Staranais

Thanks again, everyone. Will definately look at getting that video, Kelpei-i.

Thanks again, people. If I keep my hands there from the time I leave the dog, to the time I recall and front him, would it still be counted as a double signal? In that case it wouldn't specifically be a recall cue, it would merely be a visual reminder that this is formal not casual. I'd like to see that too. Or else would be grateful for a description?

Thanks, you two. So you both think teach the finish from a short distance away, then gradually increase the distanct till it becomes a proper recall to finish? I especially like this idea, thanks, Lablover. I think it will really help him to have that visual 'body language' signal as well as a verbal one, to signify that this is a formal recall.

Hi folks! I'm after tips for training the formal front. My boy does a great recall, but he tends to just do it to anywhere my general vicinity which obviously will not cut it in competition. I'm thinking that I should train a seperate front, and had a few questions for anyone who has done this. How have you folks taught your doggies to sit straight. Luring with food? shaping with a clicker? target training? Do you have a different command for a formal recall/front as opposed to a casual recall? Do you have a different command for the recall and the front, or just one command for both?

Also, there are lots of dogs not on that list who can be great family pets, depending on the family. Just off the top of my head, how about a: Beagle, Golden Retriever, Boxer, King Charles Spaniel, or a Stafford?

That's a good idea - perhaps the vet could give him a shot of female hormone to settle him down a little? That would have the same effect as being de-sexed, but would not involved the anasthetic. And would be reversible if you didn't like the effects. Bowser and Dogbesotted has a good point also - have you told the vet about the bleeding? Maybe book him an appointment when the bleeding is happening, so the vet can see it and rule out any serious health problems.

Yeah, I was startled at first by her suddenly showing teeth - it was a strange expression, sort of like a snarl without the nose wrinkle. Then her human dad explained what she was trying to do, and I had to smile as well.

I have met a pitbull cross who had actually learned to raise her lip to smile back at people. How's that for smart? It was quite an impressive smile too - lots of nice pearly whites.

Sidoney - thanks for the great post. Lots to think about.

Me too, but my dog has dog-aggression issues and is therefore a special case. On the rare occasions he decides to break a group stay, it's not just to play - it's invariably to fight. So he has learned full well that breaking a formal "stay" command brings the wrath of god down upon him. Might not be PC, but it's something that's necessary for his own safey, and the safety of other dogs in the class.

In theory, yes. In practice, at least at my house,... no. I do the dog training at our house. However, my partner also gives the dog commands, and unforrunately often forgets to formally release him. He just apparently can't remember to do this 100% of the time. So I do use a "stay" (which my partner is forbidden to use!), when I really need the dog to "stay" in the position for more than 30 seconds. It's just what works for us. How bout outside the local vet clinic or pet store? ;)

I think there is a big difference between watching a dog and staring at them. My dog doesn't mind if I look at him - but if I glare or stare at him, he gets very uncomfortable. For him at least, looking is OK but staring is a threat.

Just tell the neighbours that the additional barking is actually their fault, for modifying the fence so that their cat can sit on it and tease your dogs. (Though perhaps say it a bit more politely than that!) If they modify the fence so the cat can't sit on it again, their problem will be solved, no?

Thanks Espinay. I'll keep on with the lamb bones and chicken carcasses as well, I promise.

Thanks Espinay, that's useful. But heart doesn't count as offal, right, since it's muscle tissue? I feed lamb hearts a couple of times a week - they're so convenient, one lamb heart seems to be a good sized Staffy breakfast. Same as one chicken carcass.

Thanks Jeanne and Poodlefan. I'll definately keep on basing his breakfasts on the RMB, chicken carcasses and hearts then. Perhaps start throwing in a few bits of liver & giblets and pork bones for variety in the mornings. And i won't bother with the tripe.

Can I ask the BARF people here a question? Are there any types of meats or offal that you shouldn't over-feed your dog on? My dog regularly chows down on breakfasts of lamb hearts, chicken carcasses and beef RMB (as well as his evening meals of kibble and table scraps...) I want to start including some other types of offal in his breakfast (triple, giblets, kidneys, brains, pork bones) - are all of these OK for dogs? Thanks.

Haha Erny, actually I have bought him some boots online, they should arrive today. They're not fancy leather riding ones though, just nylon ones, hopefully they can double as tramping boots or snow boots for him when he's out bush with me. Apart from that, just keeping him inside on carpet and off the concrete seems to be helping. He still wants to retrieve on 3 legs, so there can't be that much wrong with him! Thanks for the advice, everyone.

If I were in Sydney, I'd travel to see K9force. I have heard nothing but good things from people who have trained with him.

Thanks everyone. I'll try to find the padaid - if they don't sell it in NZ, I'm sure they'll stock something similar. Will also check out the boots. Bellababe, I'm sorry to hear about your poor dog. I hope she heals quickly.

I haven't heard of that - is it like that liquid bandage stuff you can get for people?

My boy's somehow managed to rip a small chunk out of one of his paw pads, and is limping quite badly. Has anyone got a link on how to properly bandage a hind paw? And has anyone got any ideas on how to facilitate healing of this kind of cut? I am trying to keep him off it, but he's an active boy and I obviously can't make him lie down for a week.

I guess it depends how old he is, but from your post he sounds way too young for any kind of correction collar to me. IMO small puppies don't yet have the mental capacity to understand what they're being punished for, so punishing them is both unfair and counter-productive. Those people would be better off training simple foundation obedience at home, using positive methods only (recall, sit, walk on a loose leash). There's plenty of time for proofing and corrections when the pup is older. :D

Oooh, you're clever too, Erny, I never would have thought of using guttering. I think our main problem with the broad jump was that, since he'd never seen one before, he kept slowing down to take a gooood look at it. He seemed quite intrigued by it. Unfortunately approaching it so slowly meant that meant he couldn't quite get up the momentum to actually jump over the thing. It was quite funny to watch, actually. I will try your ideas, though, once I've built it...

Right, weatherboard and duct heating, I'm on to it! Here are some cool links I just found of equipment plans, mostly using PVC piping: http://futuremach.baka.com/equip.html http://www.dog-play.com/agility/agilitye.html I'll hopefully get round to having a bash at the tyre jump this week sometime, so will let you know how I get on...