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First of all congratulations on your new pup - and your one to come! You must be so excited! There are quite a few things to say. Do follow "introduction protocol". Even though they will both be young when they meet, your first dog has had the time to be well-adjusted in the household and become an only child! They might not just automatically play and be happy together. When bringing Pugsley home, have your OH bring Ridgie to neutral ground like friend's place and introduce them there. I would suggest a park but there's the worry of unvaccinated puppies in public places. ;) Introduce them and let them play a little bit and supervise very closely. Hopefully they will have a good time together. Do keep them apart at home and gradually increase their time together. Which is where I'll come to my next point: there is a huge size difference between a Ridgeback and a Pug. Play MUST be supervised - all the time, especially when they are both babies and silly. Ridgie will not realise his strength and Puggy is only little and easily damaged (even if Puggies are tough lil' critters! ) I'm not saying don't let them play together but do watch them closely. The next thing is to make sure they have "alone" time - away from eachother and you. And also some time of individual attention from you - it's harder with 2 pups than you think! ;) Even at this early stage, I strongly suggest crate training for ridgie and then a crate for Puggy when the time comes too Crates will make your life so much easier especially as you will have 2 puppies to try to deal with. It's like a little cave for them - a bedroom, a place to have "downtime". Do a search on crate training and you will find all the info you need to give it a go. Best of all, it means you can take their bedrooms with you on holiday or to the vet or whatever and know that your babies are safe and happy :rolleyes: For obedience/puppy school there will really have to be one handler per dog. (The same when going for walks at this early stage in life. Later on when they are both accustomed to their leads an hanve manners, it will be easier to take two at once. Size is also an issue there because Puggy only has little legs which don't goas fast or reach as far as Ridgie legs!) Both breeds are readily trainable, bright dogs so there is no problem with obedience training! Both breeds do well in the ring. Encourage OH to take one pup and you take the other - swap around so that there are no heirachy issues - you and OH are the bosses and the pups come down the list If it's really impossible to have OH there, then take the pups one at a time. Perhaps start Ridgie off first as he's older and then do some work at home with Puggy until he can go into the next class available. Puggy can sit in his crate and watch as well ;) :D There are loads of little things I have missed here - no doubt! But hopefully this will give you a starting point.

OK. Food. Make sure whatever you feed her that it is PUPPY food. Puppy food is especially formulated for puppies with a higher fat, higher protein content which is vital for little growing bones. Make sure you get "PUPPY" everything That is not a marketing ploy. I don't even care if you feed her Pal Puppy - just make sure it's PUPPY! Puppy biscuits are softer and smaller than adult dog biscuits. If she really hasn't got a tooth in her head at the moment, then soak them in warm water or PUPPY milk. If she's happy to drink water then leave it at that. The proper Puppy milk is a fine product but never give cows milk. She won't drink a lot of water because she is a little puppy and it's also cool weather at the moment. Back to the bikkies - if she can chew at all, keep up with the unsoaked biscuits - the hardness of them help to clean her new teeth coming through and if she's not chewing bikkies, she will be chewing on something else (just like a human baby :D). You can get her those dentasticks for puppies or a chicken wing - either of which will also clean her teeth and soothe aching gums. I don't like the idea of the dog roll for a puppy. Once again, they do not manufacture them specifically for puppies. Get some proper puppy food and change her over to it asap. Most people here on DOL prefer to feed Premium dog foods like Eagle Pack, Hill's Science Diet, Eukanuba etc or they feed a BARF system (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food). Do look into these foods and diets and make an informed decision as to what is best for your new baby and what is best for you. Many of these products offer puppy formulas. BARF is excellent but does require a lot of comittment. Many BARF ingredients can still be used as treats or extras in dinners. Do a search here on DOL - you've got a LOT of reading to do! In typical fashion the pet shop obviously did not give you a diet sheet. Did they tell you what she was being fed while in her window box? You should keep up whatever diet she's currently on and if you want to change it make sure you do it slowly so her little digestive system doesn't get all screwed up - runny bottoms are not nice ) Gradually add the new food in with the old over the space of a week - 10 days until changeover is complete and do it one product at a time. The temptation with a new puppy is to buy every product in sight in the hope that your puppy will "like" it. In reality, if you just feed a good balanced diet and don't fuss with food, your pup will not fuss with food. Puppies are only meant to eat, sleep and poop! Do the research just like you would with human babies :rolleyes:

Yes. If the roo is fit for human consumption, then use it. Keep up the worming schedule and you'll be right. I'm still a bit dubious about the fresh-killed wild rabbit/hare though.. rabbit/hare fit for human consumption is not wild caught - they are farmed under special conditions so that they have NO exposure to wild rabbits because of the calicivirus and miximatosis.

Sorry, I didn't clarify the pooping in the crate thing What I meant was, you could put her litter tray in one end and bed at the other - keep her confined to the crate overnight but still give her somewhere to "go". In the long run, it's better to have the litter tray wherever you want it but I was just thinking of overnight accidents until she can be trained to go outside. Crates are fantastic - you know she's safe when you leave the house ie NOT going to chew on a cord and electrocute herself or create general chaos when you're not there to supervise. Also fantastic for trips in the car and vets etc. I find my crates to be invaluable for my dogs.

We feed roo and have fed rabbit (but the dogs really didn't like it). I always buy human grade meat for my dogs as it does not contain Sulphur Dioxide (I think that's the chemical) which keeps the meat looking "red". That's the stuff usually sold as "Pet meat - not for human consumption". But if you can get a good butcher rather than the supermarket, they can make you up some great pet meat. Problem with rabbit is that it's too expensive here in Qld (you know, because we don't HAVE any rabbits in Qld ) I wouldn't use roadkill because of risk of worms, particularly hyatid tapeworm plus the rabbits now have calicivirus which I don't want to take any chances with personally Kangaroo is particualarly good for fat dogs as it's the leanest meat available I've never had any problems feeding either to my dogs

Pantene does work pretty well but doesn't give as good a finish as what I'm currently using You should also make sure you use the clarifying shampoo with it, once every couple of washes. Pantene tends to build up on the coat so you have to strip it out of the coat before adding more. If you don't you will notice the coat becoming "heavy". That's what I found anyway. Many of the top groomers use Pantene. Animal House worked well one one of the girls but not the other - a lot of the Lhasa people are using it and I've got to say, their Lhasas looks awesome ;) Never had the trouble of drying my dogs after using Laserlites. Was it diluted properly? I need such a tiny amount that once diluted the cost of the product makes it worthwhile on a tight budget! And afterwards she looks just beautiful! You've just got to find something which works and then keep using it until it doesn't All trial and error

Congratulations on your new baby Electra There is a strong possibility that Electra is younger than 8 weeks You just never know when you get a pup from a pet shop. This *could* explain the extreme clinginess you are describing BUT maybe she's just enjoying all the attention she's getting now that she's out of a horrid window box Just be consistent in whatever you do with her. You have received great advice about her sleeping arrangements and I too, strongly suggest a crate, especially as there are no fences and that there are kids who *might* leave a door open. It gives a little one a place of their own to retreat when they want to. If you get a slightly bigger crate, you can divide it in half so the hopefully she will do her business at one end and sleep at the other. It makes cleaning up puppy poopy messes a lot easier. I do not suggest you toilet train for outside at this stage, especially with no fences. The changeover later on will be a little confusing for her but can be achieved with patience and a few accidents once she can go outside. To me she looks like she is going to get a lot bigger - going by her growthplates in the pics plus the fact that she does NOT have a Chihuahua head Who knows what she will end up looking like I'm sure you will love her just the same One thing no-one has mentioned is worming. Do take her to your vet (there will probably have been some sort of 3 day health guarantee too). Get her fully checked over, take their advice on food - get a quality product from the vet, and ask them about worming, vaccination and desexing. Write a list of any questions before you go so you can remember. Good luck with Electra ;)

Well, I think my dogs' long hair gets more attention than mine Have tried various things but at the moment, I'm back onto Aloveen for one of my girls and just started with Laserlites Silk for my other girl. I've also used Plush Puppy with good results but I prefer my current stuff. Have some silk diluted in a spray bottle to spray on before brushing

Having a "friend" over is also a great suggestion Just make sure the dog is not too aggressive or dominant over your pup and yes, introduce them slowly.

Hi Tilly's mum Welcome to DOL :D If you have a look down the "puppy Problems" page, you will see that there is another thread called "How long before taking them out after 1st vaccination" - I'm sure you will find all your answers there

No growling from me :D I have experienced life with an "underage" puppy - also 5 weeks old when I got him - pound puppy who was thought to be 12 weeks and he came desexed! So, what you're describing is definitely not unusual for a pup that's had more contact with humans during his key "dog socialisation" period (up to 8 weeks is when they learn their doggy manners from Mum and their littermates.) During this crucial period, your puppy was with humans and so bonded to humans rather than dogs. However, your puppy playing with Mum's kitten, indicates that pup is on the right track - even though it's a cat! You mentioned that the other puppies were a lot bigger than yours at preschool - it is probably beause your pup is actually younger than the other pups ie. he is 12 weeks old and the others were probably 16 weeks(?) and maybe you have a smaller breed of dog? Either way, I would find *little* pups to play with - he might still consider himself to still be that little 5 week old pup - a little bit emotionally backward because of age of separation from his litter. Definitely take up the trainer's offer - an excellent idea and great that it will be free. Your puppy does need more puppy socialisation and next time round, it more likely to be his proper age group and maybe a couple of smaller breeds in the next class. Don't fret about it - your pup will come around. Just be patient, understanding and don't force him - it will come naturally Edited to add - with the growling at other dogs. Try having 2 people at training with you - someone else familiar holds your pup while you make a fuss of and play with the other puppies (if their owners don't mind). The person holding your puppy gradually allows the pup to come closer and closer on the lead until he's "playing" as well and joining in the fun. Any sign of aggression and he is removed from the situation again by the other person. Don't push it - only a short amount of time - and run the idea past your trainer first. Make sure you engage in the same sort of "play" with your puppy at home so when he is at training he associates the game with home and "fun". Hope this helps.

Please do a search here on DOL This is a very common issue and there are loads of threads with heaps of different suggestions

If everything has been ruled out, she MUST have been bitten by something..... Nekhbet - get into your crate Why is she being treated with antibiotics if there is no infection? Looks like the main thing is to soothe the area first and foremost. Get her some sort of anaesthetic cream/spray. Or something which REALLY DOES work is Swedish Bitters. Just put it in a spray bottle and use liberally. Looks brown and will stain the coat but it should be a lot better within a few days. If it doesn't work then go back and get the bloodwork done as suggested.

Hmmm.... Got me beat! :D Does her behaviour change when she's having those "flare-ups"? Or is she her regular happy self? When she eats regularly (and is not sick), does she usually leave some food in the bowl? Or does she eat everything you give her in the bowl? Is she fed only once a day? Or a couple of times? (Sorry if you've already said something about that.)

Although tinned pineapple is usually the first port of call, unfortunately sometimes it doesn't work Have you done a search for the other poo-eating threads? There are heaps of suggestions that might help you out

Lordy Lordy.....how cute is that? Ying & yang - what a beautiful lil' pup I'm with Bellasperson - get her a crate or put her in a smaller area where she feels protected, safe and warm. Make it cosy and happy. Put a cover over it but leave one side so she can see you. Make sure you are at home when you do this. Make it routine and not just for when you are leaving the house. Toys. Give her dinner in there. Make it the best place she's ever been :D HER place! Start off with short time - just dinnertime then let her out, for 5 minutes while your hanging out the washing - then let her out. She can cry but you will ignore it. 2 minutes, 3 minutes, 5 minutes.... Don't let her out unless she's quiet. Wait for even a 2 second gap between howls - as soon as she stops crying, praise her, treat her - it must be an immediate response to being quiet! Lots of treats which she ONLY gets when she's being good in her crate. Don't coo at her or try to soothe her when she's howling - this only reinforces that howling is a great way to get attention. I know it's hard because she's only a baby but you do need to make sure that you are the boss and she will get all the attention in the world as long as she is quiet Congratulations!

Under the circumstances, I would also second the Eaglepack or the Ziwipeak. I've heard Nutro is also excellent but have not used it myself. Sounds like the chicken and Pal :D is working but curiously, Pal has fillers and well, she's obviously not allergic to chicken I'm going back to there being some sort of bowel/stomach blockage This would not show up in a blood panel unless there was a toxin build-up in her organs (kidneys/liver). Perhaps a lazy valve in her stomach leading to her intestine or something? I'm not a vet by the way...but you say she has always been a bit chucky? This leads me to believe that it might have recently become worse - perhaps due to her age? What's coming out the other end if she's not digesting her food?

I'm North of brissy now and thankfully, blessed with 2 particularly good vets who are willing to go that extra mile :rolleyes: I've heard that West Chermside is the best place to go because they have all the specialists there but are quite expensive (well, they are specialists, I guess) and a bit rushed. By all accounts a thorough clinic and I don't know of any clients who have been unhappy with their service. Whoops! Sorry.

Supercoat can do it My Butters could definitely clear a room (if she could get inside ) but I've now changed to Eaglepack as well and no lovely smells Also I'd be adding yoghurt to their diet 'cos it ups the ante with digestive system and introduces the good bacteria. Get plain, natural (one of the better brands with Acidophillus etc) and give them a good tablespoon mixed in with their dinner. :rolleyes:

Isbrec, this is an extremely common problem with many solutions If you do a search here on DOL, you will find HEAPS of threads about this issue An easy quick-fix is to try feeding your puppy a small amount of tinned pineapple in his dinner (only a small amount - don't try giving him/her huge chunks :p). Failing that, do the search and you'll find many good ideas

Reading all these has reminded me of everything my Tashi has managed to destroy is the last year :p Mobiles and remotes among them But I can add one item that no-one else had mentioned Tash manged to pull the fire extinguisher off the wall, remove the safety band (metal) from around it, drag it up onto the couch in the next room and did everything except actually pull the pin We had to laugh Imagine if she'd actually got the pin out She also took a liking to destroying plastic Chinese containers and the week after the fire extinguisher we came home to find the about 7 seven holey containers strewn around the room and the microwave balancing precariously on the edge of the dishwasher :D She had tugged on the cloth beneath the microwave to pull the containers off the shelf! Very clever So clever she now gets locked up in a bare room with a bone and that's IT! :p

Cold and scared Poor baby No brothers & sisters. No Mum. No familiar faces. Just you. Do make sure you baby is nice and snuggly It's been getting pretty cold in most parts of Oz. Baby will get used to you but everything is just so damned scary for him at the moment Congratulations on your new puppy

Hey Blknwht, I see you are still having problems Back to this toileting thing....does she only use the litter box at night time? The scratching at the door may be her cue to outside to the toilet? She might not want to use the litter box anymore. Dogs don't like being near their own faeces/urine - even in the same room. It might have been ok when she was a younger puppy but now she knows there's somewhere better to go.... Also, at 5 months (now nearly 6?), this is the time when puppies realise they can manipulate their owners so perhaps she's just seeing how far she can push you before you let her back into the living areas of the house If that is the case, you just have to be tough (I'd still have her near me if she was my little baby ) The timing of this problem is a little tricky - 5 months the attachment issues come in, the toileting changes can happen and to top it off, it has been change of season (even if your girl is in the laundry in the house, the psychology says "get deeper into the warmth of the den") Sounds like it's driving you nuts Hope some of my suggestions might help

Sounds fine but I'd like to know how old the puppy is? Depending on the age, I would be toileting every 2 hours anyway....as long as puppy gets good active times as well, what you are doing doesn't sound like a drama at all Edited to add: Make sure he is quiet BEFORE letting him out of the crate or he will learn that if he whines, he will get out and about.

A couple of extra questions for you When she wakes during the night, does she have to go to the toilet? Do you try and see if she will go? Or are you just trying "control crying"? Is this a laundry out the back or is it an area inside the house? At 5 months of age, most dogs would be toilet trained quite well, but you must remember that this is a little breed and as such, has a little bladder, hence, needs to go more frequently. Try rationing drinks before bedtime and then don't leave a water bowl overnight. If your baby is asleep, it does not need to drink! Keep in mind that in Summer, Chins do suffer badly with the heat. Be prepared to do extra toilet runs during the night. If she has been emotionally happy in the laundry so far, I would say it has to be a physical thing. Also, you say there's no draughts but perhaps as the weather is getting cooler, she might need a jacket to keep her warmer at night (she is still only a baby). Personally, I find the smaller lap-type dogs are much happier if they are closer to you and I would have her basket upstairs - preferably in my room - if that's not good for you then maybe there is a room near yours upstairs that you could move her basket into? Tear staining is extremely common with this breed. Even the show quality dogs I've seen have some tear staining. It is purely a beauty preference and I wouldn't be too worried about it - it's not a health issue unless the eyes are also "gunky" or there is a bad smell. You could try adding a tiny amount of Apple Cider Vinegar to her water. The good cloudy stuff you buy at the health store. I say TINY amount because I'm assuming she would have a TINY water bowl. When you first start using it, if the dog can smell it, the dog won't drink it. I use 4 dessert spoons in 3 litres of water (built up the amount over time) to give you some idea of the dosage. She would only need like, 2 mls to start with building up to perhaps 2 yeaspoons - once again, it depends on the size of the wtaer bowl. This is a pretty old fashioned remedy but the idea is that it purifies any minerals or chemicals in the water and after about a month or 2, you will notice a reduction of tear staining. It has worked for my dogs Also wipe her eyes with a commercial tear stain removal product twice a day if it's really bothering you. They are all much of a muchness when it comes to ingredients and you'll probably find that the hydrogen peroxide is just as effective. Use a cotton pad rather than ball as little bits of the cotton balls can break off in the eye and irritate. Some people also use whitening toothpaste but hey - stick some of that in your own eye and see if you like it! PERSIST!! Most show people use chalk or other products to cover up a fair bit of tear staining - all smoke and mirrors Good luck with your Chin