Nekhbet

Come on people ... ROAD TRIP IT! I already have one DOLer coming down next weekend to stay at my place and for some reason she wants to be covered in Malinois photos will ensue p.s. I have a very large yard and a dog run, what could POSSIBLY go wrong

WOOHOO look at you all getting yourself a man and stuff :laugh: congrats hun :) Hey everyone's more then welcome to come to Casa De Crazy. Come on I live with 4 Malinois and 20 ferrets, I'm already ahead on the insanity stakes. You can't bring me anything I havn't seen before or that will shock me, trust me :laugh: We've had a couple of batty dog days before, my rottie picked on a big male Sarplaninac, the cockers all just sat on the top step teasing everyone else, OH got mauled by a GSD ... as you can see it was a terrifying day hey when people come down I cook too. Lots. We can have a crazy dog BBQ! OMG it would be awesome! Just bring crates, treats, iodine, bandages, a side salad, we'll be fine!

No one actually knows what I have implemented except Jelly, so to comment on what needs to be done by myself - and read that as people telling me how to do my job - is redundant. I am far from the type of person to string a client along when I can get results in a direct manner that will be long lasting - that's what is good for the dog and that is always my primary concern. You're welcome to come down and pick my brain on a quiet saturday with your own dogs if you have the time, or you can muck around with a couple of mine. Or feel free to bring down any random mental dog, we're easy :laugh:

inline_k9 @ yahoo.com

just FYI I do scent detection at my dog school in Geelong.

Don't muzzle the dog, that will not fix the problem. Also that dog can bash your old dog in a muzzle and injure him - they get sneaky with muzzles if they want to push a point once the novelty wears off. It's also not a nice way to live, and you're not fixing the root of the behavior. Separate, crate, and supervise interaction until they're sick of each other and really over the novelty. One month I kept an old pug separate now she's the cow in the household lol not the 4 Malinois

As for high pitched noises ... you can see this pup is really put off by them

When she goes to bite you, press your thumb under her tongue and hold it. She'll carry on like a pork chop but say nothing at all. If you let go and she goes in again, go again but a little more firm this time. She has to learn what it actually feels like when she does it. Squealing incites more excitement, giving a toy does not get the idea through that teeth on people = bad. Don't feel sorry doing it, it's better then your child being covered in bite marks because the pup never got the point. The point is to deal with the behavior directly. Pups are at an exploratory stage and for something this potentially serious there is nothing wrong with really putting your foot down and stopping it in one go. It's something personally I don't believe in playing at over a prolonged period. The only dogs I've redirected onto toys are the working dogs I don't want to totally instill bite inhibition towards humans - but then down the track it's not the result you want from your dog :laugh:

separate the dog and do not let it out with yours at all until you teach it the new rules of the house. Crate time, outside alone time and on lead in the house only and you supervise all interaction on lead with your dog. You do this until you get a lid on things properly. I NEVER let a new dog just go out with my own it would be world war 3 particularly with the breed you have. The dog needs to learn it's place, what behavior is tolerated and expected and that you are the primary leader in the house to look to for guidence. You can't do that with a riding crop and free for all, you need to control the dogs ability to be rewarded and punished for behavior.

I think I'm going to put my foot down on this talk and speculation. This is still, at least in most part, a private professional relationship between myself and Jelly. She can posts up whatever she feels comfortable to on here, I am open in what I do, but if her or I do not divulge EVERY single detail to you lot, that does not mean it's time for speculation, or panic behavior. The medication situation and effects, as well as previous medication trials have been taken into consideration with my decisions regarding roo as well. They haven't actually. Not at all. In fact the dog's moving backwards on the medication. It's OK greytmate, I actually know what I'm doing and your constant insistance of a time frame and written plan are frankly, annoying - I don't plan on protracting this situation forever but frankly our agreement is none of your business. Your insinuation like I'm some DVD scholared behavioral trainer is insulting. I do what I do, it works. I have spoken IN DEPTH to Jelly A LOT about all facets of this situation, and I literally have my phone open to her 24 hours a day, no matter what the problem is. I'm the last person to be unrealistic about this situation and Jelly knows this, but ultimately I will help her until she says she doesnt need my help anymore for whatever reason that may be. So keep this thread light, that is the point of it.

I agree with Wreckit at the moment, remove sources of conflict until you get proper professional help He's escalating because you're creating a stressful situation and the prospect of a stressful loss of resource he sees himself entitled too. He's also a male dog coming up to maturity so previous stress he had over loss is now manifesting itself in a more serious way. That won't make a difference unless you are literally teasing him with resources. I think you're just now seeing the byproduct of a long term lack of structure and understanding over the resources. Don't look at internet advice get yourself a session with someone that has experience with resource guarding issues and can assess how you can change it without creating more confrontation.

Have you looked into the Vets All Natural range of foods? Its how I peeled a heap of weight off the pug and she stays full (well, for a pug anyway :laugh:) so even those that cannot stomach bones can still get the raw diet benefit. If you dont want to use the complete mix you can use the Health Booster Powder to balance it out and add what you like for your dog. I can't fault the product, I use beef mince as chicken I find too lean and dry for my dogs

If he's ribby thats not that bad for a young dog. If he gained weight from the beef it means he's simply lacking calories, chicken wont provide as many but if thats all you can give them up it for him. I think he's just a fit, hungry young dog

If he's thin then feed him more often across the day of what he's allowed to eat. He's hungry and lacking something in his diet so he's scavenging. As for not allowed beef, is it medical or preferential? If he gains weight from it and has no side affects it might be worth trying. I have a mal here at the moment that tries the same thing, you put the food down and he eats like he's starving to death. It's a learned behavior though, we're getting there :laugh: he's not trying to swallow my hand for a treat now

They're made as a food dispenser, to feed the dogs meals out of them not to just smear paste inside for the dog to stick its tongue into.

No I have a couple here trained in tracking and some scent detection, they know until the word is given not to do the job. If your dog finds rewards come from you, you shouldn't have an 'ignoring you' problem

Personally I think Roo was better off the meds then on them. I'll speak to you tonight Jelly.

tranquil paste its a horse supplement. Why don't you have the dog over at your place while he's out?

No I wouldnt breed from this bitch either. It's not a short term, common problem she has multiple long term problems happening. Does the vet know about the additives? Have you also been keeping a food diary of everything that goes into her mouth? Rappie's right, have they done enough tests to see what it actually is or are they just throwing everything at the dog until it works, and ruining it's good body bacteria in the process.

nawwww he's gorgeous! Just remember he is a baby, dont put too much pressure on him. I teach pups with food, just keep calling them to you, reward heavily and encourage focus and the walking comes with it. Heeling is a lot of pressure, dont go to university before finishing primary school!

Correction chains are not to be used on young pups, no wonder he's thrashing himself around. Get a normal nylon lead, thick one, and a martingale collar at most. Put them on him and let him drag it around to you, use food to distract him - something nice like sausage, kabana etc not dry muck that has little value. Raw meat if you have to in tiny pieces. http://leerburg.com/flix/player.php/734/Scott_Kapphahn_and_his_12_Week_Old_Puppy,_Havok,_Working_on_Engagement I think watch the video and see how the owner interacts with the dog, it's not about force, its about relationship building. If he wont take the food dont feed him unless he's on lead and feed him in small meals over the day to keep him hungry and keen, and associate the leash with good things. I would also get the leash training and focus under control before taking him out for walks, there is no use doing it if he's not ready to listen and learn.

Considering they're an off the shelf product, I see it a lot. Or they don't work at all and the owner is still dragged. It's just they're so gentle and nice, how could they cause ANY harm at all! This is what I don't understand about giving out dogs you are going to invest a lot of time and money into - you give them to mostly untrained people for the most impressionable time of their lives. We lived perfectly well without harnesses for hundreds of years, it's about effort. If you get a dog back at 12 months that pulls I would be reeducating the volunteer or find someone else if they refuse to listen. You then look into how many potentially good dogs are slipping through the cracks because the right work has not been done. Raising a working pup is more then just feeding and walking it around.

That is a common problem, the harnesses create some discomfort for the dog but a strong dog ignores them. They're applying no consequence to the behavior so they do not work as the 'tool' you want them to be. The tool still has to suit the dog. If the dog is being rubbed raw then a harness is a useless piece of equipment for that dog. You are in NSW and you are allowed to use a prong, everyone is allowed to use a correction chain but I think prongs are nicer on the neck and for people with bad timing. You're not meant to yank the dog around it's simply showing the dog in an extremely effective manner that pulling is not allowed and if you pull there is a consequence, stick with your owner and you get a reward. You still need to train but it affords you control for more powerful or pain tolerant breeds that you still have to muscle on a harness. As for levering dogs around with head halters and harnesses, that still putting pressure on their necks and backs if they're walking sideways. I suppose if you dont hear a yelp or see blatant pain signals it must be OK.

Hey I'm sick I'm allowed to not make sense :laugh: I'll send you one, it has a Malinois poking out the front The 'corrective' function of the harness is that low, I see it as less or no more then using a flat or martingale collar. If the dog is that soft why should I send my clients out to buy something 3 times the price of what they have or can buy that will work. My clients throw the harnesses out of their own choice, I don't make anyone do anything they don't want to do. But personally, I think they are the long way round the short path and just a waste of money for most people.

You can teach the dog as many things as you like, just dont use the same commands. So tracking and scent detection would have two separate commands available to them