haven

Ok I checked the website, I know they used to have a product called 'Canine Nutritional Powder' but from the looks of the site I suspect it may have morphed into something called 'Health Booster'. Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to click on the link to get a list of ingredients Anyway, in response to you origonal question.....I give a range of different things instead of a mixed supplement in tablet or powder form. Anything from aloe vera juice, mauka honey, chammomile, liqourice root, slippery elm powder, apple cider vinegar, eggs, fish, brewers yeast, kelp and much more. It would be slightly more convenient in a store bought supplement but i'd rather be aware of and in control of what goes in and how much/often :D

I love the way my dogs smell, except after they are bathed. I find the 'doggy smell' is only there for about a week after a wash and then they smell fine to me :D You can get dry shampoo tho that you comb through the coat between washes, I just prefer au naturel

Really, the nutritional powder? That's weird

PF VAN also have a general nutritonal powder in addition to the joint formula, but I couldn't tell you what is in it off the top of my head. Why is missing link missing?

Absolutely I would, I'd train using the most appropriate and succesful method for that specific dog

That's the million dollar question IMO, being punished for toileting in the house can result in this kind of behaviour.

Many dogs are MORE likely to gulp food when being hand fed or when you are holding onto the food while they eat it, because they may see the situation as competative.

Someone, somewhere is always going to have a horror story about their dog becoming ill or dying from eating anything, raw/cooked, fresh/processed, dogs inhale dry food or raw, bone damages gut or bowel etc etc. The fact is, it happens.....but the risk is small. With common sense you can minimise the chances and provided you supervise your dogs while they eat you shouldn't have any major problems.

I'd switch to frames. Considering my Rotti pup was eating em at 5 weeks, I'd say at 12 weeks of age your boy will do just fine with them

I had the same problem with my GSD, it took about 2 years to get him to eat a decent meal on a regular basis because he suffered so much anxiety all the time. You need to consider if there is an underlying cause that needs to be addressed in order to solve the problem. Switching to a raw diet helped immensley, but what eventually got my guy eating regularly, although it sounds rather backwards, was fasting him once a week.

*vows never to let Boyd see this thread* :p

Rotti's hate cuddles? Good god, I'll have to tell Nova!!! :p

I've only skimmed throught this thread so forgive me if this had already been asked and answered: As you state that Steve (K9 Force) has already seen your dog, have you put these questions to him? If you are having trouble identifying what triggers your dogs aggrssive reaction, you should consider keeping a diary. Record every incidence of meeting another dog and your dogs reaction. Include as much information you can, like the age, sex, colour, size, body language etc of the other dog and also things like the distance at which she reacted, her body language before during and after etc etc. Try to note things like your own feelings, body posture and reactions and those of the person leading the other dog. This kind of thing can be very useful when having trouble identifying your dogs triggers. As to what to do about it all, if you haven't done so already I think you should email Steve as he has actually seen your dog and been involved in the treatment process.

If anyone would like further information on the course including costs, modules, structure etc please feel free to email [email protected] to recive an information pack

Hmm I'm not sure what you mean by 'animal acting' as to my knowledge the NDTF has never had an elective in this. If you are refering to the Teach Dogs Complex Skills and Tricks module it is still there, although it is now a core module rather than an elective. You certainly can APPLY for RPL, but doing a course in Vet nursing doesn't automatically mean you will be granted RPL because the Cert III in Dog Behaviour and Training is not a Vet nursing course.

My god the internet has a scary amount of misinformation I wasn't 100% about the incubation period for parvo so I did a google and came up with everything from 36 hours to 3-4 weeks! Tarazades, I suggest you get a statement from your Vet regarding the incubation period of the virus to take to the breeder. If you have only had the pup 1 week I think it likely that the pup contracted the virus before he/she got to you.

Fix it by removing the issue, don't let the Saluki pup jump all over and act hyper around the Rotti baby. The psychological damage done by the intimidation in addition to that already done thanks to a total lack of socialisation could very well scar this puppy for life. Socialise him with calm, quiet dogs of a solid temperament first and keep the Saluki and any other over zealous pups/dogs away for now.

Sorry have no idea what that is Edited to say: OMG I can't believe I just asked that LOL no i don't have 'skinkids' *slinking off totally embarrassed* Now that's what I like to see, furkids first! Welcome to the forums GG

I'd be worried too and would be getting her to the Vet ASAP for a check up if he were my dog!

Sorry, I mistunderstood that part where you said (twice) that the crate was in the hall. Either way you do yourself no favours by reinforcing his behaviour and letting him out when he cries.

Personally I let my dogs sleep (crated) in my bedroom. It's against a dogs natural instincts to spend prolonged periods seperated from the pack although plenaty of people leave their dogs outside all day or night without issue. I'd try that and see how you go but if you have a preference for him to sleep in another room start psyching yourself up for a few nights of broken sleep because he will cry and you will basically have to grin and bear it. If you go out to him even to yell you give him exactly what he wants (your attention) therefore reinforcing his crying and ensuring he will do it again, probably loder and longer every time. *sigh* sometimes you just want to strangle them, the little brats that they can be

Perhaps she could see someone that is trained in both human and canine psychology? I know of a few such people, PM me if you're interested.

DAP is Dog Appeasing Pheromone which is currently available on conditional release pending registration so it can be tough to get. I purchased mine from Vetstop (online) in a diffuser form so it plugs into an electrical outlet much like the air fresheners which are all over the TV at the moment. In laymen terms as I understand it, DAP is derived from the pheromones that a lactating bitch excretes when she is feeding her pups. It is supposed to be very soothing for dogs on both a chemical and psychological level (ie it triggers an emotional state because they associate it with feeling safe and fed and warm from when they were puppies). I have tried it with my dog and recommended it to many clients who have all had varying degrees of success. The Nervatona (calm) is a new discovery that Rottshowgirl mentioned in another thread that I have since tried on myself, my dogs and some clients dogs with great success. I have seen it at most chemists and health food stores, it's cheap, easy to carry and easy to administer I agree with Miranda, I don't think Clomicalm would be the best thing for your situation. I wouldn't be using a sedative like valium either as some vets tried to prescribe for my dogs anxiety. It blocks short term memory meaning they might be non reactive in the ring but wouldn't learn anything long term from the experience.

Yikes, raw rice? I wouldn't be feeding it in that case! I used to buy a metloaf type thing from my local butcher and feed in conjunction with RMBs but I wasn't 100% happy with it (was very fatty) so I switched to buying mince seperately and mixing it with Vets All Natural complete mix. The only problem I have with this is having to soak it for 20 hours before feeding so I'm intending to try a similar mix made at Brown's Animal Herbs (i think that's the name) that doesn't require soaking. Rexy thanks for the heads up re: IGA, I'll be going to check them out today! If anyone else know where to get turkey (on the bone) I'd love to hear about it

I agree, much better than the pubic buying PAL en masse