Erny

Whether the dog is closer to the road or not depends on which way you're travelling down the footpath. Going up one way, the dog might be closest to the road. Coming back, he'll be furtherest away. Unless, of course, you train your dog to heel left and heel right. Or unless you cross the road and walk back on the other side! I actually like the formality of heel being (universally) to one side (eg. left). If most people have that as a 'given', when you're walking one way and another is walking towards you, the dogs are less likely to 'meet' head on (ie there's the gap created by one person). Get what I mean? Ok. Not always a fail safe, but it's often the way I find it. (I find most people know the 'walk on the left' "rule". Far less people understand canine communication - how dogs approach each other and what constitutes a threat.)

Hi Kelpie-i. That's my grumble too ... equipment that comes with no explanation, only a label. Not suggesting they should include a "how to use it" explanation, as that in itself can be open to interpretation and therefore dangerous, but some statement to suggest that the purchaser is advised to seek advice as to the correct manner of its use would be helpful. I particularly hate check chains being labeled "choker" chains, as this implies to the unsuspecting that's how they are supposed to work ... by choking the dog. And the collars with plastic clips should come with a label suggesting they are not suitable/safe for training or restraining applications.

Sorry to tell you, but it seems your "signature" is still like my posts ...... lengthy!

Off topic .... HR! Love your 'signature' ! Dogs look gorgeous. Stimpy's photo is just toooo cute. (Even if I do have to slide from side to side to read your posts! )

Halti's, in my experience, are easier for the dog to slip out of ... it depends alot on the size (length) of the dog's muzzle. In addition, the strap crossing the back of the neck, even once adjusted, has a tendancy to slip. For this reason, the manufacturers recommend that, once the neck strap has been properly adjusted, to put a stitch through the neck strap. Having said that, however, I've worked with some dogs who's size and shape of head and nose are not suitable to, say, a Gentle Leader. As to which headcollar is the right one IMO depends on the dog. IE The size and shape of its head; the length of it's muzzle; and, if problematic behaviour is the reason for its use, what that problematic behaviour is.

Hi Zisfamily. This has been discussed here on DOL. To help, here's the link. Thomson Education Obedience Trainer Course

Thanks Denis. Will 'pop' in to your chat site to visit.

K9 ... I think Ciara wants a collar for her dog .... not a fence! :p

You can get leather collars, with buckles, for toy dogs. I know Australian Dog Training sell them (to non-members too), but you should be able to get them through reputable pet stores too. ADT also stock good quality leads and long lines. Sometimes it's difficult, I know, with tiny dogs, because the length of the lead in itself adds weight. Alot depends on your dog's sensitivity to the lead (some little dogs are full on and act like it's not there!). Maybe ask them about their long lines as well and see if they have something suitable.

Me thinks this is the subject of a different thread (and there are plenty here on DOL where this has already been discussed) but, like any tool, check chains need to be used properly. When used as they should be, they can, and do, work well and can be a good communicative piece of equipment. I've used them on heaps of dogs very successfully. I agree ... IMO and in my experience, plastic clip collars are only good for holding your dog's ID tags on. Makes me wonder (and worry) though, that head collars are made with plastic clips. Given that many people purchase and use headcollars to control boisterous and/or out of control dogs, I'm not keen that the whole thing relies on the plastic clip. I have heard also of the metal ring to which the lead attaches on the head collar, snapping. (Not sure which headcollar brand.) From what I can gather, you can get headcollars with buckle attachments, rather than plastic clip attachments, but I think these are from overseas ... I've never seen them sold here.

K9 ..

Hi Denis. Yep, except we don't usually attach the word "Doctor" to his surname. We usually use other descriptive styles! So the UK are "gagged" in so far as e-collars are concerned? And 'discussion' is supposed to be the way to learn. Makes you feel like some people are concerned of populas education for fear of not getting their own way. A bit cowardice, IMO. Is the use of e-collars in the UK unrestricted? Or do some places allow only restricted use, as here in Victoria AUS? :p Did Hugely Worthless also manage a ban on prong collars in UK, as he did here in Victoria?

Yep ... unfortunately this is too common. Some people I know of had their dog tied up (on a check chain) outside the caravan they were staying in for the weekend. They heard some noises, but just thought the dog was growl/playing/mucking around with something. When they did eventually emerge from the van, their dog had died. Too sad. This can also happen just as easily when the dog is in the car with a check chain on. Only needs to catch the ring on something projecting out (eg. window winder) and they're in trouble.

Good on you, Melisski Yes - please do tell how goes. Make your goal to strengthen those drop stays and use the reliability even in the face of the Corgi! All the best.

I think meaning the generalisation that people have. Eg. NO dogs under certain ages should wear this, or that ... I agree with HR. Too much assumption. Every breed and every individual is exactly that ... an individual, and needs to be worked with on its own merit. Correct me if my interpretation is wrong, HR.

Ok - new thread started in this forum. "Poor quality and inappropriate equipment". Please put your posts there, as others might get the opportunity to learn by the mistakes of others. You too, Chelsea's Mum .... yours is a good example too.

As a result of a discussion in another thread, thought I'd start up this new one for people to post in about bad experiences they've had as a result of the use of inappropriate and poor quality equipment on our dogs. Here's one of mine (as posted in other thread): "On behalf of a client, who lost control of his young doberman dog, I sliced the tip of one of my fingers off grabbing at his poor quality leash whilst trying to stop his dog from racing through the gates onto the road. I'm glad I managed, but it should've been the owner, not me ....."

Unfortunately, a typical human assumption is that "it won't happen to me". Hhhmm, makes me think of a good reason for a new thread - bad experiences from the use of inappropriate and poor quality equipment. Can I copy your post into it, K9? Or, better still, would you? (It'd come up with your avitar then.) Sorry for your colleague .

They'll probably think ..... "aaahhhh, now there goes a proper dog trainer!"

Hear you, Melisski. Compromising, but what about keeping yours on leash (use a long line in your drop stays)? At least if your dog breaks his stay (under whatever distraction) you're in a position to correct and control. Your dog won't be self-reinforced by reaching his goal (in this case, chasing after the other dog) either.

On behalf of a client, who lost control of his young doberman dog, I sliced the tip of one of my fingers off grabbing at his poor quality leash whilst trying to stop his dog from racing through the gates onto the road. I'm glad I managed, but it should've been the owner, not me .....

Given your dog's issues, would it be better if you were within a class that was not off-leash, at least until the issues could be better dealt with in a more controlled fashion? Just a suggestion ... would your club work with you on this?

Thank you, K9. Will look to invest in one .... great idea!

Steve: Interesting suggestion. I've always worked on the basis of a loose leash (a short one, where necessary, but a loose one) so as not to suggest to the dog (the one we're handling) that there is anything to be concerned about, or, if the dog's already concerned, so as not to contribute and escalate that concern. Hence I'm pondering on the method you described. Is this to be read as if in a scenario where the dog your handling is, due to its level of aggression, already in a very heightened state and therefore not likely to allow a loose leash to enter the equation? I'm thinking out loud, so apologies if my query doesn't read very well. Yes ... and usually in an escalating fashion I think that if the exhibition of fear is catagorised in the minds of handlers/owners as "fear aggression", many more people would begin to take appropriate action to alter the dog's beliefs VERY early and actual outward signs of aggression ever being exhibited (and learnt) could be better avoided.

I was unaware of "radio scanners" .... pardon my ignorance, but are they specially designed for this purpose? Where do you get them from? Sounds like a good idea.