Erny

Remember that rewards/reinforcers are variable in their value, depending on the moment and how the dog feels about it. Sometimes one type of reward/reinforcer (e.g. food treat) is "worth it" and some times they are not - depending on the circumstances. Rather than always relying on only the food to do the job, perhaps also try thinking about some other reward/reinforcer/motivator that can assist in distracting, rewarding and over time assist you in creating a classically conditioned response towards you rather than to the other dogs.

I found the more formal looking harness with "In Training" the most effective. The formality of the harness drew the attention of people (who in general and I think to a degree subconsciously, understand guide dog harnesses = dog in work) who could see it from at least some distance. The "In Training" tags at the sides drew people's respect and questions were usually first asked before approach was made. I don't think this should or needs to be a "system" but it is a 'tip' for some who are looking for something that might work a bit better for them. "My Dog's In Training" (said or called out) was often something that had people pulling back their dogs (and their own otherwise unthinking hands) and taking a moment to think when I needed it the most in my boy's earlier training days.

Yeah, ok. But that means I would HAVE to have my dog wear a yellow ribbon. If it came off, or I forgot it and someone let their inappropriately behaved dog come over to him and cause a scuffle, then it could be said that I was in the wrong for not sporting a yellow ribbon to say "stay away". Is that really right? I can see many responsible people with good dogs getting caught under what could be designed as a "system" that if one isn't aware of it, could land you (and your dog) in trouble. Sure - a lot of people don't observe common courtesy and knowledge about personal space and the right to peaceful enjoyment, but doesn't this open the door to them being ABLE to blame others who might not have the knowledge (or got caught out for not bringing their ribbon with them) to sport the yellow ribbon? And what about the good dogs and owners who have efficient control, when they let their dogs off-lead and perhaps go for a swim in the local swimming hole ….. ribbon gets wet if on the collar and potentially not identified. Ribbon on lead won't have much effect in those circumstances. Still don't think the onus should be placed on owners and good dogs as it leaves the door of blame open to irresponsible owners (and believe me, THEY are the ones who look for any excuse to blame) to blame them for their own irresponsibilities. Anyway - I admit I've said my piece and IMO it contains very valid points that should not be ignored. This "yellow ribbon" system is one that will be forced upon those who don't agree with it for the sheer fact it will become a protocol necessary just for being "good". And in my books, that's wrong. If it's within clubs, that's fine - I'm not concerned as it doesn't affect me. But if it is a "system" that is to become more public, that's a concern. As how will anyone know if the dog is not sporting a yellow ribbon because he's "ok" or because the owner wasn't aware of the "yellow ribbon system". Anyway …… my dog's favourite colour is not yellow. Lol.

Oops. Did I stop the conversation?

I could only assume the same. Which means these Vets retain the concept of "more immunity or less immunity", which is a concept I don't believe. For me, one is immune or not immune, nothing in between.

Perfect sense, DC. In fact, given that we are weakening immune systems by an overload of vaccine, the Insurance Companies should be embracing the idea of and accepting titres with open arms. What would be the likely expense of treatment for CC though? What I mean by the above is that there is no treatment for CC itself. That's a matter of letting it run its course. But if it was to develop to secondary infection, I could imagine the cost of a vet visit and antibiotic. Under my insurance plan, I have to pay for the first $100 anyway. So, if it is brought down only to cost and the exclusion of whether we are doing the right thing by administering vaccines unnecessarily, is there really any benefit to vaccinating for CC (which would involve a Vet consult fee and out-of-pockets for the vaccine) for the sake of maintaining insurance cover?

My highlights Hhhhhmmm ….. What do they mean by "if an abnormality shows up"?

I'd be fighting that, if it did come up. If immunity is proven via titre, I cannot see how "lack of vaccinated cover" could be proven by the insurance cover as the cause of a disease being contracted.

My understanding is that if the velvet is on the antlers it means that the antlers have had a blood supply and have had to have been cut off and haven't shed from the deer naturally and therefore have not hardened/calcified. I'm not sure how deer antler removal is done nor whether there is pain associated with the practice. In fact, I'm not even sure if I am right. I'm going by something I read a good while ago. I've had a deer antler for my boy for a few years. There's barely a dint in it. He's not into chewing things that are too hard, but I think this goes to the fact that his gums are sensitive as a result of his sensitivity to protein.

I agree with the above. A training organisation I used to work for had a similar system but instead of ribbon colour, it was based on leash colour. The difficulty with it was that those who had dogs with the bright orange leash colour relied more on others keeping out of their way and blamed all else for being any where near them when they were working, rather than understanding they too needed to continue to be vigilant regards their environment and the changes within it. It was as though many of those who utilised a bright orange lead felt they had "right-of-way", even though they were otherwise informed. Relying on an identification system such as this also leaves itself open to having those who aren't aware of it NOT sporting a yellow ribbon and others making the then potentially dangerous assumption that this means that dog is "ok". If the dog is not "ok" blame will be placed upon that owner for not having a yellow ribbon, rather than promoting responsibility on each owner for effective control and a blanket approach to conscious and judicious interaction. Consequently, I think education should be about training for effective control and only permitting interaction amongst dogs (if that's what people want to do) with confirmed acknowledgement and agreement and I don't agree with it being reliant on wearing a ribbon of any certain colour. The concept of the above is akin to suggesting that people who don't want to be hugged and kissed by any stranger they meet along the course of a walk must wear a coloured ribbon. Why should people have to identify to gain the respect and consideration of the rest of the community? That respect and consideration should and must be automatic and the consensus of general opinion, expectations and the law should reflect that it is our right to expect such consideration and respect. So why have opposite expectation of the dog-owning community which to me only denigrates our automatic right to expect consideration and respect of personal space? Perhaps, if this is really what people want, it should be a case of "wear a yellow ribbon if your dog IS ok and you want other dogs to approach and interact". In my opinion, that would be a better, more reliable and safer system. (And people who DO want to be hugged and kissed by every stranger they meet when they're out walking can wear a coloured ribbon too, if they want, :laugh: ). At least this way, it is a system which will err on the cautious side of assumption, rather than the other way around. And as an aside ….. just because there are really excellent trainers who are knowledgeable and experienced and versed in ALL quadrants of training, doesn't mean they won't use positive training techniques. But this point is not why I disagree with the "identification by colour" concept.

As per other's suggestions that your dog could have dedicated through fear. If this is the case, merely clean it up and preferably in the absence of the dog. Certainly don't make a fuss. If the inappropriate soiling continues to occur without acceptable excuse (and I don't really consider "getting wet" as acceptable), go back to a refresher in toilet training 101.

What Steve said and this ^^ makes the most sense to me. Try once again (no use throwing the baby out with the bath water) avoiding chemicals directly before, during and after to at least rule that out as the cause, rather than instantly assuming there's something wrong with the bitch. The owners could titre if they want to be assured that their bitch has immunity. A "zero" titre result does not necessarily mean no immunity where immunity has been proven before, but if there is a count evidenced, at least they can relax.

The ad sounds to me as though it will attract the sect who are looking for carry-alls, rather than a dog. "Don't put me on wet grass because I don't like it"?? "Prefer to be carried"?? "I like my own way"?? and "good lap-dog" (is that all people should expect it needs??). High price but any thing is worth what someone will pay. But it seems to me that the ad is targeting someone who wouldn't mind a dog as an accessory, not as a dog.

I have a lot of respect in hair-DNA testing and analysis ….. if you hadn't already gathered, lol. (Actually, you might not have …. I didn't write of hair-DNA in this thread - have in so many others though. *Smack* … I must be slacking off! :laugh: .) Glad that an address to the situation is from the point of view of helping the body strengthen and resolve rather than only targeting symptom. Will be looking forward to hearing how things are getting on and hoping it's all good news from here upwards :)

I would be doing this to help his system recover beyond the prednisolone and hopefully so that the prednisolone is no longer required. What sort of herbs? And yes, have now been careful to ensure he's not too exuberant. The weather has helped keep him quieter than normal, but at 9 he no longer acts quite like the puppy he was :) Unfortunately there will be no 'play dates' with his one and only friend for a while They play very rough when they get together. For my dog, for my Mum and now for me ….. I had hair samples DNA'd for the purpose of targeting what my dog's body, my Mum's body and my body actually needed. I have found this works very well. I go through Ross Wilson (works from Coburg Health and Nutrition Store, Victoria) for this. The test is simple - just post in a sample of hair. The analysis is not alarmingly expensive. The natural supplement/s can work out costly but that depends on what your dog's hair reveals that he needs. In the long term, I find it works out the most economical as I know from first hand experience how much money (not to mention valuable time) is spent dotting here and there, trying this and that, without some sort of firm, clear direction. ETA : When you find out what herbal supplements are required, Steve may be able to provide you with some of those :) .

Hahaha …. politely? Yes, I guess mostly. But there was the occasional burst of frustration from this side of the computer - especially when I really felt that its use along with a good hard look at and change of diet could very potentially avoid the use of chemical drugs and be better for the longer term yet knowing that calendula was being fairly easily dismissed. I am rapt that this thread has finally sparked the enthusiasm and confidence for many more people to use it. It's not a cure by itself and people need to remember that. It buys the time necessary to be able to work out what is actually causing the problem. It helps the body recover from the cause. If the cause persists, the calendula will help to soothe and heal the symptoms, but the cause will still affect. More often than not, the cause is what the dog is eating. I really strongly believe that this last is the reason for many and most of the ailments that afflict our dogs.

I would be doing this to help his system recover beyond the prednisolone and hopefully so that the prednisolone is no longer required.

Looking at the videos, what I'm not keen on is the angle that the strap from behind the front legs comes up to meet the collar. It does inhibit shoulder movement and I can only imagine some degree of discomfort on the dog's part. I notice with the videos that I watched that none of the handlers actually handled the leash at all, but having said that, if there's something that is not uncomfortable to the dog on a continuum basis, does not rub and does not cause the dog to habitually walk unnaturally yet achieves a loose lead walk for those who don't/won't learn there's more to a leash than just as something to hold on to your dog with (and I'm not aiming this last comment to the OP or anyone specifically), then at least it is a tool that will have dogs walked more rather than languishing at home in the back yard. And that blood hound in the first video could certainly do with more exercise and less food! I have used a front attaching harness (sensible harness) with my boy when he was going through the teaching phases of loose lead walking and self-control when in the presence of other dogs. It was ONE of the tools I used to assist and eventually fade off from. I found this harness very good, although I double-leaded him so I could work from martingale with the harness being there as an extra back-up should I have needed it.

As per what Steve said. AND check into the CAUSE for the yeast. First place I would start would be diet. Have a read up on "Augustine Approved" website. Generally, antibiotics and cortisone seem to be the first things tried. I think working on the above is the better way to start. "Ear Clear" (by Natural Solutions) helped my boy earlier in his checkered health history (natural based - includes lavender - Steve might have something along these lines), but Calendula Tea is something I just used to cover an ear flair up he just had. I avoid chemicals like the plague and to help the dog's system become stronger I look at what fuel the dog's getting so his system can work to optimum. The symptoms I deal with in the most natural and benign (to the body) way as possible so I can actually get closer to FIXING the problem, not only deal with symptoms of the problem that lays behind it all.

I thought this was additional good information that supports the use of raw meat/foods in our dogs' diets, rather than dry food. My boy who, as most are aware, has had problems over the years and has never been the best he can be until I found a whole raw balanced diet to suit him, regardless of the fact that in the early days, he was fed the best brand/s dry kibble money could buy (because I was too scared to "do the wrong thing" by creating a whole raw diet for him, preferring the "safety net" of falling for the labels, descriptions, etc. etc. that were printed on the commercial packets). I wish I had gone straight to a whole raw diet for him, and wished I knew back then the knowledge that his checkered health history has had me learn. But that's a hindsight thing and we can only but live and learn and put those things we've learnt into practice - for the ones we now have and for the ones we may have in the future. Out of interest, one of the things I didn't know until now was of the dogs' system being designed to absorb water through their food and if food that does not provide this natural moisture is not provided, the dogs are forced to seek water separately to that ….. if they will and if they do this sufficiently is another matter. I thought others might find this link to the Vets All Natural page an interesting insight to this topic. Struvite Crystals, Renal failure

Thanks Kayla1 and Steve for the explanations. I've become one who strongly believes that where there's life, there's hope and knowing the great things that herbal supplements/remedies can do to help the body, I too would explore that path if it were me. It's a really, really, rotten time to be in and I feel for the OP very, very much.

Steve - Elderly Mum was experiencing urinary frequency issues. No UTI (that was checked out numerous times over and always came up negative). Back then, bloods showed kidney function as ok. Hair-DNA indicated mild kidney disease. Administration of natural supplements very quickly resulted in an improvement in urinary function and output. The above would be different to more advanced kidney disease, but doesn't this indicate that there can be some damage which can be repaired? If it couldn't, I wouldn't expect there'd be any improvement to what Mum was experiencing but would expect it to not become worse. But (fortunately) a good degree of improvement was very evident and in fairly quick turn-around.

I have read (I think it might have been through one of Dr Jean Dodds' articles, but don't quote me) that there can be a plausible link between cruciate tears/ruptures and thyroid issues. Maybe check her website and search there, as if there is an underlying cause for cruciate weakness, the best first step would be to address that (i.e. *feed* the ligament for strength and build on that).

That's fair enough, CC. We all put in our thoughts and so many of them here are really excellent ones. So please understand I'm not arguing with your thoughts/opinions. But I read or was told somewhere along the line that sero-conversion occurs two weeks after second vaccination (or it should) and that's the time to check via titre that it has occurred. If it hasn't, then a third puppy vaccination may be required, but if it has, the antibodies necessary for immunity will be there. So my question (and not necessarily only to you, CC, for your thoughts on it, but to anyone …. Stormie?? …. reading here) is why is it a recommendation (and CC is not the only one to recommend 1st booster 12 months after last puppy vaccine - I'm pretty sure Dr Jean Dodds, for whose opinions I have the utmost of respect and revere) that the first annual booster be given and THEN titre? Is it perhaps to save the expense of a titre? But then, wouldn't one want to know sero-conversion after puppy vaccinations HAS occurred? Otherwise, it could be a whole year spent with no immunity ??? And then, if there is a chance of change during the maturity process, why not a titre first at the annual date instead of going straight to a booster? Again, is this a cost efficiency thing?