Nekhbet

Dont tempt me ... must ... have ... self ... control ... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH I want another Malinois :D

get a good vet check. If the skins itchy then washing it can cause it to swell and crack letting in bacteria etc

A dog that isnt doing much shouldnt be on Power formula unless you want a hypo or fat animal. You get a formula thats made for a medium breed adult dog of average energy. Better a little skinny then too fat.

dont feed the dog at all that day and very little the night before, doubt she'll bury it then

Parvac is only for Parvo. Canvac BB is ONLY for the Bordatella component (bacterial) of Kennel Cough. Completely useless in my books either of these, and because they have not been administered by a vet you CANT claim your dog is vaccinated or produce a certificate. Dont see the point your dog isnt completely covered.

I too agree that its not quality over quantity. My dogs sleep inside and just like being close to us while we're in the house. Dogs dont need to have direct contact (like game, pats etc) to be spending time with you. Mine are happy to just be near me and are more peaceful like that ... we went away tuesday and came back wednesday, they nearly ripped the door down to just come in and sit near us last night. Dogs need a pack, especially single dog families

weetbix isnt dog food. Never will be. I seem to find a correlation of people who feed human meals to dog with anthropomorphised animals, and hence problems with training.

From sounds of it this dog needs a decent diet (weet-bix etf?!) and an owner who will treat it like a real dog, not baby it because of where it came from. Dog is a dog. It responds to the pack its surrounded by, she needs to look at herself and her methods 1st

Kennel "cough" can be caused by several different viruses or bacteria. The C5 contains the Bordatella and the canine Parainfluenza. There are other viruses that cause the coughing but you cant be sure that if you have a dog that catches it soon after (3-5 days after the vaccine you could say it WAS from the vaccine) didnt pick up another form of it. Vets can also misdiagnose and provide the wrong medication, OR two separate cough infections can set in at once (hence some cases 'lingering') If the dog has a reasonable immune response to a bacteria/virus then the next time it sees that strain it should have a shorter and milder illness, if anything at all. If it really hits the animal you can assume the vaccine didnt cover that strain or the animals immune response was not sufficient for some reason.

they usually say roast because charcoal roasted chickens have the fat drip off - less fat in the meat so less upset. If you boil chicken get thigh/breast meat no skin and boil it with a little salt in the water. You can let the dog drink the stock too thats left over.

its a rare dog that refuses chicken and rice. Give her that for about a week to settle the stomach, even a little natural unflavoured yoghurt (and only a little) can help as well. Give small meals twice a day and if she doesnt eat for a day or two dont panic, dogs can go quite a while without food (unlike cats who shouldnt go without food mroe then a day - day 1/2) but make sure she is drinking water. Just offer her that, dont try and keep tempting her with everything or you can upset her stomach further.

always give food changes at least a week between, especially in pups. The difference in quality between supermarket brands and something like Advance is quite large so his system is having trouble. If the blood is bright red then he has an irritation in the lower part of the digestive system. If its black and thickened go to the vet IMMEDIATELY. I would get a vet check anyway incase its an infection, but find a good brand and stick to it. If you have a larger breed buy in bulk and make a purchase before you see you are running out. I wouldnt feed a puppy anything less then Advance, especially large and giant breeds (Then things like Royal Canin, Eagle Pack and Nutrience are the thing)

the only thing I worry about is the position and the fact its growing. If its growing then for safety's sake you would want to remove and take a respectable margin around it. The thing with lumps is that we see the outside, but not how its growing under the skin and surrounding tissue. If its just a cyst that moves with the skin then it wouldnt be a worry, but a lump that isnt too mobile and growing will be excised and then tested to see how far its spread.

an aspirate can give you an indication of what type but it wont tell you if its spread into surrounding tissues or eslewhere. Because of the positioning of the lump it will have to be removed anyway so they kill two birds with one stone and remove then lab. If you are worried about the dog have a pre-anaesthetic blood test done but it would be safer to get the lump removed and then tested rather then a fine needle. Some types require a larger sample then fine needle aspirate as well to be properly diagnosed.

You are feeding them a really good, premium food with a balanced vitamin/mineral content. Why go changing what works already, I would be adding raw meaty bones to the diet to keep the teeth clean and something to keep the dogs occupied

throwback or that one in a million. Sometimes they turn out bigger, sometimes smaller. Genetics works in mysterious ways hehehe

for sharpened collars - its a hell of a lot easier to bang some nails into a leather collar to point inward. Seen that before and its horrific. Prongs should be under trainer instruction ONLY. I would NEVER have them sold through stores, only through dog clubs and government registered and accredited trainers. Actually check chains should be the same but hey I can dream. The abuse I have seen with correction chains and halters give me a prong for a lunging dog any day.

Training with a correction chain and training with a head halter include different methods. Chains mean you give a correction - effectively and short, sharp - but if you did that with a head halter you would injure the dog. Halters require a different overall method. When you join a club you should be looking at their methods and principles. An instructor who has 15 dogs to teach cannot keep running to you through the class because you have to do things differently to everyone else its not fair. Frankly for a lunging GSD he needs to learn to listen to you and action-consequence. You dont need a lot of strength with check chains if you use them properly so dont be intimidated by your own dog due to your stature. Size of the owner compared to size of the dog doesnt count, its your attitude that results in respect from the dog not you muscling your way with equiptment.

what diet is your dog on? If the diet is not good enough or passes through too quickly then she will turn around and it eat, she wont be getting enough vitamins and minerals. Also check your dogs digestive system is working properly, she may need some supplements to help her digest her food.

You have a working animal and its working - it wants to play. Exercise comes in two forms - physical and mental. No good taking the dog for a big walk kelpies were bred to work all day and still have energy left over. You need to start doing obedience, agility, herding, flyball, trick training etc to keep her brain active. If you are near Geelong then Bellarine Dog Activities Group can give you a hand with training. Kelpies will gravitate towards you more, they want to be told what to do and work with you. Prey training a really high drive dog without suppression training can be a bit full on if you're not used to it, so maybe look into clicker training using the toy as the jackpot reward at the end of exercise so you dont completely drive hte dog into a frenzy.

go to the vet and make sure its not stuck or they may have something to give her. I wouldnt leave it especially in a young dog

remember you cannot buy prong collars from overseas unless you have an import licence for them. I need to make another order from FDT I think Guy is missing my orders

He may not have had the intent to directly kill and eat. A flapping fluffy bird is really fun for a dog and he will play with it (being his size) he kills it. Then he will move onto the next one because that one is flapping about and making heaps of noise as well. Its prey drive. Make a secure chicken run because the dog has learned playign with chickens is fun, maybe even put up some shade cloth so he cant stare into the cage. If you have a dog like my mastiff, he has the catch and kill intent with birds. His prey drive is high and he has the intention to chase, kill and eat. He's great with kids and doesnt chase anything in the street, just dont show him a bunny or budgie

your puppy should be receiving 3 small meals a day, I wouldnt allow free feeding (especially if you're not home) becuase it will be a constant eat - poop cycle. Plus the dog will learn discipline about meal times. Leave water out 24 hours a day but not food. Dont feed too late in the day. Its like us, we eat late and all that energy keeps you awake, and pups having small tummies and bladders will be up needing to go toilet if you feed late too and you will find toilet training harder. Westies should be on a good quality dry food, I wouldnt bother with puppy can food but give a chicken neck or wing (fresh only but stored properly like human food) as a meal. I would go Royal Canin/Eagle pack or something with no artificial additives and says "Complete" which means it contains all the minerals necessary for your dog.

most police dogs are entire adult males with high drive. When they go out to work they are hyped up, and your dog would be going off barking and carryingn on exciting them even more. They are trained to get excited and work under a high stress load, so not knowing how your dog would react with the police dog about they are doing the right thing.