Nekhbet

dont take the pup for long trips and make sure it hasnt eaten for at least an hour or two (or it has been toilet) so there isnt food bouncing up and down. Keep the temperature cool and have a window open a little for fresh air. start slow and she should grow out of vomiting

just be careful, very few people actually know or understand how schutzhund is not just training your dog to be a vicious killer. In fact well trained schutzhund dogs are better behaved then most people Pooky Poo. Shutzhund is not like Ring Sport or protection where the dog can go for any part of the body, not just the arm, whilst I've seen Schutzhund dogs only get riled up if theres a bite suit/sleeve involved. Declaring your dog as having done bitework can start more problems. Jeez my Mal has done it and yet she plays in the park with little kids just fine, even gets mauled by tots hugging and kissing her face. If I said to the parents 'Oh yeah and she can pull down a 100kg man in a bitesuit' what would the reaction be?? This is not Europe where it is more commonplace, we are dealing with the uneducated. They will see the dog as a vicious monster though it may have a family friendly temperament.

be careful that making high pitched noises can just encourage the puppy further as they think its a game. Especially higer drive dogs like GSDs. My Belgian Malinois was a little munchy machine when I got her so I feel your pain! You are now in place of the mummy dog so you have to start learning to growl NO when the pup really starts misbehaving. Your problems stem from the dog thinking you are lower in the pecking order then him and he's the boss. This can be dangerous if he carries this thinking into adulthood so nip it now! 1) teach this dog to sit. No option on this the pup has to learn that sitting and calming its behaviour means good things. If puppy preschool taught you how to teach them to sit then make sure you do this constantly. Putting the pup outside will not teach it a lesson really, sometimes you can create problems if you teach the dog that every time it is put outside it means punishment. Also dont be tempted to pull away or push him when he tugs clothing as this means encouragement. Yes dogs are weird ;) When it starts nipping, growl NO (and I mean growl with some real guts behind it) stand up, cross your arms and stare at the ceiling. The pup will probably nip, bite, sook, jump etc to get your attention. HOLD OUT!!! For your own sake hold out until it shuts up and settles. If it leaps up put you knee up and let it fall over (not kick it please but they trip over themselves if you put your knee up as they leap at you) and dont say a word. If you make any sort of contact the pup wins. When the pup sits, look down and quietly say good boy. If he starts being stupid again then repeat the ignoring (you may want to get some gumboots for this exercise) 2) Make sure you are PERSISTANT and CONSISTANT with obedience. Dont show the pup that following obedience is just for set times (which it already does as it behaves at puppy preschool and not at home) Follow through 24/7. If it snatches food from your hands put up you knee and let it stack itself. Put the food away, walk away and leave the little bugger hungry and without a treat. Trust me hungry dogs learn fast. If it snatches toys, growl NO, walk away and even shut the door behind you. Dont give him contact until he settles down. Dont give him an inch of slack because puppies need very defined boundaries at this age to be able to understand right from wrong behaviours. If you start blurring the lines or doing something one way and then the same thing another way another time the pup will never learn. Black and white. Make happy higher pitched noises when he does something right but do it calmly. Pat him calmly and speak softly to him when he does something right. If you squeak and bound around like a kid on sugar you are showing him being a spaz is a good thing!!! THeyre just like children at this age, and being so intelligent they will learn to train you better then you train them if you're not careful! EG some non negotiables should be: You try and mouth/bite me I leave you alone and dont acknowledge you You snatch food and you will go hungry You will be fed your meals when I say so and when you sit and behave Jumping up on me means you will fall down and be embaressed These pups are hard biters and chewers in puppyhood. They are an animal that was bred to work so the pups are a little harder then other breeds (my Belgian is a woking dog) so you have to be a little stricter. Not saying you suck the fun out of life but you have to mould the pup to fit into the family. The puppy must understand that its place is to respect humans and to learn patience. Dont expect miracles but dont put up with stupid behaviour because they do NOT grow out of it, it gets stronger and worst. Dont think that growling a big deep 'NNNOOOOOOOOOO" at him will traumatise him. Might scare the little bugger into some respect for you. Most importantly say things ONCE and once only. You dont ask a dog, you tell it. I ran puppy preschool and I had people saying 'sit, sit, sit, please, come one, sit for mummy, please baby' ad nauseum. Submissive dogs beg, dominant dogs tell. If you act like a submissive dont expect obedience from your dog. Work on your relationship before pushing obedience or its just rolling a boulder uphill for you. If you need more help PM me.

I have an entire male and he is not allowed to mark when we go for walks. Really its a pain and dont assume that just because you own a male dog it has to mark. If he stops and sniffs I give him till 3 if he cocks his leg I give him a tug on the lead and we walk again. I'm driven mad with stop starts so if he needs a proper piddle we stop but drippies are a no no because he started doing it at the local market on people trestle tables ;) whoops It is a dominance and ownership thing. There are bitches that will mark territory too so yes hormone removal may last but be careful once they even out he may start again. You just have to keep an eye on him and if you see him sniffing a certain spot for a log time then call him off it. Keep him in the same room with you, not really a good idea to let puppies have free roam of you house anyway especially your bedroom or anything else with 'personal' smells.

Check with the council he will be moving to. I think they are considered working dogs although many council rules state that any dog that has done bite work is to be classified as high risk. Is it titled or just training at the moment? Sometimes its better to just declare you have GSD and leave it at that.

hey Margeif aaaah bitches in season ... get ready for it ;) I have a Belgian Shepherd bitch that is just over 2 years and has had 4 seasons now. You will begin to know when your girl goes into season, her appetite will go haywire, she will become broody and moody. Just take care if you take her for a walk or out in public that their tempers can become short. Mine is reasonably well natured but once in season its on for young and old when it comes to other dogs. She really lives up to the name BITCH ;) Laundry is a great idea, you will find she'll spend a lot of time sleeping or just moping about. Get her enough toys, spend time with her when she comes out for you and she wont resent the confinement. Conversely a great idea is a steel mesh and steel piping completely enclosed run with a concrete floor. If the weather is nice she can live out there for fresh air and sunshine. Be wary though that some bitches become the type to actively seek out dogs to mate with so any confinement has to be strong, hide anything that could hurt her or be chewed form anxiety. If you would like to breed her remember: All hip scores, genetic tests should pass with flying colors The bitch should be at least 2 years old She should be obedient and have a good personality> not show any fear, aggression etc The dog should also comply with these standards and be complementary to your bitches line. Talk to her breeder about maybe going back to them to do the mating and for them to help you with the process. Take care!

Hey Angelo Its just patience for your new girl til she gets used to it. If you start slowly and let her know that being in the pen does not mean abandonment it will be easier. Feed her meals in there, even shut the door and play with her in the pen then the both of you leave it. If she sees that being in there is not the be all and end all then she'll come round. Yes they can be drama queens! Mayvbe get the neighbours a bottle of wine as a sorry gift and pop round to explain your predicament. Mutual understanding can go a long way. Have you had other hunting breeds before or is this your first of the gun breed? Hopefully she'll be a good dog for your needs! I have hunters in the family and if you're a good shot with well trained dogs I see nothing wrong with it. P.S. if you have a few spare ducks or rabbits chuck em my way will you nothing like fresh game for tea.

come on no dobe photos or I'll be forced to increase my family by 1 ... well I suppose the non human head count is 19 I may as well round it up to 20 hehehehe There are different levels of anxiety, drive and excitement in a dog and they all produce differences. She could be breaking through to another level of excitement at the moment since you are training to increase her drive towards that toy. If you are making the toy the reward for her drive you will find her body language change every time she sees it. I have heard of a GSD so focused on a ratty old tennis ball it broke through a door and nearly pulled a fridge onto itself to get at it. If you are really worried get her checked at the vet for any abnormalities but I would put it down to excitement. boooooootiful dobey I think I may need to pinch her for a ... few ... year ... cough

Sqeaky toys are good, also treat balls that the pup has to roll to get the food out of. Maybe the cat versions would be a better size for a pom. They're smart little cookies so one treat under a container is a piece of cake! Maybe give little to no breakfast and let the treat ball keep it amused for a while. Or a chicken wing for breakfast to keep it chewing for a while, it will have a sleep after so much effort! At this stage its best to limit the pup to some areas of the house when unsupervised to make sure it doesnt chew through electrical cords or choke on something it chews on.

ahhhh attention seeking. Fun isnt it Its hard but do not make any contact with the dog AT ALL while he is doing this. No food, comment, or even going near the door. No animal will bash itself for no reason so if he sees he gets nothing for this action he will stop. Dogs are weird creatures, even something like being told off is attention hence a reward. Yes backwards I know but thats how they see it. It may be hard at first but if you hold off every time he does it he will improve quickly. If any of you are tempted to even yell out NO or make some sort of contact its 3 steps backwards. Conversely trying to stop this behaviour with loud noises/soaking with the hose or other methods can terrorise the pup for other things. I know its annoying but sometimes you have to do a bit of tough love. Wont hurt the puppy in any way. Plus labs being so food orientated if he knows that being a quiet, good boy means food he'll learn even faster! Give him a couple of minutes after he settles down, go outside but say nothing. He should be sitting for his bowl by this stage. Make sure he sits, leaves the food until you praise him for being good then he eats. If you have a toddler in the house its safer if the pup learnsself control at an early age too. My two learned to eat on command early for safety reasons more then anything else. Its never too early to teach a puppy basic obedience, so a little more of this may control silly things like this from popping up again. Remember with puppies, be consistant and persistant. Back and white is the key to success! Plus a LOT of patience on your behalf

Its an anxiety thing ... the dog is so excited its drooling! Dont worry too much I have a Malinois that has two lines of drool hanging off her when she sits and has to wait for her rewards or if she's REALLY excited she's covered in foam like a mad thing. She's been checked for abnormalities by the vet and I've asked trainers but its seems to be excitement brings it on. Fear and aggression, look at the body language. If the dog is sitting, pacing its front feet a little with its ears pricked foreward and eyes shining while it drools it wants the toy. If it was fearful its posture would be hunched or ears back, avoiding direct eye contact. Aggression would not usually be just sitting there drooling but other signals like growling, standing up etc. Just means all that encouragement is working! Keep up the good work (and the tissues )

At the risk of repeating myself: 1) this pup is too young. You pushing him will do nothing but make him a nervous wreck that will become nervous and withdrawn and then you've wasted a potentially great animal 2) You train this dog to be dominant without the right help you will be bitten or attacked yourself. Its a fine art to direct the real aggression that you want and not something you should do yourself. The Schutzhund clubs WONT help you because you show yourself to be irresponsible. Go through them and your dog will be trained to be confident. THAT is the key to protection not being able to bite. 3) If you decide to train this dog to attack in a cruel manner by taunting or beating him you should give him up now and not own a dog. Its a life, not a friggn ego trip to own a dog that bites. 4) If your dog bites someone you will face criminal charges. You trained it to bite, you knowingly owned and encouraged a dog to be vicious you will face charges. Good luck with jobs or anything else that will require a police check. An adult dog out of control can not only maim but kill, even a child. Theres an easy recipe for having a dog that will protect you: Good genetics Intelligence Courage Confidence A strong bond and relationship between owner and dog I have a dog that has done some Shutzhund and she is a great guard dog. She will sit quietly in the loungroom with guests, let kids hug her and kiss her face but has shown she will protect me. Most of it was from her breeding and the fact we share such a strong bond.

chilli sauce. The hot (not too hot or Sweet chilli) stuff and smear it on the legs, try the asian sections at supermarkets. Citronella may eat the finish on the legs so test it first. Plus it can be really pongy in the warm weather. Insanely hot chilli was the only thing that stopped my Malinois. Tried just medium and she still ate it the dumb bum. Keep a big bowl of water handy though

I used the Giant breed puppy with my Dogue. Great stuff but I wouldnt feed him exclusively on it. I soaked it, mixed it with chicken necks and then the other meal was chicken necks w/ cooked veges and rice. It was great for his coat and fixed his flat feet right up. Cant complain but the price is not something I'd sustain a 45kg dogue on

you have a high drive dog and needs a lot of stimulation. I know how you feel I have a Malinois. Either Crate train or build a large concrete enclosed run for the dog when it cant be supervised. Make sure you have lots of toys like Kongs and a company called Aussie Dog Toys makes indestructable toys for strong dogs. At 4 months your puppy should not really be doing a sleeve yet as its teeth are not ready and probably teething is making it hesitant to bite as its gums are tender. Play with rolled up towls etc and get him to chase them. Make sure he is not tethered. Run and call the dog to get the towl, flap it around etc when he grabs it, stop and praise him. DO NOT PULL or if it causes pain he wont want to bite. Shutzhund takes time do not rush your dog or you will cause him to shy more. Just stand still and let him tug as much as he wants. You can teach him to OUT at this stage as well if you like, some dont want to teach it till later but I know Ring and KNVP teach out early as well. Try these articles before you continue too much furthur: http://www.leerburg.com/articles.htm#workpup http://www.leerburg.com/articles.htm#sch http://www.leerburg.com/philosophy.htm Remember pups develop differently. Your dog is a BABY. You wouldnt expect a toddler to ride a bike so dont expect a puppy to be able to start full on shutzhund. My Mal bitch was a late bloomer and you need to build confidence or your dog will be more reluctant to work for you. There is no rule that says schuthund dogs must be puppies to start, I have seen 2yo GSDs start and do quite well. If you need any more help PM me and me or some of my contacts can give you a hand, J

and to add a few more probing questions: what do you mean by not biting properly? Front bite or hesitation? How old is your dog What training has it had so far (obedience or otherwise) and at what stage is your dog at? Has it been chastised for this sort of behaviour before?

remember people, you have paid your money and invested your time to do the right thing by your dogs. If other people are being irresponsable then you have every right for you and your dog to say something. If you let people get away with stupid behaviour then the only ones to suffer will be you

Cactus I saw that method when I visited a Dog Obedience Club. It was a complete disaster, they taught to keep a completely slack lead and then when the poor dog didnt do something right yank the poor bugger off its feet. It was disgusting and cruel. There was also some retaliation from dominant dogs against their owners which the trainers told them to 'yank harder you're not doing it right'. A lead is an extension of your arm, and slackness for an untrained dog means no guidence. It was horrible to punish these dogs for doing something they thought was right when no one showed them what to do.

I woudlnt worry too much about the stray cats. There are virtually no diseases that are passed cat-dog and as before, if you worm your pup you're alright Drawback to papertraining ... leave papers on the ground in the house and puppy brain says 'I pee here now'. Plus yes it isnt very absorbant and dogs not liking to stand in their own wee will go off it quickly. If you know the puppy needs to go then wait, they cant hang on forever! Maybe try using some of that cat litter made from recycled newspaper in a shallow litterbox if you dont like the pup going outside. It smells like paper and soaks up the liquid part well. Keep the dog away from the carpet until you have seen it go to the toilet, give it heaps of praise when it finishes and then bring it in. Make it clear that toilet is here, play area is here.

Stan there is a big misconception that the use of the chain is to actually choke the dog. Many people here will call it a 'check' chain, not a choker. The point is to give a correction. The slight 'snap' action I give my dog when she misbehaves or pulls lets her know she is not doing the right thing. For her sound and small action of collar movement is the correction. Both my dogs get really excited and sit down with their heads out to have their collars put on when they hear a check chain rattle from a mile away! Cant be that bad now can it? I have a dog that will choke herself if I put a normal flat leather/nylon collar on her as this is how her breed is. Its safer and easier for me to use the chain on her. If the laws were different I would probably use a prong. Pulling the chain till the dog chokes can break the voicebox or the small bones in the dogs throat. There have also been reports where people have yanked so hard that the dogs vessels have ruptured. Pulling that hard is completely couterproductive and cruel to a dog. The point of all training is CORRECTION and never hardcore physical punishment which produces weak and unstable animals. A check chain should NEVER be used for a chained up dog EVER. It was never created as a 'collar' in the traditional sense of the word but as a training device, like a Halti, prong, or harness. Something to be used in controlled training sessions. Yes they can cause harm but only because the owner/trainer has not used it correctly. Then again this goes with everything not just check chains, its the persons ignorance and stupidity that causes the problems not the equiptment.

I believe Bark Busters is a franchise therefore not really guarenteed to give you a professional with the right experience. I would stay away from it just because they would not be good for your problem which would work on several levels. Contact GSDA WA and ask about Schutzhund trainers the presidents of WA shutzhund clubs are members) or people who deal with aggressive animals, they will be your best choice

From the sounds of it she's not very well obedience trained either. Call around for a dog trainer that will work with you one on one before you go into a group situation. MAKE SURE THEY ARE QUALIFIED/EXPERIENCED WITH DANGEROUS DOGS. There should be someone here who can give you a referral to someone good ;) Also, start reading THIS The articles are written by a dog trainer/breeder that deals with police dogs/aggressive dogs. When you read some of the articles have a good think about how she behaves in general. Dont immediately think 'oh she doesnt do that' maybe she does and you dont notice some of her behaviours/warning signs. The key to this is consistancy and education. Remember also you have to follow advice to the letter and stay at it! Things like this are not a quick fix, they will take time. It it not really something to be fixed just over a forum but we're all glad to help you any way we can All hope is not lost you just have to gain control back over the dog. It sounds like she's a bit spoilt and just needs to be taken down a peg or two. I would also invest in a muzzle for when you take her out in public if you cant trust her to prevent accidents.

well I'm debating wether to go now her highness has started the rather messy part of being in season. This one snuck up on me, must be because of the new dog. Dont worry, she's in a secure run and dopey still thinks that you can mate the head and get results Maybe I should just bring Skoot for a hello and meet other dogs but Mina would probably get upset if I left her alone in the cage all day while boof head got an outing. May have to wait for Brighton Darn you dogs

I'm still in woot woot Have chairs Have dogs going umbrella shopping saturday :rolleyes: Oh and some dog stakes too ... otherwise Skooter is going to decide to take himself for a walk around all the other dogs he can terrorise hehehe Cant wait!

this will probably sound silly but ... do you have a reversing beep on your ute? This could help. If you teach him to drop everytime he hears the reversing beep it would save you a heap of effort and yelling from the cab :D Agitation harness? I assume you're doing protection sport with him? Start with it in the yard, rig the beeper on a button on/off. Start the beeper and get him to drop, feed him as he stays down. When you off the beep tell him to sit and more food (or toy reward if you are doing it that way) Keep this up, he'll eventually get the idea that beep means lay down and stay down. Theyre clever though can be a little stubborn so he'll get it. I dont think the dog actually realises the major difference between foreward and reverse, just that the car is either moving or not. The beep would maybe help him learn?!