Nekhbet

www.leerburg.com has some great articles on there about puppies and training especially for working breeds

just see how the dog goes, if you see there is normal poos forming with a reasonable quantity of minced frames (eg a meals worth) then creep up to adding a neck in there. Slow and steady, just keep checking your dogs poo. If you see its getting whiter and dryer thats fine and normal on a highly digestible diet. If you find the dog gets constipated on a meal of minced frames add some normal human (I use the homebrand one) bran to the mince and see if that helps. It's a matter of just working at the dogs pace Baby steps and you get there. Yes dogs will vomit up bones that are indigestible but if they are still white then the stomach has not even tried. My lot will sometimes vomit up hard bits they cannot digest (normal canine behaviour) but you can see the juices have tried to erode them quite a lot.

start with something small on a daily basis like minced raw chicken frames. Just gradually up it and then introduce chicken necks/wings etc. Remember too some dogs just dont do well on raw red meats so some minced beef/lamb/roo without preservatives is the way to go too. Remember daily is better as the stomach will be able to change. Some natural yoghurt added to the mince can help as well.

I use what works for the dog and gets the results. I dont really care about personal preference of quadrants. At the time I have the dog the amount of reinforcement/punishment used and what type will change to how the dog is behaving and how well it is responding to training. My end goal is always that the human-canine bond is strengthened, that the dogs anxiety is low and that it is being properly treated by its owner. I never have a glassy eyed dog from training, they're happy, focussed and want more - even if I use a punisher. As for what you use, your sample size really is too small for any validity so can we stop these circular discussions you seem to love - the world is greater then your two dogs. Because it skews the reality of dog training and perveys an agenda. It's pushed towards dog trainers too - why? Shouldnt they know better already? They also divide 'Punishment as a training method' and 'Reinforcement as a training method'. Neither of them are 'methods' per say at all. But they insist on creating a divide. Also just because you have a lot of 'reputable' sources an intelligent person can manipulate quotes and information in the finished document ... there's a whole industry made on this too you know! Really I still thinks it's a piece of paper I'm not really interested in.

conversely without a blood test they could be making an assumption when in fact there is a simpler explination. I dont take 'educated guesses' with my animals ;)

straight to the vet for blood tests and a thorough health check, then go from there, If you are worried about her back legs and the vet finds nothing try a canine chiro to see if she has any spine/muscle problems.

On paper and out here in the real world having to fix other people's dogs problems are two different things What do you think they mean by reward based training techniques? In that case all trainers can be considered and the statement becomes a moot point. Reward based training should be the primary method used - really? In every case you need a dog trained? I should toss away everything I do now and just stick to what the AVA consider best practice? Mmm no. This is simply the shiny PR face to what training is trying to be funneled into by the AVA, RSPCA, Delta etc. If you are going to supply the public with information, you don't make it biased otherwise you then show an agenda. If this pamphlet didnt sway peoples opinion it would be useful at least.

Positive reinforcement is part of your overall training. You cannot pick one quadrant and say it's 'preferable'. If you dont know the dogs problem, breed, background, previous training and owners abilities you cannot say that all owners should go for it first. For all purpose run of the mill 'we have done little to no structure work with our happy go lucky dog' yes of course go for it. Anything else ... call an EXPERIENCED professional and if you DONT like the techniques used say something. The thing that gets up my nose is they advocate people go for a trainer that uses only positive training. There are many good trainers and behaviourists that use things in combination that is right for both dog and owner. Their badmouthing and saying how punishment can cause bad effects really is rediculous. What they are talking about in there is NOT well used punishment but in fact just owner behaviour that teeters on abuse at times. If in doubt give it a whack because you think it works - that is not dog training. Reef the dog around while frustrated - that is not dog training. Unfortunately that is what many veterinary behaviourists and positive trainers view punishment as being; just overall temper tantrum pain application to the dog. It makes life difficult because the general public are just that - the general public. Keep linking the behavioural term of punishment with just bad owner behaviour (which isnt training in any way) and they generalise. Then when you pull out an e-collar, check chain etc people are convinced it's all one and the same thing. The AVAs members are the ones with the ability to dish out drugs or lethabarb so I suppose they're qualified to fix your problem in one way or another.

I think the old 'German' bred thing is a bit of an old wives tale and a bit of a marketing term ... phwarrr buy them german lines and they grow to the size of a pony! I have seen German lines within the standard but they are gorgeous lean muscular dogs with high athleticism.

hehehe did you get a video?

you do have to limit them especially with very active dogs. Yes they need exercise but a baby bordeaux encouraged to play at such a pace may be just wearing her out. Asking the breeder can't hurt ;)

what does your breeder have to say about all of this? I would be getting second and third opinions on all of this before jumping in or admitting defeat from the specialist. Another person to try and contact could be Dr Bruce Syme in Victoria I heard from a couple of people with horses he has done some good work in regards to joints and bones. It cannot hurt to ask from someone who has his feet both in conventional medicine and alternative.

come over to the dark side ... we have Malinois ... and cookies .. looooooooooots of cookies

noooo I do not need a rottie as much as my broken heart would like one ... dont be evil and tempt me :p

currently? 2 Belgian Malinois bitches and one male Dogue de Bordeaux. For now. Resisting temptation to go get myself a rottie pup

That is not the point of either of those pieces of equipment. No training through fear is good training.

what kind of personality do you like? Easy going? Active? Clingy? Sparky? Also more importantly how much time do you have to train the dog more then just walk it. And have you owned any dogs before? Sounds like you have your hands very full at the moment a baby puppy would not be the best of ideas with that many children of an age that requires them to have a lot of your time and focus ;)

Better contact the AVA Steve, they will put you in touch with one of their veterinary behaviourists who will charge you squillions to fix the problem slowly and scientifically. Yes you should always show the dog the desired behaviour, yes you should reinforce the right behaviour. But once again they make punishment seem like it's simply beating the dog or taking out anger management issues O_o If in doubt, totally malign that which you dont understand :rolleyes:

remember the standard is for adult heights. My boy started reasonably normal and ended up as tall as a small great dane O_o

sounds like a typical wobbly DDB pup - they're not known for a perfect gait at that age Call your breeder first, if you can take a video and send it to them that would be better. Big dogs like that have a sloppy walk for quite a long time I wouldnt panic about HD this early. I think HD is becoming a bit of a catchphrase the way separation anxiety was in the late 90's/early 2000's.

dogs go as often as they need to. If it's a severe problem then he will need to go back a couple of times but apart from that I only take mine when they show signs of uneven gait or soreness.

This is from the Rottweiler standard The Rottweiler is a medium to large size, stalwart dog, neither heavy nor light and neither leggy or weedy. His correctly proportioned, compact and powerful build leads to the conclusion of great strength, agility and endurance. Height at withers for males is 61-68 cm (24-26 * ins) 61-62 cm is small 63-64 cm is medium 65-66 cm is large , correct height 67-68 cm is very large Weight approximately 50 kg (110lbs) Height at withers for bitches is 56-63 cm (22-25 ins) 56-57 cm is small 58-59 cm is medium height 60-61 cm is large , correct height 62-63 cm is very large Weight approximately 42 kg (95 lbs) Sounds like your pups size is quite normal for a dog his age considering he's a baby.

it was designed with that idea in mind too - indigestible fibre that would help with keeping anal glands and digestion healthy.

sometimes thinking outside the dry food box can be your saviour. The only way to know what will work is to systematically try foods a couple of weeks at a time or speak to a specialist veterinarian. Advance is not the best food out there. How do you say VAN is not a premium dog food? It is totally preservative, colour and additive free. It is a complete diet.

timidity and aloofness though are behaviours that are poles apart. The two are not interchangable really hence why I dont understand how so many can be painted with the 'timid' brush. It's not part of their personality really unless there is a real problem. I have seen a really unsocialised sighthound but even that wouldnt be timid due to breed - it acts no more different then any breed totally unsocialised during critical period when approached by things it doesnt like.