Erny

Noice :)

I get a bit confused about the answer to this question too, Alkhe. I think it has something to do with the time-frame between stopping and starting the medication as well as WHICH medication you are using. I am sure a better qualified DOLer will be able to answer this one. To the OP : IMO, constant worming regime is unnecessary. I did the puppy worming regime when I got my boy home. He hasn't had a wormer since. I have had faecal exams done periodically (here and there) over the last few years and so far, not a sign of worms (he's nearly 4yo now). If I lived in a more rural area where other animal faeces was plentiful and easily accessible, and IF my dog was inclined to want to eat it, then I'd probably re-enquire with my Vet as to the higher potential for worm infestation, but as it stands, in my personal opinion, I think our city dogs are wormed way in excess of what they need.

I voted for once a week, and for a course to be 6-8 weeks. I think 6 weeks can generally be sufficient, but extending to 8 weeks I think would be helpful. My reasons I guess are based on what I already offer in terms of our other classes, which begin at "Foundation" and which is based in motivational training - hence suitable for young, adult and older dogs alike, and that good instructor/dog-handler ratio allows for some individual assistance. I think once a week because it gives the owners a chance to practice what they've learnt with their pup and for their pup to have half a chance to learn what the owners mean and begin to 'get it'. Also because more than once a week is a bit hard for many people to make the time for. I'd rather those people be getting on with habituating their pups to the world. I think 6 weeks as a course is generally sufficient. The most important things inside a puppy preschool is for the owners to learn about the fundamentals of puppyhood - eg destructive chewing, mouthing, toilet training. Also for them to learn the right and safest ways of habituating their pup to worldly things. And also for them to learn how to teach their pups some 'approach' manners towards other dogs (in this case, other pups). I think the current trend for 4 weeks (and less!!) is insufficient. There's only so much that people can absorb and learn inside one session. A bit of basic obedience and meal-time manners/training to get people started - sure, but let them concentrate on all the other puppy stuff first. Six - Eight weeks gives them time to at least find their feet (I'm talking about the humans) and to have cottoned on to some sort of routine with their pup. Then let them bring their pup to classes that begin to move outside of puppy-dom and enter suitable obedience training for adolescence and upwards. I do agree with the other poster though ..... I find many people think that Puppy Preschool is all that they needed to do. Sorry if I've gone beyond what you needed, Steve. If I have, just put it down to me having a late night chat :D.

No comment either way on other training, however just one thing to muse on for interest sake. I notice a good number of people submitting that they let their dogs on furniture, do what they want, etc. etc. and don't have any problems with their dogs, as though that is supposed to be testament to those things holding no value towards dogs' relationships with their owners. IMO, that is NOT evidence that these things do or don't have a bearing on some dogs. I'm not talking in terms of height domination and so on ..... but I am talking in terms of providing dogs with structure, boundaries. I can attest to my own dog working to push my buttons harder when I let him up on the couch with me for a few nights in a row. I noticed improved behaviour when I didn't invite him for a while. This combined with a couple of developmental periods and I find that it is effecting him less and less as he matures. But the point is - it DOES have a bearing. Take it whichever way you want - I don't think of it in terms of "the highest ground" and so forth, but, depending on the dog, I do think of such things in terms of "personal space value" (something I tend to find many animals acutely aware of and harboring value of) and/or, quite simply, some "structure/boundaries". I'm using 'on the couch' as simply one example. Over all, though, many of the dogs I see respond to the introduction of structure by the setting of boundaries that they may not have had or sufficiently clearly recognised. Some other dogs, I see response simply because the owners alter the structure already set. It can bring dogs to attention, so to speak ..... and that can open the door to those same dogs receiving the reward of that attention. Many people talking about "not on bed" or "not on couch" boundaries automatically assume these things ONLY come from wolf pack mentality. Maybe that's where they originated from. Maybe the theory is wrong. However, I have seen results from introducing some of these things to the dog household. Contrary to what I was taught many many years ago, I don't tend to relate it back to the wolf-pack theory, although sometimes talking about dogs as they might be in the wild as an analogy can be helpful in keeping some explanations simple or at least clear and understandable. I tend to relate it to dogs recognising that the owners have rules. It also helps some owners to create structure in a household where structure simply didn't much exist and they didn't know where or how to start. There were things I allowed/did with my previous dog that I couldn't allow with my current boy. Chalk and cheese as far as personality is concerned .... give my current boy an inch and he'll steal a mile. ..... oh, ok - sure, he'll retrieve it back again, but that's not the point (lol). There are also some things I did in bringing up my current dog that I wouldn't suggest others do - because dogs, people and lifestyles are so variable. Please know that I am generalising here and wasn't going to post - but I think people are making a mistake to write some in-home structure off as a waste of time or baloney. Just because your dogs don't have these structures and are ok behaviour-wise doesn't mean it's pointless for other dogs to have those structures applied and to not expect improved behaviour. I think there's more to it than some people are appreciating. But I openly accept that it is not the be-all and end-all to the improvement in behaviour problems. ETA: I'm not responding in defense or against the trainer advice described by the OP. Just taking the opportunity to raise a point that some might enjoy chewing over. To the OP : I agree with one of the earlier posters - if you're not comfortable with the trainer, find someone else. Relating to and with a trainer/behaviourist can make the world of difference :).

Ask your Vet, and do a little ring around to others inside and a bit outside of your locality, and ask if they've had incidence of Lepto brought to them and if so how many and how long ago. This will give you an idea as to whether it is something you need to vaccinate against. I do the same down here in respect to incidence of heart worm - that, and a rough mental check on lowest temperatures inside any 2 week period. I take all of that into account and then I do the weighing up to form or perpetuate a decision.

Just curious - but how does a "tincture" work? Does it balloon, expand and become the thickish gel like consistency that the powder form becomes, after absorbing moisture, this being (as far as I understand) what affords the animal gut protection from irritation ?? I'm interested because I too have a dog with Irritable Bowel (cause still indeterminate) and after reading Cowanbree's success, I've gone back to giving it a go. (Earlier on in my boy's history, it didn't help with what we were dealing with back then, but things have changed - stabilised, even, perhaps, to a degree) and so I thought I'd give it another shot. Mandela's stools had gone really off in the last few weeks and I must admit that inside of 12-24 hours of administering the Slippery Elm powder, his stools vastly improved. I'm not sure how long this will last though - it's always an up and down ride with his condition and symptoms. I don't put additives with his food as he will often walk away from his meal regardless. So I administer them separately and as approximate to his meal as is appropriate. The tincture might be easier to administer?

And if that's what you think, then all likelihood that's what she's telling you. It is a roller-coaster ride for you, though, isn't it? If she seems happy just hangin' around and bein' inside, then that's ok - she's happy, she simply has time spots when she's not. Edited : I hope that doesn't read as blase as I think it could - not meant to.

Go ahead and change the name - to anything you'd like. A name - especially for an animal, is simply an attention command. Of course, the name acquires a certain emotional attachment by us humans over time. So, "name" + yummy treat, name + yummy treat. Repeat this over and over 50 times in a day (but no need to stop at one day) and your new pup will be responding to her name in no time.

Or "opening post" depending on context.

Thank you, Millhouse (and CavNRott). No - the tooth has not been extracted, at this point of time. In my unprofessional and unknowledgeable capacity, I do believe the tooth is important. I don't want to jump too soon towards things that are irreversible, but it does take some reserved restraint and a whole bucket of worry. I have re-visited our Vet for second-time opinion. He agrees I have managed to reduce the size of the gum ulcers and the gums seem considerably less inflamed. I'm steadfastly trying hard to clean up his teeth (which has shown noticeable improvement as well - but I have had trouble getting hold of the straight edge scaler that I think would help a lot) and as a result, even our Vet agrees to just settle back, keep working at it and keep a very close eye before we go the GA, Xray and potential tooth extraction route. If I were dealing with an abscess, would the inflammation be sub-siding?

Thank you. Hopefully won't need it but good to have the info on hand.

(My highlights) Not true. Having an entire dog can go back to reasons of training, development and health. What is the "plethora" of health benefits to a dog for it being desexed? It won't get cancer of the organs removed, but what else?

Will be visiting Ballarat with my dog soon and would like to have two contacts at my finger tips, just in case. A good Vet for normal work hours; and Emergency Vet for outside hours. Would someone who knows mind posting them up so I can log them into my telephone please :). in advance :D.

Mandela gets Coconut Oil daily too. Solid or liquid, doesn't matter. If, for some reason, I want it liquid, all I need to do is pour hot (I boil the kettle and make myself a cuppa at the same time) water in a small dish, tip the hot water out and spoon the coconut oil in, giving it a quick stir. The warmth from bowl is sufficient to melt the coconut oil. Doesn't even have to be boiling water that you warm the dish up with, but just makes melting quicker :). I eat it sometimes too, although I'm not as fond of it as Mandela is.

No way would I sign that petition or anything like it.

You're right - it is a personal choice. But this is mine, if that helps you at all ... If my dog is happy and bright, with a sparkle in his eye telling me he is still enjoying life in between the surgeries, then I'd continue to do what was necessary provided I could afford it. When things get extreme in so far as expenses are concerned - I mean, way beyond what you might or could have thought of as reasonable when you took on a dog, then it is not your fault if you can't afford them and you shouldn't be in a position where you blame yourself for not being able to meet those extreme expenses and how far you go to try to is completely a personal choice. That's what I think. ETA: And I also wish you and your dog the best of luck. Sounds to me like you're one of those owners who are 'up there' on the "great" list :).

Similar problem here. I take some elastoplast - fairly wide stuff. I cut one side of the sticky part off - discard that bit. I stick the other around the end of his tail so that the part that is padded with the yellow cotton strip is at the very tip end. This way, it is an open bandage which allows the air to it. It tends to last quite a good while (several days, generally) with my boy as the sticky bit is VERY sticky. I find this very effective and not overly cumbersome for him. But I'm fortunate in that my boy ignores it and doesn't try to chew it off.

Good stuff, Stormie. It's breaking through .

Apart from the fact that many have a good amount of success with the use of the CT, this (highlighted) is the part I love about it. If use of the CT doesn't show improvement within the first 24-48 hours, I tend to find it's not quite what the dog needs.* Which means you can try it but not waste a lot of money (because it is cheap) and more importantly, not waste a lot of time and energy before you can realise it isn't going to do the job. * Not to suggest you should ditch the idea of its use completely. I'm so glad you found the use of the CT so successful, TCM. I bet your dog is too :D.

Either or both. Depends on how much area needs to be covered and/or how bad it is. I like to give bad skin issues and/or very itchy dogs a good soaking to make sure every crevice is wetted up with the CT. At least for the first go. They can drink it if they want to :). PS : I recently developed an ulcer on my tongue. Went to GP and was prescribed Kenalog. It improved it but didn't fix it. Ulcer flaired, expanded and became painful. I gargled and also drank Calendula Tea. Even after the first night's treatment of the CT, the ulcer had MUCH improved. I've continued with it for 4 nights, saw the GP today and she's proclaimed the ulcer as cured. :D

Amerykus .... there are so many here who understand your grief and feel your pain. .... you did what you could and you gave everything, even the most valuable of gifts being the one where you've set her free. RIP Montana.

HERE is the link to the store that sells it on-line. The person I spoke with there was lovely, and particularly delighted to hear that Calendula was delivering the success that it was in assisting with doggy skin issues, amongst other things. But I deal with Go-Vita Health Food Store in Blackburne Square, Berwick (Victoria). and find them very helpful and great to deal with. But they don't have a web-site nor do they sell on-line ..... they don't need to, I guess, as they are always so busy as it is. 03 9707 1148 is the phone number, if anyone reading needs it.

I wouldn't land all fault on the diet the ancestors have been on, although I do believe that does make a difference 'down the line'. I also think, however, that there must be something in what the protein sources (eg lamb, beef, chicken) are being brought up on in terms of diet; chemical/drug administration etc. Over time and generations, I can't help but believe this is an impact that shows up more and more clearly.

Sorry Issy. I'm googling and came across a number of links to "Advanced Allergy Elimination" (wonder if they changed their name from Advanced Allergy Clinic ??) that are apparently now/were under investigation by AAAC . All I can say is that my reaction to dogs cleared up very well after only two visits to the clinic and stayed away for years. I'd been thinking about returning for another visit as my sinuses are on the run (pun intended) again (although not specifically to dogs). It's been about 8 years approximately since I've been. I confess I'm disappointed that (assuming AAE is one and the same as what was known as AAC)they're not operating any more. I do apologise if it seems I was about to give you a dud lead, but I honestly felt relief after the non-invasive treatment I received. And in all honesty, I believed in their concept. It was a bit a long the lines of counter-conditioning. Sort of.

Good luck. Will think of you guys tomorrow and in the days to follow, and wishing Deanna all the best and a fast and good recovery.