squeak

Newbie here, so don't laugh too loud! When it happened in the ring (and this is probably a "training in the ring" thing, so I should do it?) I would have asked the dog to sit before releasing it. I would probably enter the Western Classic. Things I would do... - try to work out why the dog dropped - was it an extremely hot day and the grass was cool? Did dogs beside it move and it just followed? What was happening in adjacent rings? - I would try to recreate the trial conditions it happened in as much as possible and proof again - location, weather, dog breeds, position in line, time of day, etc - I would also proof specifically against dogs beside it moving

As PAX already said - the judge. I did the same with Faxon. Would tell him to stand for SFE and then leave when told to with giving an additional stay command. Every Judge commented or asked about why I didn't use a stay command. I explained that he didn't need it. He never broke his SFE. Bear. Thanks for that. Can I ask what the judge's reaction was when you explained?

Perhaps have a look at "Proban" - it is a tablet which is given every other day.

These are listed as dog "pajamas" but might suit your needs... http://www.kickatinalong.com.au/parade.htm Or, you could try Flupplies website - if you email them, I am fairly sure they can make just about anything you want. Had excellent customer service when I dealt with them. A link to give you some ideas of what they can do... http://www.fluppies.com.au/category190_1.htm

I haven't read this book but I have heard that it is very good. http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=DTB1009

Okay - another newbie question... what do people wear when trialling??? I've seen everything from torn jeans and grubby t-shirts to very smart dress slacks, crisp white blouse and woollen argyle vets (very, very smart). I know people say "neat but comfortable", but for fashion "nobs" like me, exactly what does "neat" mean??? I'm thinking neat jeans with a nice polo shirt... with a good sports bra underneath

squeak - it's been some time since I've trialled but my 2 cents worth is that I teach the exercise the same as you, but why not add in an extra command as back up? I use stay or wait depending on whether the dog is required to sit/stand/drop rock solid or is to expect another command - it seems to give Zig an extra edge of confidence, particularly in the stay exercises. Ummm... because I am stubborn???!!! I have an informal wait command for when we are walking and get to roads and want them to wait for me to catch up (they are allowed to walk ahead of me). I am always worried about them trying to target my hand if I use a stay signal. I am also toying with the idea of using "stay" as my "leave it" command for food refusal, if we get that far in our trialling - still very undecided on that one, but guess I want to have the option.

Nope, but expect to get asked why you didn't use a stay command. Bear. By the judge or other triallers?

I know that this is slightly OT, but hope that people don't mind me asking here, since we seem to have a thread gathering many experienced triallers. I do not teach my dog a stay command or signal - they are expected to maintain the position asked until their release word. Am I likely to get "pinged" for not using a stay command during the SFE or recall exercises?

Isn't SFE on-lead in CCD? Or did you mean get from the start peg to the start of the recall off-lead? The end of SFE, sometimes the judge will get you to remove your lead and walk towards the end of the ring to take up position for the recall. Thanks for that - it is not something that I have seen in the trials that I've been at, but definitely good to know

Isn't SFE on-lead in CCD? Or did you mean get from the start peg to the start of the recall off-lead?

Try www.windchill.com.au

Can I ask the "gurus" a question on leads, as this issomething that I've been pondering recently, and thinking that my "normal" lead is too long, since I normally work with part of it folded up. How do I choose a lead that is the right length & width? I have a mutt, who is probably about labrador size and comes to just about my knee in height (I'm about 5'10"). My current lead is 5ft, but I've been thinking about changing to a 4ft lead, but the only ones I can find are narrower than what I'm using. My current lead is 19mm, and I like the feel of it in my hand. Switching to a shorter lead would probably mean going to a 15mm lead - which I don't like, but guess I would get used to.

Sorry - one more. Make sure that you have read the current rules, and understand what you are and are not allowed to do.

Great thread Ptolomy. I am hoping to trial one of my dogs later this year. I've been to a few trials to watch and also to steward. I look at the CCD and think - surely I can do better than that... but fear that I won't. Watching one trial, I actually asked the judge (after all judging was finished & explaining why I was asking) - if the standard for the day was "normal". They kindly shared their thoughts with me that it wasn't. When I asked the most common error for CCD handlers, I was told "extended signals" - though I had to show my ignorance and ask if they could show me exactly what they meant by that . The explanation that I got was that it was when signals are "held" in place for too long. My other advice would be: - be a good sport. I stewarded and had someone from the club complaining, immediately outside of the ring, about why someone else was NQ'd - and in front of stewards and other competitors. I have never been more embarrassed in my life. I tried to politely say that they would be better asking the judge at the end of the trial for an explanation - which I am fairly sure they never did. I did ask the judge about that particular team, because at the time, I couldn't work out why (I'm a newbie). Explanation that I got was extended signals and dog being frequently out of position with heel position. Thinking back on their performance, I would agree with the judge - it was just my ignorance meant that it needed to be pointed out to me. - if you are unsure of why you were scored something - wait until the end and ask the judge. Most times I've seen they are happy to offer an explanation if the person is polite - the judges aren't big scary monsters. - toilet your dog immediately before you go into the ring. I think the only time I have seen a dog soil the ring is CCD - one explanation was "he went earlier" (ie 60+ minutes before entering). - remember that you cannot physically (or verbally) correct your dog in the ring. Yes, I have seen someone physically correct their dog (check chain) in CCD - they were immediately excused. Sorry, that was more than one!

I'm curious on this one as to why you got pinged. Was it because you signalled an around the back finish and the dog did a flip finish (ie., signal and action didn't match), or was it something else?

I found the clip on youtube...

Don't know if you saw it, but they had three kelpies on "Australia's Got Talent" which were herding ducks in turn. The oldest was a few years old, and was basically there to save the day if the pups messed up. The youngest two were 6 months old and 8 or 12 weeks old, from memory. The 8 or 12 week old was incredible - one of the ducks separated from the group, and the host was basically laughing at the pup as he went after the lone duck... and they felt he WASN'T doing the job he was supposed to (ie., keeping the other ducks together). What I saw, was I dog who was doing exactly what his job was - getting all the ducks back together. I think he actually managed to herd the lone duck back to the rest of them - which was no mean feat when the had a small fence around the ducks on stage!

It's a bit of a hike for you, but if you want a vet who has excellent animal handling skills, try Michelle at Sylvania Vet Clinic.

I cannot vote in the last section, because I answered yes. I believe LLW can be taught to young puppies using positive methods. I would go as far as to say it may be possible to teach it to older dogs using positive methods, but the time it takes, to me, makes it an impractical method for the majority of owners. This is a technique that I would love to have the opportunity to try with some puppies... http://www.shirleychong.com/keepers/LLW/LLW%20Step%201.html

Thanks for posting this. I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised at how sensible people have been over the last few days and have been brave enough to make the tough decisions to keep others safe.

Are you able to tell us if spectators are allowed/welcome?

A the school they don't teach it to any dogs at all. The reasoning is that the dog should "stay" until it is released - no special commands needed. For example, someone comes to the door and you have trained your dog to sit when this happens: * The "sit, release" trained dog sits while the owner talks to the person at the door etc. No interruption of conversation. * The "sit, stay, release" dog wants to come to the door unless the owner is constantly telling it to "stay". This makes answering the door etc hard to do. This works really well for my dog. He now stays for about 15 seconds, even if there is a delicious treat to tempt him away. To me it is just a different way of teaching a stay - some outcome (dog not moving) just two different methods - one the dog is given a command and the other the dog is given a release from a command. From my limited experience (which contradicts another poster here who I respect) it is more difficult to teach a person to release the dog than to teach them to use a stay command.

I'm not a professional trainer, but I am curious as to why they say that stay shouldn't be taught to puppies?

Thanks heaps . They told me the costs: the blood test (lab fee) is $99 + the consult fee of $79.50. So total is $180 ( well $178.5 to be precise ). In Brisbane I was able to get the consult + titer test for $70. That's more expensive than I thought, especially for the consult fee. I'd be ringing around as well - try phoning Sylvania Vet Clinic & also Heathcote Vet Clinic (at Heathcote). There is another vet clinic at Kirrawee, I think on the Highway or President Ave.