rubiton

When ours was a puppy we started with puppy pre school at the vet then joined a local dog obedience club (annual fee can attend classes once or twice a week) It was indoor puppy classes til clear of vaccinations and then outside classes after that. And our dogs made friends as such with their class mates but they also learnt how to ignore other dogs and listen to the owner. If told leave it when on walks (unless the other dog is reacting) she will walk past but if we stop then she will either meet the other dog or ignore if its not so social. The idea of obedience classes is the dog listens to you with the distraction of other dogs. As for dog day care - I wouldnt since just letting mine out with others and not knowing what was going on. Incidents can happy and like going to dog parks best to try and avoid bad things happening when they are really young in particular.

Always always contact the council and report if you especially felt threatened and the owner then has a go at you. Also if you are confident teach your dogs to stand behind you. NOw our older one is more reactive as he is protecting the younger one I have no issue yelling at owners to control their dogs .

male and female generally works best. Then two males (provided one does not dominate the other) and then two females. There are exceptions to the rules but thats the usual rules

The only issue I had was when they used a courier service who are shockers when stuff has to be signed for so forever onwards I request stuff be sent Aust Post and havent had an issue

Did think about the toe grips for our old dog but never got around the ordering them at the time (they were fairly new then). I did use the dogbooties for when she went to the vet for a while when she was having issues on the floors there (near the end she didnt need them but they made a difference).

Yes for youngs kids puppies get excited and start to mouth with those little pin sharp teeth not to mention those sharp little claws. As mentioned a young 2-3yo rescue dog wuld be a better choice. But make sure you have a two week trial period to make sure

As the OP wants to just know if others support him physically touching the dog or not this advice is for anyone else with a similar problem reading the thread. SOme councils will actually go and talk to dog owners to avoid things escalating to attacks. If in a similar position contact your council and just say that you are worried what would happen if it escalated and perhaps the owner needs someone like the council to simply talk to them and perhaps educate the owner. I have done this when people with little dogs have found it amusing or just assumed it was ok for their aggressive dogs to charge at mine because mine were bigger. Both times and both councils have listened - one there were random people hanging out in the location for a while after Id contacted them and in the other the council actually contacted me some weeks later and said how they had gone to the park and had eventually found the dogs and made suggestions to the owners (not that she believed they listened BUT in the years since the group of little things have been grabbed when Ive gone past with dogs again before they had a chance to charge us). A simply chat to educate saves councils more paperwork and action if things do happen.

Older entire dogs can also get nasty benign growths under and through their tail - benign yes but they ulcerate so the only solution is to have surgery to remove them. Desexing stops the possibility.

I agree with the first comment - try to get her to the puppy obedience classes if possible. Ours were indoor and we learnt the basics and it did put her ahead when we joined the outside puppy classes (after vaccinations were done). They have to learn to work through it instead of just being removed - each week even now at dog obedience we get there early and sit on the seats to wait. She's all excited to start with (pulling like a train when we get there til we sit down) but within a few minutes she calms down and while still excited is learning to sit rather than try to charge and the dogs get to socialise before the class and learn that once its class time its time to concentrate. Yes she still barks at some dogs at the vet but they are puppies - and you cant control what the other dog is doing (at dog obedience to can often see it before it happens when 2 dogs rev each other up instead of sitting while the instructor is talking simply by looking and holding the look then act up if you dont stop it. And the socialisation at obedience classes also helps when meeting dogs out when walking - she's actually better than the older dog

We just used what the breeder advised (Hills) while the vet gave us a sample bag of the Royal Canin equivalent but she did better on the Hills food. It tends to be the food that your puppy does best on not what seems best on paper. A lot of people swear by raw feeding but others its going to be too fatty for and not suit them - I often heard chicken necks were good for dogs but we tried them once and they were left untouched in the yard (and gross to get rid of). SO perhaps start with whatever the puppy is already on and then try your preferred brand of puppy food (puppy food is a different mix than adult food) and see if your puppy goes better or not so.

A few weeks back came across a dog running like someone had left hte gate open. Had a big collar on him that would have fit my dogs but theyd cut the excess off (jack russell type). Anyway another dog walker took him with him (I didnt want him to follow me out on a walk and only option was to head home but we have an older dog and puppy so hard at this time to wrangle a stray so was happy the other bloke had him follow him home). No tags. Anyway other dog walker took him home then took him to local vet - no microchip. So rang council adn turns out he'd clearly crossed a busy road from a neighbouring suburb and must have been heading back that way. Ranger knew who the dog was owned by a couple of 20 something girls who were like 'oh he got out again' and ranger sent them to the blokes place to collect said something of oh might have to fine them next time. Not their first time and seems they hadnt even bother to tag or microchip nor try and fin dwhere he got out (oh he was there and then he'd gone). Nice dog shame about the owners - why would you not put tags at least on the collar let alone microchip. Well at least I know to ring the council if we come across him again....

We use the Hills puppy food - in our case for large breeds as ours is a lab. Never heard of Genisis puppy food

Good luck and found the advice they tend to lose interest once the adult teeth come through at 6 months was correct. Yelping worked for a while then it didn't, No didnt work til much laer when she learnt what that meant, standing up and leaving her in her puppy play pen worked best then go back a few minutes later and its either lick (and stay) or bite again and leave. Different things worked at different stages.

And there you go - it could have been done better (as in trainig the dog to be fine from both sides) but activist edited to get the reaction they got http://www.theverge.com/2017/2/4/14508808/investigation-a-dogs-purpose-video-faked-video

Quite frankly after reading about the absolute hell and anguish someone went through who lost their puppy to parvo this week I think anyone not vaccinating their dogs as per whatever the schedule is 1 or 3 years their vet has is crazy and hopefully not walking their dogs where I walk mine. What a horrific disease and this time of year you panic as for some reason gastro bugs seem common in Jan/Feb (at least for me last three years and three dogs - one older who is now gone and then this year the puppy plus an adult in his prime).