Nekhbet

you don't have to, but you learn what the correct method is. I dont see the point of doing a dog training course and not giving things a go though. You're not doing yourself any favours in the long run flat our refusing to use equipment you have never tried correctly.

I can vouch for the tear mender, just put some sports tape on there too

absolute rubbish. We had half a pallet of it at work that no one wants, even at below cost. Big chunks of indigestible grain in the kibble too I wouldn't feed anything by Hypro.

what does your trainer think? Or is it a prey driven behavior? Considering he's going for moving object such as cats as well and doesnt respect your control a front harness will do little in curbing any of this at all. I don't see how a collar is going to create a negative association for him, that is such an old fashioned notion. He needs his drive decreased to a level where he will listen and be able to accept reinforcement for good behavior. Loose leash walking and focus are part of decreasing reactivity and lunging behavior, they're all tied in together. If you believe the dog reacts in fear to objects he should never be off lead anyway as his reliability will be very low. Fear is an automatic reaction.

Delta won't teach you everything, they teach you what they believe is right. Read the Delta book once, highly entertaining. I did the NDTF course and they tell you, we teach you all and you then choose what you want to use, but at least you have all the facts. And that's what I was happy with.

why don't you use a martingale collar. His lunging needs to be properly addressed before you all get pulled over one day.

Mals are tubes ... give her a highly softened diet for a few days, well watered down and small meals only. It will pass if she's not vomiting.

If she's not willing to crunch things t/d might not work either, they're massive kibbles. Some vets sell little packs of t/d they bag up themselves see if you can grab that to try, or just use it like that. A raw diet might aid in reducing staining as well.

no shoulder problems at my place ... I don't think any owner should have anxiety to converse with their trainer. That's the biggest sign to find someone else. Training is about communication and working out what is both good for dog and owner, not cramming them both into your constraints and forcing them to continue because thats what you as a trainer prefer. If it doesnt work, you may have to do something out of your comfort zone if it means dog and owner are happy, and thats what matters most.

find a new trainer. If it is working and you are not hurting the dog, move on.

I started my girls on a flat collar to prevent deviation. Stuck close too, yes IPO/SCH allows no deviation off the track and you want their noses plastered to the ground. I also start with food and dragged footsteps so there are no gaps between the scent areas, it's one continuous line. Helps keep the dog nice and straight without turning their heads to try and pick up the next footstep.

what was the point of the chain if no popping :laugh: oh some people teach the darndest things Firstly, dogs have to learn that there is an end to the leash. You want them to self correct to the leash length and not to apply constant tension hence when they're about to pull you give a pop. The pop is the 'hand of god' per say ... it's meant to come out of nowhere. Give the dog a second to soak in the correction, then call them to you and reward for coming to you. The whole time the dog sticks to you and most importantly LOOKS at your face you praise heavily. This is the way you teach a dog 1) natural focus and 2) a dog that doesnt want to pull because being next to you is better. The further away they go from you the less rewarding it becomes. You also correct just as the dog begins to focus on something (if you have one of those that sees something like a dog/person and gets hyperactive and uncontrollable) Works really quickly and easily because you are only talking/giving commands when the dog is good. Leash walking shouldn't be a commanded trick, it should be an understanding between you and the dog. That is what makes it a permanent fixture.

a correction chain should be good on the neck already how are you using it? The point is to give a sharp pop just before the dog applies tension on the leash and regain focus, then reward for continuing focus. A mountain choker cannot apply a sharp correction, all you can really do with it is choke the dog and unless you have an aggressive, thrashing adult you dont need to do that. Maybe try a session with a trainer to get the basics down pat, the dog should be able to walk in one session.

Is it high drive causing the pulling or simply a case of lack of foundation work and focus? What dog you have F11 and what lines?

cetrigen is only good if you do it outside and leave them there for a while ... it's now a rather luuuuuurid shade of pink which stains everything. I think bullbreedlover has a point, you can do so much slathering things on it but there comes a time where biting the bullet and fixing the cause of the problem may be a better option for the dog in the long run, before the infection sets into deeper tissue layers.

I have ferrets that can drag them out for you ;) you're welcome to come one day Aye, tis a noble sport. I wish it was more commonplace, we have so many rabbits and so many wasted dogs. OH is desperate for a rabbiting dog, he wants to try a pharoah but needs to get it from a pup so it learns to be around ferrets and how to listen to the ground properly. His last rabbiter was a ridgeback x I think.

I appreciate your detailed response Dasha, it's great to get information from people who have experienced the practical side as it's quite rare these days my point was more for pet dogs starting scentwork. I have seen those dabbling in it and the dog takes it upon themselves to then tear up the kitchen/handbag. Considering owners would only be getting say, one class a week or fortnight, would it not be safer for the uninitiated to maybe just (at the beginning) not have the target odour within reach of the dog? It's a side effect of inexperience and you can't blame pet owners for that :laugh: I understand dogs cannot live in a sterile environment, conversely you would not want the dog in an environment flooded with target odours and residues all over the place. Sensory complacency does happen in dogs as well, does it not? You must have had a ball Dasha!

You would be surprised what so called trustworthy people have in their houses :p That is information I got directly from AQIS in Victoria. Maybe I should write them a letter to let them know they're wrong, you want to help me PAX? You obviously have all the information at hand about the obvious misinformation they have passed along. And what about a time a handler is threatened and cannot give the command for the dog to work in the case of a PP dog.

the woman was yanking away and her giant rottweiler totally ignored it. We swapped to a normal and he responded instantly. They just dont seem to work in the same fashion.

Many scent detection dogs do not live in family homes, otherwise the fact they live around the smells they are meant to alert to (therefore learning to become passive to odours and missing reward opportunities) can interfere with their effectiveness. Departments like AQIS only have their dogs in a kennel environment. Yes and no. A dog knows the difference between an obedience and dining table. But when you are asking for so much enthusiasm for a dog and you teach that the reward comes from detection of the scent, what do you think the average higher drive dog would do? And you would have to reward it, commanded or not. A good detection dog should never be ignored or chastised because it alerted to an odour without command, most departments would have a really poor performance rate if the dogs ONLY did their work when directly commanded.

sorry was on my way out when I wrote that. It's something you understand when you see it, the dogs go into that puppy mode of when the mother puts the teeth around their neck to calm them, you just see them calm down and their eyes soften. Very zen :laugh: not total regression, dear god I'd go mad if I regressed two Malinois to that age It seems to just touch on something way back when the dogs were pups, those more carefree simple times... call me crazy but I see it. For some dogs it is like a comforting thing to have on, just like some dogs behave better and love the feeling of a muzzle on. It works on the dogs primal level without a person having to give massive corrections on the hard necks of some dogs, and the best thing is the dogs don't pull against the collars because they can self correct on them. The minute they apply forward pressure onto them they get the sensation that tells them 'uh uh we don't do that thanks' faster then a correction chain can. In the US they call them power steering for dogs because they are so great. It's something that works with the dogs brain, not just something you yank on. not that I would know any of this *L* Secretkei those necktechs are for the smaller or really soft dogs. Saw one on a rottweiler once didn't work at all.

They are actually a great tool in helping calm and control dogs, they work on a pressure point system that effectively regresses a dog back to puppyhood when used properly. So many dogs actually love them, there is no pressure on the neck like a correction chain and no big corrections either in harder dogs. Extremely popular over seas as just an everyday training collar like we use correction chains believe it or not. You can order online disintegratus. Not that I know *L*

not that I know any of this of course I'm merely guessing *L*

get them from k9pro, get the herm sprenger stainless steel ones and don't get a quick release clip on them. Unless you have a truely giant giant dog, use the medium, the links are too big on the large.

THere is also what they call the Dutch Boxes, which teaches the dogs to search under distraction. You can also get the ball launchers that fire vertically from boxes that sit on the ground with target odours inside, it's too much for just the average pet dog. Then there is handler technique. Deliberately leading the dog to the odour, correcting the dog, ignoring the dogs body language etc. It's why I'm putting scent detection, tracking and off lead agility in their own separate small classes with a seminar session first, there's more too it then people think.