Erny

RR's (for example) tend to "course" - where they do zoomies and randomly switch directions without pausing. "Lure Coursing" is an activity that many RR owners partake in. If I haven't taken my boy out for a while where he can let loose to do this, he will tend to go a bit spare around our yard, but in a more scatty sort of way. It's just something he 'needs' to do. If I work him in 'drive' (even just with tug) he's a bit less inclined and if he does, it's not with the same degree of 'scatty-ness'.

I'm getting mucked around. Doesn't make it easy that my boy's issues are undiagnosed as to cause and yet gives off quite a variety of symptoms. PetPlan regard each different symptom as a different issue and most of my claims (although there's quite a few) are denied as being "inside excess". And yes - premiums have been shooting up throughout, especially over the last two to three years. I'm now at the point that when I go to the Vet for my boy's ongoing issues, I never really know until I've had the Vet service and paid the bill, whether I'll be covered by insurance or not. In addition, my boy is hypothyroid, yet my claims for the fees for the yearly bloods I have to have drawn to be tested each year are also denied as these are categorised as "maintenance" rather than an on-going condition.

Nothing new or exciting (maybe just my fancy words, lol), but in effect, recognising a dog's drive (eg. chase, catch, bite) and incorporating that into your training. Game of tug (with rules) is generally what I do to use the dog's drive and provide drive satisfaction. If the dog has drive which is not tapped and has no other means of satisfaction for it, it will look for things to do to try to provide that satiation itself. Using that drive and turning it to helping you with your training provides not only satiation of the drive, but also benefits the training side of things, as the dog learns that it's the training skills you've taught which provides an outlet to satisfying the innate instinct it carries for chasing, catching, biting etc.

Ok.

I'm no expert on this, but I would think that shampooing your dog as often as you do (and even once a week is way often, in my books) would leave your dog's coat vulnerable to the affects of UV. You're removing the natural oils from your dog's skin and hair when you shampoo, and I expect that would leave the hair less protected. I bath my dog probably no more than twice a year (admittedly, he's a short coated breed) and even then I only use Calendula Tea for the purpose - no shampoos that would strip the oils.

What do you do in terms of drive satiating motivational work?

There are DOLers who work there and help lots of dogs too. High level mgt and the people on the ground can be very different. Definitely no argument there. The RSPCA rely on this.

There are DOLers who work there and help lots of dogs too. High level mgt and the people on the ground can be very different. Definitely no argument there. The RSPCA rely on this.

There are DOLers who work there and help lots of dogs too. High level mgt and the people on the ground can be very different. Definitely no argument there. The RSPCA rely on this.

If the Vets think there's a chance, then I'd follow that and give every chance possible. Good luck - I haven't had experience with this condition (and hope I never do), but sending you and your dog strong well-wishes and all things crossed for a good outcome.

This.

Thanks for the alert, Perse. I've passed it on to other forums too. It is a worry. And yes .... baits can be transported by animals outside the intended baiting area.

I agree with Steve - I'd stick with straight Calendula Tea. And after applying the Calendula to dog, drink the Vodka yourself.

That's interesting, Burkes. I wonder if that relates to carbohydrate levels (and keeping them down a bit). Just guessing and reflecting on snippets I've read here and there.

I'm not saying to do this, because it has to be your judgement call .... but I can tell you that I went through quite a few different "diets" with my boy as well. He'd go off one, I'd try another. Sometimes I'd have a bit of success (i.e. at least eating, if not enthusiastic) and sometimes I'd think I'd found the answer (i.e. enthusiastic eating, weight gain as a result, symptoms appearing to abate and matters evening out). As it turned out, the closer I got to a diet which was to suit him the best, the longer he would last on it before he'd turn off it and symptoms blew out again. I had run the gauntlet with blood tests and also with the (then new) saliva test via Dr Jean Dodds in USA. The results of that came back leaving me with pretty much no meat protein that my dog would tolerate. My boy had by then turned away from every meat protein source I could think of to try him on (each one by one, and for a term). As a last resort, I had him on Hills Prescription Z/D (cans and dry). He eventually stopped eating the dry, but at least the canned stuff kept him going. But over a period of months, he went off this as well (personally I don't blame him and was surprised he lasted that long). At that point, I simply didn't know what I could feed him. I'd tried the various meats raw and cooked (desperate times call for desperate measures); tried the inclusion of yoghurt and all those otherwise *yummy good things*. No go. And he was skinny ..... AND hungry. He WANTED to eat and was mostly enthusiastic when he knew I was preparing something for him (save for when he was feeling nauseous), but I'd present it, he'd go to eat it, perhaps he'd lick at it ..... and then he'd forlornly walk away from it. That's when I saw something on Augustine's Approved. I really didn't believe it would be any of much difference - he'd been on roo mince before and that had been one of the last diet bases he'd been on before the Z/D when, after about 10 months, he turned off it. But with no other options in front of me, I felt I could do naught else but give it a try. I sourced human grade roo mince, combined it with the AA suggested vegetable ingredients as well as the AA SuperBoost. His gusto for eating like there was no tomorrow returned and for the most part (save for a couple of days in more recent times, when his stomach became uncomfortable again .... but then it righted) has been on this and just as enthusiastically eating for at least 2 years. I never thought I'd be so happy and relieved to have my 'woof it down like a hoover' dog back to that again!! He's not *right* yet and I'm still investigating stuff, but his stools immediately improved and are good, skin outbreak symptoms receded and are far less frequent and severe. I'm still investigating (as aforementioned) but without finding this "diet" regime, I doubt he'd have survived this long.

PuddleDuck - breath. Given the absence of pain, take your time and let the decision you make (whichever one that is) come to you, rather than you chase the decision.

Otitis? Does he have any ear issues? Hope it is something simple and recoverable.

I agree with TSD. Whilst there are troublesome times when it is necessary to provide treatment, sometimes we over-do things and don't allow the system to perform as it properly should. This includes ears and IMO anal glands. My boy has had some anal gland issues and I have had the Vet express them a couple of times, but if I ask him to check them I also ask him NOT to express them unless they HAVE to be - I like them to cleanse themselves whenever possible otherwise the anal glands will over-compensate. Same goes for ears. I treat IF necessary, but give an opportunity for the ears to settle down and resume their own self-cleansing. I don't freak out at the first sign of ear wax. I let it be and keep an eye on it. If it is moving, and my boy is not persistently worried by it, that's great.

Good luck, TessiesTracey. I think the Calendula Tea is much kinder to skin than any medicated based shampoos, creams etc. and worth using. Based on what you've written, I'd be inclined to investigate thyroid levels with your dog. And not via our Aussie laboratories, but via Dr Jean Dodds (USA) testing (HemoPet/HemoLife) because theirs is more thorough and more sensitive. Our Aussie method can show a negative but that doesn't necessarily mean it is negative - it might just mean the thyroid tissue has not destructed to the extent that is needed for our Aussie tests to pick up.

I have just recently used Calendula Tea for my dog's ears. They were mucky (tendency towards dark wax - but been checked for mites etc, which came up negative) and the wax was further down than what I was comfortable trying to reach, and he was shaking his ears more than I liked. In addition, the skin on the lower part of the ear canal was inflamed, yet there seemed no obvious reason for it. I used a make-up removal pad, drenched it (sopping) with the Calendula Tea, squeezed it so the excess ran in, wiped around the ear that I could, rubbed the ear as anyone would when applying ear cleaner, then let him shake. His ears have been considerably better in terms of less ear wax production (and what was there came out of its own accord much easier) and the inflammation has subsided. This is not a veterinary advised 'method' (although my Vet does know what I'm doing) but I have used and trust Calendula Tea for the purposes of anti-bacterial skin soothing in other aspects. This is only to tell you what I've done - I like that it is non-stringent and soothing to the skin. I don't like liquid down ears on a too frequent basis as I don't believe that's what ears were designed for, but to give the ears a bit of extra help when they need it, I have found the couple of times I've used it for this, quite successful.

A tip to help you identify/see the tips of your dog's quicks as you dremmel is to wet the end of the nail - I tend to use a bit of spit if I am not sure. Also, dremmel a little bit and move to the next nail; dremmel a little bit and move to the next nail. Let the dremmel do the work for you - don't press heavily. These last two tips will help avoid the nail bed heating up from the friction. Haven't followed every post in this thread so not sure if this link has been posted : How to Dremmel - DoberDawn I used this as a very good guide when I first used a dremmel on dog nails some 13 years ago, approx. You will begin a bit hesitant - that's normal. But you do get the hang of it and it becomes easier as both yourself and your dog get used to it. Just start very incrementally. I feed my dog treats in between. When I first began, I merely gave a few treats with the dremmel in my hand (switched off). I then turned the dremmel on low and gave treats. Once my dog was ok with both these things (over a couple of sessions) I then simply 'tipped' a nail, and fed a treat. So, I started pretty slowly, allowing my dog's confidence to grow and simultaneously allowing my own confidence to grow. Tie back your hair (if you have long hair) when you use the dremmel.

I'm not saying to anyone to do this - the judgement call has to be with the person. AND a veterinary diagnosis should be obtained first in all circumstances, so you know what you're dealing with. But I've used "Black Salve" with great success on a lesion that was diagnosed a type of skin cancer that was otherwise going to have to have surgery. Now gone. No surgery. (Not on my dog.) For cysts, can a poltice be used? Somewhat different, but my boy throws "boils" in between his toes (a symptom of digestive issues, building up to the body needing to remove toxins the liver isn't totally dealing with). As a standard approach, antibiotics would be used, but these don't bode well with my boy's symptoms (and I do like to avoid use of antibiotics where possible and feasible regardless) so I used a poltice. I use something else when I see boils appearing/coming to a head (Lugol's Solution) and this works great, but there was one in particular that must have been deep seated and wasn't showing as usual. X-rays to make sure the immense swelling and pain wasn't from a broken toe showed clear and it was determined as a boil. Poltice applied; relief was noticeable inside 24 hours. Walking on foot (with limp) and swelling greatly reduced inside that time period. Two more days after the first, and swelling gone; full weight bearing. As I said - could be irrelevant or not feasible in your instance, but some food for thought and research. ETA: In the earlier days, when symptoms were rife, I suspected Furunculosis as well, but we (i.e. the Vets and now myself) don't think it is that, even though very similar. ETA: Noushie - have you investigated diet? Diet change and appropriate supporting supplements with my boy GREATLY reduced symptoms in terms of both frequency and also aggressiveness. Any time I see my boy lick at his feet, I inspect and apply Lugol's Solution to any area appearing a bit inflamed. I also take particular notice of the nail bed and apply there as well , to stop and prevent infection. I will add that I apply the Lugol's Solution as it was prescribed by a Naturopath following a hair-DNA analysis. It is iodine based - relatively safe, but iodine and thyroid needs to be borne in mind.

If it is only or mainly on one foot perhaps it relates to your dog's gait? Perhaps he is favouring the other side due to even minor discomfort or impediment he might be feeling? Oops .... realised HDW has already raised this as a possibility.

Kicking up the dirt and grass increases the visual and scent signal of the droppings.