Cosmolo

Giant Schnauzer or Standard Poodle probably- for their smarts and attitude. Or a Cattle dog or Kelpie for their smarts, attitude and drive.. hehe- i just worked 4 breeds into a one breed answer! Actually i'd love to trial a beagle too- to show it can be done!

Personally- i wouldn't use them BUT i do know someone whose dog had acupuncture there and they said was very good and fixed the problem.

So sorry for your loss- i know what its like to come home and find a dog has passed and its awful. So thinking of you

Developmental phases are normal- progression and regression in training are normal. However, how long these phases last is ultimately the result of training and management. Dogs don't have to regress for months as part of a phase- the longer the behaviour goes on, the more important the learned component becomes and then the learned component maintains the behaviour rather than the developmental phase.

I am so very sorry Karen- let me know if there is anything i could do to help. You have had a shit of a time of late, I'm sure hazel enjoyed her years with you.

The fact that the issue occurs only when you have the food is what leads me to consider that their are potential leadership issues here- the dog believes that there is something to be gained by being narky at the other dog, while you have control of the resource. If you have ever dropped food and being narky to the other dog meant he got it first (even if it was just because the other dog stands away from him) he will consider it to be worthwhile. Different situation when they both have food in front of them. It is also possible that there is a higher state of arousal and frustration before the food is given which decreases when they have the food. ETA Can't give more of a behavioural perspective without knowing the dogs in question- this is just guessing!

Hard to say but perhaps because he thinks there is an advantage to be gained- that the food comes more quickly etc. I also think given that it occurs when you are eating a sandwhich that there would be leadership issues in play.

I agree with Erny. The behaviour can be modified, but just depends on how much work your're willing to put in.

If you'd like to send me an email i can send prices through to you

Provided you properly socialise and train in a way that works for your individual dogs personality- with a trainer who understands your goals, i don't think there would be a problem with any of the things you mentioned.

Lead walking alone will not establish leadership, nor resolve resource guarding- Kelpie pup, i don't know of someone near you but hopefully another DOLer will. If there is no one nearby- send me an email and i'll see if i can at least send you some information.

Hard to know why is happened- maybe the dogs were fed together and there was a dispute? Resource guarding can be complex and there are usually a few steps involved in resolving such an issue. What does the pup get fed? Did it change while you were away? Regardless of why, the important thing now IMO is that you get some assistance from a trainer experienced with such issues. Given that it has only just begun, if you get onto it immediately- it will be easier than if you wait!

I prefer a halti if i use a headcollar

If you are just looking for an introductory workshop in the meantime (while waiting for the clubs) we run them at Brookfield Farm Tyabb

If the dog walks well on the lead on a chain, why would you try a different method when you wouldn't really need to. I am a firm believer in doing what works for that dog and wouldn't change something if i didn't need to. Is the trainer there to resolve a particular issue?

How you deal with this will depend on whether the behaviour is based in fear (which can still manifest as barking, pulling and lunging) or comes as a result of prey drive. I would strongly suggest you consider a one on one session with a trainer to assist you with such a problem. If the behaviour is prey driven, it won't improve over time due to the huge instinctual rewards that may be occurring each time.

We are in Albury on the 15th/16th November for workshops/ seminars and private lessons if they wanted to drive!

But doesn't there have to be a history of reinforcement for people to do things though?

I understand what you are saying but when it is not doing the dog any harm or creating a problem, i generally don't correct someone who says a dog wants to please them- why does it matter if they think that the motivation for a behaviour is different in the example you mention? I also do think that biddability does exist and while in theory, the dog is receiving a reward when the owner is happy- many owners think that because their dog responds to their happiness that they 'aim to please'. Again, i don't see an issue- the dog still gets what they want, the owner is happy and continues to 'reward' the dog.

Sorry- meaning prey drive directed toward other dogs

Ruthless i know this is going to sound like a stock standard line and i apologise in advance for it but it is impossible to say with any certainty what you should read/ do without seeing the dog Flooding was the absolute best thing we ever did for Georgie and in many respects we had no choice because her fear (of everything!) was so extreme BUT their was no aggression- i rarely recommend flooding for minor problems let alone something more serious. How you should react is so variable and depends on so many things- have you seen a behaviourist? If so, what did they suggest? Does Trixie have prey drive issues as well? I ask because the reacting to excitement (toys/ games etc) is not typical ( but not impossible) of fear based aggression.

It is impossible to say without seeing the dog what the best way is to do this- but desensitisation is the key. One of our dogs is extremely fearful but has improved a great deal since we have had her through a combination of counter conditioning and flooding. Don't kow if this makes sense but i prefer to be pro active rather than reactive- setting up the situations that illict the response- once i know exactly how i'm going to deal with what the dog is going to do. It allows you to more effectively deal with whats happening rather than just waiting until something happens and the dog reacts.

I wouldn't be rehoming just yet- as PF suggests, you will be hard pressed to find a puppy that doesn't do similar things and it doesn't have to stay that way. You might be surprised at the difference training can make to a mouthy puppy. Its no good rehoming this pup and getting another that may do exactly the same things. What happens then? Obviously the safety of your children is paramount- but i know many similar situations that have worked well. You don't have to compromise on your children's safety when you invest in good quality training and management solutions.

Are you going to obedience? there are lots of different options that you can use- with each piece of equipment having pros and cons. At 4 1/2 months i am always inclined to try to use a normal collar if possible- what do you currently do with the normal collar when your pup lunges? Putting a headcollar on a lunging dog can be dangerous if you are not given proper instruction on how to use it correctly.

Thats really unfortunate Would the vet allow you to pay off the x rays? We had to have x rays done on our boy o find out what was going on and at least once we knew, we could make decisions accordingly. I don't know whether i would go to obedience now though? You will be very limited to what you can do and it may be difficult to tell if any resistance or reaction is due to soreness- you don't want to pair pain with obedience