Nekhbet

PP dogs still should give a warning to an approaching target if commanded by their handler. Barking has always been part of PP training.

Leerburg.com and Michael Ellis.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2zpMSiD9Tg And last one of the 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28T0kravt_4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPKs__1-rlg This is my friends dog, just a pet, I taught him Sch obedience work. Dog is under 12 months in all 3 videos. Surfcoast dog sports is opening next year for everyone to join and learn this plus more :)

Replied :D

I have time free first couple of weeks of January if you would like a workshop day let me know and we can work something out. I have plenty of dogs to use as training aids.

Don't worry I created a monster ... I taught my rescue Malinois LandSAR and if we're playing or at dog school it's WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF if she gets ignored too long or riled up. I tell her to be quiet and she shoots me the 'Well you're the one who rewarded me for this' look and sulks :p

Because apparently not being surgically altered is a massive risk for a dog. I never go more then a basic check for any of my entire dogs, if that rare thing crops up we go to the vet. I do no blood tests or invasive procedures just because my dogs are not desexed at all. The dogs I have lost to illness, or any vet visits we do have, have nothing to do with being entire.

If she was younger I would trial her... I'm looking for a companion for a young girl with special needs and the dog would pretty much be with her 24/7 but we need a dog a little younger.

Well that would be the point you should have mentioned. I have commanded a dog in french before so I know what the words sound like. If a word whatever the language is potentially confusing you either make a point of making a distinction or use a different word.

Dogs do not understand any of our human languages the way we do. They simply hear a sound and we reinforce a behavior to be exhibited to that sound. You can use any language you like, heck you can use any word you like, as long as you're consistent the dog will get it.

Contact Mark Singer, give him a couple of days though to reply he just had a bout of illness

... fail ...

You posted before I was about to say has she had a urine test. fluid and electrolyte imbalances can cause the wobbling, amylase is usually a sign of pancrease inflammation at the least but not always something to panic about if its just over.

You have to pull back what he can access in general then. I've seen the most unenthused dogs after being shown the sink or swim principle suddenly go gung ho into playing. If he's just staring at the other dogs and owners he can just get frustrated. If you dont have another dog then cover him with a blanket on that side so he cant just sit there staring and working himself up towards them. If you have another dog put him away and let him see you having fun with that dog and see if that works him up. If you find he's that unmotivated make it a little harder to get especially the toys before he grabs it. Technique can go a long way, use something soft like some fabric on a string and little tugs along the ground. If he's half hearted in his attempts just nip it out of his reach and when you see that spark of enthusiasm let him have it. Don't let it be too easily attained or it's just not that exciting and the reward potential is not worth the effort the dog will put in. Same with food, keep the dog lean and if he's that not hungry use something fresh and dont feed him at all on the day. There's ways and means of increasing enthusiasm ;)

If he wont play, put him away for a 5 minutes and go do something fun without him. If you can borrow another dog or have another motivated dog even better. Then try again, if he ignores you, back you go and be ignored yourself. Dont fight the dog for attention, if he wont come to the table with attention then he can go think about it and have no possibility of getting reward from anywhere.

Too much protein in his diet - that small proportion of kibble isn't balancing anything. He also doesn't need any more NSAIDs before he DOES to damage to the joint. Let him hurt it will make him stop using it and acting like a loon. I would get a chiro to have a good look - you've done the x-ray and he's fine so assume between putting himself out skeletally and pano with a high protein diet and what breeds he possibly is. You need to balance that diet a little. Get yourself a GOOD multivitamin something like the VAN Health Booster or Sprinter Gold whelp and grow, add it to his meals and add some fiber. Chuck the Advanced. If you want to go whole hog at least during this stage get something like the VAN mix or cook up some vegetables for him to decrease the pure protein portion of his meals it's way too high. Remember with 'raw' diets that mimic the 'wild' diet a lot of what a dog eats is not that good or digestible. They dont eat brisket, legs, etc every day. It's too much.

It's not her drive I think it's your speed that is the problem. You have to balance the fine line between non rewarding so the dog understands barking will not get it, and witholding the reward that ends in frustration which = more barking. It's about going back to a basic, withold and as SOON as you get a quiet patch mark, reward in prey and start again. I mean a stupidly easy exercise for the beginning. If you're trying to get the barking to stop within your complex exercises it's too much for the dog to compute. Remember they're horrible multi taskers... It's why when you fix a problem you cant do 2-3 things at once when fixing it, you start fixing it in a simple manner then incorporate that new conditioning within your more complex exercise or you will just go round and round a merry go round. If you like take a video and I can break it down for you to show you what and when you need to do things. I see you're in VIC if you really have trouble we can have a get together

Break down the exercise. You do not engage until quiet. You finish the exercise if she barks and start again. Teach that barking = failed exercise. It will make it stop. It can be a byproduct of frustration. In some persuits you want it, in others you dont.

There's plenty of try hards out in western suburbs melbourne, both dog fighting and cock fighting still happens a lot. BUT it's not some big deal organised crime racket people think it is, it's more young guys with warped ideals that do it. And it's a bit of a 'cultural' thing as well.

Sprenger Rubberised leads, nylon with rows of rine rubber stitched through. Light weight yet they never hurt your hands and are soft.

Remember what you mark is what you want to keep. That is the point of marking a behavior, to signal to the dog what memory to form. It can work for you ... or against you ;) We even have our horse doing it as it's such a good exercise for a lot of animals.

Belgians are special, let me tell you I have 4 working Malinois and they are a pain in the bum when they are young - what you describe is quite normal... BUT the point is more get yourself the help now because they are such pains in the bum. And they remember things very quickly. What you find OK now can escalate into a problem you find hard to control in a short space of time. Barking at others and at the door uncontrollably is unacceptable, particularly in a dog that will love the sound of its own voice and using it. Dont do internet and guess work. I warn you now. I've spent over 10 years with Belgians and if you have a problem that you're not used to go fix it with someone that does. NOW. Internet advice and guess work with your pup wont help you. Honestly this is nothing to do with weak nerve and fear it's a typical puppy just being a loud little so and so. I gave you a link to a person I trust and trains other trainers from around Australia practically.

Not to be rude but an entire dog doesnt magically bud off and produce puppies. Unless you let your dog roam or lend it out to mate how is it going to cause unwanted puppies? I have 6 dogs, 3 are entire and until I'm ready to breed I don't have accidents. I have never had an accident and I have had entire dogs most of my life. Responsible owners stop unwanted puppies, not forced desexing. The hormones produced by the sex organs are actually growth hormones during the dogs developmental phase. They contribute to the development of the skeleton, muscles, connective tissue and organs. Large and giant breeds take a long time to grow due to the massive size proportionate to birth size they have to achieve. Most breeders I know of any dog bigger then shin height recommend leaving the desexing until later, or vasectomise a male (bitches can have ovaries left in but uterus/cervix removed) Most people think only of males as needing their hormones but bitches can also suffer incontinence due to early speying (I have a couple of clients who were never told this by their vet until after their house and dogs started to be covered in urine patches)

You need to teach the dog a LEAVE command to signal 'it's none of your business' and to redirect focus. You need to signal to the dog to attach no value to the stimulus on your command, and she picks it up first she needs to look to you for a signal to tell her what to do. Contact Petresortsaustralia.com.au about training or about recommendation of someone close to you. I wouldn't get internet advice for something like this I would get someone with actual experience in working breeds to give you a proper head start with the dog. You should have seen my little bitch then ... 7 weeks old and took a flying leap from the couch to try and attach herself to my friend after he wouldn't back off :p