Erny

I'm no nutritionist expert, BC Cazy. Most of my own learning has come from first-hand experience with my current dog "Mandela" whom I'm sure you've read around the traps here of his early problematic beginnings, to now. When it all started, I really didn't know where to go or what to do. The only thing I did do was I avoided use of antibiotics and cortisone (that's where the great use of Calendula Tea came in - phew!, life saver!!) and worked as hard as possible to find out what the problem was. My boy did not do well on any dry food (top of the range stuff was all I tried). In my boy's case, hives, boils, and other skin eruptive lesions, as well as yeast over-production, were all a part of his symptoms. So, my boy is a big exaggeration of what you may be experiencing, but nonetheless not necessarily dissimilar. Hope that makes sense. After running the gauntlet of all the likely/possible dry/commercial foods (yep - I was scared to go to a DIY diet back then because he was just a growing pup), veterinary lines inclusive, I finally ran out of likely, plausible alternatives. (And yes, I'd had every plausible test run imaginable - as much as I thought feasible and not detrimental to his condition.) So then I turned to the Augustine's Approved recommended diet. I'm not here to push or sell this diet - others may have knowledge of what a complete, total balanced raw diet is - but I needed something to not only BE right, but to help my boy's system, which was obviously under a good deal of stress and needed nurturing. In essence, this diet is about raw meat, selection of raw (blended) vegetables (to a ratio), the addition of coconut oil and also the AA's own product of a mix of herbal supplements. Each component included for nutritional value and also to promote harmony within the system. What is right for one dog isn't always right for another. In my dog's case, the salivary tests I undertook through Dr Jean Dodds showed my boy was sensitive to every commonly available meat protein source and even to those not so common. (Disclaimer : whether this test is relevant for Aussies is a question mark in my mind, as the base line for testing would be relevant to what the USA cattle/sheep/etc are fed, not necessarily what the Aussie Cattle/sheep/etc are fed. But it was a basic guideline, at least. And my dog pretty much confirmed certain things as he had already begun to refuse to eat beef, then lamb, then chicken. But anyway, I digress …) So I went for one simple meat protein - one that is as organic as one can reasonably readily get and one my dog would eat. i.e. Kangaroo. And I had to balance it with something. And that's where (for me) AA came in. That was two years ago - the longest so far I've been able to feed my dog anything without him turning off it and him being the most abdominally comfortable that I've seen him since he first began to exhibit symptoms (which was about 5 years ago). I guess I've rambled on a lot here when really what I'm saying here is "start with the KIS" mind-set, and work upwards from there. ETA: If the home-made raw diet you have him on is one which could be considered as balanced, why not increased that to 100% and drop the commercial? Give it time - watch (patiently) and wait, to see if the yeast balance rights itself. You can use the calendula tea rinse in the mean time, to keep the symptoms in check. If it doesn't right things, then perhaps the problem relates to the raw-diet components. But at least you're working one thing at a time to narrow it down some.

Yes - Calendula Tea helps with yeast issues. Used on the skin, it helps to cleanse the skin of the yeast build up and its antibacterial qualities helps to ward off secondary skin infections that can arise as a result of the yeast issue. But if the initial cause of the over production of yeast persists, the Calendula Tea won't cure. But it can help. ETA : BC Crazy - if you used Angel Eye's and the problem completely disappeared until you stopped, this is a big indication that the problem causing the yeast infection has not been addressed. For example, if you're feeding your dog a diet that might be promoting the over-production of yeast and you keep feeding that diet, any treatment you give to address the symptoms will do only just that - treat the symptoms. But it won't stop the over-production or whatever imbalance until you address the actual cause. Remember that sometimes things are less direct than what we imagine. For example : If a body's digestion is working hard to digest a particular something that is a component of a diet, it may mean that its system is not working to its optimum and something, somewhere in the body misses out on something. If that misses out on something, that generally affects something else and so on and so forth. And then we have an "imbalance". And that can allow the over-production of yeast (amongst other things) because the body can't keep things as in balance as it otherwise might. So there is not always a black and white answer as to what single thing to avoid - it might mean a complete look into what foods will allow the digestion to work less hard and nourish each organ as well as any system could. 'Cleaning' up a diet and working from very simple but balanced is, in my humble and not-professionally-educated opinion is the way to go. And again, in my opinion, that means taking a peak at the olden days when the food we fed was more simple and natural to dogs.

Your assumptions are right. Don't shampoo (shampooing can often upset the skin's pH balance, which sends things into a cycle of stripping and then over-doing things to correct the swing). It's really a matter of saturating the skin, so whichever way you do it, that's the aim. Whether you use a (e.g.) flannel saturated and squeeze it to the skin (for a Samoyd or any thick/long-haird dog you'd need to part the hair to get to the skin) for specific target areas, or whether you do it as a bath and wet the dog all over until saturated to all of its skin - it's whatever works the best to be able to wet your dog up. You can give a light towel off - just to take the excess from the coat, if you like. But doesn't matter too much. For the feet, I tend to pat dry (not rub) so the skin between the feet don't stay wet for too long. How much tea you use depends on the amount of water. For 'spot' rinses, I use a single serve coffee plunger and for that I put in about 2 tablespoons of tea (probably a bit more because if I have a reason for it, I err on the side of generous). A bath takes more - for this I put at least a fist full of the tea into the toe of a cut down stocking. I tie off the stocking. I fill the tub with about two inches of the hottest water and let the stocking I've prepared bob around in it until the water cools to at least tepid. Lift dog into bath (rubber mats to stop dog slipping) and use the stocking to wet the whole of the dog's body. My dog will respond to 'drop' even in a bath (not that he likes to) and that helps me to get the calendula tea bath water to soak up to and under his belly. I use the stocking to soak anywhere else. Hope that explanation helps. There's no real science to it - just get the skin soaked with the brewed tea and leave it in. :) Some times you need a shampoo too - long as you get one designed for dogs with the ph balanced for dogs and no soap - depends how the dog lives and how dirty it is. We have a shampoo for sensitive skin which has calendula in it. Agree, Steve, which is where I was a bit careful to say "can often". Although if a dog already has skin irritation, I prefer to avoid anything that suds until that at least has been brought under control. In my own experience (for myself and my dog) I find the straight Calendula Tea rinse the best, although there can be specific times/reasons why a Calendula Tea (e.g.) lotion might be the choice to make. (Eg. I used the Calendula Tea lotion when I had a tattoo done - for its soothing, healing effects and also as something to moisturise.)

Cheers :)

Your assumptions are right. Don't shampoo (shampooing can often upset the skin's pH balance, which sends things into a cycle of stripping and then over-doing things to correct the swing). It's really a matter of saturating the skin, so whichever way you do it, that's the aim. Whether you use a (e.g.) flannel saturated and squeeze it to the skin (for a Samoyd or any thick/long-haird dog you'd need to part the hair to get to the skin) for specific target areas, or whether you do it as a bath and wet the dog all over until saturated to all of its skin - it's whatever works the best to be able to wet your dog up. You can give a light towel off - just to take the excess from the coat, if you like. But doesn't matter too much. For the feet, I tend to pat dry (not rub) so the skin between the feet don't stay wet for too long. How much tea you use depends on the amount of water. For 'spot' rinses, I use a single serve coffee plunger and for that I put in about 2 tablespoons of tea (probably a bit more because if I have a reason for it, I err on the side of generous). A bath takes more - for this I put at least a fist full of the tea into the toe of a cut down stocking. I tie off the stocking. I fill the tub with about two inches of the hottest water and let the stocking I've prepared bob around in it until the water cools to at least tepid. Lift dog into bath (rubber mats to stop dog slipping) and use the stocking to wet the whole of the dog's body. My dog will respond to 'drop' even in a bath (not that he likes to) and that helps me to get the calendula tea bath water to soak up to and under his belly. I use the stocking to soak anywhere else. Hope that explanation helps. There's no real science to it - just get the skin soaked with the brewed tea and leave it in. :)

Fantastic, RSA!! Glad you are as impressed as I am. I tend to find a lot of people place the Calendula Tea as a 'last resort' attempt rather than a 'first resort' attempt. Or, because it doesn't sud-up, can't imagine that it will clean. When really, it is amazingly good, is cheap by comparison to many shampoos (which tends to strip the coat and skin of oils regardless) and Veterinary line products, is as easy as cinch to use, and can help avoid the heavier types of treatments. And hey, what has anyone lost if they try it first? No harm to dog. No huge expense (in time or money). I love that you think it as good as I do. Sometimes I think people think I'm a "Calendula Tea crackpot". Lol ….. there are times when I've thought so myself. But it is worth trying to get people to try it and I'm delighted that you did and that you are as pleased with results as I am. Good on you :D Edited to add : I read somewhere that it isn't quite as simple as growing a marigold plant and using the petals and middle bits …. that there was something more in the drying method. I don't know if that's correct or not and haven't followed that side of things up. I find it easier to purchase - the time I'd spend cultivating and drying probably wouldn't be worth the effort by comparison to the cost of the relatively small amounts I need these days. Steve - I'll be looking to purchase some from you when I next need to replenish my supply which has dwindled a fair amount, but that's because I've given bits of it away here and there to help people out whilst they've arranged to get some in. Last half packet I gave away to a friend who was struck with a bad head-cold. She brewed the tea, let it cool, and then 'drank' the tea through her nose. Said it worked wonders for her sinuses. (I've done this with salt water, but learnt the hard way not to over salt it. Calendula would be much more soothing :) ).

DOL needs a "like" button.

I too what like to know what is being considered as being under-weight. If the dog is healthy, energetic, doing well, etc. and is not so thin in complete disproportionate food portions -vs- energy, I prefer lean to fat. So if she's not too bad in terms of condition and she's otherwise healthy, I wouldn't worry too much.

I've had a lot of luck with the Augustine Approved recommended diet - this was after I had tried about every recommended commercial diet including Veterinary lines (prescription and otherwise) and commercial raw.

We ran Agility Classes - no pressure to competition, however the earlier classes were very much aimed at the correct way of training to the agility equipment. It wasn't just a "run over or through obstacles in whichever fashion" - this primarily for the safety of the dog. The secondary reason for this approach was so that if anyone did get the 'bug' and decided they wanted to look towards competition, their dogs were trained correctly for this purpose. Speed around the course was not the first point of focus. The "courses" (which of course comprised of appropriate equipment according to dog capability and experience) were structured - again, this was for 'flow' and also safety effect. But there was never any pressure towards competition work and everyone was welcome to participate and learn, regardless of their reasons or ambitions.

My own dog is also absolute testament to the fact that dogs do benefit from the use of herbs. Along side the Augustine's Approved recommended diet, my boy is on a mixture of herbs which has helped immensely with whatever is wrong with his digestive system. In addition to the herb mix which forms part of his diet, everyone here would know me well as the "Calendula Tea" addict. I've had so much success with this tea I've been able to avoid not only anti-histamines, but more over, antibiotics and cortisone treatments that earlier Vets (who were scratching their heads at what his problem was) were advocating/prescribing for him (and which I refused). His brother was pts at 12mo for all the skin outbreaks he was enduring (after his owners followed the common 'antibiotics & cortisone' regime, over and over - masked the problems until the prescriptions finished each time). My boy, whose outbreak of symptoms arose after his brother's, is now 5.5 years old and although not perfect, strikes most as a picture of (lean) health. So yep …. I'm a big advocate of herbs do work for dogs. Like anything - read up on what you're giving.

Calendula Tea :)

The coat is telling you a story, one that comes from the inside. If her coat is dry, it is likely related to what's inside, unless it relates to over bathing.

Agree with LisaCC and Persephone (and the others who also recognise the physical affect of desexing prior to completion of physical growth). Humping isn't generally sexual and can and does often occur in de-sexed dogs as well, so desexing by itself won't necessarily make the difference you might imagine. It often begins as instinctive exploratory behaviour and as the dog's developmental phases progress (and these will still progress - hormones still exist after desexing otherwise the dog would not survive), can become a demonstration of assertiveness. It is not acceptable and should be appropriately discouraged. Also agree that desexing doesn't magically give you a dog who is compliant, who walks on the lead nicely. That does come down to training. Desexing might round an edge, so to speak, but that's only a "might" and it's only the very edge and only in certain circumstances, not all.

Sounds to me as though this might be her 'learnt' avoidance behaviour to the sensation of the collar and lead. Does she enjoy the collar/lead going on? What's she like if the lead is simply dropped and left to drag (try this in back yard)? If there's no direct issue with the wearing of the collar and lead, then it seems to me she doesn't want you to control the walk. Rather, that she wants to control the walk herself. Can only speak generally, given we're without the benefit of first-hand observation but I would go for a martingale (making sure it is fitted so that it cannot slip an ear). When she's walking well, keep up with the positive motivation (praise, reward) but when she plants herself, keep moving - not so much/fast that you cause her to drag along, but using little perpetual 'pops' on the lead with forward pressure until the very second she lifts her butt and goes to walk. When she does, switch to praise. In other words - on one hand you're making it clear what works to her advantage (praise/reward). But she is gaining some advantage over planting her butt that is in its own way being reinforced (for her). Make 'planting butt' more unpleasurable (pop; pop; pop; pop) with the leash > martingale and this will create a greater contrast to "walking on lead" -vs- "planting butt/balking". Make sure not to turn and look at her when she plants her butt - I find a lot of people do that because the people find it easier instead of facing forward in the direction they are going and using their head and peripheral vision to watch their dog. In essence though, give the impression you're not changing direction at her command nor giving her attention for "planting butt" (removes another potential inadvertent reinforcer). Also give the attitude of calm, assertive and YOU own the walk, rather than teaching her that she controls it. If she wants to go sniff a tree; play with her other dog friend; whatever; …… and you're happy and ready for her to do so, have her meet your focus before you turn her loose/let her go sniff. All of above said on the assumption there are no environmental triggers she might be frightened of that is causing any 'butt planting'. By sounds of what you've written, I don't think that to be the case.

Try Calendula Tea. You should see within 24 hours, improvement and may mean you don't even need to administer anti-histamines. My boy was a bit itchy around his chin and I noticed a number of small, pink bumps. Calendula Tea rinse at the site and bumps receded quickly - gone completely within 48 hours. Only applied it twice. If you don't see improvement inside 24 hours, then go for the anti-histamines.

A good overall soak with Calendula Tea is good as a wash. And soothes the skin, rather than riles it.

Mandela had a swollen toe. By the sounds, considerably different to the swelling you describe - his whole toe and pad were swollen to twice normal size. I'm familiar with Mandela's issues, which relate to digestive and which result in body toxins that show up as various skin lesions from time to time. So whilst I believed I knew what was going on and had experienced and treated boil-like lesions between his toes before, this one was behaving a bit different and way more painful than the others and I was aware of the possibility of broken toe. Hence a Vet visit and an X-ray which ruled out broken-toe (yay!). Once having the X-ray results ruling that out, like me and knowing Mandela's history, my Vet presented the option of poultice instead of antibiotics which in this case is what would ordinarily have been prescribed. We used magnoplasm as the poultice and visible signs of relief (he could at least put foot on the ground) were evident inside 24 hours. I re-did the poultice every 24 hours for 3 days. The swelling around the toe had considerably reduced and by this time Mandela was no longer limping on it. Left it alone after that, unbandaged, and what we believe was a boil which did not come to a head but the toxins from which were drawn to the surface of the skin, resolved. Not suggesting this is your dog's problem and I think Vet's opinion to at least rule out other things that might require different treatment is important. But if you believe the problem could be a foreign body and this form of treatment will assist, perhaps the telling of our experience can be helpful. Picture of Mandela's toe before treatment and 3 days after treatment (don't know if the sites on the skin showing where toxins were exuding will be identifiable) below. Having trouble uploading photos

My suggestion ….. if a new lot come up, get onto them with the Calendula Tea straight away - the earlier the better. Antibiotics don't cure - if the cause remains, the symptoms will keep returning. I use Calendula Tea to keep the symptoms at bay and to help stop them becoming secondary infection whilst I'm working out what the cause actually is so I can work to resolve it. Antibiotics have their place, but they do have an affect on the system and if that affect impacts further, the situation can become cyclic. If the Calendula Tea didn't make a difference and things appeared to be worsening, maybe then I'd consider antibiotics, but cautiously. I'm really pleased you're finding the Calendula Tea is helping :).

Hi BC Crazy. Great stuff to have in your first aid kit. Purchase from a Health Food Store or on-line. "World-par-tea" is one on-line shop who I have spoken with to ensure what they sell is organic and free from artificial colouring. Generally speaking, I use a good couple of what would equate to tablespoons full. If anything, I'm more on the generous side. I purposely make it strong when something is really irritated, sore and/or threatening/becoming infected. Then I back it off to the usual one or two tablespoons full until the affected area is healed. You make it as you would any tea - i.e., pour on hot water and allow to brew. I let it brew until the boiling water has cooled to tepid or less. I use a single serve coffee plunger for the purpose. Or - for bigger areas, I pack the toe of a stocking with the Calendula Tea and tie off the stocking. I run the hottest water possible into the bath tub to a depth of about 4 inches. My dog is a large breed. I let the CT stocking bob around in this until the water has cooled to tepid. Make sure the plug is in tight - I did this once only to find all the water had leaked out and I had to start again. Then I put dog into the tub and used the CT stuffed stocking as I might a sponge and wet my dog down with it, making sure to soak through to the skin. Leave on. Don't rinse. Pat dry areas to absorb excess water, but essentially, let the tea dry on the skin. Hope that helps. Great idea to include it in your first aid kit. It can be used for so many things. And it can be used orally if necessary.

It's one of the best and kindest 'first-starts' in my book, rather than jumping to other things that can have a spin-off affect.

Unless it is for something serious and seriously urgent, I prefer to go the Calendula Tea wash. AB's can be good and warranted in certain situations, but they do have a tendency to unbalance the system. If the CT wash/rinse works to ease the symptoms (and you can pretty quickly tell if it does or doesn't), why move to administration of AB's? And it won't hurt if your dog drinks the CT either - if she wants it, allow her to. Added advantage is that if she licks the affected area, she won't be taking in things orally that were only meant for topical.

Rinse with Calendula Tea. :D Natural. Soothing. Healing. Anti-bacterial. Anti-inflammatory. Won't harm. Usually does good.

Gotta be careful of shampoos - medicated or otherwise. Can send the skin into an over-reactive cycle that becomes self perpetuating.

This ^^ Same with worming. I do not worm regularly. In fact, have had fecal tests run every now and again with negative results. Haven't 'wormed' for 5 years. Have given natural herbal 'elimination' supplement at one stage. Never had a flea issue. Never used flea preventative nor flea rinses. I just remain vigilant and mindful (but not obsessively so).