Nekhbet

Corine your dog continues because she wins every time. Unless you are really going to thump the dog what do you think smacking will achieve? A half assed tap is attention for her, and builds the dogs tolerance to that as a correction. Plus dogs dont speak english ... I tell people to imagine if they suddenly moved to a foreign country and had someone else tell them what to do. And when you did what you thought was right they smacked you on the bum She has learned that if she gets loud she gets what she wants. If she gets louder I assume you go out there and eventually shoosh or something. Dog wins again. It doesnt register because you are being too lenient. If she goes bananas teather her to a 2 foot tether where you can see her and let her sit there and think about it. Let her woof herself hoarse but no one is going to even look at her until she shuts up. If it takes 3 days, well she stays hungry for that long. Both of mine stay at the entrance to the kitchen and know to sit there because their quiet behaviour means I throw them a treat occasionally. So they happily sit there for a couple of hours waiting for some meat offcuts or biscuits. Same with your girl - when she settles throw her a treat and praise her. Praise everything good she does as soon as she does it! Even if its just a pat and a 'good girl!" you are reinforcing to her which behaviours are acceptable.

I found some info ... its called Flank Sucking Syndrome and the actual flank sucking is pretty much limited to Dobes. Once again some lines have it prevalent and it IS passed on down the generations in varying degrees (some dogs self mutilate) apparently these dogs are VERY friendly, people loving dogs. Unfortunately they form strong attachments to people that heighten their anxiety especially when around those people. Some triggers are: early removal from the mother rescue or being rehomed (removal from the attachment figuire) dogs with owners that have not given them sufficient attention sounds like anxiety gets him sucking. Its the dogs method of coping with heightened emotions so while to you he is sitting happily on the chair his brain says 'OMG OMG MUMS THERE HOW COOL OH HOW I LOVE THIS AND WOW I LOVE HER SO MUCH AND I CAN SEE HER" etc etc and gets himself excited so comforts himself. Same with the training. Get in touch with some breeders who have more contact with this - you dont want drive training to push him further and further into this habit. He is a high drive, high anxiety animal. Maybe some medication would take that clingy edge he has.

yup teenagers. And my best methods are hitting him right back with what he dishes out ... ignore him deprive him of good stuff if he's being a poo make him work harder. If you say 'go to your matt' and he walks off grab him and put him outside for a while. No walking up to him, as soon as he disobeys outside for 15 minutes. No asking, no second chances. He knows the command so you know he's just being difficult. When he comes inside if he disobeys again then straight outside and double the punishment. Link a few more things to food. If my mastiff really plays up or cracks the crankies he misses a meal until he starts listening. I dont have the time for a 55kg adolescent tantrum so he learned QUICK! If he will not recall keep him on a longline.

With a cross breed you have no hope. But do the old hand test ... run your hands along the dog and give it a good feel up check how the fat is going, how the muscle is developing. Just seeing the ribs too is not too big an issue, especially at the young age. But if they are prominent, and you start seeing spine/hips/pelvis the dog is starving. Her weight at the moment looks good. This pup could develop more on the boxer or on the bullmastiff side. Who knows. But either way follow like you would a bullmastiff because that will not harm the pup at all, it will at least be in the large category. And I would continue on feeding the dog 2 meals a day even into its adult life to minimise the risks of bloat.

Euk puppy is good enough if thats all you can get your hands on. My bitch was allergic to it but then again 99% of dry foods go straight through her. I wouldnt ever feed ANY type of can, that stuff is evil. You can start with maybe some roast chicken or boiled chicken meat NO COOKED BONES EVER!!! Get the pup used to it and then try a half teaspoon of raw human grade low fat chicken/turkey mince when the stools look better. This pup is going to need gradual changes or you are going to constantly have bouts of diarhea. Maybe even some boiled mashed up veges mixed in with the kibble, or make some stock and pour it over to warm the dry.

I learned at Uni that flank sucking was a genetic condition passed on from an imported sire a couple of decades back. Some dogs inherited this OCD so badly it was self mutilation to the point of going into the muscle tissue. Also because he is a working quality dog, his drive is extreme. The chattering of the teeth shows anxiety - and probably mostly genetic but encouraged into adulthood by the previous owners. Is he from working lines? As for the drive ... YOU GO GIRL!!! You'll make a schutzy out of him yet!I wanna see that bugger track

Because you dont know how the pup will turn out err on the side of caution. Boys can take a lot after their fathers too. Mastiffs and other sold breeds NEED to be on the thin side. A lot of people told me I was starving my dog when I first got him because you could just see his ribs. These breeds are meant to be muscular NOT tubby, this leads to joint problems and pano (pains in the joints from growing) a heavy dog is a lame dog. If he's a bit ribby thats fine, as long as the nutrition is there. Do not overdo the calcium or the protein. Two things that people think should be liberally added to a dogs diet but its very very important you dont just throw it in and hope for the best. Too much calcium can cause fur, joint and growth problems. Excessive protein can make the pup grow too fast and cause joint problems. Mastiffs are not adult till 3 years of age - dont be in a hurry to bulk up or grow the dog. Limit exercise - no rough play, jumping onto/off things, running like a lunatic. Easy way to cause joint and growth plate damage which is VERY expensive to fix ir you can at all. Just short walks, slow steady pace. Some people may not agree but I beleive that mastiffs and other bullys need to remain intact for a little longer then other breeds. I still have my boy entire (he is not going to be bred from at all but worked) and he is growing to be a really masculine looking dog. Solid, broad head, square set and courage. Its up to you but I would leave desexing till at least 9-12 months for the sake of bone and body development. But if you cant handle a pushy, stubborn dog that will challenge you through puberty then desex early. Just as an example - I feed my mastiff Eagle Pack Adult, chicken necks/wings, lamb flaps, boiled veges and rice. The rice fills him up without too many extra calories.

Remember - dogs dont speak english. If I walked up to you and said "pusti ga na miru" and clapped my hands at you, you'd think I'm a complete loony! Just because you make a noise doesnt mean your dog understands. Old method of dog training - make a fuss when the dog does something bad and the dog ends up avoiding, cowering or doing it in secret. You have to SHOW the dog. Dont just spray or clap, give the dog a positive alternative. Chewing cords is wrong BUT chewing toys is OK. Jumping on furniture is wrong BUT hopping on your bed is OK. Just say a stern NO, pick up the pup and put him in the sin bin, or move him away and give him his alternative. They learn much faster and respond better when there is a physical reward at the end of the lesson.

Yup typical puppy. A few tips though ... cycle the toys. A pup looks not only for a chew but for something different. Dont plonk all the toys in the middle of the floor, have a new toy for each day. Rub some Kabana onto them too so its interesting for her. Start giving things like lamb shanks, lamb flaps, something with some meat on it that she can sink her teeth into. And straight out of the fridge it will cool her gums too. As for her Kong, puppy ones are quite small she may need a larger one. And something like mince, peanut butter, cheese etc non solid items that take more work may be the go. During the day fill it with stock and freeze it so she again cools her irritated gums. Smear items with tabasco/chilli sauce but just a touch. Especially furniture legs and electrical cords, it wont stain and dries for a long lasting effect. Clear all things away and as soon as she picks up something that is not hers, take it away and replace it with an OK item. Teach her that set items are OK and the rest is a no go. Dont let her wander round the house. I know its hard with kids because they leave things around but if you limit her to the area where you are its easier to keep an eye on her.

is he having issues with the outside world or just having a leash on? I once had a german shepherd puppy that threw an absolute screaming fit whenever you clipped a leash on him ... silly boy he was. Firstly NEVER TUG!!!! Tugging just builds up his resistance and shows hiim that leashes mean unpleasant things. The harder you try the more he goes 'no no no' and the more to undo later. Now start in the living room or backyard. Clip a short leash to his collar and play a little. Encourage him to follow you, call his name and praise him when he runs to you. When he comes to you, grab the little lead but DONT TUG IT and reward him with food and pats. When he sees following is fun then grab the longer one and try the same thing again. Let him explore and understand that the leash is not a punishment but simply a boundry. Let him play on the lead, if he gets to the end of its length call him back excitedly so he understands that the little tug he feels means come back and not something horrible. Once again heaps of treats and praise. This way you teach him to be confident but respect the leash as well. Some people go a little too far and the dog becomes a tugger hehehe.

blocking him off is a good thing. For his own protection too, especially if he gets to a plugged in power cord. I think you answered your own question ... he does see you as someone who is not to be listened to all the time. If you say NO and he continues take it off him and put him in a sin bin. Lock him somewhere safe but toy free and leave him there to think about it, 15 minutes or until he is quiet. Then let him out and have a little play with him to show him you have no hard feelings. You write 'he is pulling the braodband" why do you let him continue? You show him its wrong, if he tries again - out and in the sin bin. With young dogs you have to be BLACK AND WHITE in right/wrong. Dont give too many chances and nip things in the bud - if he starts sniffing and pawing at things correct him then, not when he's already had 5 minutes of investigation. As for the lead, when he acts up and rolls over, turn your back on him and completely ignore him. Dont say a word - just stare at the sky. Pretty soon he's going to realise that hey, i cna push mums buttons but it wont get a reaction and its not that much fun being stupid. Pulling the same. Stop, wait, put him into a sit. when he is good continue. If he pulls again then stop and repeat. DO NOT use a choker or yank him hard little dogs need patience and correction can damage his throat. Remember - dont ask your dog. Dont crouch down and go 'oooh poor baby its ok mummies here etc". You are the boss, and your dog expects you to be a leader. Asking is done by low level animals, telling is done by leaders. Not saying you have to be harsh and yell but be one step ahead and make him work for your attention. Reward the good, ignore the bad. P.S. try tobasco sauce or hot chilli on things he is not meant to touch. Davidsee - try skipping a meal when you know you are going out. Then just before you leave throw some lamb flaps/chicken necks/wings all over the backyard and let the dogs chew on those for a while. Conversely give them larger bones that take a while. A hungry dog is not going to turn around and chew up a plant when there is some lovely fresh food lying around. Remember you have a working breed that will keep itself amused A LOT. Try a treat ball too and a sandpit in the corner then bury some food in there.

Hehehehe the little buggers are smart aren't they! I would take the collars off both of them. Many times have dogs got their jaws caught IN the collars and major damage has or even death has occured. Neither or mine wear collars when running in teh yard.

adding some fish (or flaxseed oil) to the diet and keeping it as free from artificial colors, flavours and additives can help. The better quality the food the better the skin and coat. When the dog is hydrobathed use a formula that moisturises the skin. Also you can try some cool chamomile tea solution poured over the coat after the shampoo is rinsed off and leave that in, just towel dry the dog.

Really I dont know why some people are worried when an adolescent/adult dog does not start cocking its leg ... it then wants to stop at every tree and then goes onto 'marking' your furniture if you're not too vigilant! Count your blessings

Yeah you just have to wait it out. When I first got my bitch she only whined at about 6am on the first night when she woke up and panicked that the other 9 puppies were missing! She settled after a few minutes and I went out to see if she had hurt herself (she was really screaming) no other problems. Her brother ... screamed for a WEEK nearly non stop. The owner nearly sedated him the poor bugger was so attached to his litter mates. Different dogs take different amounts of time.

crate as in those metal collapsable crates with the lockable door. Teach the puppy this is its home at night and when mum isnt around. Much easier and safer. Search 'crate training' for the forums. As for the litter training, use paper based litters as they are bitter and not as edible as clay. Also, make sure you put the pup on the litter box after every activity (wake up, eaten, drunk water, playtime) and stay there until it goes. Praise it heaps, even give it a treat for going in the litter box. The under bed plastic storage containers are good because theyre a little deeper and larger then a small litter box. Also dogs dont like to mess where they sleep so dont keep it too close to the sleeping/eating area.

oOOOOooooooh too cute! OK well start toilet training straight away. It varies from dog to dog, some take a few days, some a few weeks! But if you are quick and make sure that there is little margin for error they get it pretty quickly. As for the house ... dont let the pup wander the house without you. It spells trouble really. Take all chemicals and chewable items out of reach (on the fridge, high cupboards or lockable ones) and make sure power cords are out of the way or unplugged. Smearing a little chilli on power cords can teach it a lesson before it gets electrocuted! Baby gates from K Mart are good, and get yourself a crate to crate train. If you are not home then the pup should be in a crate or a pen, but remember that pups cant hang on for long periods. DOnt expect a baby puppy to hang on for 3-4 hours and then tell it off for toileting. Litter box training is a good idea if the pup will spend a lot of time indoors or unsupervised. Continue with the breeders diet for at least a couple of weeks and then begin to slowly introduce new foods. Never make sudden switches or give new foods in large quantities unless you are ready for sloppy poo or vomits! BARF is good but again wean the pup off the breeders diet slowly. Good to teach the pup a routine and also about meal times. Now that its away from its littermates it can learn not to scoff food or be posessive over things to dont let any of that behaviour continue.

what breed are you getting?

put him in the laundry/crate with everything the puppy needs (make sure its warm and draft free) and leave it there until its quiet. Completely ignore it, including no telling it off. Then go spend time with it when it settles, if it whines again ... same treatment. Theyre just being sooky but if you play into their hands and cuddle them or let them in your lap constantly you will raise a real pain in the butt. Yes sometimes it can take DAYS but the tougher you are the faster they realise whining isnt worth it.

Dont forget giardia and other protozoa that could be causing problems. I think green is bile too. Also there is leaky gut syndrome.

they could all have allergies or sensitivities... or parasites. Get the stool checked out. Worm her, keep her on boiled chicken MEAT ONLY and plain rice. Her appetite will be a little low, maybe try some Nutragel or a puppy specific multivitamin liquid/paste/powder. Pigs ears are way too fatty for baby puppies especially one with a sensitive tummy. Cut out all artificial food and pork products. Frankly this dog sounds like a candidate for a raw diet.

if you buy good quality meat and treat it like you would your own food (refrigerate straight away, dont leave out on the bench, dont feed bad smelling meat) then there wont be a problem. Every dog we ever had got raw meat from puppyhood without a problem but we never fed dodgy food.

leave some chilli sauce on the plates that smell like gravy or something nice. He'll learn its not THAT great or cover them with a tea towel if you have to leave them. Yeah you chucked a wobbly. All humans will do it occasionally. The dog will come round, just hand feed him for a while and give him some preferential treatment to show you dont hate him. I agree with StaffnToller just keep up the obedience, stepping down is a good idea because no point in going on with a dog that wont listen. Puberty is great isnt it

Definately get onto a food with no artificial colors, flavours or additives. I have my dogs on Eagle Pack, its fabulous very worth the money. Also he may need some more natural oils, try some tinned tuna in water mixed in with a little well cooked rice. Fix the inside and the outside will improve

what food are you feeding him?