rubiton

When ours was a puppy we started with puppy pre school at the vet then joined a local dog obedience club (annual fee can attend classes once or twice a week) It was indoor puppy classes til clear of vaccinations and then outside classes after that. And our dogs made friends as such with their class mates but they also learnt how to ignore other dogs and listen to the owner. If told leave it when on walks (unless the other dog is reacting) she will walk past but if we stop then she will either meet the other dog or ignore if its not so social. The idea of obedience classes is the dog listens to you with the distraction of other dogs. As for dog day care - I wouldnt since just letting mine out with others and not knowing what was going on. Incidents can happy and like going to dog parks best to try and avoid bad things happening when they are really young in particular.

Always always contact the council and report if you especially felt threatened and the owner then has a go at you. Also if you are confident teach your dogs to stand behind you. NOw our older one is more reactive as he is protecting the younger one I have no issue yelling at owners to control their dogs .

male and female generally works best. Then two males (provided one does not dominate the other) and then two females. There are exceptions to the rules but thats the usual rules

The only issue I had was when they used a courier service who are shockers when stuff has to be signed for so forever onwards I request stuff be sent Aust Post and havent had an issue

Did think about the toe grips for our old dog but never got around the ordering them at the time (they were fairly new then). I did use the dogbooties for when she went to the vet for a while when she was having issues on the floors there (near the end she didnt need them but they made a difference).

Yes for youngs kids puppies get excited and start to mouth with those little pin sharp teeth not to mention those sharp little claws. As mentioned a young 2-3yo rescue dog wuld be a better choice. But make sure you have a two week trial period to make sure

As the OP wants to just know if others support him physically touching the dog or not this advice is for anyone else with a similar problem reading the thread. SOme councils will actually go and talk to dog owners to avoid things escalating to attacks. If in a similar position contact your council and just say that you are worried what would happen if it escalated and perhaps the owner needs someone like the council to simply talk to them and perhaps educate the owner. I have done this when people with little dogs have found it amusing or just assumed it was ok for their aggressive dogs to charge at mine because mine were bigger. Both times and both councils have listened - one there were random people hanging out in the location for a while after Id contacted them and in the other the council actually contacted me some weeks later and said how they had gone to the park and had eventually found the dogs and made suggestions to the owners (not that she believed they listened BUT in the years since the group of little things have been grabbed when Ive gone past with dogs again before they had a chance to charge us). A simply chat to educate saves councils more paperwork and action if things do happen.

Older entire dogs can also get nasty benign growths under and through their tail - benign yes but they ulcerate so the only solution is to have surgery to remove them. Desexing stops the possibility.

I agree with the first comment - try to get her to the puppy obedience classes if possible. Ours were indoor and we learnt the basics and it did put her ahead when we joined the outside puppy classes (after vaccinations were done). They have to learn to work through it instead of just being removed - each week even now at dog obedience we get there early and sit on the seats to wait. She's all excited to start with (pulling like a train when we get there til we sit down) but within a few minutes she calms down and while still excited is learning to sit rather than try to charge and the dogs get to socialise before the class and learn that once its class time its time to concentrate. Yes she still barks at some dogs at the vet but they are puppies - and you cant control what the other dog is doing (at dog obedience to can often see it before it happens when 2 dogs rev each other up instead of sitting while the instructor is talking simply by looking and holding the look then act up if you dont stop it. And the socialisation at obedience classes also helps when meeting dogs out when walking - she's actually better than the older dog

We just used what the breeder advised (Hills) while the vet gave us a sample bag of the Royal Canin equivalent but she did better on the Hills food. It tends to be the food that your puppy does best on not what seems best on paper. A lot of people swear by raw feeding but others its going to be too fatty for and not suit them - I often heard chicken necks were good for dogs but we tried them once and they were left untouched in the yard (and gross to get rid of). SO perhaps start with whatever the puppy is already on and then try your preferred brand of puppy food (puppy food is a different mix than adult food) and see if your puppy goes better or not so.

A few weeks back came across a dog running like someone had left hte gate open. Had a big collar on him that would have fit my dogs but theyd cut the excess off (jack russell type). Anyway another dog walker took him with him (I didnt want him to follow me out on a walk and only option was to head home but we have an older dog and puppy so hard at this time to wrangle a stray so was happy the other bloke had him follow him home). No tags. Anyway other dog walker took him home then took him to local vet - no microchip. So rang council adn turns out he'd clearly crossed a busy road from a neighbouring suburb and must have been heading back that way. Ranger knew who the dog was owned by a couple of 20 something girls who were like 'oh he got out again' and ranger sent them to the blokes place to collect said something of oh might have to fine them next time. Not their first time and seems they hadnt even bother to tag or microchip nor try and fin dwhere he got out (oh he was there and then he'd gone). Nice dog shame about the owners - why would you not put tags at least on the collar let alone microchip. Well at least I know to ring the council if we come across him again....

We use the Hills puppy food - in our case for large breeds as ours is a lab. Never heard of Genisis puppy food

Good luck and found the advice they tend to lose interest once the adult teeth come through at 6 months was correct. Yelping worked for a while then it didn't, No didnt work til much laer when she learnt what that meant, standing up and leaving her in her puppy play pen worked best then go back a few minutes later and its either lick (and stay) or bite again and leave. Different things worked at different stages.

And there you go - it could have been done better (as in trainig the dog to be fine from both sides) but activist edited to get the reaction they got http://www.theverge.com/2017/2/4/14508808/investigation-a-dogs-purpose-video-faked-video

Quite frankly after reading about the absolute hell and anguish someone went through who lost their puppy to parvo this week I think anyone not vaccinating their dogs as per whatever the schedule is 1 or 3 years their vet has is crazy and hopefully not walking their dogs where I walk mine. What a horrific disease and this time of year you panic as for some reason gastro bugs seem common in Jan/Feb (at least for me last three years and three dogs - one older who is now gone and then this year the puppy plus an adult in his prime).

Exactly - activists always edit and then use the videos at a time they think it will cause the most damage - in this case right before the films release. Never straight to the correct authorities and never releasing them when they get them in their original form and usually with some kind of information that leads the viewers to a particular view.

The thing at the end of the movie usually says 'no animals were harmed'. A dog in the water and then gets out of the water after the camera was off is not 'harmed' . But again the dog should be trained to jump in from that spot not just 'lets see how it looks from the other side'.

They do have some good points - the footage was edited to cut off the end so many questioned if the dog was OK. And the fact that it was held until just before the film was released as obviously after filming like it says there are many months between filming and film release. BUT if the dog had been fine from the other side/different angle (and assuming it had been trained from the 'other angle') when it hesitated they should have stopped. The dog should have been trained to jump in from both sides willingly (which according to someone who is a dog trainer has said elsewhere - a confident dog will jump in without a problem) - dont think with the proper training the stunt in itself was that bad as it was controlled conditions - only that the dog was forced in when it clearly wasnt confident. They should have stopped and had the trainer go through the stunt with the dog so it was confident with jumping in and then got the crew to film - yes time is money but so are activist videos going viral going to stop people seeing the movie. Mind you the description of the movie a dogs birth, life death and reincarnated as other breeds - we go through enough hell losing our own pets why would we want to see a movie described like that? Geez movies like Marley and Me & My Dog Skip about dogs in their prime are bad enough when you get near the end anyway.

Id suggest an adult dog - simply as if they've had some training then you arent starting completely from scratch but you can still go to training and learn about how to train dogs. An adult dog may also be easier to get use to a daily routine where it will need to be on its on for a fair chunk of the day (adult dogs should learn - ours get into a routine of active in the morning and then late afternoon you can see it when you are at home that they will sleep the rest of the time. Puppies are a lot more work - you have to teach them EVERYTHING. Toilet training, sleepign habits at night (ie when its time to sleep not play all night), all training, getting through the bitey stages, all the puppy pre school, puppy training classes, vet visits for vaccinations etc.

Our puppy wasnt able to go out until about 17 weeks after her vaccinations so cant comment on 12 weeks BUT our puppy did react to a few things exactly as you describe (shied and tried to go the opposite way). AS we'd been going to puppy training and then outside puppy classes and learning to use food to get them to focus on you I just would stop and get her to come alongside me (and ignore whatever she was concerned about but make sure I was trying to get her close alongside). And then tempt her past it at the same pace with food and praise - no rushing. I dont want her to rush past something scary either. Lawn mowers are her main thing but she's a lot better now than when she first saw and heard them. Cars still watches but will keep walking alongside and not want to stop and face them. There was though the little kid on a little kids bike - that freaked her out as she'd never seen anything like it but as I got her to come back to me not pulling away on the lead the kids family encourage her to go forward so we also got past. Next time she saw a young kid this time on a scooter she just stood and looked didnt try to run. I just go with the theory that if she's worried she just needs to come alongside as she will learn its safe there (as whatever is scary is going to go past or we go past it and we will survive)

Apparently as adults we actually should be vaccinated again as immunity does drop off. I fell over at a horse event and landed on the only rock in the paddock it was only a graze (the reaction I had from the adhesive covering the site was worse than the original graze) but the first aiders and the doctor were like OMG here get a tetanus shot asap (horse manure carries tetanus). And if someone has a baby only adults who have recently been vaccinated should go near it til the kid is vaccinated themselves. OUr vet is every 3 years for vaccinations plus every year for kennel cough but they schedule them to come in every 6 months for a check up anyway and recommending a blood test each year when they get older anyway so I get annoyed with the rubbish about vets using the annual vaccination as an excuse to get you in there.

Agree take your money back and go elsewhere - if they dont want your business there surely is someone else who will. If there are issues with simply obtaining a puppy imagine what would happen if you had to contact them for anything - not worth it. Wow a year I dont think I would have waited that long for someone to eventually breed a puppy - though not knowing your breed dont know how common they are.

Our old dog was still going for walks right up to the day we lost her. The difference between her and the younger one was he (younger one) went for a walk on the lead where I decide while with her we had an area that she basically was walked up and back. She was off lead because I could run faster than she could when she tried to do her old dog bolt. Anyway some days it was a meander so we were back fairly quickly as Id turn her around so we came back other days she'd bound off the full distance of the area (round trip 1200m). SHe was on joint powder, Cartrophan courses, the joint treats from the supermarket and treated with rapigel if she went lame. Theory was the exercise would help strengthen the soft tissue supporting the arthritic joints. In the end she slipped and broke her leg - the kidney disease ultimately ended in weak bones but you'd never have guessed the way she was bouncing around that day. Yes she had weakness in her hind end (but that got a lot worse in her last 6 months afer she possibly had a third but very minor dog stroke) and couldnt stand up when the leg went as the other wasnt strong enough. Exercise probably actually helped her going as long as she did and in the end she could have slipped anywhere at anytime even getting up from the floor in the house could have done it. Some days she was slower than others as mentioned but she also had a massive tumor on her spleen which may have contributed to the days she was slow as they can leak - again walking would have made a difference. I think its just a matter of if they want to go for a walk go but stay close to home and see how the dog recovers after the walk (our old dog she'd often want to play 'chasey' when we got back - if she wanted to we did - regardless of if it was a long or short walk for her).

There was no way our old dog would have ever stopped going for walks you just had to judge which days you went a short distance and which days you went further but she would take off and 'run' on the days she felt good. Other days she was easy to turn around again. She was off the lead as I could out run her and never far from home.

The three year one is slightly different to the annual one. Our old dog use to have a huge reaction to the annual one and when the three year one was available she didnt develop the huge lump - its different. But you still need to have the annual kennel cough one done. Please talk to your vet not online or google in regard to which suits your dog best.