Nekhbet

there is no point to this operation. Either leave her entire or desex her. Hormones are made in other parts of the body as well so she will not be missing out on anything. You are pretty much creating a bitch that will carry on like an entire bitch but not get pregnant. Dogs will carry on around her like she is in season and she will try and mate with them. If you are not going to breed desex. Dont attach human thoughts about this procedure to your dog, she wont care.

sorry if I came across a bit short. I didnt read what you wrote before the edit, but dont worry about being rude to me ;) All I mean is that things like sprays and the such dont cure the problem. Deterring the pup doesnt neccesarily show leadership. I stopped my pups and showed them that I found that unacceptable and not to do it. You are seeing that the pup is reacting to you saying 'uhuh'. That is YOU doing all the good leadership work, and the pup is respecting you. No money or spray can do that. Great work!

There is a great chiro in Werribee, near the vet hospital Dr Potter Potter Chiropractic Centre 320 Heaths Rd Hoppers Crossing 3029 (03) 9974 1991 My DDB was very lame, and turned out he had injured his back which prevented him using his hind legs properly. With Chiro and stretching exercises he is now doing great! He's an animal and human chiro, very understanding and positive. If you need someone to drive you and help transport Gordie around my station wagon is at your disposal as I leave in Hoppers Crossing Hugs and well wishes!!!!

Exactly kamuzz. like I said when my belgian went through her fear periods it was up to me to guide her and shape how she would come out the other side. If I didnt make a fuss, then she shouldnt. Also handy for a working animal, if you show nerves or fear then she has to pick up on that and react accordingly. If i dont make a fuss of a person or situation then I dont want her taking it upon herself to launch at someone for no good reason. Getting a young dog to take cues from your behaviour is very important in the dog/handler relationship and especially for working animals.

cos she's in victoria and we are not allowed to use them I dont think this dog needs a harder correction, she just needs a little more tough love. She's not a malinois

you are a grown human being. If you leave your hands there they will get munched. As soon as she nips stand up and walk off. If mine got really uncontrollabel I grabbed her by the scruff, gave her a gruff NO and put her in time out until she settled. Save your money, work on leadership not gimmicks.

I wouldnt be giving him 2 cups of meat. Give him skinned chicken necks, or chicken frames instead and some cooked veges. The meat has fat and not much calcium in it. 45kg for a golden though sounds excessive. Can you feel his ribs at all? How is the covering along his spine?

Depends what causes the fear. If it is a habitual fear then over reaction from the owner reinfoces the behaviour. The dog can show fearful physical behaviour to get its own way but not neccesarily be truely scared: eg I saw a pomeranian once that would scream (and i mean like it was being tortured) if the owner brought it into situations it didnt like. Automatic reaction was to pick it up, cuddle and sooth it. THe dog didnt look geniunely scared to me but the owner thought it had all manner of mental problems. When distracted the dog could be brought closer to the stimulus that caused it previous tantrums. true blinding fear is an autamated response. Weak nerved or manic dogs I dont beleive in pushing the issue. Sometimes medication may be a solution as part of a lifestyle change for the dog as chacgin pack structure can be stressful enough. I have a working Malinois. We worked through her fears and fear periods with a lot of socialisation. She would shake and whine in new situations but I persisted by just sitting next to her and ignoring her and the whole situation. EG heavy traffic. I would sit with her near the noises and just stare into the distance. I ignored her whining and shaking, but when she showed interest and alertness I would calmly pat her and quietly praise her. She learned to take my physical cues to react to a situation - if I didnt make a big deal about she shouldnt either. Though in her training we use nervousness, stress etc. It can sometimes be that little bit that pushes her from prey to defence when her brain realises that this is no longer play time. You cant train a working security dog with no stress - real life situation the dog will find that prey doesnt deter the attacker and it baulks or runs off. The trick is to show leadership - that the dog looks to you 'mum I'm not sure! what do I do" and I'll give the command, she takes the bite and realises it releases her fear and makes the bad thing go away. I beleive that socialisation and desensitisation plays a big part, especially early on. A common mistake for some people is to allow a fearful dog to get away with a lot of things so they dont stress. Absense of leadership then confuses this dog further and there are more problems are new behaviours to then deal with. As for a dog with stranger issues I dont beleive in getting the stranger to offer food straight off the bat. I would rather let the dog have 1) and escape route (like and open door out of teh room) and the owner present. If the dog wants to approach then thats fine, but the stranger makes no attempt to look, touch or talk to the animal. This is good at assessing the dogs behaviour too. If it eyeballs the stranger, walks round but wont leave the room with the option there you have to wonder is it truely terrified? Is there enough curiosity in there for the owner to then harness to get the dog over that hurdle. Then progress to leaving food near the stranger and see if the dog has enough confidence to take it. Will it take it a meter away? Heaps of verbal praise then no more engaging the dog. Will it take it a foot away or will it pace nervously? If the dog walks into an open door room and attacks a stranger that has made no attempt to touch, talk or even look in the dogs direction then I dont class that as fear. Like you say though NaturallyWild all cases should be assessed on an individual basis, but I would always reccomend a full health check first and use of professional guidence during the dogs rehabilitation.

KK grab the bluetongue and take it down the road to release it and if it comes back well stupid lizard. Sorry but terriers are terriers and your little girl has some in her so they chase them. Its like asking my mastiff not to go chase the demented willy wagtail that teases him... not gonna happen in a hurry. As for the correction what does the rest of your body do? How is your voice? Rosie is a strong willed little dog and those that havnt met her dont realise what KK has at the end of the lead!! A lot of people are saying 'dont set your dog up for failure'. What not take your dog where it will make a mistake? Damn my Malinois wouldnt go anywhere. I want my dog to make mistakes when I am around because then I can show her its wrong. Dont lunge at skateboards, dont bark at kids in the park etc etc. You are your dogs leader. When people come to the front door frankly it should be none of Rosie's business, I think the 'its me or the dog' had the right idea. The owner didnt go to the door till the dog settled and then didnt get to meet the guests until it settled. If rosie carries on remove her, make her sit and focus then try introducing again. If she carries on and wont settle put her outside with no attention. Tough. Unfortunately she is still in the situation - around the guests - so she is still getting what she wants. Physical corrections dont work so deprive her of what she wants the most.

Too much too fast. Why are you so worried about it, its a baby puppy for cripes sake. Pups have small appetites as well so dont expect to keep cramming food into her or you will ruin it for yourself.

call the National Dog Trainers Federation or Australian Dog Training. They should be able to point you in the right direction.

do some work on the net. Read around because breed clubs will be able to give you info on what people should be testing for. To not test because you dont see it is irresponsible IMO because of course recessive conditions may not pop up until its too late. http://www.akc.org/breeds/bichon_frise/index.cfm http://www.bichonfrise.com.au/ http://www.bichon.org/ http://www.bichonfrise.org/clubs.html I cant vouch for the websites but if they are registered with their national canine council it should be a good start.

I have seen John Hillman at the Lort Smith. Only charged me $25 for a consult to check Skoots eye, very thorough, worked through the dogs fear as well. Cant see anyone else doing an eyeball scraping off a cranky mastiff

The only thing I can think of is that she had the prong right up under the dogs chin, constantly pulled and it smashed all the little voicebox bones that hold the dogs throat together. That is pretty unrepairable, could cause a collapsed eosophagus

Any joint damage needs total rest. DO NOT let him run around or play with outher dogs it needs to heal and it cant do that if he's active. My DDB had to be confined, yes he hated it, but it helped. What utter BS - they cant see anything after 2 x-rays but are so sure they need to open this poor dog up and mutilate him. Unless they see something rest him, chiro him, swim him. Get a second opinion definately sounds like theyre grasping for straws.

Depends on the dog Rubidoo some stay on to become handler trainers, some go on to be brood bitches/studs. A dog like these though I wouldnt rehome into a domestic cituation its downright dangerous. THey would be used to a structured military type kennel environment, no way would I put them near the public or kids. If they came down to the end of their working lives it would be kinder to PTS then leave a dog that is used to working so hard into an average home.

but how often would a dog like this be in use? These dogs are like the special forces themselves - high intensity, specialised and ready to go at any time. It takes a lot of training to get to this level, they wouldnt bother with all the time, money and effort if the dog was to last a few months. When an emergency arises you have one chance to get it right. Sometimes you have to sacrifice one thing to get another. A dog that baulks at a situation because it loses focus is a bigger liability and has more risk for injury. Mals are smart and hard, but at the same time they're not suicidal.

Our cat has it. He also has feline AIDS so the poor bugger really copped it. Yup we know when he has tucked into the dogs food because he vomits everywhere! He gets some EaglePack dog kibble, chicken necks, BBQ chicken (meat only) and boiled chicken meat which I sprinkle with vitamin powder. I also put him on kitty vitamin treats to keep up the goodies.

Billdog dont htink of it as boot camp my dogs are dogs, they eat from bowls, they sleep outside, but they're still my big booger babies. Its finding that happy balance and that goes dog by dog. Sit back, watch your dog for a while and understand her as a dog, dont try and humanise her actions. When you come to understand her from a canine perspective you will find life easier... gee that is rather zen for this hour of the morning isnt it ...

Jeff you're just a closet masochist ... bite me bite me if you come to Melbourne I'll let my DDB have a little munch on you if you like it so much I love a good bite. Its magic to see when a smaller dog like a Mal runs full pelt at a decoy and BANG. Incredible. Even more incredible is seeing a decoy get an atomic wedgie in a suite when a very over enthusiastic rottweiler went for an inner thigh bite ... Sas yours sound like mine ... 12 hr shift, 2 hrs travel time - we get home and the bitch crams a toy into my lap with an expectant look on her face... THEY DONT STOP!! Dont worry Golden Girl that was only PRETEND screaming and writhing by the decoy

When my malinois was little i did the toy swap as a distraction for out. Her reward was 'restart', going for the toy then getting it again. She developed a lovely OUT byt 6 months old - she would out and sit waiting for me. I would not start again until she was calm. Havnt had an issue in the dog snapping back for it. At the moment she is doing protection work, but she still outs and waits for the command... i love my baby boo hehehe Her only problem is her overexcitement and sometimes she just grabs before I let her or she has given me enough focus. Transferring her focus from the decoy to me and holding it there needs a lot more work. tmc a dog is a living creature not a machine. Even guns backfire. Shite happens, the dog is under pressure and sometimes grabs blindly under extreme stress. If the dog wanted to attack the handler he wouldnt have shaken it off so easily, and it would have gone for the face or upper body, not just the hand. Golden Girl these dogs are bred for this work. Malinois are made for this and if they couldnt do it they wouldnt, this is not something you can force a dog into they have to want to. Why do you think its so hard to pull them off, the dogs are having their extreme drive satisfied by getting the bite and holding. Remeber these are not pets, these are military level working animals bred and trained for a purpose.

That is not neccesarily handler aggression. Could just be the dog is in such a high drive state that it grabbed what was restraining it. Happens occasionally. If the dog was serious about aggressive behaviour that handler would have com off a lot worst. My Mal got me once, I had her by a flat collar, my ex played his drumkit and she went berzerk. Turned to grab me but I caught her in time to not get a full bite. Its a working dog - it happens. Sasjeep how old is your GSD? Are you getting nice full bites or you having bounce offs?

E collars are the more extreme end of training. They are for use ONLY with experienced professionals. Like any training tool they are NOT made to be left on the animal for long periods. I dont even let my dogs run round the backyard with a flat collar let alone something like this when I am not around for long periods. It is a tool that has the capacity to hurt the dog, then again so does a flea collar pulled to tight, or a check chain left on for weeks on end. Anyone who leaves a training tool on for days or weeks on end without checking the equipment or giving the dog a rest needs a kick up the ass for being cruel.

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Belgian Malinois and people ask me if they make good pets that is an incredible video I wish I had the facilities to own dogs of that calibre!

As for the paw thing my dog does that too. Most terriers I have known are little pocket rockets and thats just a thing they do. Unfortunately you have created a few problems - No doesnst mean no unless its stern. When the dog does an unneccesary behaviour remove it immediately, you say no once. Take her outside and leave her there if needs be for half an hour, if she starts again out again. Actions speak louder then words with dogs. but hang on - you find a chewed item, call her over and show her. There is no point to this at all. You should not engage the dog AT ALL when you clean up the pee or poo, find chewed items etc. There is no point calling the dog over it will not understand. You let your dog have free run, close up the doors or put in some gates so she cant get to things. If a dog chews things or toilets in the house its the owners fault for allowing it. If you really want to put her on a leash that is attached to your belt or pants, or crate train her while she is inside. I would start giving her two smaller meals a day as well, this gives the dog more regular bowel movements and there wont be as much food in her stomach overnight. Put the dog in a crate overnight, if it poos it will poo on itself. Also, stick with the nightime toilet but make sure she has gone poo as well. Heaps of praise if she does. Get some different toys adn cycle them to keep them exciting. During the day give her bones like chicken necks, lamb flaps etc to give her something to chew on. Dogs love to chew, its great for their teeth so if you dont provide they will find something to satisfy that urge.