Cosmolo

I think it depends very much on the dog and whether they have "learned to learn" and have good critical period socialisation. For example, if the dog has learnt stand but not sit it will be easier to teach sit than a dog who has learnt nothing at all. I find adult dogs easier than puppies in some respects in that they usually have a longer attention span, more physical bladder control etc but they can be more difficult if they have had long periods practicing bad behaviour or have learnt to ignore commands/ corrections/rewards etc. Most adult dogs, regardless of where they come from have some behavioural issues- there are dogs who have been in a loving home since 8 weeks that are excitable, silly and don't know how to behave appropriately.

Just how unusual is it for a dog to have both HD and ED? I thought there might have been a few more people who had had the same problem

Impossible to say with certainty without seeing the puppy but sounds like 'normal' puppy mouthing. Although its normal, still needs to be nipped in the bud. Is the pup used to a lead? There are lots of different ways to correct the behaviour but you also need to set up positive, controlled interactions with the pup and the kids. ETA Your children are too young to effectively correct the pup- while they may be able to give a verbal 'no', you will need to follow through.

The X rays were looked at by Dr Wing Tip Wong who i believe to be extremely good? I don't know who Dr Wyburn is.

I would contact Four Pws K9 Training- i'm sure they will be able to help you sooner rather than later! Good luck!

The specialist said he has arthritic changes in his hips already- not sure about elbows. He doesn't cry or anything when he's sore- but he has the highest pain threshold of any dog i know so it can be hard to tell just how sore he is.

Dexter is 33kg at the moment, still growing and we are keeping him very light. I've spoken to a surgical specialist so i know the costs involved- its the recovery and stress on his other joints that concerns me the most.

Thanks nekbet. So life expectancy is just until whenever the dog can't move anymore?

Agree with the vet check suggestion- but i have known a GRT who did a very similar thing through attention seeking/ learning and stubborness, so you wouldn't be the only one!

Does anyone have any experience with dogs who have both hip and elbow dysplasia? Dexter has been diagnosed with both and while we are managing him conservatively at the moment (he is doing very well for the most part) i am thinking ahead to a time when he may need surgery or something else? It concerns me that any surgery would put so much extra pressure on his other joints which are affected as well? Has anyone had a dog with both before? What did you do? What were the results?

I think everyone agrees on the following- - Different dogs need different types of training- some breeds and individuals within breeds are more difficult than others - A training tool is only as good as the technique that accompanies it - No one is a bad owner/ trainer!! - No one is a perfect owner/ trainer!! - Trying to teach puppies right behaviours from day one is ideal- with some dogs this doesn't always remain as their drive kicks in etc. - All training equipment can be good or bad- depending on those using it. There are many different ways to use the same piece of equipment - Flat collar is the betterequipment choice for young pups Different owners have different expectations and i think a little mutual respect goes a long way. Just because someone chooses a certain training tool/ technique doesn't relate in any way IMO to their abilities etc as an owner.

Given that their obedience is good and the issues you would like resolution to- i think your money would be better spent with an in house session with a qualified trainer/ behaviourist. Boarding and training can be a successful start at resolving issues that are easy for the trainer to set up- obediene, dog to dog aggression etc. Running under a house/ fear in the home cannot be replicated and you would find the issues would be likely to exist to the same or similar degree after boarding and training.

Just had a look at their website- doesn't sound bad, but is quite pricey.

We do borading and training and while it can be a brilliant tool for some dogs, it largely depends on what issues are present, the dogs temperament and what the owner expects. What are you looking to get out of boarding and training? I also suggest you go and look at where the dog would be staying- i have never been to alpha but i find quite a few people who board and train don't look at the facilities available at different places.

tollersowned- i agree and disagree with you Wouldn't use a chain on a puppy. However, all of my dogs can be walked on either a correction chain or flat collar without any problems? 2 of my dogs haven't had a chain on for months and they still walk just as well as they did with it on.

Training is an unregulated industry so the best way to go is by word of mouth. Whereabouts are you located?

LP- thanks for this thread- it reminded me to find a bowen therapist for Dexter. Naturally wild is coming to see him monday

Unfortunately you don't get to determine who is the alpha dog between the two. However its unlikely that true hierarchy is really being determined at the moment. You have a puppy who likely wants to interact and play and an older dog who is coming to terms with the new pup on her turf. You definitely need to control the pup's interaction with the older dog- without punishing friendly interaction and intent from the pup. While its totally understandable that you want to protect the older dog- the way you do this should not send a message to the puppy that 'trying to interact with Ruby gets me in trouble'. Likewise, Ruby shouldn't learn that unning away from the pup and being scared- gets her lots of attention/ pandering. Put the pup on lead so you can control the interaction, look at a well run puppy school for socialisation for the little one and potentially a one on one session with a qualified trainer to come to the home and give you specific advice on the bext way to start to progress a happy relationship for both dogs. ETA- problems with pups are normal- so try not to pull your hair out just yet : )

I find the dogtra far too big for small dogs so use the innotek IUT 300 and find it really good for the little guys.

If i am walking one or two dogs- generally loose lead walk with sniffing allowed but no pulling. They get called to heel when we walk past others or cross roads. When OH and i take out all 4 together, we generally have them closer (shorter lead) but still not a formal heel unless asked. They know when the lead is shorter that they need to stick a little closer. 2 of our dogs often choose to walk close anyway- even on longer leads. They generally wiat to toilet until they are off lead

Nope- can't think of a time when i haven't been able to protect my dogs. But by being a good leader- if they are ever in that position they are much less likely to engage in a fight than dogs who have learned to deal with it themselves through aggression. I have a very happy well adjusted pack. The initial posts to your topic were on topic and answered the question- You took it OT by bringing your dogs and actions into the mix.

I have 3 bitches and a dog and they never engage in a fight- nor would i find this acceptable. They regularly have foster dogs or family dogs come to stay and again- no fights. They have no need to engage in a fight. So i guess we will have to agree to disagree Penny has never caused a fight but has started one? That doesn't make sense to me.

Normal natural dog behaviour involves fights with other animals. YOU state that you don't want to stop them from doing this. If you make a statement, i am not going to dissect it as i don't know you and can't decipher every possible meaning. I will take the statement on face value- which is why generalisations on online forums are probably best avoided without clarification. I trust my dogs too- but i don't let them 'sort thing out' because they trust me too- and i don't want to lose that.

I don't understand how you can like watching animals be everything they can be- dogs can kill and seriously injure other dogs, animals and people- thats one part of natural behaviour i am happy not to see in my domestic dogs and to train away from wherever possible.

Corvus you ask why you should stop Penny from air snapping/ warning with other dogs? My answer is simple- her doing that may get her into a fight with another dog who does not read the body language well or does not appreciate being 'told off' by an older weaker individual. We're not dealing with wild dogs anymore- wild dogs would not be expected to meet and greet outsiders to the pack so what a wolf pack would or would not do is largely irrrelevant imo. I never want my dogs to think i won't look after them and that they need to use aggression- most aggression is not appetitive to the dog so i don't want to put them in that position. Re: re teaching warning signals, IMO its about teaching alternate incompatible behaviour, not re teaching warning signals.