mowgliandme

Yay – glad it is not exclusive and will come in time! :) I was afraid we had trained her to be completely neutral to us coming home. (Im home most of the time anyways so not super relevant for now)

Balance between preventing separation anxiety and a “not excited to see you” puppy? I’ve had my puppy for two weeks now and she is doing tremendously well – shes pretty much toilet trained (2-3 accidents were due to my negligence in taking her out when she asked), doesn’t have separation anxiety and is quite happy playing on her own. We have been following these tips for preventing separation anxiety and raising a well mannered pup: leaving her alone for short periods of time with great chew things and toys, only coming back in the room when she is quiet, we are using a puppy play pen when we cant supervise her, not giving her any attention when she jumps up, having neutral greetings and departures etc from the following two sites: https://www.animalhumanesociety.org/training/ill-be-back-really-preventing-separation-anxiety http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/4_7/features/Separation-Anxiety-Behaviors_5374-1.html But to me and my partner, one of the best parts of having a dog is the super happy greeting when you come home – will this get rid of that entirely? What can I do so that she is still happy on her own but still runs to the door to see us when we come back? (not jumping and making noise but some tail wagging would be so loved by us) Are they mutually exclusive? (if they are we want her to be happy more than our selfish greeting desires!)

Older dog has bitten the pup - he hasnt bitten her very hard (no holes or blood - shes fluffy too so hard to tell) and she still wants to play with him. I assume its similar to being nipped when playing rough with a littermate, they yelp, stop playing for a few seconds then go straight back to it. Except in this case its probably to teach her some manners like leave him alone when hes tired etc... Today they have had a really good play together and she was a lot more respectful towards him, not trying to jump all over his face when hes lying down - so hopefully shes gotten the message!

So I shouldnt remove her and let them figure it out?

My house mate has an older (probably 7-8 yo) mixed breed, fluffy 15kg dog – not sure on breed – most likely CKCS x poodle based on his super long ears. He has always been very gentle with everyone – never bitten any person or dog in his life and is super friendly towards people. He mostly plays fetch at the park and ignores other dogs, but has never been aggressive to them except occasionally on leash when walking where he will bark and lunge. He has never bitten another dog before. Since getting our new puppy he has been following her around and sitting nearby the puppy, he occasionally growls when she gets close. And she is completely oblivious to his body language and signals, very pouncy and playful even when he is clearly giving her the cold shoulder, looking away and ignoring her. We supervise all interactions between them and obviously remove the puppy from him in these situations, however there has been a few times where he has tried to play with her, play bow, wagging tail, bouncing back in a playful way and we have let her approach him a bit more. Twice they have had a round of chassey where he runs in big circles (both chased and chasee)… And twice after his playful approach (split second after she approaches) he can go stiff and not want to play anymore, he has growled and when she didn’t back off he has bitten her! There is no food or toys involved in these situations. She doesn’t seem to have any negative impacts of these bites…she yelps for less than 3 seconds and then goes straight back to trying to play with him, then we move her away. She is still as playful as ever but I don’t want her to become dog/fear aggressive – especially if she gets bitten in her fear period. I don’t think shes had one yet (she is almost 10 weeks and full of confidence) What should I do in these situations? I’m watching his body language like a hawk but its so sudden after he gives “waggly tail come play with me” body language? Do I prevent her from interacting with him at all? Or is this just an older dog putting a puppy in its place??

Sorry I didnt see your comment corvus - thats some great info - i'll be trying those things once shes a little older :)

Here she is! :) I cant seem to get the SLR camera pictures small enough so here is a quick phone photo! The Spotted Devil - I have removed the lure/treat (she is following hand signals for those things ...hasnt quite got it without hand signals for lie down but we are working on it and shes only 9 weeks) Thanks for all the advice everyone! :)

Ive bought her toys in every texture I could find and am rotating them around so she doesnt get bored -looks like she just loves the blanket more and she also seems to like the noises from biting the pen - i'm redirecting her to toys when i am there though! :) She is quite a small pup (going to be 8-10kg as an adult) she has pigs ears, a deer? antler, rawhide chews, and kangaroo tendons which she loves.... I dont think her teeth are big enough to eat meaty bones/chicken carcrasses though? she most of them are only 3-4mm long (apart from the canines which are probably double that) I have been using boiled chicken as treats at the moment

She is an absolutely wonderful puppy - and i wont be doing anything that harms her in any way! I cant figure out how to add a photo but its probably not allowed anyways as she is a breed in development (cobberdog) I didnt realize i was meant to let her bite the bed blanket, will she stop doing that on her own then? (I'll get her a snooza bed for now) I dont want to encourage her to bite things by calling her to me when shes biting and then giving her a treat (wont that make her think that biting things = treat?) Definitely not a fan of that puppy class, the shyer dogs seemed scared of the can and some were probably in their fear period (ages above 14 weeks) She is completely not fussed by loud noises like renovations, noisy roller doors, vaccum cleaners, motorbikes anyway (we've been doing a lot of socializing to that kind of stuff - creating positive associations, letting her explore things on her own, shes pretty calm and confident and doesnt give a damn about them anyways - so hasnt been hard) so I dont think the class will have a negative impact on her.

She has a soft blanket like thing at the moment for a bed, the pen is also metal Puppy is only in the pen for an hour to two hours at a time, if I have to go somewhere, usually she sleeps but sometimes she is chewing the bed or digging at the ground. She is played with and tired out before I put her in there and often trained in there so she has positive associations with it - doesnt whine much when I leave (we have been following our breeders tips for preventing separation anxiety)

I thought so too... i havent used the instructors training methods anyway The Spotted Devil - why dont you lure? Ive used it to teach sit, come, lie down and watch me very effectively...?

How do you train NO? so that it has a meaning? And what would be an appropriate punishment? The pup has a play pen when not fully supervised...there isnt anything dangerous in there for the puppy. Whats the best way to prevent the puppy biting its bed or the play pen or the puppy toilet or scratching the floors (in a digging manner)? I cant remove the playpen or the floors from the situation, the puppy has lots of chew toys (even food filled Kong), pigs ear etc but seems to love biting those things instead?

The trainer shook the can to stop two pups who were playing roughly and also used it to deter the pups from stealing pigs ears Honestly I think that both of these situations could have been controlled with positive reinforcement training. i.e. calling their names/using better food lures than the food they were leaving!

I’ve enrolled the pup in a puppy pre school, which I made sure to ensure was not a “free for all” type one… but I made the mistake of assuming that most trainers are positive reinforcement only (cause that’s all I had researched) I have been watching kikopup a LOT …and her dogs are wonderfully behaved There is no pressure to use the trainers methods but she says that purely positive is not as effective and she worked with it for years – what are your thoughts? I personally would never hurt/use a choke chain/yank a puppy around but don’t know where to stand on using a rattle noise as the negative My pup is quite happy and confident, so not likely to be traumatised by her negative method - which is shaking a small noisy tin can as an interrupter/distractor for negative behaviour…and even slightly nudging the puppies with it if they are misbehaving/not listening at all (which was very effective in the class) My puppy is not afraid of the rattly noise, but does stop what she is doing. She is generally easy to manage, but for a couple of times of the day she gets very energetic for a few minutes at a time and doesnt listen (she normally falls asleep shortly after these crazy moments like a child getting over tired) We are hoping to do puppy school at Positive K9 after this and they have corrections too...but i don't know what they are yet. What is an acceptable correction? Is a rattle the same as saying "No!" to the pup?

Thanks Lazy Daisy and Papillon Kisses will check out Oakleigh Vet and those apps :) I will be taking her out and about from day 2 or so but not putting her on the ground? Just carrying her around places, sitting outside shopping malls with her in my lap, potentially pushing her around in a trolley if she's comfortable huski - does that include walks/on the ground? Ive called up a few vets and they have said they havent seen parvo in ages - I didnt specifically ask about the other dangerous diseases but think they would have mentioned it to me if they were around...

Love them! Thank you definitely going to keep all of that in mind :D 5 more sleeps :) Ive been looking for a vet that does the puppy vaccination where you only need two (not three) and can take them out and about at 10.5 weeks but I havent found any near me yet :/ (SE melbourne - near Chadstone) Do you take puppies out before all of their vaccinations...? Im getting conflicting info with socialization before 12 weeks (before she enters a potential fear period) and waiting for all the vaccinations I want to take her places (local cafe, shopping mall entrance, friends houses) and have her watch from my lap (she's fairly small) rather than be cooped inside for four weeks We have another (vaccinated) dog at home, who goes for walks (and marks where other dogs mark) and will play with her so unless im meant to keep them completely separated until shes vaccinated, if he steps on diseases on the grass i think they can end up on her anyways?

Those threads are great :) suziwong66 thanks for the answers - that really helped clear things up for me! I am a bit concerned about other people doing that too... and a lot of people have no idea how to approach or pat a dog at all :/ I was at a cafe and a lady had brought her CKCS puppy and everyone was just going straight for its face/head and it was clearly not very comfortable

Thanks everyone for the links :) I absolutely loved kikopups and training positive youtube channels (I may have watched them all – ooops!) And Ian Dunbars books too – looking forward to a month of puppy parties (with the aim of creating positive experiences for the pup not running a free for all crazy session) Any recommendations for a good puppy school? I am located near chadstone in Victoria and am happy to travel to give the puppy a great start :D I think Moorabbin obedience club has a puppy class which i assume would be a bit better than most because they are an obedience school? But I dont know anyone who has been there...

So many warnings! I do appreciate the concern - I am against back yard breeding and puppy farms and pet shops too, I am happy to learn more too! If there is any thing else i need to check about her, or the puppy - please let me know and I will gladly do so! I am not interested in promoting the breed on this forum (so I have listed no positives about them just the breeder) I’ve visited the breeder a few times and met at least 25 of her past pups (through external meet up groups for the cross breed and spoken to many of their human parents, great reviews) very happy with the puppy environment and the mother and father (they operate under a guardian home arrangement, so dogs are not sold off once they are past breeding age) She breeds for temperament also (calm and gentle, the kind that are good family pets or used as assistance and therapy dogs) which was confirmed at the meet ups She assesses temperaments and places the right dog for the right home (she knows what we are after but puppy allocation isn't til next week) She health tests the dogs for at least 15 common genetic diseases and only breeds dogs which are clear of them and are in the top 20% for elbow and hip dysplasia She socializes the puppies (around 100 people before 8 weeks) and does early neurosimulation, she also socializes them to different surfaces, locations (she takes them out in a baby stroller that they can see out of) If at any time someone cannot continue to take care of their pup she will take it back and assist with rehoming so that none of her dogs ever end up in the pound The puppies have started toilet training and know to sit for attention from people by the time they leave There are also a few prominent people on these forums that are trying to get this breed legitimized under the name cobberdog by the MDBA

Thank you for the links persephone - I am still reading them :) I'm not allowed to post the "designer" name on this forum... I agree those phrases are not normally in the same sentence but there are some out there (I am happy with this one after extensive research)

Hi everyone :) I've been reading the forums or a while now but just officially joined today - I am getting a puppy in 2 weeks (cross breed (multi generation (labrador x poodle)) so I won’t post photos but she is from a reputable breeder) I would like to be able to take her anywhere: camping, hiking, pet friendly accommodation, friend’s city apartments, country holiday houses, to cafes and parties. I want her to be able to settle down by my side and not toilet inside anyone’s house. So I’m hoping that teaching her to toilet on command will avoid any accidents so she can relieve herself before we go inside new places. Training questions… 1) Can we teach a puppy to go to the toilet on command if we only want to use it sometimes? When the dog is home, we have a doggy door and would like the puppy to go to the toilet anytime it wants in its designated spot, we will take the puppy there when teaching it both the location and the command etc. but after a few months we’d like the puppy to go there on its own. 2) However we would like that anytime she is outside the house, she only goes after the command, so we can take her anywhere and she doesn’t go where she shouldn’t. Is this doable or is the toilet on command only effective for people with apartments who HAVE to take the dog out every time…? What kind of socialisation do we need to achieve this...? I've read that there are people who want the puppy to have neutral value for other people, so that it ignores them on walks/at the park etc We would like our puppy to be comfortable and happy being patted by our friends but be able to settle down and not nag to get pats from random strangers... if thats possible! We will bring her crate/bed for the most of these so she can get away if she likes Any tips would be greatly appreciated!