Nekhbet

If you use the food method first you need to associate the command with the action. Drag your feet in a 1.5m wide circle, scuff it good and you need to use quite tasty food like meat, kabana etc. Break it into tiny pieces the dog cannot see at all and scuff it into the grass. Jump out of now fresh scent pad. Walk dog up to scent pad and encourage to drop it's head, while the dog is in the scent pad say the command (search, find it, such, etc) and praise ONLY when you hear active sniffing. When the dog moves out of the scent pad, lifts its head or you do not hear heavy sniffing say nothing at all the dog will get it quick smart and be rewarded quickly for keeping a deep nose. Then move scent pad into short track (eg 2m) decrease scent pad small scent pad -> longer track jackpot food at the completion of all tracks but make sure it's hidden so the dog cannot rely on sight to find the end of the track food along the whole way not too far apart (about a footstep apart) and when you finish your track jump out of it or your dog will follow past and you may correct it for something you see as a mistake but is not. you do all tracks and scent pads scuffing your feet not footsteps while the dog is learning. I know a lot of people do footstep tracking but frankly I dont have any issues with any dogs trained like this falling off tracks, veering with strong cross winds, double backing or losing a scent. The dogs also never lift their heads because it's not rewarding to do so. I dont like kibble because the dog has to pick it up and chew it, even small ones. It's distracting and frankly not that rewarding. Make sure the dog is hungry, and fresh treats are more rewarding in tiny pieces because of their oil content. If you can grab some feral cat wee or a dead one to drag with you too that can help her associate track = cat. Not just tracking for man but cat and reward her catching a cat skin or something she likes as well. I have a dog at my school that does tracking through prey drive only, totally ignores food, we started with scentwork first with his toys under flower pots to teach a search command then worked backwards from there. He's now starting hard surface soon and we're thinking of taking him out into the bush for man searches while the weather is cool. Trick is always about rewarding at the right time and helping the dog in the learning phase. Had a little cav x poodle doing car searches, 100% success rate in a few sessions on food rewards. Great little dog could slip in under the wheel arches and bodywork no problems lol

A friend's parents have separated and neither can look after the 9 year old toy poodle who is a diabetic. She is 9 years old and requires daily injections, he would take her himself but he is not allowed to have pets at his house. If you know of a reputable rescue organisation that will ensure the dog has the proper care and feeding regime please let me know ASAP can you SMS me on 0401389863 the dog is in Geelong

The labels at Coles and the UK website look different. The protein levels are also different it said made with 50% real meat and the protein level was about 23%? It is a cheap aussie version under license?

Go to the greyhound forums and ask there, most people have them and you might grab a bargain. We used a human treadmill we picked up for $50, nice big one they just took a bti of training Saying that I just got a proper greyhound treadmill ... $15 from the wrecking yard

UKC is it's own registry and not FCI registered, so you cannot register UKC dogs with any other FCI affiliated organisation. It's more a 'working dog' registry as they also register some of the US breeds that never made AKC status.

Listen to your breeder. Your puppy needs to learn to cope with the outside world and it's unpredictabilities, not be locked up at home. Bringing noises into your house is not the same as taking a dog out to different environments. Carry the pup, it will be small enough, or put it in a bag if you're worried, and driving around is a great start as they get used to the car as well. You can carry Parvo in on your shoes if you think about it. Don't go to high dog areas like beaches and parks. As for puppy preschools, there is no guarentee that the other puppies are under the same care as yours and are not being exposed. If you know the other dogs and they don't frequent dog parks/beaches/schools then socialise, they need adult interaction not just puppy interaction as the behaviors they learn are different. The few days after a vaccination the puppy is more delicate immunity wise so I would let it stay home and give it a rest to deal with the vaccine.

The pup is 4 months old. Unless it's lame or having mobility problems why are you panicking? Labradors are wobbly and stay wobbly for a while, it's how a lot of large breeds are which is why it is recommended not to over exercise. Stop panicking and don't go running to a PennHip vet for no good reason at all - I know one that recommends surgery no matter the score because it's 'better to be safe then sorry' in a lot of pups. Keep the pup lean, follow the breeders advice and if at 18 months you're having problems then get the breeder to pay for it. Don't go putting your pup under anaesthetic for no good reason but some uneducated persons opinion. Sorry but a breeder is just that - a person who breeds dogs. There is nothing in it to say they are ethical or actually know what they're talking about.

Whats with the surprise face Vickie? Whats wrong with helping the dog? I didnt say ram it into a stand position just put a little pressure on the collar to help it up and reward as soon as it does. Much faster then trying to let an already confused as heck dog try and work it out, get more confused and shut down.

put your hand on her collar and have a treat in your hand. When you give the release command help her up quickly and shove the food in her mouth. Repeat a few times then expand to you not helping her. Unless you physically get involved you can do what you want, the dog doesn't understand what you are trying to achieve.

Correction collars are only to be used on the dog when in training and a leash is attached. They are extremely dangerous in the dog park for getting caught on other dogs teeth or for the dog to hang itself at home unattended.

Even if they are a highly strung breed that is no excuse. All dogs need to learn to be quiet. I have working Malinois and trust me, if I let them run riot and go bezerk they would live up to some peoples expectations of spinning, screaming, ripping palings off fences etc. You have to put your foot down, put up with a bit of noise and show the pup that the screaming and carrying on does not work for them. All my dogs get taught to use a crate, sit in it and be quiet. They get chewy toys and treats so if they are anxious about something they can redirect their energy onto that. When I say quiet, you be quiet and go lie down. Working dogs need to be taught an off switch from a young age, and frankly to diagnose SA is just paving a path to trouble in a dog that young. It's normal puppy behavior from a loud breed, he's trying it on and seeing what it gets him. If he thinks he's successful then he'll keep doing it, simple concept that dogs put on people all the time. So don't panic about it, just tell hubby he has to train his puppy lol

He needs to suck it up and learn to cope. If you bred the dog you should have been separating and crate training up until now, if you have not then start. Give him a bone to chew on, leave him be and if he throws a fit, tough. Let him scream himself out. Make sure he's well exercised particularly if he's a working dog and totally worn out before being put to bed too and you will find he'll get over it. I dont see this as SA, frankly the fact it's a GSP is not a surprise for the behavior at all.

The dog is too unsocialised, it's probably partly genetic as well. Problem is it's not your dog. Lead the horse to water, it's their dog and their responsibility to train it. You can put in all the effort you want but if the owners wont change it's wasted in the long term.

what a load - that's not on steroids it's an angora ferret. Those inbred buggers grow to ridiculously huge sizes and have long coats, but their lifespan is short.

I'm at a seminar in Ararat at the moment but if you do contact me I'll bet back to you in the evening. You can send me an SMS too if you need to I can get to those a little more easily Julie

Yes contact Jane Harper ASAP :) Don't rehome before you try and don't think you're too nervous a personality. A good behavioral trainer will work within both yours and the dogs capabilities

The dog is worst on medication then off it. THe longer the dog is on said medication the worst dog gets. I think it's a no brainer that this has been tried, it's not working and frankly, a dog already with a high pain threshold on pills is not a good plan long term. We had more success off then on, and frankly Roo was a different dog off them. I think wean off time, come back to reality Roo roo XOXO

VIctorian law states that dogs left on a commercial premises outside of work hours for the purpose of 'guarding' must have signage as a dangerous dog.

I started the vet science course - finances prevented me finishing. I went to uni with people who had NEVER OWNED A PET. They were frightened, turned off and even rejected some species entirely. So, what do you expect those people to believe? Whatever they're told because their interest is not always lying on the straight and narrow. VAN is a complete food, it was made so people did not have to worry about adding this and that. Dog food is not the massive mystery some people make it out to be, dogs have done very well over thousands of years without dry kibble and cans. Over calcium can cause heart problems, muscular problems, kidney stones, GI problems, nutritional absorption problems, joint pain and bone problems. Everything has it's limit to when it can hurt you.

You can also try Pet Resorts Australia for some help http://www.petresortsaustralia.com/ Try Glenn Cook there

I think personally unless Roo is more comfortable in her own home and when she's off, or at least almost off, try a new dog. Personally I don't think it will make that much difference to her at the moment, and the problem is you're going to get a dog to suit Roo, not necessarily yourself. I say wait - daycare and your own home is two very different things, and Roo is not always open to liking other dogs near her when she's stressed.

har har har ... should that be Lollipup visits Nekhbet ... and LIVED! We're not crazy, really we're not *cough* Bring a camera. And I'm checking you're suitcase before you leave you can't have Rogue :p oh the fun we will have, oooooooh the fun : A friend might be having and engagement party in Sydney this year so I might be freighted up to you instead :p As long as we can work it around the viking restaurant and the aquarium I have time

Don't get too upset, it's a dog. Just like us they sometimes have off days, I have plenty of people who come to dog school and have the same thing happen. Hell, I'll travel over an hour to train my own and they sit there like, meh, can't be bothered. Think of the long term bigger picture and it will happen. Just chalk it up to experience ;)

No never a free for all here I reckon a DOL get together at my place on a nice Sunday in a couple of months is something to put on the cards, anyone can feel free to bring their dogs and we can have a nice BBQ, meet up and workshop.

I'll cook! I'll cook! Ooooooooooooh we need a lot of food and a day in the backyard ... who wants to be on the ground under all the Malinois conversely climb a tree with a tug toy and we can put bets on how many can climb it to get to you