Nekhbet

See I live in a permanent state of denial :laugh: despite the fact I know this breed could pull apart chain mesh fencing with no effort. Hey at least she had the brains to go take it down the hallway, out the door, down the steps and to the grass before exploding it. Maybe she thought it was a bomb and she better save me from the exploding foam shrapnel If she's not careful I will send her to the military, she's got a nose on her See now it makes sense why the other two came in to lay down right near me pretending to sleep this morning before I got up ... they know if I catch a dog doing that you can hear it in the next suburb :laugh: so now they all dob on each other I'll take the other Mal shopping for a new bed today, Scooby better be careful being such a daddy's girl ... Rogue was here first and she's the biggest daddy's girl of the lot ... Scoobs in for an arse kicking from her if she keeps up the sucky routine :laugh:

Flush it down the sewer BRILLIANT You think :p 3 bitches in the house OMG ... All I want is a male dog at least Scooby is desexed, so we're not having world war 3 ... 3 entire female Malinois even I would move out ...

you know this was a dog that was so painfully shy you picked up a chopstick and she would flail like a panicked bird... now she has the audacity to sit there with a 'pfffft bite me' look on her face ... this is bed #2 she's shredded mind you, she managed to get through a super swanky tough camo bed I bought for Rogue a couple of weeks ago. Then she runs to OH, snuggles into his lap and peeks at me like 'SEE DADDY LOVES ME!' Daddy's girl anyone?

I'm thinking I should give it a quick hose first then scrape it into a wheelbarrow ... then from there who knows

It's my day off, OH leaves the back door open when he goes to work early. I wake up to THIS The rescue Mal has dragged a giant Snooza D1000 bed out the back door, and went to town on it ... I dont even know where all the cover fabric has gone Oh no it wasn't you Scooby was it ... She could at least LOOK a little more guilty I don't even know how to get all that cleaned up ... can someone remind me when I put my foot down and said I am never getting another rescue dog again I took this bloody thing in? And now, somehow, am getting suckered in by OH and all my friends that I have to keep her because she's doing so well at my place?

I think people also need to realise holistic 'vaccines' are not really vaccines at all, as they do not create an immune response. No immune response, no immune memory.

I guess the OP is willing to risk an extremely high mortality rate then. Sad really. I have two science degrees and almost 10 years experience in the veterinary/pet industry and I still believe in at least initial vaccinations. I'va also had a dog with Parvo virus and had to nurse him for weeks in my lap, praying he wouldnt shit himself to death and just to take one little bite of food to live, carry on and not just shut down and die in my arms. So no vaccines, meaning the OP would have the supposed healthiest dog in Australia but wouldnt leave the backyard for fear of catching a deadly disease because of no immunity. By the way Distemper is still particularly prevelent in a lot of areas, no coming back from that. I suppose the other option is to watch your dog convulse to death because of your 'research'. I guess some people just dont care and would put it down to 'nature'.

the diagnosing veterinarian should be offering you diet advice with such a serious condition. Do you mean Nephrogenic Diabetes Insipidus? Would it also not depend on the cause of the disease as well?

Honey, they start dog training businesses and advertise they're qualified to deal with aggression and dominance. http://www.youtube.com/user/DogWhispererKev?feature=watch

Why not do both at the same time if you have the opportunity. Inbuild a proofing mechanism where the dog actively seeks your attention over reacting in times of stress, right from the start. Two birds, one stone. Practice the complete picture from the very start so the dog has that mental safety net and you find they learn faster as well. I also find regression rates or lack of coping in new environments low because they're put in that realistic environment from the get go and taught what to do start to finish. This isn't trick training this is behavior, and training the owners as much as the dogs is another part of making the whole thing work. Owners need proofing too :laugh:

You can't always do that in real life, a lot of the time the actions of others are out of your hands. I've tried looking on Youtube but I think the hippies whinged enough until they got taken down. Used to be a few really good ones I should have saved them

What a load of rubbish. It's a baby in a new environment and it was all too much for him. There is nothing wrong with pups just sitting back watching until they get the confidence to go join them. Too many supposed trainers these days - watch a few Cesar Milan DVDs and suddenly you're a behaviorist

no its 13kg a fortnight, not a day

He will come to settle, but you have the perfect opportunity to cement good habits now that he is new with you. Harness that enthusiasm towards yourself instead of other things and he will settle quickly. Timing is not too difficult, if you see him starting to want to forge ahead or getting too disinterested in you, give him a command he knows, a chance to comply, then correct and walk him on. Another mistake people make is standing there calling and popping the dog. That is the best way to get the dog to react in fact, if he does not comply and he HAS heard you clearly (so be mindful how you speak) then the correction is fair. If you give a correction and nothing happens, that is not a correction. Give him a good pop, you will find he remembers that over a million niggling ones which really do nothing but build the dog up to ignore you.

A few tips where people go wrong with correction chains - never have any other collar on the dog, they get tangled and you cannot give a proper correction - the chain should be just big enough to fit over your dogs head, when tightened there should be no more then 3 inches left over. Oversized chains cannot correct properly - do not go out and just get the thickest thinking it will work. Most of the time a 2.5mm thickness is sufficient, and I recommend the Herm Sprenger solid stainless steel. Thick chains do not run through the look properly, and cheap chains can rust, break, or leave marks on your dog from the rubbish material they use - the chain is meant to sit loose around the dogs neck. I get a lot of people saying 'oh it wont stay high on the neck'. It is not meant to, it is meant to apply no pressure at all until you require correction. Hence why they are so black and white - do not pull the leash up tight. The collars work with a loose leash and a quick, sharp pop. If the dog pulls into them they're useless, or small leads cannot give a good correction - the side your dog is on, the ring which has the chain running through it is to be running down away from you This is the correct way of putting on the chain this one is on upside down and will remain tightened. The ring is meant to pull the chain back open This I dont like. You have to keep constant pressure on the dogs throat for it to remain there, and the only way to correct is to apply pressure until the dog settles. This is for professional use only so please dont let someone convince you its the right way.

I would love to see x-rays of this dog

definitely too much long bone growth. He probably can't gain more weight or he'll collapse the way he's looking. My rottie looked similar, for some reason the long bones just kept going but not to this dogs degree.

It depends what your budget is ... you can easily go into a six figure investment if you want a luxury kennel set up with no adjoining, air con, synthetic turf etc remember too your council will want you to remove the waste - so you will have to pay for a big bin on site. Also you will have to be responsible for creating drainage and waste water run off, you will have to see if your property is approved for that as you will use a LOT of water. Plumbing jobs can cost thousands to have done properly, dont do it well and you can flood out or have backed up stinking drains full of dog waste and chemicals.

Ahhh different reaction then. A fearful reaction moving away from the object is not for correction :p I was thinking you meant he was actively reacting towards something ie wanting to chase it

just plain old iodine. Betadine in the little squeeze tube, and pop them if you can.

Corrective equipment is not meant to apply constant pressure to the neck. It is there to apply a correction to tell the dog 'hey we don't act like this thanks' and it is a quick sensation. Flat collars and harnesses apply no corrective effect in dogs like this hence they choke themselves and carry on like pork chops. Before the leash is taught you give a 'reverse poke' as I call it. A quick flick and redirect the dogs attention with your voice. But you cannot walk dogs on a tight short lead whilst learning. Lets look at examples. When we train dogs for bitework and agitation what do we do. Keep a firm hand on the lead, dont allow slack, keep pressure on them because it makes them oppose and pull forward. When you try and use pressure like this to move your own dog as a pet the same principles apply - escalation of anxiety which is released in various different ways depending on the dog. now how many people do you see with that same pose in parks and streets when their dogs go bananas because the equipment affords them no corrective properties with which to help quell or prevent that behavior. Now read that as having an impact on the behavior expression, NOT just trying to help them lever the dog into a different position. Oh those sporn harnesses ... my god I hate them The step of consequence is missing a lot in training these days and hence we're finding the training process becomes longer and you have to be further and further away to make it work. There is nothing wrong with a dog getting a correction if it will help the dog understand this behavior is very wrong, but the dog also needs to be immediately shown what to do and rewarded heavily. Black and white, no grey. Very fast learning. See this is not how I train. Don't take this personally this is just my thought process - to me this is man handling the dog to get it to stop. There is no conscious thought process being taught in the dog to say 'hey this behavior has an alternative that will get me a reward I might make an effort to get that reward on my own'. You turn the dog. You have to keep turning the dog. I would not reward a dog I have to physically turn off something with my body, that is not completing a clear picture in that dogs head. If the dog has gone off it's head, correct, firmly turn and command dog to follow and move it. A clear picture the dog has done the wrong action. Settle the dog and try again, the dog should know you have a reward available. Get within a safe distance and let the dog CHOOSE. Do you want a correction that comes from nowhere, or do you want to stick with your handler who praises you and gives you rewards for your awesome focused behavior. The dog learns to think, the dog learns to weigh up situations and you find it's so clear cut they just cant be bothered reacting after a short while. I do not allow people to shout at their dogs, you are meant to be the best thing since sliced bread to this dog why would it want to come near you if you 'NO NO NO NO' at it. That's what equipment is for, to do that job. This is still predominantly about heavily motivating the dog to learn, it just includes a consequence if it decides to try something silly. And since the dogs actions will make the consequence just appear, you see the dogs mind tick over as in 'ok fair call, I stuffed up' and they go on their merry way. No fight, no fear, no tantrums. You're just introducing a safety net that may mean the difference between life or the dog one day fighting or running under a car because that extra little niggling reminder of not to do it wasnt in its head.

Just remind the owner as dogs get older, just like humans, they need that bit extra to help them out. If the poo is stinking and in great volumes he is not digesting, which means he's losing vital nutrients especially in this delicate time of life. Supplements and cartrophen wont help old age if the whole diet is just poor in general, most dogs put on better diets can actually decrease or just go off the supplements because they're being nourished from the inside out. What does the skin look like where the coat is missing?

I bypassed the whole fiddle faddle process and went to the Vets All Natural range. At least you know its complete and you can always change the protein sources. www.vetsallnatural.com.au for supplements I go for the Sprinter Gold products, absolutely adore the Muscle Pro powder for conditioning and preventing tying up after exercise in the older Malinois.

This is a Malinois from europe (yeah I wish I was that thin, but thanks for the compliment ) Check out the rest of this girls youtube channel he also does agility, frisbee and protection. The sky is the limit but remember not to burn your dog out if it is not suitable for everything, or try and teach too much at once and confuse the dog.

http://www.plasticoat.com.au/mine-ducting.shtml I got mine from here, extremely durable and they make them specifically for agility too