Nekhbet

From the last time I went to Costco about $50 a bag, 15kg

lunging dogs need training, not over the internet prescribed equipment. Save the money for a good trainer with experience in GSDs like Amax said.

I dont know if my bitch can track something that old unfortunately I have not tried her. Human or dog, if I give her a scent to find she targets for that but the issue is more 7 days of rain and crap weather.

Your rescue coordinator should be in touch with a decent trainer to help you through these things with the dog.

I suppose when your primary meat source is chicken byproduct meal you need something in there to validate it as more then chicken food. Hills was started by a veterinarian in the 1920s, in the 70s it was bought by Colgate Palmolive. They've also received FDA warnings http://www.fda.gov/ICECI/EnforcementActions/WarningLetters/ucm281270.htm And as much as we all hate Pedigree, look at their 'diet' formula ... It's not that far removed for something 5-6 times the price. Dogs cant digest sorghum. Wheat, corn and soy is abundant and pathetically cheap in manufacturers country of origin. Pea bran and beet pulp are ruminant/horse feed. They take an animal of that size with specialised bacteria to actually utilise it and not just plop it out the back end. A kilo of raw carrots are $1. I dont even want to think of the cost of a bag of this. People can be taught self control, there are ways and means to do it to keep both owner and dog happy.

Wow look at all those fillers. All those carbs are sure to knock the weight off ... Two meals a day, breakfast is one cup of lean raw red meat mixed with veg like carrot, zuchinni, cauli (tip, get the home brand winter veg frozen pack)cooked up, 50/50 ratio. Dinner is a big raw carrot. Add in a good vitamin powder like Vets All Natural Health Booster or the sorts with breakfast. If he doesnt lose weight on that I'll eat my hat. When he's lost the body fat up the meat to something fattier and more protein to build up the muscle.

Find a 4WD place, the usually have the contact of people who convert vans/4WD's cargo storage areas. Any engineering place can weld up dog crates.

Lovely to meet everyone! What a lovely day it turned out to be, not too sloppy after all!

http://www.sablecraft.com/ they have working shepherds and have trained interstate, start with them.

I know one doing CD, one doing CCD and one rally O. I'll come find the probably only Malinois there ;) I might bring one of my Mals for a social outing.

Because you need to have back to back litters? Because you need to start breeding ASAP? Because a bitch can have unlimited litters until a vet finally ticks her off as no more? Mmmhmm. Thats not to do with what is best for the bitch thats to do with money no way you paint it. Unless you have a super rare dog with a limited gene pool and you need more individuals to keep the breed alive that excuse doesn't float with me.

Gotta get your moneys worth from a bitch, darn that CC and their limitations.

Easy peasy Drive straight up Latrobe Terrace until you cross the Barwon River. Turn left at Anaconda/Spotlight intersection which is Breakwater Road Straight over new bridge, at the end of the bridge is an intersection, turn right onto Tucker Street first set of lights turn right onto Gundog lane, go over little bridge straight to dog club Take a look at the Breakwater area on google maps it's all there. I'll be there on sunday watching people and I cant make it really saturday but if you get lost call me, I live 5 minutes from there 0401389863 https://www.google.com.au/maps/place/Geelong+VIC+3220/@-38.178416,144.3604377,16z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x6ad4141c29a5d0cf:0x5045675218ce990

No problems :)

lovelabs I sent you message with a video

Stop worrying is the first step. There are some things that you cannot prevent, I have lost 4 dogs in the past few years and there was nothing I could change to stop it. It sucks, it's horrible but it's life with an animal with such a short life span compared to ours. Research lines, there are plenty of long lived lines out there (I found out my pugs lines live about 16-20 years ) which I'm not used to with larger dogs. My rottie was 4, my GSD was 2, my Bordeaux was 6 and my Malinois was 8 months old.

My pugs now 12 and in better shape then when I got her. She had green teeth that needed extracting and the infection was making her cough on a kibble diet (Advance). She was pudgy, dragged her front paws and had wheezy breathing. I dont believe that regular anaesthetics are particularly healthy when there are simple preventatives that can be done. Raw raw raw all the way. I have dogs ranging from 2 years to 12 years - there are no dentals required, no dry coats, no stinking, sloppy poo, good muscle mass even on the older dogs. They're all fit and active, and I make sure they tear meat/connective tissue off the bone in order to keep the incisors and canines in good condition too. The pug and french bulldog both have good teeth and can manage brisket bigger then their heads no worries. I also mix up the diet - different proteins, scraps, off cuts, hunted meats, etc. It's not the same old same old every day and not at the same time every day. touch wood, no medical problems here at all.

The knpv is not a breed registry. They go on what is written on the paperwork. A dutchie and a mal are two separate beasts. The KNPV is about producing workers and proving a dogs worth. It's why there was so much nay saying about KNPV line dogs here in Aus. Just because it looked like a Malinois didnt mean it necessarily was 110%. Example of a popular sire is Rico Vergossen, 'KNPV Malinois'

Your first port of call is to get proper x-rays done and speak to your breeder with the result. If the dog is definitely HD and is outside the breedable score then it's up to you and the breeder what type of middle ground you reach considering the dog cannot perform the function it was originally purchased for.

If the papers say malinois x malinois then pups will be malinois despite a longer coat. It's a throwback in genetics not a type produced. And it's why I check genetics way more then just 5 generations on pedigree papers. For this breed it's way too small a snapshot of what you're actually getting. He is. They're from Nordenstamm breedings. It's not just the coat. I suppose in the days where coat was the deciding factor of course temperament would have been quite similar. These days though there's quite distinct differences. They still have similar quirks I must admit but there are differences due to the fact the Malinois in particular has become so specialised. I've had cluster headaches for a week, if the worst thing in your life is a misspelled breed name then bully for you. megan is right.

scent detection?

Herein lies a problem. When they first had a standard made they were considered to be the one breed, there was much more variety but they standardised it into 4 varieties depending on what region of Belgium they came from. The FCI still consider them to be 4 varieties of the same breed whereas different countries consider them separate breeds. I believe the ANKC first considered them as 4 varieties then moved to consider them 4 breeds and banned unsanctioned crossing of the dogs. But because they are associate members of the FCI (which allows classification due to coat from a litter) they kept a provision in there to allow some crossing of the Belgians. Now, when it comes down to it these days, it's not just coat any more. The Malinois and some Lakenois are not the same in temperament and body structure to the Groenendael and Turvuren. The working Malinois in particular evolved into a different animal to be just a type. Shave a Turvuren it wont make a Malinois. The Malinois became the type offshooting to a more tailored dog to LE/Forces/MP then the other coated types. People do say there are long coat Malinois, those genes come from lines that had Turvuren mixed in. The Malinois as a pure type does not carry a long coat gene. Black Malinois came from a time where crossing with Dutch Shepherds was common. A lot of problems were had in Europe with paperwork as some was falsified/modified which is where the old 'don't trust KNPV line papers' came from here in Oz. People were importing dogs that were either crossed in the lines (KNPV and ringsports do not require a pedigree in order to participate) or bitches in whelp that gave birth to 'black' Malinois. I saw a litter that were called black malinois, ummmm some were brindle pups too! Not a Malinois, that is a dutch x. The problem is there is still debate as to the breed vs variety idea as was originally done with the dogs. Yes the gene pools can be small particularly in places like Australia where there are so few dogs and you see pretty much a lot of dogs are related in one way or another (hence why I'm looking at importing down the track). Some blood lines have also almost died out from wasted breedings and people who stopped bothering with papers to make a quick buck. The coateds were lucky in a way that showing/ANKC sports played a role in their perpetuation, papers were important. In the Malinois not so much which is why a lot of good dogs and lines went down the toilet.

They need a good trainer in not advice from the internet or more stuff from the pet store. Any equipment is useless without the right knowledge with which to use it to it's full potential to help you achieve your goal

she's a dog, get her a lamb neck or flap, beef brisket etc that she can sink her teeth into properly. It will also help loosen the baby teeth and avoid having a vet pull them out. Carrots and celery are for rabbits ;)

You need to teach the heel as a placement exercise, not a walking exercise. Heel means shoulder to your left leg, NOT walking by your side. For the swinging out 45 degrees I use placement boxes. It's a 3 sided box that is just a bit wider then the dog. If they try and sit crooked they can't do it because the box is about 15-20cm high (depending on the dog) Their butts hang out the open back end of the box so they can walk into it and change between sit, drop and stand. As for heeling start stationary. Say heel and wobbly your right leg around. Mark/reward for not moving. Then half stride forward with right leg, etc. Then with your right foot forward slowly move your left leg one step to meet your right, lure the dog into a straight position with food and mark/reward for following. You can allow licking if the dog is a real lagger. You need to do silly, small exercises so the dog understands it has to be glued to your leg. Then pace and direction will not matter. If you just treat it like a walking exercise you will always have problems.