yarrr

Had a setter as a kid but cant really comment However heres my thoughts on pointers No doubt I'll upset someone :D Show line EP Good option for a pet but majority not suitable for working Pretty good conformation Lower drive Nervous/soft Some grass allergies crept into lines Working line 100% bird dogs but would excel at most dog sports High tail set / short back = bad for certain sports i.e sledding however Smaller Mixed hard/soft nature but more drivey Ofcourse these are generalisations and you might find a dog thats atypical Always comes down to what you want

Ruffwear has rediculous prices imo I really like these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-Metal-Dog-Cat-Pet-Glowing-Flashing-LED-Safety-Light-Collar-Tag-Pendant-AU/182355655895?hash=item2a753e7cd7:m:mvczmB_o1BRVxNFrPmkIAyQ They clip onto collars and seem to last a few months (turns out they are even waterproof). I've tried other things but $1.30-$1.50 is hard to beat

Most dry food is 50% rice, potato and peas... dunno how anyone can honestly call this high quality food. Best way to compare brands is to take a quick look at the ingredients. The ingredients in royal canin are pretty scary to me! MFM is usually the cheapest of the 'better brands' per kilo if you buy the 20kg bag. Ivory coat has lower carbs, uses tapioca as main filler instead of potato but is more expensive. I actually like the ingredients in the new blackhawk working dog formula.

Not sure I would want a GSP if i was about to retire. Great working potential but way too much energy and drive. Most of the EPs I have met tend to be similar but less intense so you might as well throw their english cousins in the mix.

Isn't the problem simply people ignoring the standards and breeding for exaggerated features? I only have a basic understanding of structure so if i can see obvious problems in a large percentage of breeds then something must have gone seriously wrong When looking for another pup I had a few of the gun dog breeds in mind I went and looked at a couple weims but decided to eliminate the whole breed because all breeding stock had massively overbuilt chests. This might look good in a trot but its not good for running long distances which is what I wanted. If you go back and read the standards it says 'well developed chest' not 'monster like dinosaur sized chest'. I could go on about a few other breeds but this post will probably end up sounding like a personal whinge :P

they are completely useless unless you are talking about proper hunting trackers

elastoplast spray plaster is really good for paw cuts (as long as its not super bad)

Can anyone hazard a guess as to the number of people currently competing in Australia? I have noticed huge growth in other dog sports so this is purely for curiosity

Heres my 2c from someone that owns 8 harnesses (and 2 gsps ;) ) Harness: Non stop free motion It fits the GSP body shape perfectly and does not move sideways (big problem when doing singletrack on a bike) Costs about $90 but is well worth it Neck size does run a little bit small so if you are close to the upper limit go the next size up If you want to do canicross events in the future (warning fun and addictive!) The sled dog association has some overprotective rules that eliminates certain belts and lines Short version of the rules is that you cant have metal on the drivers end of the line Line is also meant to be a minimum 2m but I've never heard of anyone checking or questioning lengths Belts: Honestly theres really not much difference in designs (except for pockets etc) I've had my windchill belt for a year and theres zero signs of wear All of the sledding brands have been designed to satisfy racing rules so if you stick to one you will be fine Non Stop, Zero DC, Howling Dog, Manmat are all sold in aus Lines: Typical canicross line is 2m long You might find this to be a bit too long for a dog thats not trained yet (some belts can add an additional 20-40cm) Similar to belts theres even less differences between running lines The more technical trails you do the shorter you want the line to be (more control) I'd just order it with your harness or belt to save on postage. With our young pointer we are using an ezy dog leash with bungee for training (just walking atm but teaching commands and getting used to harness) Aussie Stores: Non Stop Australia WA Mushing Supplies AUS Sled Dog Supplies Windchill Manmat/Kostka Can find em with a google or facebook seach

Good thing about buying older is that breeders are usually happy to offer a trial to see if everyone gets along. I prefer to buy 6-18 month old dogs and have not had any real trouble. Males seem to blend in easier whereas bitches want to climb the pack hierarchy. Might get minor issues but this is no different to puppies. Can't comment on German Shepherds but I paid about half to two thirds of normal puppy price.

Everyone that I spoke to would handle everything except for arrival in Aus Everythings organised now. My 'partners' christmas present will be arriving first week of the new year ????

Some of the emails I got were really confusing. Under $1000 SAC Declaration required No GST or duty $115 per submission from a customs broker or $209 to register for a 2 year digital certificate so you can diy Over $1000 Import form required (can diy) GST + duty on purchase cost plus transport costs

Spoke to a broker and its based on value of goods I've ended up going with a broker as it will be easier and cheaper than getting my own digital certificate

Is that because the animal is for breeding purposes or the value of the dog is over $1000? I haven't had a chance to call customs yet but I did manage to sneak in some more reading today My interpretation is now that GST is not due when the value of the dog is under $1000 However in order to lodge a SAC declaration I will have to pay a customs broker or get my own digital certificate https://www.border.gov.au/Factsheets/Documents/importinganimals.pdf https://www.border.gov.au/Importingorbuyingfromoverseas/Documents/self-assessedclearancesacdeclarations.pdf

But will I be expected to pay gst?