Nekhbet

get yourself a deshedding brush like a furminator/Noahs Deshedding etc. One good session should remove all the loose hair then a good bath and a finishing brush

Anyone who wants it around Geelong/Bellarine Peninsula Wallingtons WRG in Wallington (Grubb Road) will be getting it in store. Price will be roughly $83 adult, $85 pup. I make the pricing for stock at my work. There is no way at the price we pay for the product from the distributor the $75 price some sell it at can be replicated.

rediculously. All they want to do is be around you. I do have a pair of absolute tarts at my place.

funny the scores will rock up when, what, the pup is already your hands? Don't think so. Should not have even considered breeding the bitch without the scores already in their hands.

I use aversives but if I saw someone doing that to a poor old dog I'd put the chain around their neck. A dog needs the foundations before it can understand training, there are some stubborn ones yes but if you have to mash a dog into the ground repeatedly you need to go learn what training really is. The only time I have lifted a dog off the ground was when I was about to be attacked by it. It's the only way to avoid a hard bite.

I had a bit of loose hair here and there but not tumbleweeds every day. My last boy I brushed then had groomed properly, hydrobath, blow out every loose hair then not a problem until change in season. My Mals are the same.

Its what I worry about here in Geelong. I do speak to all my neighbours about it and tell them if at any times they're annoyed at all to let me know. Touch wood no problems but there are louder bogans around here then my lot. School holidays they get locked up if we're not home as I dont trust the gangs that roam around during the evenings.

let me guess the stinkier the better? We ended up having a groom a dog at dog club. It was groomed half way at a vet clinic and apparently too aggressive to finish. Took 3 of us to do it in the grooming room, matted to the skin and between all his front toes/in his armpits he had grass seeds. No wonder he was throwing a fit. We cleaned him up nicely after 2 hours and he's going to the vet to have the grass seed in his paws removed under sedation ASAP. The things we do at dog training ... I'm still sore from holding him.

excuse me Huski where did I say she is doing nothing? I recommended a Sch club as they can practically show her the tracking and obedience components and also you get to watch the older dogs do it. You can do foundation preywork, but starting a working pup at this age on basics of the work you want them to do later (like tracking, bitework etc) you can really help cement some good habits for down the track. Goes for all dogs but particularly working line as they're so fast to soak things up and want to learn. Believe it or not I do have a wee idea about foundation work for sport and working dogs. I didnt realise I had to go through the Huski filter to give an opinion.

get him to sit in front of you, put the target zone straight against his mouth and give him the command to grab it then 'YES GOOD DOG!'. Give the release command, then repeat. If the dog is close it wont go for hands. If he does just 'uh uh', hide it for a set, get him to sit and start again. Targeting can be hard for some dogs to do if they have not been taught.

ahh yes but life is easier when you start early with working pups as learning patience is part of it. Wears them out faster too.

lovemysideways go join a schutzhund club asap to get that pup started in tracking and obedience. Sch and ANKC obedience/agility are two different things so decide now what you want. I don't use stay with my dogs whereas ANKC does. They will also teach you tracking. He has a reasonable amount of drive be careful with puppies, wiggling the toy like that when they're hanging on can hurt their neck or rip out a tooth at their age ... saying that some pups care, some dont I cant see how deep he's biting either is he front or back teeth biting? Schutzhund isnt as hard and unattainable as people think it is. At least you guys are in a state where it's legal! I can't Sch title here legally except for a BH. *sigh*

I have a lot of people come in at work and adore it. Even on allergy dogs. Saying that if your dog does have extreme allergy problems you should be consulting a specialist to have it sorted properly. I find the formula is better then it used to be. We feed all ferrets on the Nutritional powder and raw meat, they look magical on it. The skin and coat formula does the trick too with my dogs.

just check the tablets don't contain something like a pain killer or something random like that. http://www.blackmores.com.au/products/travel-calm-ginger the blackmores one is pure ginger root

1900 champion in the UK yes they are a breed with dwarfism but the excessive skin is getting worst as the years go by just like the neopolitan mastiff, shar pei etc. The saggy, houndier face actually came with the fact the dog was so inbred it was having trouble surviving apparently http://retrieverman.wordpress.com/2011/01/15/the-outcross-that-saved-the-basset-hound/

if nothing else work on the pups prey drive, out and some basic obedience commands attached with prey work. If you can get the difficult Nina Ottoson toys like the Dog Casino or Dog Finder and start teaching her to use her nose in finding treats that would be a good way to keep her entertained but teaching her to focus her skills at least. You could hide things around the house/garden but a Mal pup will learn nothing but destruction that way. I'm going to train some more dogs at dog club in scent detection today I'll take some video for you to watch too, it's a great exercise and a lot of fun. Everyone last week was managing to get it down pat in half an hour, we had the dogs searching for a tub of Oregano hidden in behind car tyres, they had to crawl under and pull it out. Everything from the rottie pup to the spoodle loved it!

considering the scratching is seasonal it wont be 100% diet related. 2 weeks will tell you if the food is agreeing with your dogs system or not. If there is bloated stomachs, loose stools, vomiting, more inflammation etc you discontinue the food. If after 2 weeks the dog is doing well then you can continue on it longer. I find you can notice some positives after a couple of weeks to let you know if you're on the right tracks with it or not. Yup Staffs and AmStaffs in particular I see a lot of scratchers. Saying that a lot of them are usually on a poorer quality dry food. There are breeders that dont believe that dilute colours are a problem or that allergies have a genetic basis and breed with them. Plenty of dogs bred from that have demodex and sensitivities.

it means you are not totally in control of the toy. The dog does not see the toy as being a prey item because you play with her with it, it's the item itself hence enjoyment is gained from running around with it. Keep her on a longer lead under your foot, and dont let her keep the toy unless you are attached to it. You need control as well so you limit her ability to make mistakes. Just like the malinois pup in the Euro Joe video. The leash is a tool used to help the dog not just a something attaching you together. No prey drive will quash food drive. It's like me saying 'Here's $10, give me the $100 note you have'. Yes they're both currency but not of equal value to the holder. If you want to exchange what she has use another toy the same as the one she has. Just follow what I wrote for the Mal pup.

you dont let the pup have the toy. Out is easily taught and no wrenching. Keep hold of the rag but do not move it. Start wriggling the other one in her face and encourage her to take it. As soon as she spits the one she has say 'AUS!' and let her play with the other, hide the first. Back and forth like this for a while she'll pick it up in no time. You do have to hold the one she's playing with very still as movement will make her bite harder again and then it becomes a wrestle. you dont let pups do victory laps with their toys offlead. You will find those dogs steal sleeves and play keepings off with stuff it becomes annoying. As for loose bite you know if she starts munching, or half heartedly biting make a little jerk movement. If she's not gripping it will come out, if she can she will rebite. I have some tracking stuff here I'll see if I can set the scanner up over the weekend and send it too you. Email Jens and see if he has anything saved he can pass onto you too.

oh another epic fail ...

dont pull back on the training, a few minutes is nothing to a baby mal just dont make it repetitive. They're not the average dog at all. Nice grip on that pup just like my little feral was. Teaching 'aus' will be a very important skill use some food for shaping if you want but stick with toys. If you want to do schutzhund you will need to work on timing and grip as you go along anyway and if you let the prey drive/bite die it's a rod for your own back. Don't let her be a chewer either, when she has the toy a nice firm grip and if shes slack on it or starts stuffing about with it take it back from her. She'll become a steel trap in no time the weathers nice start teaching her to track as well, she's got a good nose on her and she's trying it out by herself already.

any ginger tablets safe for carsick kids should be OK for the pup just check the ingredients. Ginger biscuits can work too, tablets are stronger without the sugar and its something you cant really overdose.

It's OK, City of Greater Geelong are the ones who are going to start doorknocking anyone who has a dog registered as a 'staffy' or 'amstaff'. My friend has provided the council with pedigree papers for her amstaff, one less dog to visit for them.

dammit ... I want to try red but a nice dark one like yours ... oh well back to my black hair instead *pouts*

her car sickness could be whats causing the paranoia of the car - she thinks she's going to be sick and it's the car causing it. She could genuinely just be a carsick dog. What happens if you dont feed her, put her in a crate in the back and drive with heaps of fresh air running through the car (eg all windows open)? Maybe put another dog next to her in another crate/tethered where she can see it and learn to copy its calm behaviour. I would be trying ginger tablets to settle her stomach first.