Nekhbet

I think let you and the dog get to know each other before going on walks. Spend more time in the back yard working on him understanding what you want and what commands you use. Well the idea is that, I find the reality usually the opposite particularly if the dog has already gone past the point of caring about sensations or what the handler is doing. They just twist their heads back and go for gold in a stupid position instead. Personally most harnesses can go in the bin, a well fitting correction chain, a 6 foot lead and a pocket full of treats/toy would be the way I recommend. If he goes to pull, a quick flick of the lead and call him back to you clearly, then heavy praise for any time he pays attention to you. Rewards are saved for when he's doing a super job so it keeps him on his toes. If he bolts and hits the end he will correct himself, pop his collar to make him turn to you and walk away from the stimulus then reward for him remaining close and focusing on you. Works in a day if you put the effort in but dogs with reactivities cannot be started on front attach harnesses. He needs a clearly defined boundary of what is acceptable or not in his behaviors.

The jafco already is full of holes. Use the Kong Stuff'n paste and teach the dog to receive a lick of it through the muzzle

Of course you can. As always how far the dog actually gets at polished performance in the disciplines will depend on the handlers skill and time put in. I have had multi disciplined dogs, but then my dogs have been drivey and the rotation between jobs was good for them. I think assess your dog and its capabilities, better to master one first then move on if you have not done it before.

I agree with this. If they learn from the stafford you will have a pack formed that starts killing wildlife. I think work on the stafford before getting another, a pug wont say no to grabbing a small animal if it learns it from the staff.

yay home trial this week!

we're going to have some more photos done Saturday morning, there is one family coming down to see him then too so fingers crossed!

see a greyhound bloke then decide. My bordeaux had supposed severe problems as an adolescent, limping, unable to walk long distances etc until we went to the chiro. A few sessions fixed his back, then we built up the muscle and went for adjustments every so often. For a 60kg dog he did everything I wish I had photos of him still over agility equipment like the A frame and walk over.

I see Neil Maurer in Lal Lal, greyhound guy worth his weight in gold with all the working dogs. My friends now go see him there is nothing that man cannot fix and sporting dogs/muscular problems are his specialty.

noooooooooooooo no no no unless you're feeding a raw protein source like mince, only add to that. EVen then I use products like Sprinter Gold Whelp n Grow or the Vets All Natural Health Booster Powder

Yes. Thankyou. Purchase order has been created lol I spent ages today reshuffling the fridge at work so there's loads of space for it :D

Hello all, we have not had enough bites for this fabulous dog! If you know of anyone looking for a labrador who does definitely NOT act his age then contact me! http://www.petrescue.com.au/view/174322 His foster carer cannot care for him much longer due to personal reasons, they have been extremely generous with their time and efforts but Ben really needs a home of his own.

oh why so far away!

We just got a new student today ... a bull breed cross adopted out WITHOUT A TEMP TEST. I couldnt get within 6 feet of the owner without facing a lot of pearly whites and tail wedged firmly in between her legs, shaking and growling at me. WTF seriously is wrong with people?!

I would not be walking that dog up hill at all in her condition. Flat ground, short walks at her own pace. Uphill puts more weight onto the back end - swimming or grassy areas are ideal. I just noticed the pulling as well I would strongly recommend against that too in any way shape or form as it puts pressure on the hips and elbows as well.

I use the muscle powder for my older bitch on and off to keep her going after she had acidosis, there is also a high vitamin E product that helps degeneration. The oil made by sprinter gold would be something to consider too as retail is only about $12 for 500mls!

Clash most minces you will purchase will be reasonably similar in fat/protein content due to the parts of the animals put through the mincer. Dr Syme recommends kangaroo mince as it is leaner, of course if you serve your dogs mince with massive globules of fat through it (eg sausage mince or home minced parts) the fat content will go up.

I meant on the original PDF you put up the calcium levels 'per serve' were the post mixing with meat levels, not just the levels in the Complete Mix product on its own. The product is made to be mixed with mince not raw meaty bones.

http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/images/stories/Products/raw76sheet.pdf Clash I think the values there are when it's mixed with meat to the ratios on the packs, not just of the dry mix. The Raw76 range has enough calcium and comparable to the complete mix.

forgot to mention, I would be giving this product a whirl http://www.sprintergold.com/#!muscle-pro

I'm sorry but I've seen some greyhound people use some absolute shite on their animals to get rid of parasites. They come and buy horse/cattle products, garden insecticides etc as long as its cheap and in bulk, because 'this other bloke has been using it for years and never had a problem'.

There are 4 main reasons for bad breath - teeth - skin/hair around mouth - anal gland licking and it sticks - bubbling up from the stomach start with some good doses of Vetafarm Probotic or Protexin if his teeth are pearly white.

One or two good malaseb baths is the way to go. Can also use it as a cleaner for the chin of the schnauzer, I would be feeding that dog out of stainless steel bowls and trimming the hair away to let the air get to it.

Selamectin is in the family of Ivermectin. Milbemycin in products like Milbemax are a close related group. The thing is Pfizer say it has a greater margin of safety in collie breeds, not that it's 100% safe.

depends what the quality of life will be. I just put to sleep my own pup because the prognosis long term post surgery was not good enough for the dog. His breeder and his parents breeder agreed. 8 Months of age. Decide what you want to do, and speak to the surgeon honestly about what they think. The dog already has a list of problems now this on top. Frankly if the dog was going to live a life of limited mobility and not be able to live the way it deserved without pain then I would PTS.

yup my rottweiler was worst then that. He lived until 4 years of age as the surgical option on a 50kg dog was in no way guarenteed. My thought is now having gone through 2 severe HD dogs is give them a good life, then PTS. Sounds harsh but I watched 2 dogs miss out on so much despite not being in pain, it wasnt fair to see their faces while they watched others do what they couldnt.