Nekhbet

yup the only time I don't advocate a consequence like this is if the pup is going to go on to do something like personal protection and bitework. They are the only dogs I allow to play and nip, they get redirected to a toy but you always expect a good hearty chomp from them and it really hurts :laugh: but you have to suck it up. Every other dog can learn in one swift lesson that teeth on people are NEVER OK. Dog's learn faster from black and white lessons, not gradual and grey areas. That's why I don't understand Ian Dunbars way of letting a pup chew on you and gradually learn to (maybe) stop. When a dog chomps on another, the victim turns around and gives it one almighty lesson, not to hurt it but to provide it a consequence it will remember. Life's too short to be a chew toy :laugh:

dogs don't say ouch, high pitched noises tend to incite more nipping! When the pup is about to grab you try a loud growl 'UH UH', if he grabs hard just grab his scruff firmly and give him another growl. When he settles then reward with a toy and show him thats what he should be chewing. Hard chewers or larger pups get a thumb under the tongue and some pressure applied until they realise biting is not on. Always redirect the pup to what it should be doing, but give it a second to realise. If it's chewing on you and you immediately hand it something rewarding ... well, not really going to learn much of a consequence is it. If they throw a fit while you have their scruff, wait until they settle. Pups are great for throwing epic tantrums in order to get out of having to learn NOT to do something :laugh: Remember this is all done calmly, we dont want to frighten them, just teach them that it's extremely unacceptable.

we're going to start offering a few classes at dog school as part of the activities classes :) We're in Geelong.

Bulla Exhibition Centre Address: 5 Uniting Lane Bulla 3428 Melway 177 G9 From the Tullamarine Airport or city follow the Sunbury Road Turn right at Uniting Lane Calabria Club (Bulla Exhibition Centre) is located .3km on your left hand side To exit the grounds exit onto Sunbury Road or via Cemetery Lane which links up with Oaklands Road.

I understand, but that is in circumstances where the ratio of Ca:P ration in the diet is obviously adequate. The dog showed quite adament Pica before whelp and during meaning something is lacking, from the sound of the diet at least a little more Ca is required if not some trace elements (and as I mentioned before any pure protein source should have Ca added to it, not just sprinkle a big spoonfull over the whole meal)

If you add it to the prescribed amount to pure meat mince it wont be a problem. If its added to ALL meals no matter the Ca content then yes it's going over the top. Poultry bones are not really a great source of calcium, and the OP didnt say they were giving the dog any other until later in the thread. The OP said the dog had pica even when NOT in whelp. Unless it's an extreme behavioral quirk to actively dig to reach a certain type of soil, it means something is lacking. I have never had a dog actively seek and eat dirt or soil, even the rescues that have come in. If this was livestock the farmer would be out buying supplement blocks ASAP.

bloods would be a great start. Poultry bones are not very dense, I found they were not a great thing as an only source for my dogs either. Might be worth giving a calcium supp anyway considering she's pregnant as well, might just be below what she needs.

where's a solid calcium source with the mince? I would be tempted to add a little to any pure protein (ie not a raw meaty bone) and see if that fixes it as it's something inorganic she seems to be lacking. Conversely use something that is an all rounder type powder to add to the food, as it might be minerals as well as trace elements she's licking. Might be worth seeing what type of soil you have too and it will let you know what she's missing.

there's also pharaoh x bullmastiff/bull arab pups for pigging.

what is her diet exactly? Obviously there are some minerals lacking for her to be doing that.

I had to make do with a rather simple DIY course. I will have more space this year so we can do it properly :D

Good work MEH, could you let me know when they're done as I want to start doing it down here :D

the ingredients are basically byproducts, every filler, flavour and I think it also has colours/preservatives. Keep the dog alive I suppose.

what percentage of fat is he allowed to have? You will find most foods will be too high for him if he's on a severely restricted diet. What did your vet reccommend as a long term? I'm assuming you're looking at the Vet only lines that the vet has in his office at that price? You can't get advice from a forum with a condition like this you risk making your dog sick. Each pancreatitis dog is different and the consulting veterinarian should be the one naming brands.

There is no such breed as a 'staffy'. It's a coloqualism for a random bull breed which is why we're in the shit we're in. Your dog is either a pedigree Staffordshire Bull Terrier, American Staffordshire Terrier, of an indeterminate bull breed which can henceforth be labelled as a 'pit bull' if it conforms to a physical type that resembles it. We've spent too many years breeding up random dogs and when the shit hits the fan there's no proof of what they are. The she'll be right attitude of some dog breeding in this country is biting people on the arse big time.

I know a couple of aggression specialists depending on what area in Melbourne she's in, I'll pass on the contacts to you if you want them. If she can't afford private consults there are a couple of good dog schools that are experienced enough to deal with his behavior BUT the owner has to realise that there is no magic snap of the fingers. If she doesnt want to put in the time and effort better off putting him to sleep before he spends his entire life isolated and alone.

Protexin, or Vetafarm make Probotic which comes at a cheaper price. Yakult or Inner health plus are good too.

actually dogs vic dont call it an english stafford. No such thing. That's the hint your dog is not right for breeding. Pyometra should not be a common thing. If a young dog is already suffering pyo infections you may find she's probably not that fertile anyway. Are her lines maybe scarce because they have a history of health problems? I agree with Diva, I would be testing both dogs for canine herpes and other problems since their health is not that top notch. A repro vet should have mentioned this already.

There's a difference between a dog causing a god awful ruckus and 'looking' like it's going to then there's the ones who do. Not saying a FA dog wont give a few bites, it's still a dog. I've been training a few dogs in the past year that really pushed, despite how frightening their initial action is, wont follow through to the point of a take down.

Ever seen a fear aggressive animal tear down a yard, all alone, in the dark, and actively engage someone? Forward, confident and deliberate movement unrestrained goes against the core of what fear is about. Now if the dog was restrained we'd be in 50/50 territory :laugh:-

it's OK Kavik a malinois will make YOU work :laugh: As long as you dont mind being munched and yanked around you'll be right

I wouldn't call it that, the dogs territorial and guarding instincts are through the roof and I think the owners are merely living in controlled chaos ;) I'd call it lucky the owners got away with it this long without a council visit. It would be worth your husbands friend going and getting some proper training for this dog so it can learn to switch off and relax a little without feeling the need to guard all the time :) if you need a good trainer just PM me.

get a Malinois *L*

You do get some dogs with a natural ability for the job - but I would say taking an untrained dog with you on night shift is a little stupid too. Untrained doesnt necessarily mean wont work under pressure, but they're lucky that dog didnt turn around and bite them or severely maul the intruder. There is a massive element of risk in an untested dog and especially an aggressive one. I meant dogs in general, unless you have had them professionally trained there will be no guarantee that the dog will actually do what many people have this romantic notion of them going. Most modern breeds and lines have little protection in them, they will bark but that is an alert dog. More 'OMG WAKE UP! Go deal with that for me will you' type animal :laugh:

You've changed the routine and the dog is confused - normal and fine! Keep going you'll find he'll get faster at grabbing the toy :) Dead as in not moving? The toy shouldnt lose it's value, or should I say 'potential'. When the dog outs, it should mean that relinquishing hold of the toy signals that super fun awesome game starts again when mum says so, not an 'end of game' per say. Hence you get the dog pushing the toy into you or like one of mine, throws things at you Do you see how the out too can make a difference in how the dog flows with prey rewards? End of game encourages them to slide down, whereas a more 'give it to me and we restart' keeps the prey high and interest/focus strong :) Saying that too remember Kelpies were not really bred to latch onto things and hold them (fail sheepdog lol) whereas the guarding breeds were. Might just take a little more time because it could also be something in the back of the dogs head holding it back ... that little voice that say's nooooooooooooooooooooo! but you eventually overcome it when the dog realises how super duper it is :D