Erny

Which would undoubtedly annoy a troll

I haven't seen or heard from Lyssa on this thread. Has she been back? .... I'm just wondering if this was an attempt to get us inflamed. Or maybe because I've seen a few t@#ls lately that I'm a bit too suspicious. ?? Sorry, Lyssa, if you're genuine about your enquiry. ETA: If the OP wasn't genuine, doesn't matter anyway, 'cause spoiling dogs into aggression is too commonplace for my liking and this thread can at least serve to be educational for anyone else reading.

It is reported, I'm afraid, that Maltese Shitzu dogs are in the "Top 10" of the list for dogs that have been abandoned to shelters as a result of aggression. IMO, it's because these small cute dogs are treated as small and cute, but not as dogs. And it sounds like this is what's happening with yours. It also sounds like you know this. You will actually be doing your dog a favour if you turn the tables and become yourselves leaders, rather than dumping that responsibility onto the dog. You can still love your dog just as much as you do now, but you need to show that love in a different way ... a way that your dog will appreciate even more. I agree with the other posters who recommend you obtain professional guidence for this purpose. Aggression is aversive to dogs .... they don't like feeling that way. I mean, imagine .... would you like to be feeling angry for the majority of your life? It's just that, with the things we sometimes do (and don't realise what they mean to our dogs), it puts your dog in a zone which says "you have to look after not only yourself, but us as well". That's a pretty stressful position for a little Maltese to have to carry. :D So ... I ask you - is the dog just for you, or is the dog meant to play a harmonic and happy role within the family unit as a whole? When you obtain the professional assistance you need and follow the things suggested to you, I expect you'll find your little Maltese becoming a relaxed little fella who will still readily enjoy games and play and still bear a wonderful little personality .... it just won't be an angry one. And I don't think that's a sad thing.

I agree ... IMO you're better off going to an on-leash park, where the environment is, at least partly, controlled. I can understand your instructor's thoughts about allowing him off leash at the park all the time ... so he really hasn't learnt self control in the presence of other dogs and therein your problem lies. When he puts pressure on the lead, try not only stopping, but turn and walk completely the other way. Not only does he not get what he wants, but he achieves the opposite - he is taken away from what he wants. As he "comes through" (if you know what I mean) and the leash becomes loose, praise him/reward him. Turn again (sharp turns, not curves) and head back. Repeat and repeat and repeat and repeat. Allow him to keep heading towards what he wants PROVIDED he hasn't pulled on the lead. This is the difference between walking him on the harness, which is your "management" tool, and actually training him to exhibit leash manners. Time and patience, wagsalot!

IMO, a handler learns more about dog training when their dog misbehaves, albeit that the learning might be a bit more difficult/awkward. Let us know how you go at Steve's lesson.

Yep ... I think it's silly, too ... not to mention very unfortunate. Errrrrmmmm (cough) ..... of course we all follow the law!!!! People put bandana's on the dog's necks as a fashion statement .... didn't you know?

Unfortunately, Amhailte, pinch collars have been banned for use in Victoria

A "Halti" is a brand of head collar. A google search for "Halti" will take you to their website. "Gentle Leader" is another brand and style and "Black Dog Wear" have one as well and there are others. If you require one, they're more a management tool than a training tool, IMO, but you should research on them to make sure you use them properly. Like any equipment, it shouldn't be a case of just put it on the animal and off you go. There are specific handling skills required for proper use, as well as an awareness of the advantages and disadvantages and possible injuries in their mis-use. And, before I get flamed, I mean this of any equipment we use on our animals . ETA: A google search on each of the brands should take you to some pictures.

Nat .... food for thought - pay real close attention to your body language differences in the "distance" recall, compared to the "close" recall. Is there any? If so, could this be blocking your dog's drive to come quickly (to a degree)?

My understanding is that the more a shampoo lathers, the more detergent (oil stripping) is in it. Go for the types that are soothing/moisturising and lather less.

IMO, any learning is a good thing if the stuff is taught right .... doesn't matter if it's basic or intense if the use of that knowledge is suitable for your application. Go for it, and let us have your feedback. Hope you enjoy.

I use the Vets All Natural Omega Blend. Find it great, but admit, haven't used much of the others to give it a proper comparison. I use the Omega Blend in conjunction with the Vets All Natural complete mix .... which I also find brilliant (as have most of the numerous people I've recommended it to).

Sorry ..... only reaction (touch wood) my girl's had has been a lump, which went down after a few days. Could be wrong, but my knee jerk reaction would be to consult another Vet about vaccinations before re-vaccinating again, seeing as the present one can't give any feedback on the symptom. I trust your acquaintence/friend's dog will be ok .... this time around? Hope so.

I've heard of it, Wagsalot, but don't know anything about it. Only thing I was told was that it would be a "fairly basic course compared with what I've already done" (which was NDTF dtcc course; NDTF behaviourist course; NDTF scent detection course). However, I was told that by a girlfriend who is non-dog savvy, so couldn't say if her statement was correct or founded. At least this post will "bump" your thread topic, so it might produce some response from here.

Myszka .... :cool: Some people just get you, don't they ... "WHY .....". Why can't they take your word for it first, call their dog/s back and THEN ask why? (need scratches head emoticon here!) I agree with you too, Myszka .... there are some dogs (for whatever reasons) that can't/won't/don't get on with all, or many, or any other dogs. The main thing is that we put ourselves in a position where we can control it and act responsibly and with forethought. It's such a pity that others (such as the "WHY" woman) don't think with the speed necessitated by the ownership of animals. (I'm tired .... I hope this makes sense.)

Melisski - part of this is about working Diesel at his threshold, his critical distance. In otherwords, the distance where he just orientates, but one step closer and he'd react. The other part of this is about getting his focus, doing little recalls, using his motivator to distract him and play with him, while working at that critical distance. You say it's annoying when the corgi's are late .... you should be far enough away so that Diesel doesn't react. He might orientate on them, but because you haven't crossed that "threshold" distance, you should be able to distract him back to you, and that's when you give him good things (play, reward etc.). Make it so he learns he gets a "release" of tension by focusing on you, rather than by aggressing to the other dogs. Ask people in the class to give you space so you can properly work on Diesel's issues, or, better, ask the instructor to announce this requirement to the class. Each time he gets to aggress to other dogs, that behaviour is becoming learnt and more and more ingrained. Teaching over the internet is not the way to go, and the above is not the be all and end all of it, but at least it might help you in the start that you're making. Always work for improvement, even if it's only a little improvement each time. Don't push too far too fast, although it's sometimes tempting to do so, especially when we're having a "good day". If Diesel doesn't react, don't go in closer in that session ... be happy to go home with him not having reacted. Slow and steady wins the race, as they say. Having someone who really understands aggression and knows how to appropriately and properly train away from it would be the best thing for you both, but in the meantime, it sounds like you're doing your utmost to help Diesel. Good luck to you both.

Reading this thread - interesting. But, eeeeewwwwwwwwwww, yuck! Think I'll keep buying my dog's meat from the wholesale butcher - look's nothing like the real thing by the time I get it!!!

My emphasis (in bold) on the word "consistently" in the above quote ...... aaahhhhh, 'tis music to a trainer/behaviourist's ear Some people just don't realise they cannot only MAKE a pup by instructing in its early training/socialisation, but they can BREAK them as well. Glad your pup is getting over it. Keep up the socialisation (to unfamiliar dogs/pups, unfamiliar people and all other worldly things such as noises, different surfaces etc - all the stuff he'll come in contact with during his lifetime).

:p I teach .... I guess I've learnt to put a 'human' analogy to some things to get the gist understood. Works for the students - helps them remember things ~ but I tend to lose the more dog savvy kind! Must admit my imagination went souring when I got onto the "catching a plane and going on an overseas holiday" bit ..... pipe dreaming I'm afraid ... Glad you enjoying, K-9 Nutter ... please feel free to join in anytime ..

DOLers will really start to believe I AM pm'ing you and getting you to post for me! Thanks Amhailte ... yes, you delivered a good explanation. As mentioned a couple of posts earlier or so, the problem with posting messages is that one person can put more emphasis or a different meaning into another person's words. PGM .... Imagine if I was under pressure to get somewhere really fast ... for example, the airport - assume I was running late and if I missed my plane I blew my overseas trip. Imagine also my thought process if I knew I'd lose my licence if I got caught speeding and that getting caught was a good probability - assume I need my licence for employment purposes and that I'd be losing my job if I lost my licence. The "threat" (or "possibility", as Amhailte so appropriately worded it) of the latter would be negative reinforcement - that's what stopped me from speeding. But the fact that the "threat" of the punishment (ie negative reinforcement) is there, doesn't make me dislike driving because I know how to avoid the punisher (ie loss of license). And I made my plane anyway (release & positive reinforcement). I wish this story were true .... :p

I've pondered on this on more than one occasion. In my mind: The threat of the punisher becomes negative reinforcement. IE The threat the dog feels is removed because it didn't do the wrong thing. Similar to when we're driving on the roads. The threat of a speed fine is a negative reinforcement. The threat is removed when we've returned home and haven't sped (so we know we don't get the fine). If the punisher is given because the dog didn't heel, then (as you'd be aware) it's positive punishment. (Amhailte ..... where are you????? Wanna re-word this????)

Was being serious, Amhailte. When you write your explanations, they just come out so beautifully arranged that you can't possibly help but understand them. Think I'll send my posts to you by PM and just get you to edit/re-write them before they get put up here! ;) Now, I mentioned your writing being spot on ...... but I think you better go get a serviette and a flannel and wipe the coffee off the puter!

Aaaaahhhh, Amhailte .... once again your poetic written explanations shine ..

Thank you. Sorry for my misunderstanding your original intent. I totally agree with you here. :D