Nekhbet

Groups of people - yes. But you need it in a controlled manner where everyone understands how to behave around the pup. A housewarming or any type of gathering is potential to create a negative situation that can cause emotional problems or sometimes injuries.

I think the problem was you just waited for a problem to solve itself. And what makes you think its passive dominance? What other behaviours is she showing? What are her meal times and food like? Why is a dog you suspect to be dominating you allowed on the furniture? How often does she get to toilet? Are there any more undesirable behaviours going on? What do you do when you find a mess? From what i can see this dog has little respect for you and has not been taught proper toilet manners. If there is no medical reason, and I would get her over to a vet ASAP for a checkup, then suspect behavioural. But I need more info before giving you any tips

Some people are tailored to the low drive, pet dog market thats blossoming ... oh FiFi wont sit of Rexy poopy poo yaps at me when I feed it ... plenty of yuppies willing to pay good money to get touchy feely methods. I have alwyas been around large dogs. Like any young creature, humans included, a well rounded individual requires boundaries, discipline and rewards. Balancing them is the trick, not trying to work around your dogs. I would like to see her with a high prey drive or highly dominant animal.

i want to know that after the vet seeing the dog react so out of the ordinary he allowed him to go home without further tests. There is drugs that can reverse the anesthetic, its not healthy to have an animal sedate for that long. Is his heartbeat and breathing ok? Some drugs can cause arrythmia and for a large breed that is not a good thing if its still in his system. Go poke the vet.

your puppy shoudnt be around a housewarming. I wouldnt it would be a bit much for a puppy. Put her away in a quiet room, give her everything she needs and leaver her there for the duration.

wolf he will grow into what his genetics decide but its the rate of growth. You dont want a soft frame packed with muscles or you have mobility problems. Even though he is not a giant breed he is a stocky type with larger then average muscle size in comparison to his overall size. The trick is to let the bones develop without having extra pressure put on them. Be it a giant breed or a solid bully.

listen to the breeder before the vet - they know their dogs and their lines. Cut the protein if the breeder reccomends it. I had mine on Eagle Pack giant breed and it did him a world of good. My DDB is VERY lean at the moment, might need some fattening actually, but he doesnt run out of puff and he moves more lightly then a dog of his build usually does. Makes his life and breathing much easier. this is Skoota as he is now, about 21 months old. He still has muscle and bulk but I have stripped him of his puppy fat. He eats twice a day, Eagle Pack, rice n veges, fresh chicken (only ever necks, wings, maryland, drumsticks etc) and lamb off cuts/flaps but they have to include edible bones. I never give him mince, pre-made dog food or table scraps. Keeping his weight down has helped his back heal too.

OMG I am in absolute shock. What kind of weak arse moronic trainer would give up on an animal. Thats STUPIDITY AND CRUELTY at its best right there people. I'm a shite trainer so i'll murder the dog. Give the green dream to her and lets not perpetuate her idiocy. I am so mad at hearing this. Yup prongs should be legalised BUT for the right people by the right people. no selling in pet stores or online to anyone who just wants one. Proper supervision to make sure the small minority of numbnuts out there dont ruin it for the rest of us.

definately try it. Surgery on a growing pup is not a good thing, I have heard bad things. If they cant find the problem no use going in and causing one. Get a well reccomended one, take your xrays with you as well and the medical history. It takes time but it does work.

the risk of infection at the surgery site is slim to none. If you let the dog run through the dirt or continuously lick it its going to have issues. THe dog gets an antibiotic shot and then tablets as well if it needs them. Cut your losses and chop him now while he's young.

my DDB had a bad limp which we couldnt find what was wrong. He wasnt overweight or over exercised. I took him to a chiropractor and he worked out that SKoota had put out a disc in his back which made him throw his hips to one side. This put uneven pressure on his front so he limped BAD. Couldnt walk more then 10 minutes before being in pain and huffing and puffing. About 7 chiro sessions and stretching exercises every day he's right as rain now. Surgery can do more harm then good, scar tissue is a one way street. Look at alternatives before going straight into the last resort.

Different dogs require different methods. Try training a malinois in the peak of drive with some food or a flat collar. These dogs have been selecitively bred with a high tolerance and security training requires the dog to be stimulated by pulling. So what do I do here? I have heard these plastic prongs are painful and also have broken off whilst on the dog. They're complete crap. get a stainless one if you need one as it does what the collar is meant to do - create an aversion through the pinch method using light pressure, less then a flat collar. I find nothing wrong with pinch collars and ecollars BUT they need to be used by people who understand them only. They should be under professional use or supervision. They are equiptment made to get results for higher tolerance dogs, not to be a quick fix when some people are too lazy to put in real work (and I'm not taking a dig at anyone just making a statement) I agree that dog training requires rewarding the good behaviours over constant 'no' or 'bad dog'. They dont speak english so we are there to show them what to do. But when one owns dogs that are above the average sometimes purely positive, clicker, flat etc cant be the only options.

Candice I would be careful with this method as it can frighten some pups. If the pup is struggling and you let go he runs the risk of falling or hurting himself. Conversely the pup can learn to nip you when it starts feeling uncomfortable. You are still engaging the pup but in a negative way. I would never have strangers do this to your dog, especially pups, as they can associate strangers with feeling stress or pain.

your pup should know not to jump - I assume he has other respect issues as well if he's still doing this. When you ignore, put your knee up when he jumps so he cant ge close to you. Dont kick the dog, but enough that he is bumped back. Dont look at him but enough times and they get the fact that falling over isnt fun. As for guests, puppy doesnt even get to meet them until you have better control. At the moment he's not paying attention to you so you are teaching him to ignore you and treat guests as a reason to go nutty! Put him away with a meaty bone, maybe when he's quiet walk him in to meet people ON LEAD but if he gets excited walk him straight out of the room, make him sit and settle then try again. If after 3 times he keeps being silly put him outside again. He's a labrador and as such is by nature a very exhuberant breed. They need a lot of consistant obedience and rule laying so you have better control. Treats go down really well cos they're piggies so make sure you always REWARD THE GOOD behaviour! As soon as he does something good, especially without having to be told, reward it with heaps of quiet pats and 'good dog'. Reinforce what the right things are.

dogs that are used to ruling the roost will push you - but you have to persevere. The two biggest rules in dog training are Consistant and Persistant. You keep to a set set of rules and NEVER break them. None of the whole 'oh sometimes its ok'. Things are either OK or they are not. If you show incosistancy the dogs dont respect you or what you say. Sounds like Oscar is taking on a leadership role. If you stop being the top dog, the dog will do it for you. Show leadership and he will settle into the comfort that you make the decisions for him, and you will notice his behaviour improve.

Vet has you trained too ... I wouldnt touch Science Diet with a 10 foot pole either. I would swap to something like Eagle Pack giant breed puppy its fabulous stuff. I found mine go for it when I pour some warm water on it and soften it it smells so much nicer. Some dogs just cant thrive on dry food alone, mine are like that. The pup should be on a couple of meals a day so there is nothing wrong with say, one meal kibble and the other some cooked veges and protein source (mince, necks, scraps etc). Then a chicken frame, lamb flap or a few chicken necks in between time for exercise. As for meat quality, pfft. As long as its fresh I wouldnt be going too upper class for the dog, I dont even get that stuff! Try some fish sauce splashed on top. But with all meals, 15 minutes to eat or it goes away till teh next meal time. No healthy dog will starve to death so set the food and meal times, then stick to it if she likes it or not. I use a Vets All Natural canine nutritional powder for my home made food. Its not too high in calcium and contains natural ingredients. Remember giant pups need to grow slowly and stay slim so they dont get growing pains or structural problems later on. These dogs are not always massive eaters either. Make the meals fairly small so she HAS to eat something and will be hungry for the next. If she has done nothing all day dont expect her to want to wolf down a massive meal. Balance is also the key to making a good eater. PM Sagittarius, she has St Bernards (OOOH CUTE PHOTO!!)

dont leave kids to tell a pup what to do, and dont let kids and pups just play together. If the pup pulls the toddlers socks off were just standing there watching it? As soon as the pup went for the sock I would have taken it away and given it a toy to play with. Your pup thinks your kids can play like other puppies which nip each other, roll about etc. Pups dont understand so YOU as teh leader of the pack have to show the pup. When they play you be on the floor playing with them so as soon as your pup shows nippy behaviour you give it a time out. Also dont let the kids get too excitable with the pup or it will associate the kids with rough play.

If you are not sure its better to be shown how to do it. Plus the vet can make sure everything is OK around the wound. Your dog has been damaging the stitches, in this instance I would give a big NO. It needs looking at and may need to stay in longer if there is extra damage. If in doubt - its better to pay a small vet fee now then a bigger one later.

I wash my carpets regularly with the Britex machine from Woolworths - hot water and I have not found their chemicals to be smelly or irritating if you use max what it says on the containers. Plus you can add a couple of drops of essential oils to the water tank. Remove pet bedding, dont let it sit in the one place, stick it out in the sun and wash it regularly. Vaccuum it when you do the carpets. Wash curtains regularly as they absorb smells too. Air out the house on stiller days as really windy days will bring in a lot of dust and dirt. An oil burner is always nice, if you use good oil it wont irritate the other animals and you can regulate the amount. I have used that foam but it makes my lizards sneeze.

tether the dog to you unless you can contain it, or wait outside for half an hour until she does poos as well. Your choice. you are making life harder for yourself by not considering crate training. It works for so many people and its never too late.

HD in dogs with tested parents would be slim to none. I would expect a 10 week old pup with HD to be from mechanical injury. Shakaiba you say the puppy came straight to the owners with this injury - why was the puppy accepted if it showed illness? Why was the pup not taken to more vets for a second opinion? Was there an x-ray done to find out why the pup couldnt walk properly? 5 days of quarintine with breeder or vet what exactly happened - if it was at the vet clinic on drips and medication its poor little body would have been knocked about severely and the onus is on the owners to find out about aftercare or go straight to a vet they trust. If it had severe enough stomach pain it could have had difficulty walking due to pain. They have enough trouble wobbling around on those big feet of theirs at that age that a big pain would cause them problems. Its not on a breeder to carry a new owner ever second of the day. If the breeder had other sick dogs they had their own set of problems and vet bills. This breeder gave them a refund and took the pup back. I dont see what more you want the breeder to do, a shoddy breeder would not have bothered with vets and giving a full refund. This breeder now has another mouth to feed and another set of vet bills.

Dont stress too much about it. If no one else is complaining and the ranger has taken statements from the other neighbours that they dont even realise your dogs are an issue then the council cant do much about it. Jeezus you even restrict your dogs access on preperty YOU PAY FOR. Dogs are allowed the odd bark, it wouldnt be fair to silence a group of dogs 24/7. Birds chirp, cats meow, dogs bark. Tell the neighbour to stick it up his a$$ frankly and from now on there will be cat traps set to take care of the problems causing noise issues for your dogs. If they love the cat they'll take care of it, if not at least the poor bugger will be better off. And debarking ... you are right too risky. If its the occasional bark then I would never put an animal through such an operation, and there are other options like no-bark ecollars to try. It is VERY risky IMO as you are destroying such a sensitive area.

I have never waited for a pup to grow out of these phases. If you allow the behaviour and wait for it to go away then it remains and sometimes multiplies. Then we have people with 18 month old shockers going 'oh it still does x, y, z" wave a rag in its face and get the dog to focus on a proper fun thing, praise it for playing with the rag/toy instead. Stand stock still when the pup is tugging and ignore it completely. Dont show that clothing means attention, it will give up. Conversely grab some bitter spray/chilli and wipe it on an old pair of pants and let the pup grab on. If the pup goes for a rebite then spray and say NO. A little discipline never hurt any pup.

If you have everyone ignore her she's going to try and work for everyones attention. If you are a leader, food provider and trainer then you shouldnt deprive your dog of other human attention, she wont understand why. Both my dogs are allowed to be touched and played with by other people but as soon as I am around they run back to me. Why are you trying to build prey drive? You have BC and they ooze it. You should be trying to use it to your advantage. At this age they go through hormonal changes. Yes they will 'talk back, ignore you, push your buttons big time! Back off with the training and just enjoy the pup. Can you tell me exactly how you are training your dog? You seem to be letting her get away with everything and now she's telling you to rack off. If she cant recall put her on a lead and keep her on it. No exceptions. You seem to need more consistancy in your training too, I dont think you understood TOT properly. Its not about teaching your dog a trick to sit before food its your dog understanding you control everything in its life as its pack leader. Also why is your untrained pup allowed to go around a party? Why do you let her scavange? Your dog creates self rewarding behaviours and then you spring her and she cracks it. All you teach her is not to get caught, not to stop the behaviour. Your dog, if she gets excited, should be in a pen or crate away from guests and visitors until she is trained. If you cant control her behaviour its safer to give her quiet space of her own. PM me if you need help with her more.

You need some good quality diet for this pup. Grab a bad of Royal Canin puppy food (see if you can grab a sample pack) that stuff always smells yummy. Soften it with some warm water and let the pup try it. He could be shy to eat around you if you have been force feeding him so just leave the room and completely ignore the dog every time food is around. Please this is important. If that doesnt work, you could cook up some plain rice and chicken (cook the bones in the water but dont feed them to the puppy, flake the meat off for him) and make it into a warm soup. Add a tiny amount of salt and the bones release calcium and minerals, plus some fat and flavour so it shoudl smell pretty yum! Once again leave the bowl where the pup can find it and leave the room. Come back in half an hour to see if he;s at least drank up the soup. Dont panic or fuss around him too much or you can make him shy around food. I know its worrying, I have had an anorexic dog once and i was in tears for days that she wouldnt eat. But stick to it, heaps or love and patience you will be right. The mince and illness could have really upset his stomache so I wouldnt be giving him anything very fatty or rich.