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When you are looged in, you can see a buttom near the person's name and it says "PM" (Personal or Private Message). Or you can look at your messages in the top right hand corner of the screen. You hit "compose" a message and type in the person's name. It's a private message and only goes to them. Neem Oil is good. What about pennyroyal?

If he was desexed the other day then perhaps he was crated? He might've just rubbed his nose on the bars of the crate? Depends if he was being a sticky beak at the vet surgery LOL You might be going back to the vets to get stitches out? Just ask them when you go in

Miranda, I know that a lot of the Lhasa people are using it with fantastic success. I got some samples to use on my Havs but I really found that Laserlites was heaps better. Maybe I wasn't using the Animal House for long enough? Maybe the coat was just too different? I don't know... My Setter friend has tried a number of different ranges (don't *think* she's used Animal House yet) on her Irish but always seems to end back up with Plush Puppy - particularly the Seabreeze Oil diluted and sprayed through daily. Would be interested to know your results with the Animal House.

Also could be hormonal Miss Maddy - if she's just hitting the 12 month mark, perhaps a season is on the way? I've seen that before - a bitch with stunning black pigment but after her first season got "winter nose" her nose looked liver coloured or pinkish in colour. Winter nose usually goes away but hers never did. Is it possible she might have just taken a bit of skin off her nose? Oh, foodwise - what about Livamol? You can get it from produce stores and sprinkle a little on her food.

Maltesers, why are you waiting for harry's dermatologist to call you back or speak to you when this issue is obviously about the 2 dogs being vomiting, unwell and generally lethargic?? Totally different to the feeding issues and Harry's sore feet!! :D

Yep, you're doing the right thing - don't freak out but keep an eye on your dog particularly over the next few hours. You are looking for signs of pain and/or blood in the stool. (Poop may look black which is a sign of blood as well). Doggy should be ok though - these things happen! I would be having a stern talk to the neighbours

Well, I do! ;) And I also care about what my dogs eat! I also feed Nature Gift tin as treat every now and then. The dogs love it but I usually make them eat their veges before their McDonald's - if you get my drift But to the OP, if your dog gets a stinky butt after eating NG, then I wouldn't feed it Gross for you and a rumbly belly can't be fun for your dog either

Thank for all the replies! The hilarity was not something I was expecting! Thankfully, touch wood - the only times my girls chew their feet is when they've got Cobbler's Pegs stuck in their coat

Just asking the question makes it sound like I'm worried about it but honestly - I'm just curious With all the talk of allergies, red legs thread and the thousand on "itchy dog", "saliva stains" etc I did have a thought that paw licking and chewing could simply be itchy feet. What causes itchy feet - well, tinea does amongst other things Yes, yes, could be anything including allergy or anxiety etc etc But, particularly to the vets out there - Can dogs get tinea?

Yes, I try to sneak it into batches of mixed (BARF) that I feed. (Barley Grass Powder) I say "sneak" because I found that the dogs wouldn't touch it if I put say, a teaspoon into the mix. I had to put enough in till I could just see a bit of a green tinge in the food. BL has LABS so I guess they'll not even notice as it's rolling down the gob!! LOL! My reason was not because of cancer-prevention properties but because I heard it was good for tear/urine staining. I've since discovered that Apple Cider Vinegar works just as well. Seems my dogs don't like green food!

You've got some great advice here The only other thing I would add is that EVERYTHING must be in writing on the contract you sign. Just as an example, should everything run like clockwork for the arrangements you've mentioned above, what if the breeder has a litter from her and then wants another? Neither of you can really answer that yet. You say that it will be YOUR CHOICE for desexing when she's had one litter but what if you would like to breed her after that one litter? Would the breeder be open to that idea? Just saying that every detail needs to be on paper I'm currently involved in 2 agreements which enable the breeders to have one litter per bitch in their prefix and then the bitch is signed over to me to do what I want. The agreement means I show whenever I can, I pay - my terms. The bitches get mated with a dog of the breeder's choice, have a litter and then get signed over to me. I get a puppy of my choice from the litters. No money has exchanged hands for the dogs in question. I have to query the fact that you are paying for the dog as a pet, yet the breeder wants to run her on with a view to showing. Regardless of who is going to pay for shows, shampoos, upkeep etc, that's a lot to ask of someone who doesn't currently show and really only wants a desexed pet for agility and obedience. Also, there's the membership question of whose name the dog will be shown under (yours or hers) and transfer of papers back into the breeders' name when it comes around to breeding time. On the other hand, you say you think you would be interested in showing - that's great and I hope you love it and this could be a great way to get into it! But it sounds like a lot of hassle and I have to question the breeder asking you for the money if in essence she is keeping the bitch, getting her shown, promoting her prefix and then breeding from her. You get a nice pet out of it - nothing wrong with that - but it's a pet with a lot of strings attached. I feel that the breeder is getting the good end of the deal. After all, you could just pay pet price, the dog is all yours forever, forget the showing for now and concentrate on obedience and agility without the hassle of seasons, show dates conflicting with trial dates and paperwork! There are quite a few "ifs" in your situation and I feel you need to make sure every single "if" is covered under contract. As setterlvr said, there are many successful contracts but it doesn't always work for both parties so you must be careful. Good luck with it all

I give my dogs their main meal in the morning - purely for my own reasons - I prefer them to poop during the day outside At night they have papers for little accidents. Only for adult dogs - when they are young they get fed 2-3 times a day depending on age. :p I only feed my adult dogs once a day unless there's weight problem.

Hi Storm, How old is the Puli in question? If only a youngster, all that is required is brushing out for approx, the first year - even for show - so any groomer could do it for you. Also, if the dog is not for show, you can continue to have the dog regularly brushed out for the rest of its life! Most don't realise that pulis don't HAVE to be in cords but I understand that in the long-run, if you want that "look" of cords, it's a lot easier to maintain (except for bathing!! and strong avoidance of prickles!!) and you will need to get some help. I have a friend with Pulis on the Northside and they have CARPET DRYER to blowdry after bathing - getting them dry with cords takes absolutely hours!! I don't know of a groomer who has a carpet dryer in their shop lol! If a little older, and the need is there to begin the cording process, I agree with the other posters - your breeder will need to help you find someone up here privately who will help you out. I don't know of ANY groomers who can do Pulis off-hand and your chances of getting someone local are next to nil!! And during the cording process, it is a weekly job rather than a once-every-four-weeks kind of job so you would be going to the groomers on a very regular basis! I know the cords have to be separated each week during the initial cording process. There are some good webpages which show you how to do that but it's of no use if you are not in a position to be able to do it yourself. Have you checked out the Puli thread in the General discussion area? There might be someone in there who has further suggestions for you. Please PM me if you would like the details of my friend with Pulis. I hope you find someone and I'm trying not to sound negative but it's a big ask when you have a rare breed with very specific grooming requirements

Yes teething can make for smelly breath. But so can change of diet. The RC may not agree with your pup? I very much doubt that the chicken would do it and the bones will be good for something to chew on a soothe those lil' toofy pegs

Gawd - another plug for Advantix today Since starting to use it a couple of years ago, my dogs do not get fleas, they do not get ticks, they do not get bothered by flies, midgies, mozzies or anything Brilliant stuff! Another soothing treatment is Swedish Bitters available from your health food stores. I just apply it neat to the affected areas and no more scratching! And it will cost you less or the same as Aloveen (around $28 for a big bottle which will last you absolutely ages ) Aloe Vera is also another good one

I'm with peibe as well - Shibas are a rare breed so even if you just know the name or location of the previous owner, the Shiba breeders might be able to give you some great advice and background information. Yes! Absolutely! I'm all for raw feeding and you can make it easy on yourself by using any of the above ingredients. (Just suggested a premium kibble because that is also an easy option for gugububz ) Also, there is SO MUCH info on food that it can be confusing. gugububz - can you tell that none of so far think that Chum is great food!?! I think most people here on Dogzonline steer clear of supermarket brand foods. I do use some premium kibble in my dogs' food but their main diet is everything suggested by STITCH plus I use all different meats and bones and one of my dogs can't eat eggs. And I find that using my imagination and feeding raw food, I actually save a lot of money and I have 5 dogs! But you just figure it out for yourself gugububz - whatever is the best option for you and your new doggy CONGRATULATIONS BY THE WAY!! Does this new boy have a name? and where are the pics

Sorry, you were posting while I was typing A 10 month old should be ok on one meal a day depending on his body condition. Is he fat/skinny? Have you taken him for a vet check up? If you haven't, I would suggest a general health check and also discuss flea and worming regimes with the vet. The vet will be able to better assess his condition for you. Sounds like he's under a bit of stress from the move. Just give him a bit of time to adjust and get used to you, his new surroundings and FOOD Check out some of the premium kibble available. There are quite a few different brands and they do sound expensive to start with but you feed in much smaller amounts and they are packed with all the good vitamins and nutrition necessary for good health. Also pick up some cheap bones from the supermarket - usually around $3 for a big bag. Is there any way of finding out what he was fed previously? And do you know why the previous owners were rehoming him?

gugububz - there are many threads on DOL about picky eaters Do a search on fussy/picky eaters and also on different diets. There are so many different ways to feed your dog so you need to do a little reasearch to figure out what you reckon would be the best for you and your dog. Did the breeder give you Chum? If so, that is the food your Shiba is used to, so you shouldn't change the diet immediately. Once you find a good diet for your dog, change over gradually. Just personally, I don't feed supermarket brands as most contain a lot of additives and so it's kind-of like eating Mc Donald's all the time Your dog won't starve itself so just stick to one diet at the moment. He might be being fussy because of a change in environment and owner. Put the food down, leave it for 15 or 20 minutes and then pick it up and take it away. Don't feed anything else until next meal time. Depends how often you are feeding him as to whether or not you chuck it away but don't leave it sitting out all day and then expect him to eat it - just follow what you would do with your own food ie. refrigerate or store in an airtight container. How old is your Shiba?

Gotta laugh at your "Rosie Fry-up" Ummm...you're pretty stuffed until you can get the oil off the spot she's rolling in :D So -o- ye-who-should've-chucked-the-oil-somewhere-else-to-start-with....you'd better mow and then sprinkle some of that flour on the grass to soak up the oily patch. You could put flour on the dog (there's a joke about BATTER ) and I reckon that's your best bet though potato flour on even talcum would be better and neither are a long-term solution. You really need to bath her When you do, use a little dilute washing up liquid as this will strip the grease out and then condition well. :D Gotta be better than doggy smell!?!

Dash looks GORGEOUS!!! (Now, you just need a Retriever ) Hot as hell and snakes everywhere WS You'd be glad you've moved Excellent suggestions here I will say that Swedish bitters does contain a fair amount of (medicinal) alcohol but if you look at the rest of the ingredients, I don't think you can go past it. Smells a lot like Quititch actually! Aloe also works well but I found the dogs went from chewing themselves to licking all the Aloe off Had the same issue with anything oatmeal! Gawd - they'd eat anything

You could try a rolling comb - I don't know what other people call it The same size as Greyhound comb (coarse end) and each of the metal teeth rolls individually - it's just a little gentler than ripping through with a plain metal Greyhound comb LOL and it doesn't break the hair off. Any snags just kind-of roll through the comb and it makes it easier to get a slicker through afterwards. Sorry I think of a proper name - my brain isn't awake this morning

Extremely common problem (Especially in toy breeds) Do a search here on DOL and you'll find heaps of threads about it and a few extra suggestions Adding a little tinned pineapple to Sophie's food is the first port of call - the easiest and the cheapest - tastes bad for them the second time around This usually works but check for further info if it doesn't It's called COPRAPHAGIA :D

Bugger Cavnrott! Should've waited but I already ordered through priceless pets! :rolleyes: Nevermind - next time... Kymbo - thanks for your suggestion. I have heard of that trick but as most of my lot are only just 5kg, dividing a larger dose would be really overdosing them while the up to 4kg dose it too little to cover them.

Hi WS :rolleyes: Been a while ;) SWEDISH BITTERS - available from any health food store and sometimes supermarkets. Around $28 a bottle for 500mls. "Health through God's Pharmacy" I now swear by this after persistent itchies with my dogs (and helps humans too!). Tried all the vet products to no avail. I just swab it on itchy areas neat but if the itchies are all over on bigger dogs like the setters, I'd dilute it and use it as a wash. They will smell a bit "herby" and it's yellow/brownish and stains. You won't notice it on the red dogs LOL but keep them off the cream sofas! My pup had itchy ears - no mites or other nasties - scratched them until they were bloody and scabby. Just a mess. Someone reminded me of this product and I just whacked some on whenever she scratched them. The effect was immediate - no more scratching and the scabs were healing nicely within a day or 2 with no further interference from sharp little nails. You do have to be persistent so it's a little labour intensive but no worse than using Dermaveen or any other topical lotion. TRY IT!

THANKYOU!! I'll go with Priceless pets - my GOD that's cheap! I knew it would be less but I had no idea! Pets On the Park would be a little too far from me - I'm North of Brissie - but thankyou for your suggestion also, jillybean