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Maybe you're the wuss! (I also brush my own hair with my pin brushes! ) All Systems PIN brushes, I like them, but as Ellz mentioned, they don't last long as the pins push back in at a rapid rate which is exceptionally annoying when you've just paid like $30 for a "good" brush and it craps out on you within the month! It took me 2 years and 4 long-coats before my PP pin brush got into a state like that and I think that was only because the rubber cushioning stuff that the pins are set into started to deteriorate. Try the PP brush again

I've given frozen too with no ill effects. I think the reality is the wings defrost on the way down!

I've also found the PP pin brushes to be amongst the best and least expensive. The arm test is if it actually scratches your arm rather than how hard it feels against your skin. As the pins on the PP pin brush are all individually ground which is the best possible scenario, I'm curious to know if your pins on that brush are actually scratching?? I always test slicker brushes like that. Anyway, an alternative pin brush which I like is long pin Chris Cristensen brush 'cos it works well on the coats I have here. I tend to use All Systems #1 Slickers. Hope this helps!

Hey Havahug! Lowenhart's mum makes GORGEOUS crochet snoods for the Lowchen and they fit really well on the Havs I'll see if i can get a pic of Panda with hers on Looks so adorable! Crochet ones are the way to go as I've found that some of others with the elastic slip back over the head more often.

If the Advantix isn't the way to go (I LOVE Advantix!) then IMHO, go with the Killtix collar. They are better than the Preventic collar simply because they can get wet - if your dog swims, it's a pain to be removing and replacing collars when you can just put on a Killtix collar And if you only need to treat for ticks once in a while, a collar would be a less expensive option.

Honestly, if he's definitely not in pain, leave it alone and keep an eye on it for infection. I have a bitch here with a snapped canine and she's had it for over a year without issues. She does not appear to be poorly or in pain of any kind, eats on that side of mouth, chews on her bones etc. The tooth is snapped off at the gumline. No problems so far. If you haven't been to the vet, go and have a consult about it but don't operate unless it's necessary.

If you haven't already chucked the meat, I'd be calling a health authority and finding out where you stand. You should definitely be able to get your money back under the circumstances - throwing away $40 worth of human grade meat is nothing to sneeze at!! And yes - really weird that the cats wouldn't eat it!! Cats have got iron stomachs!!

Hi Moggy, I know you said you have tried EVERYTHING but have you tried using Dog Rocks in Sophie's water?? I've got terrible tear staining with my current puppies (probably temporary due to teething) but I'm now trying this out as some very experienced "white dog" breeders suggested it. I had never heard of it before (for tear staining) but this might help in the future? Just a suggestion.

Aaagh Jemappelle - Maybe next Xmas?? ;) You only get pressies if your nice and not naughty ;) ;) This boy is going to a dear friend of mine who needs a lovely companion ;) He will be spoilt rotten! ;) Thankyou for the recommendations :rolleyes:

Thanks for the tips guys! And c'mon CBL - a greyhound would look great in a poodle clip!! Now don't be shy if you're reading this and want to recommend yourself!

Has anyone got recommendations for a good groomer in the Woolongong area please? I am sending a pup down (pet pup) and the owner intends to clip him. Just want someone who's not going to clip to the skin and is good with fluffies Thanks

I am currently using Aqua Ear on my bitch - my vet says it's fine and we lamented the fact that Leo Ear Cleaner is no longer on the market !! I don't find EpiOtic to be anywhere near as effective and there's no way it dries out my bitches ears (which is what I need for her atm.) Apparently Aristopet also has an alcohol based ear cleaner on the market but I am having difficulty finding it. My bitch has a malasezia (sp?) issue and despite treatment with Malaseb and Epiotic (plus I've tried a number of other products in recent months), her ear canal is still moist. She has just whelped so the vet suggested Aqua Ear until she and the babes are old enough to move (go to the vets) and have some form of cortisone. Good news is, it seems to be working and she is scratching heaps less. In saying all that, if your dog has an ear infection, there is strong possibility that there is broken tissues in his ears - adding alcohol to broken skin would sting like crazy so I would only recommend using an alcohol based product after swimming AFTER his infection has cleared up! Hope this info helps

Got mine from petstock Got another bag on Friday and they still had the same special on

Well, I got my big bag of Eaglepack yesterday and I got my "special" about which I am quite pleased.....20% extra in the bag for the same price :rolleyes: :rolleyes: I'm also on the breeders programme which entitles me to my tenth bag for free

Feed the mince RAW! :rolleyes: DEFINITELY!!! As for the necks, if she swallowed it whole, try a wing or a frame :rolleyes: (And you can have a look at my other post about chicken necks which is up at the moment

Shoshana!! Rosie SO CUTE!! (See my TT Tashi in my avatar pic :D ). I'm with persephone on this issue. I've never had a problem with chicken necks until recently...I have one young (toy) pup who absolutely vacuums up necks!! :rolleyes: They are obviously the same size as his oesaphagus and swallows them whole He screams as they go down - I remember swallowing a whole ice cube accidently once and the pain as it went down was extraordinary! :D Short answer is - I am only giving the pups something they HAVE to chew which is bigger than a neck - I give wings as a minimum but they have a great couple of hours devouring a frame! :rolleyes:

Lowenhart, I am trying to remember if there was any issues about microchipping when I went to Alice Hampson at Albany Creek with Tashi. I really don't think so.... I want to get my little babes done and I don't want to chip them when they are still so little.

Being in a very bad tick area (paralysis) I've gotten quite good at picking up on tick symptoms. I've had one dog who went down in a matter of hours when he got a tick and one recent case where my bitch got a tick and it was fully engorged and thus had been on her at least 10 days with no symptoms whatsoever! Had to go to vet with her 'cos we came home and noticed her all wobbly in the rear end. Straight away looked for the tick and got it off within the hour. By that stage she was in a really bad way and had to undergo the whole tick treatment and hospital for 3 days . But there were no symptoms for the whole 10-11 days previous! Interesting what Greytmate said about the greys because the dog I had who always went down fast was also a large dog - Wolfhound X so perhaps larger breeds do get affected more quickly? All that said, after losing 2 dogs in 5 years, I did find Advantix and until recently with my bitch going down, had never had a single problem with insects again! I hadn't been applying Advantix over the Winter months but the warmer snap we had brought them out early according to my local vet. So, even with being very experienced now, I still stuffed up :p Check your dogs over every day!

Now now Elkhound people! ;) My dogs all get a natural diet PLUS a little high quality kibble. (Eagle Pack atm) I am in agreeance with Norskgra's version of the scientific issue of "eggs" ie white is balanced by the yolk :p That said, if you are having an issue with one dog eating whole raw eggs, then trying a little cooked egg is good alternative - this is what is recommended to kids with egg intolerance. Allergy is different and egg is not recommended for children or people if they have an egg allergy. HOWEVER - I have one dog who if she even gets a minute amount of any kind of egg, is vomiting for the next 48 hours. ;) Time and time again this happens - at first we thought she was getting ticks and we rushed her off to the vet. After it happened the fourth time, we clicked as to what was happening. Even if she has kibble with egg component, she starts vomiting!! ;) So she is the only one of our dogs who has absolutely no egg and a specially prepared diet so she doesn't accidently get egg. Egg intolerance can be overcome at a young age (same with most intolerances) by introducing tiny amounts of the "irritant" when they are pups. In every pup I've had here, I make sure there is a large variety of food for them to try from a young age - yes, some get runny bottoms but they get over it in a few hours or days and by the time they leave here, they can basically eat anything a new owner wants to throw at them! A couple of "older" breeders have mentioned to me how many dogs these days are "intolerant" to so many foods. Maybe it's because we owner/breeders have become more educated about nutrition or maybe it's because the environment in general is breaking down and creating more problems - who knows - these breeders say that in the past, with dogs getting leftovers, table scraps, god forbid COOKED bones plus lots of butchers offcuts - they never had these problems with their dogs. Perhaps dogs are getting as sensitive as their humans Anyway, I don't want to start on about nutrition and dogs - we've got enough of those threads here on DOL ;) But Norskgra - if you're having problems with this one girl, just try the cooked egg (maybe HALF a cooked egg scrambled!) and see how you go. She might get better at eating egg orperhaps she will never be able to eat them. I do believe dogs can be intolerant or allergic to egg :p

What breed Smugacrest? "Drape coat" could mean anything from a Lhasa to an Afghan to a Setter - and I'd probably treat all coats differently! What products have you tried and what is the result that you would like to achieve?

Actually FGM, I don't know where you live but there are 2 courses availale in the Greater brisbane region - Ithaca Tafe at Red Hill is the major one and that course has been running for years!! Andalso there's a grooming salon at Redcliffe which runs private courses. I've heard the Redcliffe course is expensive but good - mind you, the rates would be similar to what you'd end up spending in Tafe fees. That course is part of an operating salon so sourcing dogs to clip would not be an issue. The Tafe course - I've heard both good and bad - I looked into that myself but decided I would definitely learn a lot more about breed clipping if I could wangle a coupleof days with experienced exhibitors in each breed. However, I happen to personally know one of their latest recruits and she is a fabulous groomer/breeder/exhibitor so I'm sure that the standards of her students will be quite high. I don't know that you could possibly learn to clip all those breeds in 10 days!! You might hope to glean a tricks here and there for each breed but in the end, it's just another piece of paper. I also believe in industry training but it has to be inclusive of the experience levels currently in salons rather than training up newbies in opposition to current methods. I remember the same thing happened in human nursing - hospital trained nurses were valued more highly than university trained - simply because they had the knowledge AND the first-hand experience of day-to-day nursing. Now we have such a high demand for nurses, the system doesn't mind where you trained LOL!! Master Groomers needs to be freely available everywhere (for a small cost) and then the industry would be cleaned up immensely. Or else, take it into the real world and offer proper accredited apprenticeships like hairdressing - 3 years and you're qualified but unless you're good, you won't be runnng your own salon for quite a while - after you've had the experience. Some thoughts.

Not eating BAMBI???!!! Are you guys CRAZY!!! Venison is absolutely DELICIOUS!!! Geez, just because Walt Disney didn't make a movie about cows...... :laugh: Realise that the Elkhounds alerted to Moose ;) I always think "traditional" under these circumstances -Newfoundlands, PWDs and a lot of other "sea-faring" or "ice" dogs always got a lot of fish in their diets - just out of necessity. No doubt Elkhounds did as well but if Moose was the hunting game, no doubt they would have recieved the off-cuts? When I first got a Tibetan Terrier, I emailed this guy in the US to inquire as to how he manages to feed a vegetarian diet to his dogs and why. He told me it was it "traditional" as Tibetans were Buddhists and as such were vegetarians so didn't kill animals to feed their dogs!!!! What a load of codswallop!!!! If you looked at the history of the breed or any Tibetan dog, although Tibetans are indeed Buddhists, the vege factor is complete BS. Tibetans DO eat meat *still* (or anything they can get their hands on) and Buddhist/vegetarian thing has only been a principle of Buddhism during the last couple of hundred years whilst the breed is said to be around 2000 years old!!!! Point being, this guy is completely sucked in by Western Buddhism ( no offense to the religion whatsoever - I have many Buddhist friends and we have discussed this principle a length). AndWestern Buddhism dictates a vegetarian diet. Don't want to completely get into a discussion about religion so I'll leave it there. Just fascinating how some people think. Goat is good Norskgra. Just make sure the actual cut you get is not fatty. We have eaten our own goats (AGAIN FOLKS - DELICIOUS!!! ) and if they have been desexed as young males, they can be very fatty. Cheers ;)

Dare I say it Norskgra..... VENISON! :p :p You know me.... Seriously venison is low in fat as well - suprised about the kangaroo factor but there you go - all dogs are different. Crocodile and emu are also incredibly low in fat and full of the good oils but I don't like your chances of finding those Good luck with your girly!

Yes, I have fed bone dust in the past It's incredibly rich and concentrated so if you do use it, only a little at a time. My partner fed it to the dogs like it was mince and BOY did they get the runs! I'm with Miranda - give them a nice juicy bone.

And doesn't parvo last like 5 years in the ground or something??!! With all this recent equine flu, we were basically told that all the horses WILL get it - it's just a matter of time. It can float in the wind for up to 5 km and they reckon even further!