Nekhbet

you do realise that if your dog remains calm 99% of the time the dog behind the fence will stop it's behaviour too when there's no reaction. Oh wait, it's just easier to avoid things instead of face difficult behaviours head on! Life's not fair. The more you avoid things, the harder life actually is for a dog in the long term. Why did that take you 2 years to do? Why is he not ignoring them on command by now?

*cough* torrent *cough*

ahh I was waiting for that old wives tale to pop up now tell me that doing that will make a dog really aggressive or terrified in the long term. The point is dog gets corrected for lunging/jumping, not yelled at, corrected with a collar. The owner then shows the dog calmly what is wanted and the dog is rewarded. If the dog goes to repeat the unwanted behaviour after being shown what is wanted it gets a correction. Has nothing to do with the stranger, dogs are not that stupid. Plus a prong on a pup ... not really that warranted. Some dogs do decide to throw tantrums and death rolls in prongs because the new sensation just overloads them.

Contact Mark Singer you could have this dog figuired completely wrong, sometimes moving the dog away to what you think is the threshold distance can be the wrong thing to do. Get Mark to come and give you at least a good base line, he also knows about working in drive if that is what you want to do.

what is the actual problem with the food? Vomiting? Squirts? Gas? What have you tried so far?

how old is the pup? She spends all night in the crate then inside again during the day, she needs to be out more wearing herself out. Conversely how does a spray of water to the face go?

she's 9 weeks of age give her a break a couple of minutes at a time, if she nips or bites you just thumb under the tongue trick or a quick flick on the nose. Reward her for being super good, pups learn quickly

good if you want a proper working dog, not something to keep as a backyard pet or occasional obedience dog though. they can herd, hunt and guard. I too hope they dont become the next 'OMG SO PRETTY I WANT ONE AS A BACKYARD ORNAMENT SQUEEEEEEEEEEEE' dog

is there a neighbour with roses/fruit trees that is spraying? It's been a bad season and chemical use of all kinds has gone through the roof. I would ask if anyone is using any pesticide/herbicide/insecticide on a regular basis too.

not every dog needs a prong collar, nothing wrong with a martingale or check chain. If your dogs drive is that precarious that one correction is going to shut it down I would be reconsidering your training anyway.

any reason why you cant use a correction chain? As soon as he jumps or lunges give him a correction. If the stim isn't working then up it, all you're doing is building the dogs tolerance if you stim and he ignores it. Sounds like you're just going the long way round. COrrect for bad, reward for good.

What qualifications does this lady from Bark Busters have? Personally find yourself someone with experience that goes beyond buying a dog training Franchise and following some rediculous, outdated and sometimes dangerous practices. Plenty of people on here will give you references for good behaviourists. Desexing at this stage wont really make a difference now, he's mature, he has the habits set I just made an educated guess Because obviously he has had people snooping, he has not been able to see them properly and frightened them off with his barking (self rewarding behaviour) you now see how he really feels... he is uncomfortable and his barking at the door to make your 'guests' go away is because he cannot recognise them and is exhibiting a behaviour he knew has worked. Your Dogue wants you, not another dog. If this lady does not have experience with mastiff breeds or aggression/aggressive responses PROPERLY please find someone else, even at a pinch someone who has experience with working dogs like german shepherds and malinois etc to show you how to control him, build that trust between the two of you and the rest of the family again. You would be better off in the mean time just spending as much time as you can with him but with parameters, dont baby him, do some obedience in the back yard, play with him etc. If he's a light sleeper get him a solid steel crate and put him in that at night, covered, and sometimes a tiny nightlight in there can help too, or a radio on next to him so it's not just totally quiet. Dont panic, just find the right person. If you were still in Vic I would be over in a flash I have a big squish of my own and have dealt with a few others, they're a breed that is consistent in their personality traits. come on we need a photo

if he's having a lot of raw protein then putting him onto puppy shouldn't hurt. Just dont feed as much dry as you did the adult food.

poor poppet ... so he should be! Trust me I wont be the one chastising you (plus that would make me a massive hypocrite) Cut his diet back to the bare basics. No treats, no slipped food under the table, no stealing other pet foods etc. While waiting try and think back to the time he was least itchy - has he tried something like Eagle Pack fish only diet? Conversely you can try your own if you want to go the VAN way, he does have a skin support powder to add to the food. I wouldn't be purchasing the mix only because of the grains in it, there is a Nutritional Powder + Skin Support powder which you add to a novel protein source like, oh, fish or goat, or turkey etc. Sebazole I think it's the shampoo that has just ruined his already inflamed skin - sounds like the wrong stuff for the job. If it was my dog I would be slathering him in paw paw cream (ensure hygeine protocols when you use it ... basically dont double dip into the pot) and not using any more shampoos, if you have to just pure unscented goats milk bar like Billy Goat that they sell at Myer if you're desperate to wash him in something because he's dirty. Meanwhile as few chemicals as possible and clean bedding every day for him to sleep on until you get to the dermatologist. Fingers crossed for you I know what it's like to have a bad skin dog and although mine is not as bad as yours its still heartbreaking to patch them up after attacks

maybe it's the food making him sedentary? Is he a large/giant breed or did he suffer something like Pano or knuckling over? I wont feed lower then about 25% protein to an adult dog anyway why did the vet say to put him on adult food?

Sorry had a brain fart :D good pick up on that one!

it's like any creature, even ourselves ... some are natural lovers, others need to be 'shown the ropes' ... there are plenty of stud dogs out there who at one point or another had no idea what they were doing and needed help, or still do just to mount and tie properly.

Not necessarily testosterone but behaviour. My own male has been suppressed by my very dominant bitch when she was in heat. He waddled up to her when he was young and she slammed him for showing any interest ever, so even 5 years later he doesnt show as much interest as he could. Yes he whinges a bit but one look from her and he shuts up If she's coming on or off heat I can let her out with him while I watch and he doesnt try, a sideways evil eye puts him in his place and he gives up. Rottweiler on the other hand never had that, so despite being desexed he's hornier then a whole pack of entire males. Put her in her crate though and he doesnt fight to get to her or anything but only if they're together he harasses her (not that she helps)

I cant tell my pup off at all for biting ... I can redirect her to a toy instead but sometime she ninjas me when i'm not paying attention dammit

her daddy went to China for a week and so she took out her frustraton on me ... hey it is working though I took one off to reposition it and the ear was up, floppy at the tip while she ran but it's working! Don't worry I added more glue as payback

so we''ll consider him entire I would not feed him in there until bed time and hands off totally - this way he will go inside and you wont form a habit. If he snaps at you hold your ground, just ignore him or if you're more comfortable have a leash attached to him. I would see someone about his willingness to engage when he doesnt want to do something like go in the laundry before rehoming, he needs to be fully tested to see if he has real bite or he's just showing off.

wow, where I work we're cheaper then the website for D1000's, we sell the XL for about $160 max Snooza also make DuroBeds which are double layer heavy duty shade cloth material and they're really well padded inside. Cheaper then the D1000's as well

how are you trying to get him in the laundry? Recently desexed? Remember new home, guarding breed that may have learned how to deal with 'manhandling' (and I'm not saying you are but to the dogs mind being led somehere he doesnt want to go can count as this) is with physical force back to the handler. He could also have been pushed into shed/laundryas a punishment as well before and could be going back to old habits. Could be the reason he was surrendered. Feed him in there. If he has to share a bed with another dog, DONT. Make 'bed time' coincide with dinner time, encourage him in there happily with his food and give him a bone to chew as a bonus for the night. Remove the bone in the morning before he is let out.

try 6 month old Malinois teeth ... I have a rainbow paddle pop bruise half the size of my fist on my upper arm right near the arm pit ... little cow all she did was nip me too ...

need a bit more info - breed, age, previous history etc