haven

When I started in scent detection training the first target we were supposed to teach was a lemon. Of course my Rotti bitch took one wiff and then CHOMP

My Rotti will eat anything. Her fav is a banana! Caution on whole fruits as many such as apples, apricots, tomatoes etc have poisonous parts, usually the seeds, leaves, stems etc.

Sure, but I still don't remember what I did with that bloody credit slip and today I left my wallet at the dog food place, I was just lucky that a fellow trainer was there and returned it to me

I think the thread being refered to is "protecting the pack, or just plain aggressive" 'Can I play' is a reference to an article posted by Holly in that thread. Could be wrong.

Yes agility has helped heaps with my dogs confidence! When we first started he was such a scaredy on the catwalk and wouldn't go through the tunnel with a bag on the end. Now there is no stopping him! He goes over the catwalk like a steam train not matter how high it is, zooms through the tunnel and can go over the a-frame when it is almost vertical! At parks, off lead, he will go up the stairs, down the slide, up the stairs, down the slide, he never gets enough and the big grin!!!!!! I used to have jumps set up in the backyard but he would tear around and jump them on his own all day and I was worried he would hurt himself. It's really the only thing he loves to do. Sure wish I could carry agility equipment around in my pocket to use as a reward!!!!

As in 'Calvin' and?

Do you find that using this method results in a dog that doesn't 'offer' new behaviours? What about with skills more complex than the sit, drop, etc? Does it make shaping difficult?

I don't believe it is a necessity to crate train, but it certainly can be valuable. However, simply being in the crate won't stop your puppy from going to the toilet. Yes, they will instinctively try not to soil their sleeping area, but you need to take into account how long your puppy is physically capable of holding on.

Looks like a lot of mixed signals to me. Thought it was piloerection too Erny, just on the whithers.. What you definately need is one on one professional advice. Can you be more specific on your location, someone may be able to recommend a behaviourist in the area.

It's hard to describe. Very similar to a play bow but can be much more prolonged and intense. Can be right down on the elbows with a pronounced curve of the back, a half bow or switching between the two. ETA: often there is 'shuffling' along on the elbows as the dog barks. Nova does it when her motivation goes into overdrive, she gets frustrated and all reason goes out the window Don't have pics but I may be able to get some. Having said that I've been waiting nearly six months now....... Mainly I've seen it in Rotti's but have seen it in other breeds during protection training. I think it also has to do with the dog's drive fulfillment being inhibited by the control (either on lead, or command control off lead) of the owner. The reason I posted is that not everyone would know the difference between this and the play bow on sight and I wouldn't want anyone thinking play bow position always = ok.

Just a comment on the 'play bow.' I have seen certain breeds that show aggression in a similar position. It has been speculated that the reason for this is so the dog has some leverage with which to spring if it is going to attack. Where are his ears and tail when this happens? Up and forward, down and back, do they flick between the two? How many teeth can you see, mainly the front ones or can you see right down the back? Does the dog stare, avoid eye contact or does his focus change often? Is there any piloerection (hackles raised)?

Because the omega 3 and 6 use up the vitamin E in your dogs body to prevent the fats from going rancid, so you need to replenish the supply. The product I use is Vet's All Natural omega blend. The also have pure cold pressed flax seed oil. Alternately you can just give your dog some fatty fish once a week as, or in his meal. Just out of curiosity, what do you feed her in addition to the barf patties you mentioned?

Not personally but have known many who have and I often recommend it. Make sure you increase your dog's vitamin E intake also.

Just so I'm on the same page: Is the method you are describing similar to the priciples of 'double trouble?' IE when the dog does not respond to a known command you recommand and correct without giving the dog the opportunity to comply, but you are actually using this method as the training phase for your dogs? You don't actually give corrections until a behaviour is learned? Then you use corrections after the command without waiting for the dog to comply? Am I understanding? If so are you selective about using this method or do you find it suitable for all dogs?

It's not against the law. I'm not really sure why it is done but was advised to by my vet when my dog had a pup. He was three days old though, it could be a bigger issue with an older dog.

That's not so, it has to do with the appetetive or aversive nature of the event and how well they are paired in time.

Excellent point Warley. Actually gentle regular massage of the area once the would has healed completely could stimulate the hair follicles and encourage hair growth, it does in humans.

Ah puppy love Try upping her magnesium intake too ninaandted

Erny, it seems like some are still stuck on the fact that the noise IS a correction for your dog.

So are you saying that you give the dog the correction without giving them the opportunity to comply? Or is that the sequence you use after the dog ignores the first command?

No, definately no punishment for toileting ever for puppies. They won't understand that the place is the issue, but could link it to the act itself or you, causing all sorts of problems including but not limited to hiding from you to toilet and eating their own faeces. It has been suggested in other threads that if your pup toilets in the house you should roll up a newspaper and use it to hit yourself over the nose and I agree It's hard when they are pups, I know I've just had one, but as someone else said it's a management issue for you, not your pup. Clean the areas where your pup has toileted in the house with an enzymatic cleaner to break down the scent mollecules so it no longer says 'toilet here' to your dogs nose. Take your pup out as often as possible especially after sleeping, playing, eating and drinking and wait until your pup goes. Dogs do develop a substrate preference that is difficult to change when they get older so you really want to avoid accidents inside to ensure it's not your carpet! Good luck

I once used a combination of sea minerals, emu oil and honey for a horse that had a major injury resulting in an operation on his knee. The wound was so large it covered the front half of his leg from halfway down the cannon to 10cm or so above the knee. All the hair grew back very quickly with no visable scarring, it was amazing to see.

I haven't used rescue remedy because I have heard that it has a high alcohol content. Of course there are some herbal remedies that are made especially for dogs. I prefer to treat my dogs in their diet for a long term health benefit, rather than using something like rescue remedy, which I view as more of a quick fix. In some cases I guess that is all you need.

Good work It's awful isn't it, when you step back and see things in a different light. I remember when I was doing the Certificate III in dog behaviour and training. The lecturer would say "oh and you should never do _______" and I was like doh! I did that just this morning! Cringeworthy

I wasn't aware that was an option! If the vaccination certificate would still be recognised by those that wanted it (obedience clubs, kennels etc) I would definately do it myself. I don't see the reason for capable people to visit the vet and pay an exorbitant sum to get their dogs vaccinated. When my bitch whelped the vet was happy to give me a supply of oxytocin to inject without even asking if I was capable of administering it