can help get the exposure correct). ETA - I tried the demo thingy and its good to show how the settings work but gets a little silly with the grain at 400 ISO on the 'high illumination' level so try it on your own camera dont take the results for granted to not use higher ISOs.

For action shots you want to be able to put it on 1/1000th or higher and then set an aperture to suit (and have ISO on 400). That way you freeze the action rther than get movement blur. So I guess that would be shutter priority??? Can't remember I use Manual and for sunny days the setting is 1/1000th, F8 and ISO 400 and then change aperture as needed to keep the marker in the middle while pointing lens at the grass (if you have sky it will get the wrong light reading and generally dont have a horse standing there waiting for camera to be setup). In Canons also for moving subjects you need to have the focus on AI Servo for moving objects.

Check where you are planning to take them (most places mention it on the websites) and find out what file types they take. Oh and a small snippet - dont use a massive massive file for a small say 10x15cm print. Too many pixels can affect the result as well as too few (tried it a while bck when scanning negs in and getting prints using a tiff file converted into jpeg and comparing the huge one compared a one that had been made smaller - the smaller one actually turnwed out better in the small size - was quite surprised by that).

technically sounds like the photographer had the sun behind them and therefore had the dogs nicely lit HOWEVER dogs squint when they are looking into the sun (like humans)- you can fix that by getting them on a slightly different angle or at least looking a slightly different angle , making sure they are alooking level not up (am assumign photographer is down at dog eye level). Guess you could even put them up on something (eg a big rock if you are at a public park with rocks) and have them look slightly downwards. You can also try different things like putting them in the shade or having them backlit (thinkthe former woudl work better) and using a flash outside - works with black dogs pretty well. Jpeg doesn't make a difference unless you want a mega sized print as long as the camera settings are all correct for the hoto you are trying to create - I had a print and a canvas print done in 16 x 24 inch size from jpegs in the last few weeks and there was no problem with the quality.

I would have to wonder why the dog tags/collar were not removed before the photos were taken however anything given to the client should have been in focus. The dollars are for someone expertise in taking the photo and gettin git as right as possible on the day not for what can be done to fix mistakes on the computer. And yes when booked to take photos you hope like anything that its a nice sunny day wihtout it being too hot and not windy.

The battery usage on teh sLR cameras depends on what you are taking, how much you use the view on the back how much you depend on the continuous shooting, etc. Recently was very impressed that I got about a month out of one battery (ie 5 race metings and all day at a showjumping event) - they dont usually last that long but then I haven't been scrolling trough the images on the camera as much lately.

Cant see a problem saving some money and going for the 1000D - a couple of people on here have them and hvae been happy with them. You don't have to get anexpensive model unless you know exactly what the extra features do AND will use them now (not at some stage in the future when you feel you will know the basics as by then youd be upgrading to a new camera anyway if you are still mega keen). There are various offers around for the cameras with twin lens kits to get you started and as your skill level grows then you know what phtography yo prefer and what lenses you would need for that photography (eg sports photos need a different tecnique and lenses from landscape phtography).

I have one ind of but its in a calendar I had made of severl photos. At work I have the tearsheet of a magazine cover my photo was used for and a home printed version of same photo.

Personally I'd do research on anything that I may want in the near future on the prices here and then if you do happen to come across a bargin over there then buy it.

If you learn to get the exposure right (and you can make some adjustments in photoshop etc) when takig the photo then jpegs are fine. You'll go crazy if you try to take heaps and heaps on RAW as it will just fill up card space and then computer space and really as long as the conditions are nice and sunny you shouldnt need to make massive adjustments on the computer anyway. The highest setting on a jpeg will be fine up to very big enlargements so dont worry that you need to take RAW to get huge enlargements done as you dont. However if you have the time to play around and experiment then RAW could be something to try out and see how you go.

If I know Im going somewhere that I will need a flash then I'll take the big flash. However if its a raceday and the horse is in the shadow or connections are in shoadow in a group pic and I suddenly need a flash then I'll use the one on the camera. If Im taking something inside the house that is close with a small lens I'll use the one on the camera. However photos of animals & humans look better with the big flash as its on a different angle and yo uget a lot less 'red eye' as the light is from a different angle. If you are taking pics of say Ebay items the one on the camera is fine. Lens hood - this depends on what the subject is where the light is etc. If taking photos in the late afternoon and you have to look in the direction of the sun for some reason (say for example a late afternoon or evening at glenelg beach) the lens hood will stop the lens flare (when you get a semi circle of light on the image that you didnt see when taking the shot). It also protects the lens if you are outdoors and walking around and its around your neck. I have one on my huge 100-400mm however the other two lenses I have do not have lens hoods. I can't see the expense of paying massive amounts for a piece of plastic when you can shield the sun if need be as long as you look for that reflection.

Exactly what rugerfly said - go and see how they feel as Nikons earlier model were bigger than the Canon equivalent. Some people prefer one size over the other but only you will know when you go to the shopand pick up the actual camera yourself. The brands themselves are as good as each other

Before I startede putting a watermark across the images someone stole some of mine and put them on so called 'first day covers' and they are still tyring to sell them now and again on ebay. And there is nothing you can do as ebay doesnt care about copyright infringement unless its an image stolen from the ebay site. And the seller use to come up with stories about not knowing things on the web are copyrighted, etc now they just say 'they bought them from a fair in SA'. Luckily the horses were not that popular so they dont sell but really if they want pics for envelopes they should get theselves out inthe hot weather or freezing rain and take the damn pics themselves! So unless its on a stock site that has the right click disabled it has a watermark across it - I figure if they spend the hours trying to removed the watermar then they have earnt the small amount they reckon they will get from it. And guess what none of the wtermark ones have turned up on envelopes! (and note people could buy the proper 10x15 print for less than the envelopes are sold for)

I agree with Luke - the Canon 1000D seems great value and the reports on earlier threads are pretty good for it.

Two options - either trust your eyesite or move the focus ring very very gently with the focus set on one spot (or nikon equiv) until it shows up the focus point and beeps. If you have a wide open aperture your depth of field will be very shallow so you only have a small depth area to focus in. Of course this is assuming that you are taking photo of something that has at least a little bit of contrast (eg moon, fire, etc). Otherwise youd have to get someone who has got good night sight to take the photo.

My site - www.barnesphotography.com.au

True and youd be far more game to try the 'goo remover' on a filter and wash off than trying it firstup on an expensive lens. (goo remover is brilliant to get goo off things like scissors - be worth trying ona filter if the filter was to be thrown out anyway). However best to keep sticky labels well away from camera bags!

Ifthe photo is being take of a still objec the one stop is the correct setting. The camera will not beep on AI Servo. ften if its took dark the camera will hunt and try to focus and if it cant it will not take a photo. You can make it take a photo by changing the focus setting on the lens to M and setting the focus manually (just remember to turn it back to Auto or next time you pick up the caemra you'll wonder why the auto focus isnt working).

I have always used hoya - have not had a problem with 'image quality' Remember size of lens & filter makes a diffeence in price my huge len needing a 70mm size cost around $70 but the smaller one was a LOT less.

Thanks for the suggestion re toe/nail. If she isnt fine in the morning she'll be going to the vet. Am beginning to think she may have done something jumping in or out of the car and it only kicked in once she was home as thats when he started to limp slightly

Just wondering what the dog may have done. Was fine this morning - apparently was fine when taken to the park (only wandered around sniffing no running around madly or anything) then came home and went outside. Let back inside had slight limp. Fast forward to this afternoon when I get home and lame dog appears. No heat, no swelling, no reaction to having leg moved pressed etc. ONly found a bit of grass and stuff caked on one toe for some reason - again no obvious soreness on toes. Clean off with salt water and she seems to improve a little a straight after but is now back to lame again (varying degrees of lameness depending of if she needs to get to something but once calmed down still lame). When standing still lame leg is kept about an inch ahead of where it should be for full weight bearing and I reckon not quite straight at the knee but you can put it back where it should be and she will stand there fine. Any ideas?

Arent polarising filters the ones that turn and produce different effects? If so then you only need these very expensive filters if you are looking for the particular visual effect not as protection for your lens. You use UV or skylight filters for that.

You can also get a skylight filter if you are taking photos of animals outside in sunlight. I don't have any problms with the filters affecting the 'quality' of the photos. I have always used HOYA filters.

Like with point and shoot (andvideo) cameras - you get a far more accurate image by looking through the veiwfinder and setting up your photo. And by looking at your camera you are not actually looking straight at the subject which makes it all that much harder to takea photo.