Nekhbet

I would get the two sisters speyed since they're possible carriers of it too. Hang off until the tests come back, ring the lab and demand you want them NOW since you are having medical issues that require these results. Hound them if you have to they're just being lazy. What a terrible time you must be having with it hope the little boys are OK

OK ... I ask you to vacuum the house. You say no. I say 'I'll keep this $2 I was going to give you' what is your care factor? Extremely low. Because the value you see in the potential reward was low. Your dog is the same. Wow, dont get a cuddle, meh, whatever, moving on. You have a male GSD. He needs his brain challenged which boils down to more then pat or no pat. Push the boundries with him, withold things he likes if you dont want to do anything else with him and get him revved up a bit. If you cannot manage that join a dog club that can show you how. I love it when people bring me 'stubborn' or 'stupid' dogs and I have them working within a session. They're just unchallenged and nonchalant really. That can come down to conditioning or the owners not being consistent and teaching the dog the only time you listen is when I get mad at you because thats the time I made you do it finally. A dogs respect for its handler has nothing to do with height. I can lie on the floor and tell my dogs what to do. It comes down to if the owner is consistent, follows through with training and commanding the animal and if the owner is chasing the dog to reward it instead of the dog working for it.

Cheap pet mince Vets All Natural health booster powder coles/home brand mixed veges simmered until soft can add some rice if you need to bulk it out a little

Lack of consistency and really, what incentive is there to work for you? If he doesn't listen whats the big deal. He's an adult GSD now you need to 'boot camp' him a little if he's not interested in food dont feed him out of a bowl anymore.

come on it would only be a love bite Trust me if I had the space I would take at least another one pup from this pairing.

Want to start your foray into Malinois? The breeder that has bred my new girl is going to repeat the mating in a few months (yes they are ANKC reg with papers). I am extremely happy with my little bitch and so glad we went with the combo. I can tell you though these dogs are not for the beginner-intermediate dog owners. Their grandfather is Kukay's Aras. Sire is the darker dog my girl and her sister at 7 weeks PM me for questions or I can just pass along your details.

A friend of mine had a similar problem, her 12 month old could not hold on at all during the night and just kept pooing round the clock Changed from Supercoat to Black Hawk and no more problems. Too high a grain content just ran straight through her, plus it was sloppy. Your dog is not dealing well with the diet - why is that the dogs fault? You get angry at him more and more - why would he willingly try and communicate his discomfort to you during the night? He doesnt understand what is going on at all. If he is on supermarket food invest in something better, Nutro Chicken Rice and Oatmeal I find is the best one for a foray into premiums when it comes to stomach acceptance.

the dog ones shouldnt

It's called Royal Canin Starter, made for pregnant bitches and to wean puppies onto. It can be soaked AFAIK Can also be purchased in a 10KG breeders bag

I said nothing about him or his service. I just said I would automatically recommend someone elses services which I know are extremely professional and worth paying for. As for not being about self promotion plenty of people have their businesses in their signatures or when someone asks about a service DOLers are automatically recommended to be contacted despite not paying for advertisement here. There is nothing slanderous in it at all my opinions are my opinions but they have not been posted here.

awesome I'll have to come first thing in the morning and stalk people then

oooh what time is the show on? Might pop in on the way to/from work

oh jeezus

http://www.csus.edu/indiv/b/brocks/Courses/EDS%20240/EDS%20240%20Handouts/Operant%20Conditioning%20O_H%20&%20H_O.pdf this is a good one to read, just page one

yup Lilli is right, you cannot just enter someone's property and start shooting. Move your sheep somewhere safer or back onto your own property. Just remember even on your own property you have to be EXTREMELY careful where you shoot. Bullets travel further then you think and if they hit something outside your boundary fence you're in huge trouble.

your dog can be on a flat collar, all he needs is a few little sharp tugs on the lead in order to redirect his attention. COnversely the Cesar Milan poke to the neck with your finger can work too. A check chain on a small dashchund is not the way to go, but a physical touch is not going to emotionally scar him at all - considering this is a breed bred to drag badgers out of holes they're not made of cotton wool. The trick is to make them short and sharp to prevent an opposition response, I call it a 'reverse poke'. When he arcs up, command him to follow you, if he does not then provide him with sharp tugs with the leash until he follows you and redirects his attention. I use the same method on puppies if they dont want to walk on a lead and it works quickly. The reason I dont like verbal reprimands is that really, they dont get too far in getting you to your ultimate goal. You want the dog to look at you, yet you growl at him... rather counterproductive. Now remember a verbal reprimand is different from something like a non reward marker or a command to stand down (eg LEAVE IT) which work on the dog by making it exhibiting a conditioned response to your vocalisation. I dont let my clients 'ARRGGHH STOP IT' and get upset at their dogs when they're misbehaving on the lead - why? You have a lead attached to the dog which in itself is a tool to help you. The only thing to come out of your mouth is markers (is you dont use a clicker, then YES) properly conditioned commands and verbal praise. totally correct. Remember distance as well is a big factor in this. You dont want to be marching him for miles, just enough that he turns to face you which is usually a few steps or simply turning him 180 degrees. You dont want to teach the dog the more he carries on the further you take him away (because he probably is wanting the dog to go away) and it is in that way people make critical distances bigger. You will also not always have the option of walking away from another dog in real life so he has to learn that no, that other dog will not suddenly become miles away but my handler has showed me a really awesome, rewarding way of dealing with my stress of dog over there. ETA I reeeeeeeally dont like that video and I would not trust that dog just trained in that manner. Apply some stress, take away the food and prove to me it's counterconditioned. And food isnt always the ultimate reward for a dog in comparison. It also doesnt always create a positive state of mind, I have had to remove food from situations because the dogs were going ballistic.

you can actually reinforce an emotional level. Look at bitework... give one word and suddenly the dog can be on a whoooooole new plane. Sometimes a dog needs to go from asleep to on guard in a split second command. Dogs are not automatons. I believe you do not add to a stressed dog. You reward the dog to behave at the level you want it at. If your dog is sitting whinging, fidgeting, carrying on what do you think you are rewarding? If you settle the dog, redirect focus and reward when the dog is dedicating attention to you, dont you think you will make your job easier since there is a greater parameter on receiving that reward? I do not reward a dog in a fearful or severely reactive state when it comes to behaviour. Its not behaving to the standard I want and hence no reward - I will guide it an interact for sure but there is no clear reward until it settles down. A current dog I am working with is really wound up, shaking, scanning, erratic. I show him a potential reward and not until he settles does he get it. The dog comes leaps and bounds quickly and remains relaxed around the stimulus that was previously driving him to dispair. Your dog is not afraid (of that I am quite sure), there are massive signs to it. Very big difference between reactivity towards a stimulus due to breed factors and fear reactions, paticularly due as well to the fact he's so picky choosy at dog club to his targets. I can tell you a dog in full fear will just try and make ALL dogs rack off as quickly as possible. Reward him for listening, at least give him a 'oh GOOD DOG!' every time he looks at you if you do not have a treat handy. COnditioning it at this age will drive the dog to chose you over the stimuli that previously got him barking last time.

If you want good boarding/training combo Tina Button does it http://www.tinasdogtraining.com/, she's the only person I would recommend for it in and around Geelong. If you want private training her and I both do private lessons on this side of Melbourne, if you want boarding only I highly recommend Elcho Park in Lara. I cannot fault them.

seems to be the one answer for every problem there isnt it O_o

My dog was exactly the same before the Tramadol as she was after 3 of them ... Malinois are crazy anyway lol

not every component of a diet is required on a daily basis. The body of every animal is made to cope with changes in the diet by storing required components or giving you 'cravings' if you're becoming severely or long term deficient. Considering in most cases you have to do some pretty extreme things in order to cause disease due to particular deficiencies/overdose (eg feed only pure raw meat long term) or you ignore blatant symptoms your dog has showing its diet is imbalanced it's not panic stations. Remember nutritional needs will also change due to hormonal levels, growth stage, weather, workload, disease, etc If you feed mostly a decent kibble or balanced diet then there is not a lot to panic about. Variety can be good for dogs digestion too.

She's lost her sight, has frightened herself severely a few times and now has an anxiety - it's not annoying it's something that is part of a dog getting older. Give her a routine and comfort. Set areas that are safe for her and stick to them. Put up gates on the stairs so she cannot fall down or get stuck on them, dont move furniture and encourage her to sniff around. If you have to rub her favourite treat food around on things to get her using her nose now her sight is going she will learn to cope. I wouuld not leave her outside, put her out then inside again with a radio on so she has stimulation. She would be even more on edge outside hearing everything yet not being able to see whats going on. If she's going deaf she may not realise she's causing a ruckus either.

there is no prerequisite for a rep to have medical knowledge. I have known reps to give out frankly dangerous information and in one instance told an owner to chage the dogs diet to the dogs extreme detriment. If you have a medical question you ask a vet to analyse the products ingredients or see a specialist. Reps are more a part of marketing then health science.

as soon as he is beginning to focus on a dog and you know it's going to build, call him and walk backwards. Get him to follow and focus on you. If he does not listen then you correct and recommand. Don't stick him under dogs noses but at the same time he can learn. We have quite a few terriers that act this way at dog club, all pomp and show on lead. Remember this is not about forcing him. Ultimately you want HIM to want to ignore the other dog and focus on you, not be forced into it. Some dogs just require that consequence to not listening due to the level they work on. You will find his general excitement will also decrease.

wow sounds like they've been learning from the Pro Plan reps Majority of reps for dog food companies have no idea. I end up teaching them most of the time.